Best / easiest finish for oak desktop

[travis howe]

Okay, I'm getting closer to getting this desk taken care of!;)

It's going to be oak w/ some turquoise inlay.

Thoughts on finish for this? I'm thinking the "bar top" finish might be overkill, but might be easiest if I don't get it on too think.

Which brands?

Obviously I want it to be clear as possible...

Thanks!

[willie sobat]

I think that your method of application will have a lot to do with what will work best for you. For hand applied finishes I like shellac and wiping polyurethane. The poly is easier to use and with enough coats will produce a durable and solvent resistant finish. I don't know about it sticking to the turquoise though. For that shellac may be a better choice. I certainly think it looks best. Both of these finishes can impart a yellow cast though, except maybe super blond shellac. Good luck.

[John Sanford]

If you want "as clear as possible", then you want either a water based poly, or lacquer.

[Dewey Torres]

If you go with the Epoxy Coat I use this one (http://www.systemthree.com/p_mirror_coat.asp) all though a company called West system is a good brand and there are others.

[Casey Gooding]

The easiest for a clear finish is spray cans of lacquer. I think bar top finish or epoxy is serious overkill for a desk.

[Joe Chritz]

Target coats 9000 polyurethane. Thin is with water and it can be wiped on and it is water clear.

You should check on the inlays to make sure it will do ok over that but I expect it should be fine. A quick call to the tech will answer that for you.

I prefer USL or their conversion varnish but neither are truly water clear.

Joe

[Mike Null]

I am partial to wipe on poly but it takes 5 or 6 coats with steel wool after every second coat for a great finish.

[Steve Schoene]

If you are going to write on the desk you will have to fill the pores of the oak. I would lightly seal the surface with one coat of 2lb. cut shellac and then use a commercial pore filler such as Behlen Pore O Pak. You will have to experiment on scrap to determine how to tint the filler. You can keep it relatively light colored and it will maintain the appearance of a very clear, light toned finish. Oak has very large pores, and you may well need two coats of the pore filler to get them completely filled, particularly if it is red oak. Let the pore filler cure for longer than the label recommends, seal with another coat of shellac or two. Use a super blonde shellac to keep the finish very light. If I expected rough use, I would then top coat with a soya based alkyd varnish such as Pratt & Lambert 38 or the Cabot 8000 series varnish. Polyurethane varnishes would be softer, and are linseed oil based which makes them a bit darker and more prone to yellowing over time.