Help getting started (blanket chest)....

[Warren White]

Good afternoon all!
I need some help getting started (and will need help later, I am sure).

My daughter has been after me to build a blanket chest for more years than I dare to admit. I am ready to get ready to get started (I wonder why it has taken me so long???).

I am considering making the blanket chest say, 16" deep, 48" long, and 20" high. If I am calculating correctly, and assuming that I use something other than cherry wood only for the bottom, I estimate that it would take roughly 22 board feet of cherry. Adding other touches like a shelf in the inside add another board foot or so. How much should I purchase to allow for normal loss during the build process and other misfortunes (such as needing to cut the ends off boards)?

Secondly, and just as important, where do you recommend I purchase the cherry? I would be happy to have it shipped. I am interested in good experiences you might have had, as well as places you would avoid if you had it to do all over again.

I live in the San Francisco bay area, and would be interested in any experiences you might have had with local suppliers as well. I went to McBeath's and didn't see any cherry that really caught my eye.

Thanks for your advice in my pre-planning stage. I am getting closer to getting closer to getting started (at least that is what I am telling my daughter).

Warren

[Cecil Arnold]

Actually I came up with 23+ board feet, but you didn't say if you are buying S4S, S2S, rough F&S or what. If you go to a good hardwood supplier you may be able walk through and hand pick S4S in lenghts that will enable you to minimize waste in which case I would still give myself (in your case) about 20% over (one 4' board in the width you use for the 48" side)--that is about my mistake level. If you're dealing in S2S or rough you will need, in my opinion, at least 25% or better. However, you will get a better product with rough since you will be able to cut and mill all your boards to uniform size which you will not get in picking S4S. Quit thinking about it and do it, that's the fun part. I know some of the wiser heads here will pitch in with more and better advice than one old wood butcher. Good luck on your project.:)

[Jim Becker]

I agree with Ceil, for cherry, you typically want and extra 25% or so for waste; a littel more if you are not able to pick your own boards as with ordering via the Internet or phone. The extra is to account for unusable material as well as for color/grain matching. That's easiest to do if you can buy locally, either skim planed or rough. If you also plan using techniques you are less experienced at, you should also budget for some inexpensive "practice" stock such as poplar or pine to do prototypes of your joinery, etc.

A blanket chest is a great project that you'll enjoy doing and your daughter will undoubtedly love and cherish!

[Bob Powers]

Just a thought. After you have built the blanket chest, check the archives for the gentleman whose wife won't use her blanket chest because it smells like varnish after several years. Whatever you use on the exterior, use shellac on the interior. I have built several blanket chests, and they all smell nice! There are those who say that since the alcohol in shellac evaporates very quickly, there is no odor after a short period of time. I'm not sure what the residual odor in ours is, but it's very pleasant.

[Carl Eyman]

See if you have a Paxton's around you. Give them your cutting list. They can deliver you boards of the specific sizes you specify. It reduces waste to a minimum (not necessarily cost).

Are you familiar with the Woodsmith mag? They give you a cutting list that is very precise. I submitted it to Paxtons for two walnut end tables I made. I never had less trouble in milling parts, nor had grain match so well. It may not be the cheapest way, but it sure works.

By the way, Woodsmith has a web site that lists their projects. They must have had a zillion blanket chests over the years. You might want to take a look there before proceeding.

Carl

[Manny Hernandez]

Warren,
Sounds like you've got the board feet worked out. I usually allow somewhere around 20% extra.
My experience with cherry, here in the Bay Area, has been a hit-n-miss affair. Last time I saw some decent cherry was at PALS in San Jose. This was some months ago. They had just recieved a shipment. I have a buddy who ordered from an outfit back east. He got better quality and it was somewhat cheaper, even with shipping. I'll get the specifics for you.
I'm also in Livermore. If you need some help, there's a small number of bay area woodworkers that will be getting together at my house on July 10th. I'll send you a private message with all the details.

Manny

[Bob_Hammond]

If you can afford it, I would reccommend getting even more. If you get half way through, and realize that you cut a big piece too short, you will be glad. You can buy pieces that match now. Later you might have a problem finding a piece that matches your others.

Bob
-A beginner speaking from experience

[Chris Padilla]

Warren,

Hopefully you can join us at Manny's place...stop by even for a 1/2 hour if that is all you have time for...it'll be worth it, I promise! :D

I've been to PALS in San Jose and while I only bought some 3/4" maple plywood from them and a few chunks of rough walnut, I was pretty happy with the prices. However, after working with the maple, I'm not terribly pleased. I've found a few pieces varying in thickness from the usual 23/32" all the way up to a 1/64" over 3/4"! :mad: This really messed up some carefully-cut dadoes I had made! Also, for A-1 grade, I've found some voids that so far, haven't messed me up but I know there is one out there waiting for me in just the wrong place! :(

The walnut was a nice piece. The other bad thing about PALS is that they are only open M-F. I would probably buy sheet good from them again...the maple plywood overall has been okay.

Global Woodsource in SJ is also another nice place. I don't recall too much cherry but they had a lot of really nice stuff. It is tough to get really nice cherry out here for some reason...go figure....

[Joseph N. Myers]

Warren,

You didn't mention what equipment you have to process the boards once you get the lumber. Assuming you purchase rough lumber, if you don't have a planer, you'll have to purchase the lumber S2S. If you don't have a joiner, you'll (might) have to get it ripped. Etc. If you don't have the above, you'll have to purchase processed lumber (more expensive and less choices).

And how do you plan on putting it together --- miter, finger jointed. etc. No matter what you decide, you'll need tools. And how about the top? Is it going to be flat, curved, etc. If other than flat, you'll need more wood. And what about allowing sap (white) wood in the final product (sap wood is not consider a default in Cherry and Walnut). If not (sap wood), you'll need additional wood.

If you don't have the right tools, you may want to consider cherry veneer plywood edged with cherry edge banding or solid cherry. Many if not most, entertainment centers, book cases, etc., are built with plywood. It not cheap, heck any plywood is not cheap anymore, but might be worth considering.

Sounds like Manny had a pretty good offer about the July 10th woodworker's get together --- they should have a good idea about local wood suppliers, good advice and maybe a beer or two.

Regards, Joe

[Warren White]

Good afternoon once again!
I really appreciate the replies thus far, and would like to clarify my initial post. I am sorry I didn't give enough information....

Cecil, Joseph: Just to show you my ignorance, I had to go look up S2S, S4S, (but I didn't figure out what F&S is....I assume that it is rough stock).

Certainly, the wood I buy will depend on my equipment. I have a DeWalt 735 planer, a Jet JJ6 jointer, and a Delta Unisaw. The short answer is that the planer is a marvelous tool, but I sometimes don't get the results I want with the jointer; not because of the tool, but because of my lack of experience. It also limits my jointing to 6" widths, so I will end up ripping stock that I have to joint/plane to that dimension.

I plan on using dovetail joinery (I have a Leigh jig) for joining the sides to the front and back. (My apologies to those of you who hand cut dovetails, but I have tried it and it makes me crazy...)

The top will probably be flat, although my daughter watched Norm build a sea chest with a curved top and gave me the eye (if you know what I mean).

Chris and Manny: I would love to join you folks! I will call.

Carl: Paxton's doesn't have a place around here. Thanks for the recommendation, however. I subscribe to Woodsmith, so I will go back and look. Thanks for that as well!

Bob Hammond: Good advice. My "green bin" is always fuller after a project.

Bob Powers: Thanks! I have wanted to try my had at shellac for quite some time. I will steer clear of varnish for the inside.



To the rest, I also offer my thanks for your consideration in responding. I always am encouraged by the response I get on the forum.

Warren

[Joseph N. Myers]

Warren,

You certainly have the equipment; most of us only dream of so much "good" stuff. For this project, you'll also need (usually) a biscuit joiner, plenty of clamps and some sanding equipment. Best a drum sander but usually a belt, hand and/or random orbital sander(s). And make sure you have good sand paper and one of those erasers (for sanding stuff, Klingspor's, 1-800-228-0000, www.woodworkingshop.com (http://www.woodworkingshop.com)).

As far as your joiner. All the lumber (should be) fairly flat so you shouldn't
need to join the top/bottom, planing should be fine. You would use the joiner for the edges and 6" is more than enough for that. The larger joiners are longer which really helps for longer boards which will not be an issue in your case.

I seem to remember Norm built a blanket chest with dove tail joints using the leigh jig. Can't think of the catalog that carries Norm's stuff or have the number you call for his TV stuff --- maybe you already have it or someone else can give you the info. This in addition to Woodsmith which has really good designs.

F&S, also known as FAS is the highest hardwood grade and stands for First And Second: must be at least 6 inches wide, 8 to 16 ft long and 83.3% clear on the worst face. The "First" side has no defects, the "Second" or "worst" side has some defects. After FAS, you have basically Select, No. 1, 2 and 3 Common. Select is 6' - 16', 4" or wider and 83.3% usable. No 1 Common is 4' - 16, 3" or wider and 66% usable.

You can save serious money by getting "more" of a "less" grade and cutting around the bad stuff. The differences depends on the wood but as an example, Steve Wall, 1-800-633-4062, www.walllumber.com (http://www.walllumber.com) lists walnut 1C at $1.85, Select at $3.85 and red oak 1C at $1.80, Select at $2.50.

So you found the definition of S2S. There is S1S, S1E, S2S, S2E, S1S1E, S1S2E, S2S1E and S4S --- fill in the blanks where S=side and E=edge. Actually the acronyms that are use in the different posts really keep me guessing --- I've only been a member for a couple of months. I've been keeping a list of them and will send you a PM (private message) listing them. (Note: check the upper right hand corner of your screen under Private Messages).

I'll be posting them, the acronyms, on the forum when I get a few more of them defined (I will be checking with some of the people that use them to find out what they mean and have a feeling that some of them are spelling errors).

As far as the amount of wood to "overbuy", I think your getting the hint from the other members that more is better. Actually if you could order the cherry "color/grain matched", you would be in great shape. In your case, the back and maybe one of the sides will not be showing all the time so some of it doesn't have to match.

If I were you, I'd log on to ebay and look for "lumber + cherry". Because your longest piece is only 4 feet, there will be some stuff you can use and/or just looking at to see what's available. I'm not suggesting that you buy any there, just getting ideas.

Regards and good luck, Joe

[Warren White]

Joe,
Thanks for the reply! I do have a biscuit joiner; you can never have enough clamps; I don't have a belt sander, but I do have a random orbit sander and BOSS Spindle Sander. As for the eraser, I will look into that; thanks for the suggestion.

I have a bit to learn about jointing; I purchased a piece of highly figured wood (I believe they called it a flitch?). It was a rectangle, approximately 4" X 20" X 6" and had a defect on one corner. I thought I would joint it down to the defect. I ran it through with the defect coming last....what I ended up with was a piece of wood that still had the defect but which was no longer a rectangle. Wasted a lot of very beautiful wood!!

I will look for the blanket chest on Norm's web site. Good suggestion.

Thanks a lot for the information on the acronyms; I have looked at your private message. I will message you back with a couple I can help with.

I will check on Wall Lumber; again, thanks.

I have no experience with ebay, but I will give it a look.

Again, thanks very much for taking the time to help. I really appreciate it.

Best to you,
Warren