Design question

[Mark Kelly]

Still in the process of designing the shaker table from a previous thread a few weeks ago. Thinking about the drawers that will be 'housed' in the apron. Initially, I had the apron about 3" back from the table top, however, I think that is too much especially if one wants to utilize the drawer space without much interference.

So, I was thinking of making the top overhang the 'long side' with the drawers about 1 3/8". The question is, do I keep the sides of the table with a 3" overhang or is it customary to have the same overhang all around? I have drawn it out on cad (only a 2d version) and I am not sure if it looks right.

Any thoughts?

[Donnie Raines]

Not sure what Shaker table you are referring to here. I have made a few diffrent "models" of Shaker tables...some with the 3 inch over hang only to the sides.While one had the same degree of overhang all the way around.

Maybe you could provide a link to the style table you are building?

[Mark Kelly]

Here is my previous post:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=9843

[Donnie Raines]

Mark,

Oddly enough, the last Shaker table I made was this/or verryyyy similar to yours. This table did call for an over hang of 3 inchs to both sides. But only suggested 1 7/8 the front and back. I recall the demesion simply becuase it was on odd-ball number. I would share a photo of this table with you..but my camera is still boxed up(just moved).

You could cut the top to have 3 inch over hang and trim it back if you do not like the look. Though you would need to trim from both the front and back sides to keep the boards for the top centered.

If you wish to be historicaly accurate with the design the numbers above are accurate to the item I built. If you wish to add your own touch...maybe use some playwood cut to diffrent sizes and see what happens...

[Dave Richards]

Two thoughts came to mind while looking at your drawing. First, you could make drawer slides that would allow more than full extension so you could pull the drawers fully out to get at them. You could use sliding dovetails for this.

Another thought was why not make the two drawers that are back to back as one long drawer with a face on each end? Set it up so the drawer can slide either direction and if you want, put "backs" in the positions as planned to keep the contents from sliding to the opposite end of the drawer.

Awhile back the WoodSmith folks did a coffee table that had drawers set up like that. They used permanent magnets in the bottom of the drawer and the frame of the table to keep the drawers closed properly.

[Mark Kelly]

Planning on using wooden drawer slides. Easiest way, for me, and relatively inexpensive!

Never though of making on full drawer. That's a pretty neat idea. However, have to pass it by the boss to see if she likes it.

Would you happen to have the woodsmith article/issue? Perhaps I can look it up and see if their ideas for the drawers are similar. Martin Shupe mentioned a book by Norm Abram for a similar style of drawers (in my previous thread mentioned above.) I did find this book online for $4 and am incorporating his ideas for the drawer slides.

[Mark Kelly]

Wow, would I love to see a picture. Hope you get it unpacked soon! ;)

I did rearrange my aprons on the cad to nearly you said just so I could see what it looks like. I think it does make it a little better. I pulled in the sides to 2 3/4 and the front/back to 1 3/4.

With what wood did you make your table? I am going to use maple. Need it strong and tough!

[Dave Richards]

Mark, it might be WoodSmith 141 but I'll dig around this evening and see if I can find it for sure.

[Donnie Raines]

Mark,

I used curly cherry for the top and regualr cherry for the bottom.

I do like the suggestion of making a "through" drawer....that would be way cool! :cool:

[Todd Burch]

I've made a few Shaker-style end tables that have more overhang on the sides than the front/back. Do what looks good to your taste.