Drawer Lock Bit Setup

[Anthony Whitesell]

I have just started making some drawers and boxes. I'm playing with all the methods (box joint, dovetail, drawer lock, miter and lock miter, etc.)

Lately I have been working with this drawer lock bit:

107423

I didn't find an insturction page for the bit on the Bosch website, but I found one at Rockler for a smaller diameter bit of the same design. (there are two 'drawer lock joint' bit designs on the market)

http://www.rockler.com/tech/53810.pdf

I understand to set the fence to get the reveal for the drawer front lip, But I am having some issues with setting the bit height. Is it my imagination or is there only one bit height for this bit that gets a tight fit?

[Bill Huber]

I have just started making some drawers and boxes. I'm playing with all the methods (box joint, dovetail, drawer lock, miter and lock miter, etc.)

Lately I have been working with this drawer lock bit:

107423

I didn't find an insturction page for the bit on the Bosch website, but I found one at Rockler for a smaller diameter bit of the same design. (there are two 'drawer lock joint' bit designs on the market)

http://www.rockler.com/tech/53810.pdf

I understand to set the fence to get the reveal for the drawer front lip, But I am having some issues with setting the bit height. Is it my imagination or is there only one bit height for this bit that gets a tight fit?

This should help......

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmtdrw1.htm

I would also say bookmark his site, it is great and there is so much information there. John Lucas is a member of the Creek and gives great feedback on post.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Based on my trial and error work at the house this weekend and that site, I'll still say there is only one height at which to setup the bit and the actual stock thickness has nothing to do with the bit height.

[Joe Scharle]

MLCS has some videos and instruction sheets.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_door.html#drawer_lock_bits_anchor

[Dave Falkenstein]

I use the same drawer lock bit on both 1/2" and 3/4" stock. The setup is different, but it is the same bit. The photo of your Bosch bit looks a whole lot like the profile on my Woodline and Whiteside bits. John's setup instructions at woodshopdemos.com worked for me. I have also read the instructions at MLCS and Woodline. They are all basically the same.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Unfortunately, the MLCS instructions focus too heavily on the other drawer lock joint bit.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Dave, when you say the setup is different, what is different? I believe the fence setting is different, but I think the bit height would be the same. Is it not?

[Dave Falkenstein]

Dave, when you say the setup is different, what is different? I believe the fence setting is different, but I think the bit height would be the same. Is it not?

Anthony - Yes, you are correct that the bit height is the same for both setups. I did the two setups for 1/2" and 3/4" stock at two different times, and made templates. I looked at the templates, and the bit height is the same. I never paid much attention to the setup once the templates were made - I just use the templates to set the bit height and fence, and fine-tune from there.

I have one tip that I learned from using the bit. If you are making drawers using baltic birch plywood, you will get a clean cut on the sides if you make a scoring cut on the table saw before you run the sides through the router table. The top of the bit tends to tear plywood, and the scoring cut eliminates the tear-out.

I don't know what you mean by "two 'drawer lock joint' bit designs" and "the other drawer lock joint bit". I have drawer lock bits from two different sources - Woodline and Whiteside. Other that a difference in diameter, the profile is similar to your photo. There is a lock (or locking) miter bit also available, but that is not typically referred to as a drawer lock bit.

[Sonny Edmonds]

This is why my RT is set up for minute adjustment, so fitting can be very carefully dialed in.
Use MDF for your trial stock to make your set up. MDF is a consistent dimensional medium to get stuff dialed in.
Once you do get your bit set-up dialed in, keep a piece for the next time you need to use it.
Make your own, or buy them. Here's the idea (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10247&filter=router%20bit%20set-up).

[Anthony Whitesell]

It turns out that there are two bit designs both called "drawer lock". Though this isn't a popular topic in the forums, it has caused confusion more than once. One looks like a reversible glue joint and, well, the other doesn't.

I snagged this from the MLCS website.
107443

Typically the design on the right has a larger diameter than the one on the left. I know that Rockler sells both a large and small diameter bit for the style on the right.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I'm working on that. That what one of these drawers are for. But for this bit I need some verification that I wasn't imagining things about the setup.

[Don Selke]

Anthony:

Shop Notes magazine also has a very good video on the set-up and use of this bit. Here is the link. http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/096/videos/drawer-joint-bits/

I use this bit for making production drawers and sliding trays. I have never had a failure with it.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I guess that video says it all..."Because of the design of the bit, there's only one height that works for any stock thickness. All you need to change is the fence."

[harry strasil]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/other/drawerlock.jpg

[Anthony Whitesell]

Yes, but easier said than done.

[Dave Falkenstein]

It turns out that there are two bit designs both called "drawer lock"...

Anthony - thanks for the clarification. I have not shopped for a drawer lock bit a while, and the alternate profile has become available since the last time I looked.

[Carl Thomas]

Dave I'm fairly new to woodworking. And I'm using the Rockler Drawer Lock Router Bit - 1" Dia x 1/2" H x 1/2" and I'm making drawers using baltic birch plywood. Would explane to to how to make a scoring cut on the table saw before you run the sides through the router table. And can you make a templates of this?

[Carl Thomas]

This should help......<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmtdrw1.htm" target="_blank">http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmtdrw1.htm</a><br>
<br>
I would also say bookmark his site, it is great and there is so much information there. John Lucas is a member of the Creek and gives great feedback on post.<br><br>Is this what I should get?<br> http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmtdrw1.htm<br><br>
<br>

[glenn bradley]

Based on my trial and error work at the house this weekend and that site, I'll still say there is only one height at which to setup the bit and the actual stock thickness has nothing to do with the bit height.

Correct. Call it height or position but, that adjustment determines the tongue size which must match the profile of the groove cut by the widest part of the bit. It could not work otherwise ;-)

[Carl Thomas]

Anthony:<br>
<br>
Shop Notes magazine also has a very good video on the set-up and use of this bit. Here is the link. <a href="http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/096/videos/drawer-joint-bits/" target="_blank">http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/096/videos/drawer-joint-bits/</a><br>
<br>
I use this bit for making production drawers and sliding trays. I have never had a failure with it.<br><br>Don I have read three or four articles on this bit and they talk about using this bit to also make the groves for the bottoms with this bit also. Have you used it make the grooves for the bottom?<br>
<br>

[Ray Newman]

See the current Woodmsith, vol. 37, No. 222, pp. 12-13, for a how-to-do-it article on setting up drawer lock bits for both lipped and non-lipped drawers.

[Bill Neely]

I use a cutting gauge to score cross grain before running the parts:

Here's one at Lee Valley - item A: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=50263&cat=1,42936,42948,50263

[Bob Reda]

"This should help......<br>
<br>
< a href="http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmtdrw1.htm" target="_blank">http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmtdrw1.htm</a><br>
<br>
I would also say bookmark his site, it is great and there is so much information there. John Lucas is a member of the Creek and gives great feedback on post."


Unfortunately, John Lucas passed away a few years ago. It used to be on the web site. I think you can still purchase a cd of all the info he has for around $18 if there are any left. He put out a lot of good info!

Bob