10" Ripping Blade Thoughts

[Jim Eller]

I am going to be ripping some 8/4+ ash shortly and do not really have a specific blade for that task. I will also be jointing the edge for glue-up.

I will not be ripping a lot at this time but take that out of the equation. I will be using it again in the future so I am looking for quality.

I will need a 10" to use on my 3 HP PM66.

Experiences and suggestions??

Jim

[Kent E. Matthew]

Mr. Eller if you don't mind I would like to "piggy back" on your OP. If have a bunch of 3" x 5" red oak I need to process. I have one of the hybrid Delta saws so a really good rip blade is needed.

[mreza Salav]

I am very happy with Freud rip blades (the industrial model); the glue-line rip models are also fantastic.

[Steve Griffin]

Hi Jim and Kent,
I suppose there is something expensive and really special you can use, but my shop uses 24 tooth thin kerf Freud Rip blades. I have two and the have each been used for many years and sharpened many times. They still work as well as day one. They run about $40.

Especially for Kent who has less horsepower, thin kerf will cut much faster.

-Steve

[Chris Holder]

If you will be using this blade for independent operation (i.e. are using this saw only for ripping or willing to change out the rip blade when doing crosscuts) the best option is to buy a good quality 24-30 tooth rip blade. These will provide better chip clearance and keep the blade cooler, sharper, producing a better cut. Forrest Woodworker II 30T is a good option here. If you want a good combination blade, I've heard great things about the new Freud Fusion 40T. I have a 40T Forrest Woodworker II combo blade and it has worked great for 2 years for me. My .02

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Jim, I use a 24T rip blade that I purchased through an industrial saw supplier.

I normally buy my blades from them, they are excellent quality and the price is reasonable.

They also make custom cutters, bits and blades, and of course repair and sharpen all of the preceeding.

I just picked up my 80T TCG melamine blade, $14.50 for sharpening.

In addition to great products they also have outstanding technical help.

You might consider looking at those sort of suppliers in your area.

Regards, Rod.

[Mark Grotenhuis]

I just recently bought the freud 24 tooth non-thin kerf blade. With 3hp I didn't see the need for thin kerf. It cuts like a champ, it has much more carbide on it than any other blade I own. Should last a long time.

[Tom Hargrove]

I think we had another discussion on this subject in the last few days - you may want to review that.

With 3hp, I don't think you will need a thin kerf blade. Heavier blades tend to run quieter, smoother and cooler. I think any dedicated rip blade from a major manufacturer will serve you well. At the same time, I would avoid blades purchased from a big box retailer, even if it comes from a manufacturer with good reputation. DAMHIKT. I have had good luck with Freud blades in many applications when kept clean and sharp, and have found them to be somewhat cheaper than other brands. You will see that many who visit this forum favor other brands as well.

[Lee Schierer]

I also recommend the Freud 24 tooth rip blades. I have the TK version as my saw has 1-1/2 Hp power, but it cuts extremly well. With a properly aligned saw, you may not need to do any jointing after the rip cut.

[Chris Padilla]

Freud, CMT, Forrest, Tenyru all make excellent ripping blades. 24-30 teeth is typically what you'll find.

For ripping, the feed rate is pretty important. You'll probably want to go faster than you think you should. Try it...you might be surprise at the cut quality and lack of burning....

[Rod Sheridan]

Freud, CMT, Forrest, Tenyru all make excellent ripping blades. 24-30 teeth is typically what you'll find.

For ripping, the feed rate is pretty important. You'll probably want to go faster than you think you should. Try it...you might be surprise at the cut quality and lack of burning....

Chris is spot on with respect to proper feed rates for blades.

Typical chip thickness ranges for ripping softwood are in the 0.008 to 0.038" range.

Hardwood values are in the 0.002 to 0.006" range.

Using mid values ( .0022" for softwood and 0.004" for hardwood) with a 24 tooth blade at 4,500 RPM yields 198 feet per minute for softwood and 36 feet per minute for hardwood.

That's why when ripping pine, I don't think it's possible to push the wood too fast by hand, and my power feeder has a top speed of only 37 FPM.

With a good rip blade, you have to feed the wood pretty fast for best results.........Rod.

[Bill White]

has worked well for me. Thin kerf, and has handled all I've thrown at it. Most recent cuts were on 2 1/2" red oak.
Bill

[Charles McCracken]

I am going to be ripping some 8/4+ ash shortly and do not really have a specific blade for that task. I will also be jointing the edge for glue-up.

I will not be ripping a lot at this time but take that out of the equation. I will be using it again in the future so I am looking for quality.

I will need a 10" to use on my 3 HP PM66.

Experiences and suggestions??

Jim

For heavy ripping of thick stock like that you will want 24T or less. How about this LM71M010?:

http://www.freudtools.com/images/product/lm71moriginal.jpg

[Jerome Hanby]

Ditto on the Freud glue line rip blades.

[Chris Padilla]

Let me also mention that ripping thick stock on a table saw is kind of scary!!

Be sure your fence and blade are dead parallel to the miter slots.

Be sure the blade is clean and sharp (new) as possible.

Be sure to use a splitter or riving knife if possible.

But the number one thing I'd recommend for ripping thick stock is a bandsaw. Bandsaws do not have the same kickback issues that table saws do (but they can still hurt you, too, as can anything with sharp blades on it can).

[scott spencer]

Your saw has enough power to spin just about any decent rip blade on the market. You could probably rip fairly thick material with up to a 40T blade if you really want a clean cut. The higher the tooth count, the cleaner the cut, but there's also more chance for burning to occur with the higher tooth counts. The standard 24T FTG rippers from Freud, Infinity, Amana, CMT, Ridge Carbide, Tenryu, etc., should all do fairly well, and leave a glue ready, but predictably slightly scored edge, and poor crosscuts. The Forrest WWII 30T ATB will rip nicely to close to 3", and even leaves a fairly respectable crosscut.

[Ronald Kellison]

I am going to be ripping some 8/4+ ash shortly and do not really have a specific blade for that task. I will also be jointing the edge for glue-up.

I will not be ripping a lot at this time but take that out of the equation. I will be using it again in the future so I am looking for quality.

I will need a 10" to use on my 3 HP PM66.

Experiences and suggestions??

Jim

I have been using a Systematic 24-tooth ripping blade for many years. It's been sharpened twice and it still looks to have enough carbide to take another 3 or 4 sharpenings. I should live so long!:)

You don't mention if you have a jointer. If you do, you should consider some of the mid-priced ($50) blades. The cut won't be super smooth but you can easily clean it up quickly on a jointer. Freud, Amana, possibly Oldham make blades in this price range. If you want a really smooth cut go with Forrest, Ridge Carbide, Dimar, Infinity or the industrial versions made by Freud. Expect to pay between $75-$125.

Ron

[Jim Eller]

Some good info and thoughts here.

Chris - I didn't even think of the bandsaw. My only concern with that is the small table and the table height make it a little uncomfortable.

Ronald - I will be jointing them for glue-up if necessary.

Jim

[Chris Padilla]

Some good info and thoughts here.

Chris - I didn't even think of the bandsaw. My only concern with that is the small table and the table height make it a little uncomfortable.


Support rollers or tables might be in store for you. If you plan to joint the boards anyway, you can then deal with the rougher cut a bandsaw will leave.

[John Thompson]

The Carbide dot com folks have 24 T FS on sale at the moment for $49.95 on a normally priced $90 blade. I personally have two Amana 20 T Euro rips for over 2" and two CMT 24 T for under 2". All are good blades along with the Freud 18 T Charles recommended if you are going to take it to the jointer anyway.

Sarge..

[glenn bradley]

I am going to be ripping some 8/4+ ash shortly and do not really have a specific blade for that task. I will also be jointing the edge for glue-up.

I will not be ripping a lot at this time but take that out of the equation. I will be using it again in the future so I am looking for quality.

I will need a 10" to use on my 3 HP PM66.

Experiences and suggestions??

Jim

Freud and Lietz have both served me well. Full kerf for Jim.


Mr. Eller if you don't mind I would like to "piggy back" on your OP. If have a bunch of 3" x 5" red oak I need to process. I have one of the hybrid Delta saws so a really good rip blade is needed.

and thin kerf for Kent. I use TK on my 1.75HP hybrid on a dedicated 110v circuit and it is very satisfactory.

[Sam Blanchard]

Jim: I've had fantastic results with the Freud glue line rip, 1/8" kerf - including 8/4 maple. Really nice cuts - I didn't even go back to the jointer B4 glue-up. My .02

[Peter Quinn]

Like Sarge I use an Amana Euro rip blade (20T) for thick stock, I spin it on a PM66. It is the fastest feed rate, least kick back and cleanest cut of any I have tried, and i have tried a few. I also have a Freud glue line rip blade that is a close second but not as effective at breaking down thick stock as the Amana.

For the gentleman with a contractor saw a thin kerf may be in order for thick stock, for the cabinet saw I spin full kerf almost exclusively. I have one thin kerf for putting grooves for weather stripping in jambs, thats it.

If ripping on the TS is intimidating a few quick plywood scraps can form infeed and outfeed support that combined with a good 3T blade can make short work of 8/4. It is essentially a 2" resaw, not much stress for most BS's. You can even straight line rough edges with a miter slot sled or rip free hand if you have no fence.

[Myk Rian]

Normally I would use the Freud glue line rip, but you're sawing 2" stock. The GLR is rated up to 1".

[Mike Robbins]

Up through 8/4 the Forrest WWII 30T will work just fine. I pretty much just leave mine in the saw (Ridgid 3660) unless I'm cutting ply. Crosscuts are more than acceptable with that blade as well. Imagine it would be even better in a cabinet saw. Also have a Freud 24T that got on sale that I rarely use.