Screw lube?

[Bob Johnson2]

I recently had some oak split when using pocket screws. Shortly there after I noticed in a woodworking article the author had some sort of pink goop sitting out while he/she was driving in screws. Is anyone familiar with the practice that can tell me what the goop is and what the benefit is? Does it lessen the chance of splitting?

[Joe Chritz]

It is pink goop. Yes lube helps somewhat. Good screws help a lot if you don't have them. All should have a #17 (cutting point) and be top quality. If these are pocket screws I have some crack near the edge if I am not careful. Sometimes taking it in about half way and back out helps.

Paste wax, paraffin, beeswax, nose lube, whatever works. I tend to just use whatever is handy when I need some. Last time I used any was last week or so on a clothes hamper for some tiny brass screws and I happen to have some minwax finishing wax open nearby from when I waxed the dovetail jig.

Yes nose lube is what is sounds like. Sharp threads are hard on the side of the nose so I tend to avoid this method but must admit I have used it and it does work.

Joe

[Sean Kinn]

Yep, works good in hardwoods...especially if you are driving long screws by hand. I just grab the bar of soap off of the sink.

[Kyle Kraft]

I use a brick of natural beeswax and rub the screw on it.

[Jeff Hallam]

I use a beeswax toilet ring (available at every hardware store I imagine). Works great.

[Gary Herrmann]

another vote for beeswax toilet ring

[Gene E Miller]

Greetings & Salutations,

What we used when I was a kid around Dad's shop and what I still use today a a good Ole fashion bar of Dial Soap.

Does the job every time.

Gene

[Bill White]

It will cause the screws to rust. I keep my bowl ring in the shop refrigerator.
Bill

[John Thompson]

I use Johnson's paste wax in the shop and dip the tip of screws for decks.. etc. in a jar of Vaseline or petroleum jelly outside.

Sarge..

[Frank Drew]

Bob,

What Bill is referring to is that many bar soaps are hygroscopic, they tend to absorb or attract moisture from the environment, and that can lead to rusting around the screw if it's plain steel. And maybe discoloration for other metals such as brass?

I bored a 1" or so hole in a small block of scrap wood (maybe 2"x2"x3/4"), filled the hole with beeswax, and kept the block tethered to my bench with a short length of string. I also carved out a recess in the butt end of the wood handle of my bench hammer and filled it with beeswax, so I could swipe the screw in the wax and tap it into the starter hole with the same hammer.

As for the splitting, predrilling holes for the screws eliminates a lot of that, if you're not already doing it.

[john bateman]

Rockler carries the actual stuff:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10265&filter=screw%20lube

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/53670-01-500.jpg

[Bob Johnson2]

Thanks all, I'll give the toilet ring a shot, should be a conversation peice at the least.

[Bob Rufener]

For the older generation, it might be KY Jelly.... Sorry, couldn't help that.

[Lee Schierer]

As a beekeeper, I can safely state that most beekeepers end up with an abudance of beeswax over time. Yes you can sell it but the amount of wax from one or two hives doesn't amount to much in a year. Most folks who visit it my shop get a free sample of wax. At some of the regional picnics I have given away small blocks of beeswax. See your local phone book for beekeeping supplies or county extension agent for local beekeepers, you can also buy a couple of pounds of honey at the same time to sweeten your tea or coffee..

[Rick Hubbard]

McFeelys sells something called Lloyd's Akempucky Bench Lube. It is designed specifically for lubing wood screws. Most likely it is the same stuff Rockler sells, but wouldn't you really rather have a tub of Akempucky sitting on your work bench?:cool:

Rick

[Byron Trantham]

I recently had some oak split when using pocket screws. Shortly there after I noticed in a woodworking article the author had some sort of pink goop sitting out while he/she was driving in screws. Is anyone familiar with the practice that can tell me what the goop is and what the benefit is? Does it lessen the chance of splitting?

Bob, were you using the FINE thread pocket screws? I kept coarse ones and sure enough when screwing hardwood to hardwood it would split. I finally bought a box of the #7 fine thread screws and the problem was solved. Just a thought.

byron

[Chip Lindley]

I Second Byron's Emotion!!
REAL auger-point, fine thread pockethole screws (McFeely's) should require no K-Y at all in hardwoods.

Remember, HARD is FINE!! (Couldn't help that one either!)

[Paul Demetropoulos]

I use the "Johnny Ring" as well. It's about a buck at the HD. I cut off a chunk and put it in a film canister for the tool pail.

[Fred Belknap]

I have a spray can of drylube. I open a box of screws and spray the whole bunch, easy and seems to work.

[Peter Quinn]

Ugh. These puns are harsh. I've had fine thread PHS split some sapele face frames, and I'm using the Kreg screws, not some knock off, it happens. Rarely, but it is possible. Running the screws half way in then back out seemed to help. i don't usually lube pocket screws as they don't usually split on a regular basis in most species, but when I do lube screws for hinges and such, I use a little block of beeswax, or some Johnson's past wax.

[Bob Johnson2]

I was using the Kreg fine 1 1/4". It split the away peice, on a corner, I ended up backing it off a bit and glueing / taping the split.

[Steve Griffin]

Buy good screws, drill proper pilot holes as needed and forget about the lube. I never use the stuff.

For pocket screws in certain hardwoods, that are going in close to a end cut, I use a 6" long drill bit to make a little pilot hole. But most of the time, a good pocket screw never needs a pilot hole.

-Steve