Anyone have one of these?

[Jim Kountz]

Ok some of you may know how I feel about Harbor Freight tools, but sometimes I guess there is a place for the cheap crap. This is their chainsaw sharpener and I was wondering if anyone here has used this one and would care to voice an opinion on it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93213

Hey mods I posted this here simply because us turners use a chainsaw a little more than the flatwork guys but if you feel this belongs somewhere else I understand.

[Dave Ogren]

Jim,

My neighbor bought two (2) of them about 2 years ago. Returned them both. It was something about the chain locating tooling that was not good enough to hold the chain in place for the repeated cuts. I have heard from a couple of others the same story. My conclusion is that they are like the price, "not much". best of luck.

Dave Ogren

[Mike Ramsey]

I have one, club members have a couple more, we use it, we like it, &
it does a good job for a HF product. We also just had a demo on the
saw blade sharpener, it did good too!

[Harvey Mushman]

Last Friday I spent about an hour in a HF store. There were a few name brand items like Gorilla Glue and Loctite, but I gotta tell you, I left the store shaking my head. I had never seen so much new junk. A few items that could have been OK were a pipe bender which still looked to be home made and a decent large tool chest. They had some good deals on tarps. But aside from that, everything was really cheaply made. Also, I thought that maybe for a one time use some of their inventory would work for you, but I just don't think any of it will hold up to even occasional use.

[Jeff Nicol]

Reply to Harvey: Lots of guys, myself included like to buy some things when they have the 15%-20% coupons. I will buy an Item that may be a bigger ticket item and use it to see if buying a better name brand one in the future is justified. I have bought some things there that I am still using today, I got a nice little air compressor for $42 with a coupon. I built a whole cabin with the thing using nail guns and filling tractors etc. It has never let me down. The thing about alot of it is the idea is good but the fit and finish sucks! I have a bunch of their diamond coated blades and burrs and they work just like one that costs X3! I agree that lots of it is just plain crap, but to get you through a job or specific task, cheap is good sometimes!

Just my 2 cents,

Jeff

[Nathan Hawkes]

Jim,

My neighbor bought two (2) of them about 2 years ago. Returned them both. It was something about the chain locating tooling that was not good enough to hold the chain in place for the repeated cuts. I have heard from a couple of others the same story. My conclusion is that they are like the price, "not much". best of luck.

Dave Ogren

Same experience here; I know someone who was extremely upset with his, and returned it and got a better one. I personally own the Northern tools (chinese copy) version of the Oregon 311A (maybe 511A??), which is a good grinder, but a bit more at about $100: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200327449_200327449

It too has its problems; you have to adjust the chain advance between right and left cutters; that is to say that it cuts one side about 1.5mm shorter than the other, but it is very consistent, and is very "repeatable" as far as the results are concerned; its a heavy, metal framed tool. I've been happy with it, and have used it a lot to sharpen up to 42" milling chains with no problem(that's why I got the grinder---135 links on a 42" chain are too many for me to sharpen by hand very often). Even running the thing for well over an hour at a time it didn't get more than a little warm to the touch. I would've worn out the HF one in a couple weeks time, I'm afraid. I suppose its all about what you want it to do, and how exact you need it to be. If you're demanding, and will punish it, then you might need more than the HF one. If you're willing to fiddle with it a lot and make sure each cut is right, then the HF model will work fine.

[Don Carter]

Jim:
A forester friend of mine turned me on to the Dremel tool attachement. I use it to touch up the chain. It works pretty good.

All the best.

Don

[Nathan Hawkes]

Hey Jim, I think you really need one of these: :D:D


http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=65620&catID=152



Pretty ridiculous, huh? Check out the site, though. If you aren't already ordering chain from Baileys, you should be. Their "woodsman pro" brand chain is re-badged carlton chain, at a much lower price than carlton sells for. I buy chain in rolls and make my own, as buying multiple 32" and 42" chains to cut crotch slabs is rather expensive... BTW, the carlton grinder they sell (for about 120) is the same model I bought from Northern Tool, so I read from posters on a chainsaw forum I sometimes frequent.

[Chuck Jones]

I use a chainsaw probably about as much as any "non professional"... part time sawmill operation, a little timber felling, log salvaging, firewood for my shop, etc. and I have yet to understand why I would need a chainsaw sharpener. I just get a good file of the correct size for the chain (takes a few minutes of research, but not much), put a handle on it, hold it close to the correct angle (usually marked on top of tooth), take 3-4 swipes with the taper, move on the the next tooth. Hard part is finding where I started (eyesight's not what it used to be). Doesn't take but a few minutes and your chain will last a heck of a lot longer. It may last so long you have to file the guides down occasionally. That doesn't take long either. Just buy a cheap tool and a flat file. Sorry if this sounds cocky, arrogant, or whatever. I don't usually do that, but I have just never understood the need for high powered equipment for such a simple task, especially when the users are skilled and handy with tools like you folks are.

[Bob Hallowell]

I cut 4-5 cord a year along with turning stock and find a hand file works just fine. you can sharpen a chain in 5 minutes or less.

Bob

[Allen Neighbors]

I've been using a dremel tool freehand with the correct sized stone. I get the brown stones from a True Value hardware, which outlast the pink dremel stones 3 to 1. Cheapest and easiest I've ever tried.

[Rick Prosser]

Can't comment on HF stuff. I use the hand file too. I have heard that the machines and dremel will take off much more material than hand sharpening.

I usually stick a piece of ductape on a tooth to know where to stop (my eyes are bad too). Plus - I can sharpen the saw anywhere! Don't have to remove the chain either.

If it gets really bad, a local shop will charge around $10 or so to sharpen on their machine. No fuss, no muss, no figuring out how to set up the machine.

[Jim Kountz]

I use a chainsaw probably about as much as any "non professional"... part time sawmill operation, a little timber felling, log salvaging, firewood for my shop, etc. and I have yet to understand why I would need a chainsaw sharpener. I just get a good file of the correct size for the chain (takes a few minutes of research, but not much), put a handle on it, hold it close to the correct angle (usually marked on top of tooth), take 3-4 swipes with the taper, move on the the next tooth. Hard part is finding where I started (eyesight's not what it used to be). Doesn't take but a few minutes and your chain will last a heck of a lot longer. It may last so long you have to file the guides down occasionally. That doesn't take long either. Just buy a cheap tool and a flat file. Sorry if this sounds cocky, arrogant, or whatever. I don't usually do that, but I have just never understood the need for high powered equipment for such a simple task, especially when the users are skilled and handy with tools like you folks are.

Doesnt sound cocky at all chuck, I appreciate your comments and suggestions. I do file by hand and always have, I just came across that thing today and was wondering what folks thought about it. It seemed interesting and certainly is cheap enough. Truth be told though I didnt like the idea of having to take the chain off to sharpen it. I assume you have to do that with one of these rigs. I have used the same file for years and you're right about filing the guides down, amazing how many people use chainsaws and dont know that!!

[Bernie Weishapl]

I got my stones from Stihl for my dremel tool. When I am at the shop I use it to touch up a chain and when I am in the field I just use a hand file free hand.

[Richard Madison]

Another hand filer, with a twist. I chuck the file in a cordless drill and hold the free end in a small divot in a block of wood. Note to set drill for correct direction of rotation.

Suggest always remove chain to sharpen, as you really do not want those filings/grindings between the chain and the bar. I clamp chain in a bench vise, do a few teeth, and move chain to next few teeth. Mark first tooth with felt tip marker, and hope to see it again soon as you work your way around the chain. Reverse chain in vise and sharpen other side teeth.

[Bill Embrey]

Jim, I have one and use it to sharpen my regular chains and the ones I re-grind the tooth angle on for ripping. It's plastic and a little "cheesy"... but for what I needed, it works fine.

Bill (in OK)

[Chuck Jones]

stick a piece of ductape on a tooth to know where to stop

Why couldn't I have thought of that? I use duct tape for about everything except toilet paper, but never thought of that.

[Steve Campbell]

Chuck , Back when I used to cut a lot of wood the first thing I would do to a new chain is take a flat file and file a small groove on top of one of the teeth. When It comes time to sharpen just rotate the chain till you see the groove and begin to sharpen.
I use one of the file holding jigs on the market when I'm at home. Out in the woods I just use a hand file.

Steve

[robert hainstock]

I have used a chain filing jig for my chains always. With this devise, I can be sure the up, and cros angle will alwyays be the same. As noted two or three swipes is plenty, I mark the first tooth with a BLACK marker pen, go through all the teeth on one side before shifting the jig. Pretty consistant. I would only buy the HF tool if it had some sure way of maintaining those very important angles. A commersial sharpener has these features. Good luck on your drcision. :)
Bob

[Jim Glock]

The round hand file in a cordless drill...works great for me. j

[Leo Van Der Loo]

No Jim, there are cheaper ways to ruin a chain :eek:

I also use a file to sharpen, every tooth will get sharpened and no more than needed, even a nicked tooth !!

[Philip Duffy]

Absolutely the best answer! We don't always need a power tool to do the job! Phil

[Jim Kountz]

Absolutely the best answer! We don't always need a power tool to do the job! Phil

Never said I needed it, was just curious, thats all. This has become one of those threads I wish I had never posted. If you read the entire thread you would have seen where I said I too use a file but just happened upon this thing and was curious about it.