Disston Handsaws

[Mark Kelly]

Is it worth buying a 1940-50's saw (rip and/or crosscut?) I have read from you guys that pre WWII is the best, but this just past that.

I am looking for pre-WWII saws, but so far mostly found the above.

Thanks.

[Don Henthorn Smithville, TX]

Mark,

I bought a ten point Diston lightwight D-7 crosscut in 1947 and it is a good saw. I used it to build the sides of housetrailers (today's mobile homes) for the La Salle trailer company in Elkhart, Indiana. It is also a good saw to play. I learned to play the saw on that blade and I still use it occasionally for that purpose. Post war Diston's were good saws.

[Dave Anderson NH]

The Disstons from the 40s and the early 50s are still good saws as far as performance goes. They still were made from good steel and the blades were well shaped. The major differences are that the variety of models was greatly reduced and the handles were greatly cheapened. The result is that the saws are less comfortable to hold than the better shaped and more attractive handles of the earlier models. If you buy one of the later models the price should be very reasonable. I personally wouldn't pay more than $20-25 for a later saw, and even thane only if it was in really crispy condition. There are still a huge number of the older saws out there at attractive prices.

[James Carmichael]

If you're looking for users, you can find pre-WWII saws in your price range. The handle ergonmics are much better than the later saws. You might not be able to snag the much-sought-after 12 and 16 saws, but I own a 12 and some D8s and prefer the latter. According to analysis of the steel on the Distonian Institute website, there is no practical difference in the steel alloys used in the D8/D12/D16.

[Steve Wargo]

Not having a table saw I crosscut almost all of my stock with a D8. I paid $7 for it at a fleamarket and had it sharpened for another $8. They are very efficient. I can crosscut a 12" wide piece of mahoagny in about 30 sec. Keep in mind that I only use it for rough dimensioning. I use the Bandsaw , Back saws, and mitre plane to actually make joints. As far as a rip saw goes, I have a Garlick & Sons I purchsed from WoodCraft. It's an average saw at best, that's rarely used and about to be put on Ebay.

[Mark Kelly]

So, what do you use for a rip saw, especially sine you are getting rid of the garlick?

And what are the appropriate teeth for a crosscut vs a rip?

Thanks!

[Steve Wargo]

I Rip most everything on my Bandsaw then clean up the joint with a pass or two of an old Union #5. Smaller Rip cuts and joints I use backsaws. I think that I had the saw jointed and recut at 8 TPI. I'd have to double check to be sure.

[Mark Kelly]

How do you rip on the bandsaw with such a small table? Did you make your own outfeed table or use the roller-things?

I have used the bandsaw to rip (I also don't have a table saw) but have had a rough time keeping the longer pieces (5' or more) tight against the fence while trying to push it through.

[Steve Wargo]

I have a Laguna which has a larger table. but I also use an outbeed roller. I'm fairly large and often find myself muscling the boards around a bit. If the stock is wider than the 16" to the throat I just free hand the cut and clean it up with a plane.