Tenon jig - what's good/bad about yours?

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

Looking to get a tenoning jig, and I'd like to hear feedback about what you do or don't like about yours......

[Tim Malyszko]

I have the Delta 34-183 jig and am pretty happy with it.


Here is what I like:

Heft - the jig is very heavy and feels very stable.
No Slop in T-slot
Very accurate cuts once set up properly, making repeatability easy.
The micro adjusment works pretty well if you don't have to make an adjustment more than say 1/16" in either direction.
There are however some dislikes:

The stops are a pain to set up and make fine adjustments to them.
I check it for squareness before each use on the table because I've found it get out of square as I move it from the shelf to the table and back.
I have to be careful when tightening down the adjustments as I sometimes overtighten and take it out of sqare.
Would I buy it again... Definately a yes. Once I get it set up and square, I can make cut-after-cut with great repeatability. In addition, I really like the heft compared to the other ones on the market.

[Joe Scharle]

Use the router....Luke.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/194/RT_Tenon_Jig_1_.jpg

[Lee Schierer]

I also have the Delta 34-183 tenon jig and really like it. I use it all the time. Unlike the previosu post, I have not had to reset the adjustments for square once tehy were accurately set. I recently acquired a digital angle indicator and according to it my jig was off a bit from my eye ball and plastic triangle setting by a few tenths of a degree. In no reads zero. The micro adjsutment screw is great. I can shave a few thousnandths off a tenon face if needed.

What I didn't like were the plastic locking handles for the various adjustments. I broke one shortly after I received mine. I replaced all the plastic handles with cast metal ones of the same type and have hand no problems since.

I also don't care for the metric adjusting screw for the clamping bar.

Would I buy another one, most definitely. Although the first jig I recieved from my supplier was not flat and wobbled on the table. They promptly sent a replacement but the cross slide bar was out of square and couldn be tighened to the jig when in the table slot so I swapped out the best parts from each to get a truly nice fit and a jig that was flat and sent the reassembled bad one back to them with all the bad parts tagged.

[Dewey Torres]

I have this Griz (http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H7583-Tenoning-Jig/dp/B000AJ7V1M/ref=tag_stp_st_edpp_url):
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=100976&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1226642823
Likes: Solid tool heavy and reliable, cost is the cheapest of all jigs in it's class, dealing with Griz is a pleasure, customer service is great.

Dislikes: Cant trust the measurements on it. It has fine adjustment but you have to perform test cuts to be sure. (could be said for most all of them)

[Rod Sheridan]

I also have a Delta tenon jig which I have stopped using for safety reasons.

I couldn't come up with a blade guard that worked with it, so I stopped cutting tenons on the table saw.

I now use a shaper with a tenon jig and two cutters, cuts both sides simultaneously, and the tenon is exactly the same width every time, regardless of material thickness.

Oh, and it has a guard of course...........Regards, Rod.

[Charles Lent]

I have the Delta tenon jig, but stopped using it several years ago. I bought a Leigh FMT jig and now cut perfect mortices and matching tenons with it and the Delta tenon jig is collecting dust. Cutting them with a router is much safer, and they fit perfectly every time. The FMT is expensive, but worth every penny if you make a lot of mortice/tenon joints.

Charley

[Myk Rian]

I have a Delta jig. Even though I haven't noticed it going out of square, I still check it before use, just like everything else. I like the weight of it. Well built.

[Tim Malyszko]

What I didn't like were the plastic locking handles for the various adjustments. I broke one shortly after I received mine. I replaced all the plastic handles with cast metal ones of the same type and have hand no problems since

That is probably one reason I have issues with it getting knocked out of square when moving it around. one of the plastic handles broke, making it hard to tighten things down all the way.

[Larry Edgerton]

I also have a Delta tenon jig which I have stopped using for safety reasons.

I couldn't come up with a blade guard that worked with it, so I stopped cutting tenons on the table saw.

I now use a shaper with a tenon jig and two cutters, cuts both sides simultaneously, and the tenon is exactly the same width every time, regardless of material thickness.

Oh, and it has a guard of course...........Regards, Rod.

Ditto. I have one on the shelf in the tool room, never felt comfortable with it. I use the shaper or for larger projects the carriage on the table saw. If you didn't have a big shaper or a carriage saw it could be the ticket if you didn't want to cut by hand.

[Warren Clemans]

I use the Delta cast iron beast and like it well enough. Micro-adjusting is really precise. I've never really been too concerned about the safety of it. I get it all set up and then make sure I have the jig between me and the blade when I'm making cuts. The handles keep my hands way clear of the blade. I'd certainly like better dust control, but that's generally true of the table saw since I haven't yet invested in over-the-blade dust collection.

[Charles Saunders]

I have the inexpensive Delta jig also. The main side-to-side adjustment lock handle broke (plastic) and I replaced it with a metal knob. Then bought Leigh FMT and I don't use it much anymore. Nice thing about it is that it's very adjustable and if you drill and tap some additional holes in the face plate you can hold some difficult workpieces.

[Roger Warford]

John, would you excuse me if I divert the thread slightly off topic? I'm wondering what the relative pro's and con's are for using a dado blade to make tenons with the board flat on the table vs. using a tenoning jig? I've been toying with the idea of buying a tenoning jig (my homemade jig wasn't very square!:o). Avoiding the need to set up a dado would certainly be one benefit of a jig. Are there others?

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

John, would you excuse me if I divert the thread slightly off topic? I'm wondering what the relative pro's and con's are for using a dado blade to make tenons with the board flat on the table vs. using a tenoning jig? I've been toying with the idea of buying a tenoning jig (my homemade jig wasn't very square!:o). Avoiding the need to set up a dado would certainly be one benefit of a jig. Are there others?

Not at all. and since you bring up the topic of alternatives....what about cutting tenons on a bandsaw instead? anyone use that as their "preferred method"?

[Brent Leonard]

I have the woodcraft model. The Grizzly is EXACTLY the same as the woodcraft, only cheaper.

Mine came coated in heavy grease. I disassembled the entire jig, down to each and every little screw. Using aerosol, disk brake cleaner, I had to clean every part of the jig. What a P-I-T-A!!

As mentioned with the delta jig, Woodcraft model is the same,check for square on every set up for use. As was mentioned on the Grizzly, woodcraft is the same, the scale is worthless, use a test piece/cut.

All in all, just as good as the others I suppose. Grizzly is the best deal, IMO. One of the magazines did a test. All were good and the author stated the "best" was based on personal prefrence. Best rated was one of the Delta models (the slightly more expensive of their two models).

[Lee Schierer]

John, would you excuse me if I divert the thread slightly off topic? I'm wondering what the relative pro's and con's are for using a dado blade to make tenons with the board flat on the table vs. using a tenoning jig? I've been toying with the idea of buying a tenoning jig (my homemade jig wasn't very square!:o). Avoiding the need to set up a dado would certainly be one benefit of a jig. Are there others?

On a band saw you may or may not get a straight cut and there will be significant tooth marks on the sides of the tenon. The same may be true of the dado blade. Chippers generally don't cut exactly the same depth as the two out side blades. You may have to make multiple passes to get the length of tenon you want with a dado blade. These uneven areas will weaken the glue joint slightly. With the tenon cutter you get a smooth surface the full length of the tenon. The face cut will be smoother too as most 60 tooth cross cut blades cut cleaner than dado side cutters.

[Keith Christopher]

I have a tenoning jig I bought, but I don't use it, I still use the one I built a long time ago. even with the lil screw tip poking through and jabbing me in the hand sometimes.

But if it's only a couple I will use my pull saw and chisels to square them up.

If I did alot...I'd just get a domino. :)

[Don Bullock]

I have this Griz (http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H7583-Tenoning-Jig/dp/B000AJ7V1M/ref=tag_stp_st_edpp_url):
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=100976&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1226642823
Likes: Solid tool heavy and reliable, cost is the cheapest of all jigs in it's class, dealing with Griz is a pleasure, customer service is great.

Dislikes: Cant trust the measurements on it. It has fine adjustment but you have to perform test cuts to be sure. (could be said for most all of them)

I have the Griz as well. It's the just about same jig sold under many different brands. Grizzly's price when I bought mine beat all the sales prices of the others. It is a very solid jig and works well on my SawStop.

[lowell holmes]

I have the Delta jig, but I seldom use it. I cut my tenons on the bandsaw or by hand, what ever is quicker. If the tenon needs adjustment, the LN 60R hand lane takes care if it. I do cut the shoulders of the tenon on the table saw and then the theeks on the bandsaw. It's much quicker for me.

[glenn bradley]

I have the Jet/Powermatic that Rockler sells (its Rockler blue but comes with a Jet manual). For the $50 I paid on sale I like just about everything. The only things that bug me are the scale and pointer are virtually useless (this was fixed easily with a decent tape and pointer addition) and the miter bar has no adjustment for width (metal HVAC tape to the rescue).

The jig is my quickest solution for bridal joints or long tenons as your TS can take deep cuts in one pass and still leave a very clean face. For other tenons I use the router and for floating tenons I use the Mortise Pal. It is nice to have the TS jig although I use it seldom.

[Laurie Brown]

I have this Griz (http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H7583-Tenoning-Jig/dp/B000AJ7V1M/ref=tag_stp_st_edpp_url):
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=100976&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1226642823
Likes: Solid tool heavy and reliable, cost is the cheapest of all jigs in it's class, dealing with Griz is a pleasure, customer service is great.

Dislikes: Cant trust the measurements on it. It has fine adjustment but you have to perform test cuts to be sure. (could be said for most all of them)

I just bought one of those myself from Amazon. It looked just like the Delta, for half the price, and had a ton of positive reviews. It just arrived today, but I won't be able to do much with it until warm weather returns someday, as there's no heat in my shop. I'd be interested in knowing if there's any tricks or tips I need to know for when I unpack it and assemble it?

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

Thanks for the info everyone! I've been eyeing up that same Grizz jig, and I think I might take the boys on a little road trip to Woodcraft to poke around and pick up a few things....."that one just might follow me home"! :)

[Bruce Wrenn]

Here, Lowes is getting rid of the Delta 34-184 for $69.30. Lowes item # 237663. They just dropped to this price yesterday. I already have a 34-183, but due to large purchase and a 10% off coupon, my 34-184 was better than FREE. The difference between original price of goods and 10% off was over $80. Still have a difference of $20+/-, to spend how I want.

[Laurie Brown]

No Lowes sales here, so I gave up waiting for one and decided to get the Grizzly.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

What do they say about good things and waiting?

I was at Woodcraft and fully expected to pick up their tenon jig. It didn't really "call" to me though - fit/finish etc - and without having seen too many others, I decided to wait. Then I planned on picking up the Grizz jig from Amazon this morning, based on the reviews I've seen here at SMC and elsewhere. I even had it in my shopping cart - and just randomly, I checked Lowes to see what they had the Delta tenon jig 34-184 priced at (it's previously been $120 or $100). Low and behold, one local Lowes had it for $99, but another one had it on 'yellow tag' for $69! I can't remember the last time I rushed to get in the car and go to Lowes, but I did and they had 2 left.

It's all covered in that grease/oil crap, so I need to spend some time cleaning it. But I hope to do that tonight. I hope I'll be pleased with it.

BTW - thanks for the feedback/opinions everone!

[Dar Lounsbury]

I have a Delta that came with one of the used Unisaws I have had. It works very well for me but I cannot compare its quality to any others.

I try to buy cabinet shops as they are failing and re-sell the equipment after a bit of rehab. Unless the stuff is toasted, it is a good source of used tools. The economy in this area is really killing the small shops. New construction, other than commercial, does not exist here. Developed land, ready to build, is everywhere but it is just sitting. Sad.

Dar

[Stephen Edwards]

I have the Grizzly. No complaints. I have mine set up for a specific task. However, it wouldn't be difficult to set it up for something else. I don't use the scales. Being a bit thick headed it took me a little while to get the "feel" of it. Once that was done, I think it's a good tool and does what I expect of it. I don't worry about safety issues with it as some others have expressed. Hands are in the clear.

[Jamie Buxton]

I had a Delta tenon jig, which I rarely used. I eventually gave it away. The thing was fussy to set up, and I never did really see any safety advantage to it.

I always start tenons by cutting the shoulders on the table saw.

If I'm making short-ish tenons -- say less than 1" long -- I use the table saw to make the cheek cuts. I have an auxiliary tall fence which I use for several operations, and I use it for this. I just run the workpiece through the saw with it sticking straight up in the air. With the shoulders already cut, it doesn't matter if the workpiece rocks forward or backward a bit. I have a micro-adjuster on the fence, and that allows me to easily make tenons which exactly fit the mortise. My hands are five inches or more above the blade, and are pushing in directions which do not carry into the blade. It seems as safe to me as any other operation I do on the table saw.

If I'm making taller tenons -- like 3"-tall bridle joints -- I use the bandsaw for the cheek cuts. I have a carbide blade on it which produces a completely gluable cut. Compared to the table saw, the bandsaw needs a little more fussing to get it exactly, so I tend to use it only when I really need to.

[Jerry Beltramo]

Why even think about buying a tenon jig. I have used loose tenons for years, which is a good way to use up my scrape lumber. Seems to be just as strong and much easier to line up the mortises and no tenon jig set up.

[Stephen Edwards]

Why even think about buying a tenon jig. I have used loose tenons for years, which is a good way to use up my scrape lumber. Seems to be just as strong and much easier to line up the mortises and no tenon jig set up.

Here's a great reason for considering a tenon jig. In fact, it can very useful for the loose tenons that you mention.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7147496248521680103&ei=nmmGSa_TAYSQqAKvwNjrCg&q=motorized+router+lift&hl=en

The difference is that with John Nixon's set up you use the tenon jig for making the mortise, not the tenon! It's brilliant if you ask me. My two cents worth.

[Mark Unterberg]

I just purchased the Grizzly tenoning jig. A few parts were defective but Grizzly is sending replacements asap...good customer service, stuff happens, especially during shipping.
Here's my problem: although they have updated the user manual and have instructions for re-assembling the jig for left tilt, it isn't clear to me and I can't find any images of this setup. From the manual it looks like the only change is that you move the guide bar for the miter slot over so that the jig is closer to the blade. This doesn't seem to make sense. On an angled cut don't you want the blade to cut through away from the jig as opposed to towards it? If anyone has a picture of the left tilt setup I would appreciate it. I really feel stupid because I do this stuff for a living!

[C Scott McDonald]

Don't forget the General Tenoning Jig. I have one and it is a tank and holds everything in place perfectly. It is pretty much the same as the grizzly.

[Neal Clayton]

John, would you excuse me if I divert the thread slightly off topic? I'm wondering what the relative pro's and con's are for using a dado blade to make tenons with the board flat on the table vs. using a tenoning jig? I've been toying with the idea of buying a tenoning jig (my homemade jig wasn't very square!:o). Avoiding the need to set up a dado would certainly be one benefit of a jig. Are there others?

the tenon jig doesn't remove the necessity to cut with a dado.

the blade has to be flat on the top to give you a flat shoulder.