Creating your own bench hardware?

[James G. Jones]

I know that many will tell me that it would be easier to buy a vise, or at least a kit. I am sure it would be, but has anyone else wanted to create their own bench hardware? I would like to make a twin screw face vise for a Holtzapffel style bench with acme threaded rod. Has anyone done this? What are the difficulties I am liable to face? Most of the new bench posts involve existing vises or the purchase of one way out of my budget. There was a post earlier about doing it right the first time which involved a leg vise made with all thread. I didn't want to hijack his thread, but that's exactly my situation now. If anyone has done or tried it I would love to hear from you.

Thanks,
James

[Douglas Brummett]

This exact topic is discussed on this forum today. Basically all thread may get you in business, but the threads are too fine and will eventually fail. ACME rod stock is more expensive than the import vise screws available currently. In the end it is rather a poor attempt at re-creating the wheel. If you are wanting to do it for project sake, by all means proceed. If doing it to save time and money, you won't.

[Robert Rozaieski]

Much easier to do it out of wood than threaded rod I think. Big wood screws like these are also more durable than all thread and the vise is easily removable when you need access to the whole front of the bench. Plus they just have a cool factor unmatched by threaded rod :D.

All you need is a cheap ($40 or so) 1-1/2" wood threading kit, a couple hardwood dowels for the screws and some scraps to make the screw heads. No lathe necessary. These are old pictures but they should give you an idea. The front chop is just a piece of 8/4 drilled so the screws pass through and the rear jaw is another piece of 8/4 with tapped holes that is lag screwed to the bench top from the bottom. I've since made the handles shorter so they don't interfere with each other.
http://logancabinetshoppe.weebly.com/uploads/9/4/7/5/947508/4974546_orig.jpg

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=93676&d=1217506572

[Matt Meiser]

I used a pair of vise screws fro. Lee Valley and am happy with the results. They are around $100 a pair.

[David Keller NC]

"Most of the new bench posts involve existing vises or the purchase of one way out of my budget."

There's a solution for (almost) every budget, but making your own vise is not likely to save you money, for the reasons folks cited above. And all-thread rod just isn't sturdy enough to make much other than shop panel clamps.

The least expensive way to get a decent quality vise is to buy a used face-type vise (the "normal" woodworking vise design, if there is such a thing). Assuming you're in the 'States, there's a local MWTCA chapter in your area (that's Mid West Tool Collector's Association - http://www.mwtca.org/).

More often than not, you can get common tools at MWTCA events cheaper than you can get one on fleabay, and you get hold it, evaluate its condition, and talk to the owner. In general, a "Record" type face vise of the 1950's or earlier vintage will cost you about $30 - $40, in good, workable shape, though you may have to do a little rust removal and/or painting. And these vises are far better quality than the far east clones that have come onto the market in the last 10 years.

A very workable solution for a two-vise bench is to use one of these "face vises" in both positions - the face position and the end-vise position. Many have this arrangement, and while perhaps not as snazzy in the looks department as a Veritas twin-screw and a Jameel Abram wagon vise, they're perfectly functional and dirt cheap.

- Editorial -

More than anything else in your shop, including a table saw, band saw, planer, jointer, etc..., a workbench that cuts corners in the name of saving money will frustrate you and show up in your work, at least if you intend to use hand tools. Like most other things, there's diminishing returns at the top end of the scale, and there's major sacrifices in functionality for small money differences at the low end of the scale. Popular Woodworking had an article detailing a $175 bench. It's no-frills and functional, with one vise, but this is near the absolute minimum you should spend on building a workbench. It's far, far better to save a bit on a used lunchbox planer or some elcheapo router bits than it is to scrimp on a workbench. I'm stating this from personal experience, and I learned this the hard way.

[Bill Keehn]

Love the wooden screws. Thats what I want to do. Already have the threading kit.

[John Schreiber]

I think it can be done. Making wooden screws and nuts is possible, but difficult and would require a substantial investment in equipment. Making metal screws and nuts is also possible, but only if you have a metal lathe, a very substantial investment. You could buy threaded rod, but for a vise, you really need acme thread and it is not cheap. After you have it, you would still need to machine it to make it into a vise, and that's not cheap.

I would suggest looking at woodworking catalogs for parts for tail vises, shoulder vises, veneer presses, book presses, etc. Find an acme screw built into something which will meet most of your needs at a price you can afford, then build a vise around that.

Lee Valley is always good: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=31138&cat=1,43838

I see this one comes in an 18" length: http://www.wetzler.com/press.shtml Wetzler is an old time quality company.

You can make guide rails out of wood and/or you could make it a double screw vise.

[Bill Keehn]

The threadbox and tap I have is from Woodcraft. It's 1.5" and 6 turns per inch, for $43. Threading the screw and tapping the hole is pretty easy.

It was more troublesome finding 1.5" round stock. Your choices are limited from most suppliers so you might have to make your own on the lathe or the router.

The biggest problem with the threading kit is that 6 TPI is too fine pitch, and the threads just arent deep enough for a vice.

I've got a book somewhere that shows how to make threaded rods on your power tools, but the tapped hole is another story.

[Don C Peterson]

I think it can be done. Making wooden screws and nuts is possible, but difficult and would require a substantial investment in equipment. Making metal screws and nuts is also possible, but only if you have a metal lathe, a very substantial investment.

Actually, making wooden screws (up to 1 1/2") is easy and pretty cheap. Woodcraft sells threading kits (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=792) for around $40 that include both the tap and die, after you have the kit all you need is a drill bit and hardwood dowel of the correct size.

The Beal tool company also sells threading kits (http://www.bealltool.com/products/threading/) that make use of a router, and I imagine they would make the process a bit easier (with more setup) but they are more than double the cost of the Woodcraft kits.

[Ian Gillis]

Hi

I've been struggling with this question myself. I want to add a leg vise to an existing bench. I have a Record quick release vise on the front right and I want to add the leg vise to the opposite side/end.

I've looked at the taps and thread cutters, also Roy Underhill's homespun method.

A good wooden bench screw should last a long time if made from good material, has a good thread design and is treated with some respect. They are, however, the weakest part of the vise.

If I planned to make a lot of then, I would gear up for making them. I think, based on seeing old benches, that the thread pitch on the commercially available products is too fine. Or, at least it's much finer than what I've seen in old wooden screws. I think someone could make some money if they made a tap and cutter for a 2" 2-3tpi bench screw. I'm not the first one to think of this.

Anyway, that's why I abandoned the idea of a wooden bench screw. I can't easily make or buy what I think is a suitable wooden screw. So, I started to look at what's available in a steel screw here in Nova Scotia.

I dropped the dime just yesterday on 2 16"L x 1 1/8"D Acme threaded screws from Asia at a sale price of CAN $15 each. The nut and T-fitting are included.

Whatever you might think about buying imports, or Asian vs European quality -- I'm betting these screws will serve me and probably whoever comes after me for a long time. And I got them for less than the price of a thread cutter.


For Canadians, the store is BusyBee Tools. If I was in the US, I suppose I'd look at what Grizzly or Harbor Freight has to offer.

My .0159518 USD worth (2 Canadian cents)

Ian

[David Keller NC]

James - One other thought. If you want to go really old school, Roy Underhill's latest book "The Woodwright's Shop: Working Wood with Wedge and Edge" has a very detailed set of instructions on how to produce your own metal tap and wooden screw box. With these instructions, you can produce a screw box and tap that's capable of 2" or 3" (or larger, if you've got the muscle) wooden vise screws with 2 threads per inch, which is ideal and often seen on antique benches.

I haven't made one yet, but plan to. Should be an interesting, ridiculously complex, and frustrating project. ;)

[John Schreiber]

Actually, making wooden screws (up to 1 1/2") is easy and pretty cheap. . . .
The relatively inexpensive sets I've seen seem too small for a bench vise. The largest of the Beal sets is 1 1/2" and 5 tpi. And, even if you could do the threading, a bench screw would also require a lathe. It still might work though.

The other reason I suspect they wouldn't be up to snuff for a bench vise is that the people who make wooden screws for bench vises seem to have worked pretty hard to succeed at it. For an amateur to have success on their first try doesn't seem likely. If it's something that someone wants to work at though, more power to them, but I don't think its a way to solve the original poster's problem.

[Robert Rozaieski]

I think it can be done. Making wooden screws and nuts is possible, but difficult and would require a substantial investment in equipment.
John,
I couldn't disagree with this statement more. The equipment used to make the screws I made above were the threadbox and tap set from Woodcraft, a 1-1/2" forstner bit, a 1-1/4" forstner bit and my regular woodworking hand tools. Very simple tools and no special equipment outside of the threadbox and tap were required ;). And they certainly were not difficult to make. The head of the screw was made separate from the shaft and then the shaft was inserted into a hole drilled into the head and then pegged to hold it in place. We didn't even glue them in as it was unnecessary. The shaft was made from a 1-1/2" birch dowel from Woodcraft. Total cost including lumber to make 2 vises (one for me and one for a friend) was about $90 so that's about $45 each. That's cheaper than any decent pre-made vise I've ever seen.


The threadbox and tap I have is from Woodcraft. It's 1.5" and 6 turns per inch, for $43. Threading the screw and tapping the hole is pretty easy.

It was more troublesome finding 1.5" round stock. Your choices are limited from most suppliers so you might have to make your own on the lathe or the router.

The biggest problem with the threading kit is that 6 TPI is too fine pitch, and the threads just arent deep enough for a vice.

I've got a book somewhere that shows how to make threaded rods on your power tools, but the tapped hole is another story.
Bill,
Why do you think that 6 TPI is too fine? I think the pitch is fine at 6 TPI. And the threads are plenty deep enough. I've cranked pretty hard on mine and have yet to chip a thread (I'll probably break a screw now :rolleyes::D). You mostly work with 1 and 2 inch thick material anyway so most of the time you're not turning the screw more than 6 to 12 revolutions. FWIW, most machine made screws are more than 6 TPI which is why quick releases were invented. The 1-1/2" dowel stock is available at woodcraft in several different wood choices. Folks can just pick up a 3' dowel for less than $10 when they buy the threading kit. :confused:


Actually, making wooden screws (up to 1 1/2") is easy and pretty cheap. Woodcraft sells threading kits (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=792) for around $40 that include both the tap and die, after you have the kit all you need is a drill bit and hardwood dowel of the correct size.
Don,
Exactly how the screws above were made ;). Total cost about $45 per vise for 2 vises.

[Robert Rozaieski]

The relatively inexpensive sets I've seen seem too small for a bench vise. The largest of the Beal sets is 1 1/2" and 5 tpi. And, even if you could do the threading, a bench screw would also require a lathe. It still might work though.

The other reason I suspect they wouldn't be up to snuff for a bench vise is that the people who make wooden screws for bench vises seem to have worked pretty hard to succeed at it. For an amateur to have success on their first try doesn't seem likely. If it's something that someone wants to work at though, more power to them, but I don't think its a way to solve the original poster's problem.

Mine was a first attempt. No problem. It's not hard. Try it :D!

[John Schreiber]

Mine was a first attempt. No problem. It's not hard. Try it :D!
I stand corrected, and I'm glad I was wrong. I may give it a try some time.

[Don C Peterson]

It seems that the popular perception is that to make a good vise you have to have a very low (2-3) TPI and that anything much finer is just not adequate. Like many other popularly held beliefs, this one is wrong. The strength and durability of a threaded connection is more dependent on total surface area that is engaged than on any particular thread count. Of course the strength of materials used is an important factor, but this can be compensated for by increasing the area of contact, i.e. make the nut deeper to increase the total force that a screw is capable of generating.

[Jim Paulson]

Hi everyone,

I couldn't agree more with Robert on this one. Nice shot of your workshop too. It helps to use forstner bits I've found when making threads. I purchased a 1-1/2 " diameter wooden tap and die set and made the same kind of vise that Robert did. Believe me that the threads do the job.

I made mine to work on of all things a portable workbench that Roy Underhill illustrated in his book The Woodwright's Apprentice. I did that after discovering that the larger size wooden taps, 1-3/4" diameter weren't available. Mike Dunbar in FWW made a bench with same style of vise and he used a 1-3/4" diameter threading kit. I use mine to hold seats for shaping with drawkives and spokeshaves.

The only difference that I make with Robert is that I turned my wooden rods in one piece from a staves I split from a maple log. Using Robert's method you can avoid the turning part. I do a fair amount of spindle turning for Windsor chairs.

So far I've only had a problem with one of my wooden taps and that involved a defective cutter.

Best wishes,
Jim

[harry strasil]

I am going to say it again, most metal WWing vise screws are not Acme Thread, but Square thread and the good old ones were DOUBLE LEAD, in other words there are 2 completely different threads running side by side so that a screw with what looks like 6 threads per inch actually is two 3 thread per inch threads side by side and they open and close much faster than the new SINGLE LEAD screws available today.

[Pedro Reyes]

Robert/Jim,

Thanks for posting this, I have, over time, purchased three threading kits from Woodcraft, the 1-1/2 is the biggest one and I believe I also have a 3/4" which I was planning to use on smaller screws I want to make, for other applications.

I had my doubts about the quality of these threads once put to work, but I'm glad you have both shared this.

I have a small Rikon mini-lathe so I was planning on turning my own screw stock, any wood you would recommend?

Robert,

I also saw your new toy (spring pole lathe), wow, admirable, inspiring. Let us know how it performs.

peace

/p

[Ian Gillis]

Hi

If people like 6tpi screws, and if they work well and wear well -- more power to them.

I hope I don't sound too defensive, but my comment was in favour of doing it the old way because such specs usually evolved over a long time and for good reasons. Same as cutting dovetails at 80*, the grinding bevels on our plane irons etc. We can deviate from these, but they are probably the best places to start if you're new at the game.

Also, having seen a number of old workbenches from the 19th and early 20th centuries, one develops an idea of what looks "right". The old rounded-shoulder wide threads look right to me. 6tpi will look right to someone who is more familiar with that style.

I have nothing against using finer pitch screws, but it's not my choice, and I don't want to add to the perception that it's no good, because I've never tried one or even seen one.

Cheers

Ian

Just an example in case anyone thinks I'm making this stuff up ;)

[Ian Gillis]

I am going to say it again, most metal WWing vise screws are not Acme Thread, but Square thread and the good old ones were DOUBLE LEAD, in other words there are 2 completely different threads running side by side so that a screw with what looks like 6 threads per inch actually is two 3 thread per inch threads side by side and they open and close much faster than the new SINGLE LEAD screws available today.


Hey Jr

Sorry, I never saw your post on threads. I just looked at some pictures and I can see the difference in the taper on the Acme. Makes sense, it makes it more accurate as a lead screw. You wouldn't get the slop a plain square thread would allow.

I was quoting the catalog description of the place I bought it from. They ought to know the difference because they sell loads of machine tools.

Me, I'm just a humble wood butcher. All I know about that hard shiny stuff is that it'll cut you if you're not careful, and you have to rub it on a rock once in a while to keep it cutting good.

And I know it was Acme that caused that coyote on tv so much bother :D


Take care

Ian

[harry strasil]

just the opposite Ian, that's why all the lead screws and the threads on the cross slide and the compound on precision machine tools, lathes, Mills, grinders etc use square threads, because they have no taper to wear.

Jr.

[harry strasil]

for those of you who don't understand what I am saying about a DOUBLE LEAD SCREW, I took some white chalk line and wrapped it in one of the threads of an old vise screw I found and repaired the broken nut that I am going to use on my new workbench as an example.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/doubleleadthread.jpg

[James G. Jones]

Wow, I go to work for a day, come home, and what a wealth of information is waiting. First off, I'm not as concerned about the economy of this, as much as I am about the idea itself. From a project point of view, it looks like... What was it? "...an interesting, ridiculously complex, and frustrating project." Now that sounds promising.:D

Thanks David for the tip on Roy's book. I love the idea of making my own wooden screw box and tap.

Robert, I think the vise you have is what I am going to shoot for. Heck, I think that that whole image of your shop is what I should shoot for. Wish I could keep mine as clean and organized. I had originally thought of acme screws, just because... well, I don't know why, just because. Wooden screws seem to make much more sense in hindsight. I did find 1" acme threaded rod, in 12' lengths, for right at $6 a foot though for anyone wanting to go the metal route.

Jr., can you get square threaded rod anywhere?

Thanks for the many replies. I'll post pics when I get it done, which, based on my current speed should be around September 2015.:o

James

[David Keller NC]

"What was it? "...an interesting, ridiculously complex, and frustrating project." Now that sounds promising.:D"

Ha! Yeah, well no one ever learned anything by nailing 2X4s together. I've got all of Roy's books, and a lot of the projects and things he describes making in them look really primitive - until you try to make one. The "willow whistle" in one of them really gave me fits, until I saw an old-timer make one. Piece of cake, after that.

Many of Roy's projects are like that - there are a lot of very fine subtleties to them, one of the best examples I can think of is the sliding-double bevel dovetail joint that he used to join the legs to the top of his Roubo bench. The guy really knows what he's doing.

[harry strasil]

Not to my knowledgee James, it has to be cut on a metal lathee, sq threads are not the easiest thing to do. sq thd nuts are even worse.

[Alan DuBoff]

Not to my knowledgee James, it has to be cut on a metal lathee, sq threads are not the easiest thing to do. sq thd nuts are even worse.
Harry,

Most modern vises do seem to use Acme. There really is little difference in cutting a square vs. Acme thread on the lathe, it's primarily the cutter.

There was a machine surplus not too far from me and they had a pretty good deal on some machine screws, was gonna pick a couple up and make my own vise, but by the time I got back there all of them were gone. Since they have closed their doors...:(

The wood ones are the way to go if your making them yourself. If you do go the wood screw route, try to make them as big as possible, up to 2 1/2" in diameter.

[harry strasil]

Alan, Lee Valleys shoulder vise screw is still square thread, thankfully. Anyway the one they sent me is.

And you are right, there is a difference in the cutters, that's what makes square threads more difficult to cut.

[Pedro Reyes]

Harry,

... try to make them as big as possible, up to 2 1/2" in diameter.

Where can one find kits to make 2-1/2 diameter threads?

/p

EDIT: For around the same price that I got my 1-1/2" kit, I saw one on fine tools for (I hope I'm wrong) over $1,000 euros

[Alan DuBoff]

Where can one find kits to make 2-1/2 diameter threads?

/p

EDIT: For around the same price that I got my 1-1/2" kit, I saw one on fine tools for (I hope I'm wrong) over $1,000 euros
Those are the only ones I've seen, one of the local guys got some of those somewhere, I think they are made in Germany. They are much nicer than the wooden handle cutter type, but costly.

Sure, everyone wants a 2 1/2" wood threader for the price of a 1 1/2", your not the first there...;)

BigWoodVise.com sells 2" wood screws, not sure how he does them.

[Bill Keehn]

Bill,
Why do you think that 6 TPI is too fine? I think the pitch is fine at 6 TPI. And the threads are plenty deep enough. I've cranked pretty hard on mine and have yet to chip a thread (I'll probably break a screw now :rolleyes::D). You mostly work with 1 and 2 inch thick material anyway so most of the time you're not turning the screw more than 6 to 12 revolutions. FWIW, most machine made screws are more than 6 TPI which is why quick releases were invented. The 1-1/2" dowel stock is available at woodcraft in several different wood choices. Folks can just pick up a 3' dowel for less than $10 when they buy the threading kit. :confused:



Robert,

Well, first it's a matter of what looks right to me.:) A 6-TPI threaded screw with a quick release just doesn't seem very traditional. If I was going to do that, I'd rather just buy a metal vice.

Secondly it's a matter of friction and fit. The 6-TPI threading kit makes a strong joint that is squeeky tight. Sure a little lube and a little use will loosen it up a bit, at the sacrifice of thread depth and holding power. The threads aren't very deep to begin with. How much seasonal wood movement do I need before it slips out or seizes up completely?

With a square thread I can make it as deep as I want, as agressive as I want and as loose as I want at the same time. The threads aren't designed to hold the screw tightly in in the vice at all times. They are designed to wedge against the walls of the thread hole only when the vice is tightened.

I've got a book called "Old-School Woodshop Accessories". It's got a very simple jig for doing spiral turnings on the table saw. I believe it should work, but I still need to figure out how to make the hole to fit.

I hadn't seen the dowels at Woodcraft. I was just going to make them on the router, but maybe I'll look at that instead.

[David Keller NC]

One other source for big wooden vise screws is Greenlake Clock Company:

http://greenlakeclock.com/visescrews/ These are 2-1/4" diameter. Neither these nor the ones from Big Wooden Vise Screws are what I'd call "inexpensive", but after all is said and done, they're probably cheaper than setting up the equipment to do it yourself.

It is, by the way, possible to make a large wooden vise screw by carving the threads in the screw with a v-tool, and the threads in the nut by slitting it in half and using a front-bent v-tool (after you're done, you glue it back together and pin it). Obviously, this takes practice, but it's not the most difficult carving I've ever done. Most of the difficult part is the actual layout - it has to be done spot-on, or the screw will either have a lot of slop in it, or be so tight it shears off the threads on the screw.

[Robert Rozaieski]

Robert,

Well, first it's a matter of what looks right to me.:) A 6-TPI threaded screw with a quick release just doesn't seem very traditional. If I was going to do that, I'd rather just buy a metal vice.

Secondly it's a matter of friction and fit. The 6-TPI threading kit makes a strong joint that is squeeky tight. Sure a little lube and a little use will loosen it up a bit, at the sacrifice of thread depth and holding power. The threads aren't very deep to begin with. How much seasonal wood movement do I need before it slips out or seizes up completely?

With a square thread I can make it as deep as I want, as agressive as I want and as loose as I want at the same time. The threads aren't designed to hold the screw tightly in in the vice at all times. They are designed to wedge against the walls of the thread hole only when the vice is tightened.

I've got a book called "Old-School Woodshop Accessories". It's got a very simple jig for doing spiral turnings on the table saw. I believe it should work, but I still need to figure out how to make the hole to fit.

I hadn't seen the dowels at Woodcraft. I was just going to make them on the router, but maybe I'll look at that instead.

Fair enough. :D Personal preference is just as important as function, I would never argue against that.

I think you misunderstood about the quick release. I mean't on a metal vise. I've never seen a quick release on a wooden vise.

Regarding the function of the 6 TPI screws, however, after almost a year of use of my vise with the 6 TPI screws, I can honestly say that it hasn't gotten much looser or ever bound in the threaded nut. I don't think the dried dowel stock moves all that much over the course of a year. We're only talking about 1-1/2" of material to begin with. It holds loose enough that there is just a slight bit of play between the screw and nut and it spins very freely when not wedged, as you mention. I can spin it very easily with one finger. I think if you are having trouble with the screws being tight, you may need to adjust the cutter depth on your threadbox. You need to play with this setting until you get a screw that fits to your liking. By making it cut deeper or shallower you can change the fit of the screws.

I guess I just don't want other folks to get the impression that you can't do it with the 1-1/2" threadbox kit. If personal preference dictates otherwise there is certainly nothing wrong with that. However, the 1-1/2" kit is certainly a servicable option that doesn't require and other special tools. Good luck with your vise project ;). They are certainly a lot of fun and a real conversation piece for folks that come ito the shop.

[Bill Keehn]

I thought I had seen an example or two of a quick release wooden vice in one of the workbench books, but I could be mistaken. I wasn't worried so much about the dowel stock deforming as much as the body of the vice. But I agree you can certainly make a serviceable vice with the kit.

A squeeky tight threaded joint is a good thing for most other applications, so I'm not complaining about the kit. I'm only saying it didn't give me the result I was looking for as a vice screw. Maybe I'm expecting too much, but I'm not ready to settle yet.

[David Keller NC]

Bill - If you're not able to change the depth on the bit in your threading kit (assuming you're using one like the Beall that uses a router and a point bit) to loosen up the screw/nut fit, you could loosen the final result a bit by coating the screw with loose carbide abrasive mixed with tallow (or lithium grease, your preference). It will take perhaps 10 to 20 back-and-forth screw/unscrew movements to take a small fraction off of the threads on both the screw and the nut, but it should be enough to prevent a sieze-up if the humidity goes up in your shop in the spring.

[James G. Jones]

Well I am happy to report that I now have a twin screw wood screw vise. It did take a couple of attempts to get it right, but with some great advice from Robert Rozaieski I sorted it out. Thanks, Bob for the assist. I have 18" between screws, and a 10/4 chop that is such a vast improvement over what I was working with before. I went with the woodcraft thread cutter and dowels. A big key is to advance the cutter in the thread box to allow a little looser fit than it is preset for. This allows the screws to turn much easier, but still locks down tight when tightened up. I have installed it in my assembly table / makeshift workbench while I plan out my new bench. It's late and I have no idea where my camera is, but I'll post pics later.

James

[Robert Rozaieski]

Congratulations James! Glad you got it working. Please do post some pictures when you get a chance. I'm sure a lot of us would like to see your results and perhaps you will encourage some others to give it a try. Enjoy your new vise. I love mine.

[Anchor Sarslow]

I recently purchased one of the thread kits from Woodcraft. 2 problems.
First is that I went to thread the dowel I had. It made about an inch of thread and then the brass bolt snapped. So I will have to return this and get a new one.
Second. When I did try to screw the dowel into the nut (which turned out perfectly) it was exceedingly tight.

If and when I get a new thread box and make or repair the dowel I have.. What do I have to do wo "loosen" this tight fitting nut and screw?

Should I lightly sand the threads of both? Or might I just turn it in and out till it wears down some?

[Paul Incognito]

I made a nice twin screw for my shop. I got the tap and die from Patrick Leach, it's 1-1/2" and 3 tpi. It works pretty well. I also got the dowel stock from Woodcraft.
One thing I found was that soaking the dowel in mineral oil prior to cutting the threads helped a lot.
If I remember correctly, the chop and "nut" are 8/4 white oak. The bench top is old growth douglas fir.
235092

Paul

[Jim Koepke]

If and when I get a new thread box and make or repair the dowel I have.. What do I have to do wo "loosen" this tight fitting nut and screw?

Should I lightly sand the threads of both? Or might I just turn it in and out till it wears down some?

On my thread box, the cutter can be adjusted. It might be best to cut the threads lightly on a first pass and then adjust the cutter in a bit to make the threads deeper.

Of course cut some threads in scrap dowels to get the fit how you want it.

jtk

[Salem Ganzhorn]

I made a Moxon style vise using 1 1/2" threaded at 6 TPI and I find it much too fine a pitch as well. Sure it works but I much prefer 2 TPI or so.

I started out trying to save money on vise hardware but in the end I bought the best I could afford and I don't regret it a bit!
Salem

[James Owen]

Just to flog the horse a few more times..... :D

The screws on my Moxon vice were made with the 1-1/2" thread box kit from Woodcraft.

I tested the screw box on a scrap 1-1/2" oak dowel, and when I was satisfied with the way it worked, cut the oak dowels for the screws, and then the nut portion in the vise back.

Mine was also squeaky tight, but I "solved" that problem with some Tried and True Linseed Oil & Beeswax finish. There is just enough wax to lubricate the nut and threads, without it being a dust and shavings magnet.....

So far (more than a year), there has been no problem with expansion/contraction affecting the function of the threads, and there has been no problem with slipping, ect.

Cheap, easy, effective, and a lot of fun to make....there was more than one time where I was tempted to thread some dowel, just because it is so much fun to do.....kinda like planing away on a board just for the sake of planing the wood.....


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