Removing Krylon Fusion

[Steve Clarkson]

I masked and engraved a piece of clear extruded acrylic and then painted it with Krylon Fusion, but the paint bled through the masking so after I removed it, there are a few little streaks of paint. Anyone know what I should use to remove the paint streaks?

I tried water and DNA and neither worked. I assume if I use paint thinner it will damage the acrylic. Will acetone work? Sanding?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[Dee Gallo]

Hey Steve,

Whenever I have to scrape paint from any plastic, I use a plastic razor blade. Looks like a metal one (double sided) but it is gentle on surfaces. Car guys use them for scraping stray paint from new paint jobs. So check the automotive paint department.

You can also buy them from Lee Valley, the best tool company out there.

cheers, dee

[Larry Bratton]

Steve:
Try WD40. Dang stuff is amazing. I color filled some solid surface and needed to clean off the paint..Krylon..wiped it WD40 on a microfiber cloth and it came off clean.

[Joe Pelonio]

Rapid Remover, mentioned in other posts for removal of vinyl adhesive and engraved plastic sticky edges will do the trick. Available at Sign Supplies.

[Steve Clarkson]

Larry, you're a genious......it worked and so far no crazing.

Thanks Dee and Joe.....I'll have to pick up both of those things.....I'm sure I'll need them in the future.

[Richard Rumancik]

For acrylics, the manufacturers usually suggest NOT to use aromatic hydrocarbons (tolulenes, xylene), alcohols, or ketones (MEK, acetone). Having said that, some people say they use alcohol or Product X "all the time" with no ill effects. It can depend somewhat on the chemistry of the acrylic, as well as cast vs. acrylic. The suppliers are trying to make their products more chemically resistant, but convensional wisdom says these chemicals could cause trouble.

The "recommended" chemicals are usually kerosene or aliphatic naphtha (which I understand is what Coleman camp fuel is comprised of - approximately). These two chemicals are less likely to cause problems. I would tend to try them first before using a more agressive chemical. In any case, it is best to so a test piece before trying on your workpiece. To check for crazing touch a lasered edge of the part with chemical.

Crazing does not always occur instantly. It can be risky to ship something and find out later it was received with crazing.

A lot of shower enclosures are made from acrylic. You may be able to find a cleaner used for these that is suitable and gentle.

[Steve Clarkson]

Thanks Richard.....I'm going to hang onto this piece for a few more days.....I'll let everyone know if I see any crazing. Guess I'll have to add Sports Authority to my shopping agenda.

[Larry Bratton]

WD40 is a hydrocarbon. However, it's MSDS shows it to be a Aliphatic hydrocarbon opposed to the aromatic hydrocarbon Richard refers to. Not a chemist for sure, but as I see it, the aromatic contains a benzene ring which gives it the smell. Ben(zene), I would suppose would cause crazing. I have not used this stuff on regular acrylic, so I reckon the jury is out on that. I'm going to try it out to see if I get any evidence of crazing. I know for sure that isopropyl alcohol will cause acrylic to haze in some cases. I think the particular material has a something to do with it too.

[Richard Rumancik]

Correct, benzene is not usually recommended on acrylic.

Some people are using DNA (denatured alcohol) which I assume is ethyl alcohol (ethanol). In low concentrations it is probably okay. Take for example the resistance of Acrylite:
http://www.hydrosight.com/pdf/acrylic_sheet_chemical_resistance.pdf

Ethyl alcohol is okay at concentrations below 15%. Acrylite has limited resistance to isopropyl alcohol. Same for methanol (which someone recommended recently.)

Also, crazing is more likely to occur on a cut edge than on an engraved area. There are many variables involved. Since all acrylic is not equal and we are buying from different sources and different brands, it is risky to generalize as to what is safe. As well, the chemicals come in different concentrations so unless one is specific as to what is being used (eg DNA 15% ethyl alcohol) the information cannot be applied universally without investigation and testing. It is best if you know your material manufacturer and the grade used so you can consult the manufacturer. Use the least aggressive chemical first.

WD40 seems to contain a "stoddard solvent" which is generally hexane from what I gather. Hexane is considered okay for acrylic. There are other proprietary ingredients in WD40 but I did not see anything identified that causes immediate concern. It is hard to be sure with mixtures, as their recipe tends to be secretive and even the MSDS can be hard to decipher. I will give WD40 a try sometime.

I have a bottle of "Goo-Gone" here. It says it contains "hydrocarbons". That sure narrows it down . . .

For most chemicals it would probably be prudent to wash the article with soap and water afterwards.

[Steve Clarkson]

Sounds like Dee's suggestion is looking better and better.....

Oh, and the DNA didn't remove any of the paint, so that's out anyway.

[Randy Walker]

Hey Steve
Some of the new paints are formulated with amonia. If it had an amonia smell when applying it you may be able to use amonia as a solvent. Try it on scrap first.

Randy

[Steve Clarkson]

Thanks Randy....I'll have to go buy some of that too!

Geez....you guys keep making my shopping list grow.......

[Dee Gallo]

I hate to even ask this, but have you looked on the can to see what they recommend for cleanup? This might give you a hint as to the best way to remove it or what solvent to try.

[Steve Clarkson]

Hehehe......I guess I'm getting old.....cause my eyes sure can't read that fine print!!!! I'll give it alook in the morning when there's more light!

Good idea though......sometimes we overlook the obvious!

[Frank Corker]

hehehe......i guess i'm getting old.....cause my eyes sure can't read that fine print!!!! I'll give it alook in the morning when there's more light! Good idea though......sometimes we overlook the obvious!


well duh!!!!

[Dan Hintz]

You know what they say, you always find what you're looking for in the last place you look :D

[Tim Bateson]

Dee, We're guys, we don't read directions. That would be too simple. :p:p:p:p

[Larry Bratton]

When all else fails...READ THE DIRECTIONS!
(old southern proverb)

[Dee Gallo]

Guys! That's why I said "I hate to even ask..."

If I had a can, I'd look for you, Steve, because I know it's almost painful for guys to read instructions. But I don't so you're on your own.

This actually amazes me, since most of you guys seem able to quote MSDS sheets and stats like mad...

[Scott Shepherd]

If I had a can, I'd look for you, Steve, because I know it's almost painful for guys to read instructions. But I don't so you're on your own.

This actually amazes me, since most of you guys seem able to quote MSDS sheets and stats like mad...

Dee, I can send you a can (I hope someone gets that!) :D

We quote MSDS because it keeps us from growing extra limbs. We don't read directions because we don't like anyone telling us how we can do things. We already have someone telling us what to do, we don't need a random stranger telling us :p:p:p:p:D

[Dee Gallo]

hahaha Scott, you kill me.

Lucky I spent 25 years with convicted felons... they prepared me for you guys!