Jointer Motor

[Dan Lee]

The 3 HP motor on my 3 month old 10" General Int'l jointer started cutting off after about 5-10 seconds. The tech sent out by the place I bought it from said the motor was going out ... it was drawing like 60 amps for the few seconds it was on.

Anyway I was given the choice of a new motor or having the existing one rebuilt locally by a good motor shop. Being this is some asian made motor I opted for a rebuild and the warranty stays uneffected.

I figured a good rebuild job I would probably end up with a better motor. Sound like a good choice?
Dan

[Bruce Wrenn]

First, I don't think tech. has a full deck of cards. It sounds like the start switch is hanging. Current draw at start up is large compared to running. Excess current is causing thermal overload to kick out. Motor shop should catch this immediately.

[Dan Lee]

First, I don't think tech. has a full deck of cards. It sounds like the start switch is hanging. Current draw at start up is large compared to running. Excess current is causing thermal overload to kick out. Motor shop should catch this immediately.

OK I'll buy that do you think a rebuild is the better option than a new one considering this is a no name motor mfgr?

[Mike Henderson]

You don't say if the motor is rotating in those 5-10 seconds before it cuts off. If so, it's not the start switch. If not, the start switch could be the problem. You can test it by disconnecting the load (the belt), giving it a spin (in either direction) and turning the power on while it's still spinning at a decent rate. If it's the start switch, the motor will pick up speed and run to full speed.

If the motor runs after you give it a spin, it could also be a failed starting cap, which is a fairly common failure.

Mike

[Chip Lindley]

Why not just go for a *FRESH* motor? Yours has suffered at least a little from the high-amp condition when it fails after a few seconds. It is very uncommon, but (as you find out) not unheard-of, for a new motor to fail. But, Chinese quality control IS what it IS!

Your dealer may be able to give you a new motor immediately. Rebuilding may keep your motor tied up in the shop for days. But, the choice is up to you! IF a replacement voids any further motor warranty, shopping for a used *Made in USA* Baldor or Leeson *stand-by* motor of at least 1-1/2hp may be wise in that case.

[Curt Harms]

<snip>
I figured a good rebuild job I would probably end up with a better motor. Sound like a good choice?
Dan

He seemed pretty knowledgeable about machinery and maintained that Asian motors weren't bad....if they'd finish building them. He took the position that if you took your new Asian motor apart and had a motor shop dip the windings in varnish (or whatever) and bake them then reassemble, you might well have a long lived motor. As I remember, the lack of a final varnish coat allowed the wire in the windings to vibrate, wear through the existing varnish and short out. The final varnish application reduced the liklihood of that happening. I have no first hand experience but it sounds reasonable.

Worth what you paid for it

Curt