OK Using Festool OF1400 plunge router with Leigh D4R or Akeda?

[Sean Rainaldi]

Hi,

I’m considering either the Leigh D4R dovetail jig or the Akeda 24”. I read in another post that it's a no-no to use a plunge router on these dovetail jigs and one should instead use a light, fixed base router for dovetail jigs.

Is this also the case with the Festool Plunge?

I kind of see the festool router as being in a class by itself compared to other plunge routers, because of it’s high quality, and am wondering if the Festool quality would negate the supposed negatives of using plunge routers with dovetail jigs? Or would I need to purchase a lighter, fixed router/base combo to use for either of the above two jigs?

BTW – ot - in fiddling with dovetails for months, and doing this recent dovetail jig research, I can’t help but be reminded of the lyrics in that Beatles song, I think it’s on the White Album, the song I think is Looking Through a Glass Onion, - “Tryin to make a dovetail joint…”

That’s me lately

Thanks for any insights.

[Dave Avery]

Sean,

I use my Makita RF1101(?) with a 16" Akeda and love it. The low center of gravity is great. The Festool works very well, just not as well as the Makita. That comes from someone that believes that the Makita is the most under-rated router available. Best. Dave.

[Sean Rainaldi]

Sean,

...The Festool works very well, just not as well as the Makita

By not as well, do you mean that it's just easier to handle the Makita? Or that I won't be able to get the degree of precision in joints with the Festool compared to the Makita?

[Dave Avery]

By not as well, do you mean that it's just easier to handle the Makita? Or that I won't be able to get the degree of precision in joints with the Festool compared to the Makita?

Easier to handle - joint precision is fine. Adjusting the bit height - which is crucial - with the Festool is more time consuming but not that difficult.

[Joe Chritz]

I would only add that if you are doing through dovetails the best router is whichever you have two of.

For half blinds it doesn't matter as much, as there is only one set up. I have used a PC 690 and a Bosch 1617 in a D handle, plunge and standard base. All work fine but I now try to leave the PC set up for half blinds all the time.

Joe

[Sean Rainaldi]

Easier to handle - joint precision is fine. Adjusting the bit height - which is crucial - with the Festool is more time consuming but not that difficult.

OK Thanks Dave. I was told that the Festool could be adjusted to 1/256" increments and that it would be easy to set depth, but if not, and just a minor in convenience, I can deal with that.

The only other issue I think I remember hearing about - the festool guide bushing adapter not being concentric to the Leigh guide bushing or bit something like that. You have any problems like that?

[Sean Rainaldi]

I would only add that if you are doing through dovetails the best router is whichever you have two of.

For half blinds it doesn't matter as much, as there is only one set up. I have used a PC 690 and a Bosch 1617 in a D handle, plunge and standard base. All work fine but I now try to leave the PC set up for half blinds all the time.

Joe

Thanks Joe,

So is the only reason why many recommend to not use a Plunge router for dovetails, is because it is easier to just buy and dedicate one router for dovetails, so that you can set the bit depth, set aside the router, and only use it for dovetails, and never have to fiddle with setting the height again?

[John Morrison60]

Sean

The main reason plunge routers are less desireable for use with dovetail jigs, is their higher center of gravity and therefore a tendency to tip on the jig.
I use the Leigh super jig for dovetails. I have a Festool 1400 that I use for the bulk of my routering. However for dovetails, I have a PC 690 that I have set up for HB dovetails, and I do not want to disturb it. It is easier to move around the jig, and does a great job. I also use an old Cman router with a straight bit for the initial material removal. I did try the Festool when I was doing my original setup, but I never got comfortable with moving it around on the jig.
The main reason that I have the Festool router, is the superb dust control that it provides. With the Leigh jigs, the dust control attachment works well and therefore I use that.

I have become a believer in the "you never have enough routers" principle.

Good luck
John

[Sean Rainaldi]

Sean

The main reason plunge routers are less desireable for use with dovetail jigs, is their higher center of gravity and therefore a tendency to tip on the jig.
I use the Leigh super jig for dovetails. I have a Festool 1400 that I use for the bulk of my routering. However for dovetails, I have a PC 690 that I have set up for HB dovetails, and I do not want to disturb it. It is easier to move around the jig, and does a great job. I also use an old Cman router with a straight bit for the initial material removal. I did try the Festool when I was doing my original setup, but I never got comfortable with moving it around on the jig.
The main reason that I have the Festool router, is the superb dust control that it provides. With the Leigh jigs, the dust control attachment works well and therefore I use that.

I have become a believer in the "you never have enough routers" principle.

Good luck
John

Thanks John,

With your PC 690, are you able to get a .001 or .002 gap between your pins and tails? I can do that with my Route-R-Joint jig on my router table, but need to switch to a new jig, because I need to do wider stock.

[John Morrison60]

Sean
I have never measured them.
They are tight (possibly a little too tight) since I normally can not push them
together by hand. It takes a rap or two from a mallet to mate them.

John

[Will Blick]

John M, great post....

I am curious how many others plow the bulk of the cut with a cheap (even worn) straight bit before using the more expensive dovetail bit?

I would assume in addition to longer dovetail bit life, I would think, you will have less tear-out? Sounds like a smart strategy.

As for the concentric alignment of any router, you can buy a Concentric cone, that forces perfect concentricity... Festool makes a nice one for about $25, but only in 1/4". A few companies make them in 1/2" but can't recall them...

In addition to a routers weight balance, I will also suggest, a router with two distinct l/r handles is very helpful, as if your bit is not perfectly concentric (remember, these are $150 tools, not $1500 tools).... your ability to keep the handle axis parallel with the jig axis will assure all non concentric errors will cancel each other out. When I use a D handle jig, I have a bit less control of parallelism.... this is why Matt (Leigh Owner) likes the Bosch symmetrical wood grips on the Bosch 1617. I put one on my hit list...

http://www.toolsdirect.com/imagebase/Boschimages/Thumbnails220/1617RouterFront_B_lg.jpg?freeRez&width=220&height=220&resize=true&src=Boschimages/1617RouterFront_B_lg.jpg&noImageSrc=/images/interior/no_image_available200.gif


I also like the concept of dedicated routers.... seems a waste if you don't make a lot of dovetail joints, but it sure is convenient if you use the DT jig often... like Ron Popeel says on the Chicken Rotisserie Infomercial,

you set it, and forget it.....

[Sean Rainaldi]

Sean
I have never measured them.
They are tight (possibly a little too tight) since I normally can not push them
together by hand. It takes a rap or two from a mallet to mate them.

John

OK thanks much.

I think I will go ahead and buy the Leigh or Akeda and then try using my 1400 with it first, and if it's a pain using it, I guess an extra 100 or so bucks for another router won't break the bank.

[Mark Carlson]

I don't use my OF1400 with the Akeda. The base and bushing insert makes it hard to see what I'm doing. I use a pair of PC 690's with clear pat warner sub bases. Much much better.

~mark

[Sean Rainaldi]

I don't use my OF1400 with the Akeda. The base and bushing insert makes it hard to see what I'm doing. I use a pair of PC 690's with clear pat warner sub bases. Much much better.

~mark

So them I assume that if I was going to use my Festool 1400 with a dovetail jig, I would be better served to buy the Leigh jig - would you agree?

[Mark Carlson]

The OF1400 certainly does work with the Akeda. I fixed based $90 PC690 works better for me. Better visibility and better stability with the warner base. I've never used a Leigh jig but I bet the same is true.



~mark

[Jim Becker]

I have used my OF1010 with my D4 with no problem and don't anticipate that my OF1400 would be any different. That said, I still prefer to use my DW618 in the fixed base for this work for better balance. The reason I did use the OF1010 was to both test the accuracy of the guide bushing adapter and to eliminate the need to change the setup on the DW618 that I had configured for "something else" at that particular moment.

[Mark Tsujihara]

I use my Festool OF1400 with a Leigh Super24 with VRS and have no problems. It's very easy to adjust, and I have not had any stability or visibility problems with it.

[Charles Robertson]

I use two Fein, 1800-3&1/4 hp, plunge. Way overkill but they are relatively guiet and very smooth. Had no balance issues on an Akeda-24" If I had a set of smaller fixed base, I would have used them. Pat Warner sub bases on both Feins, recommended. Akeda-24", highly recommended. Good luck on your choice. A

[Mike Wellner]

How are the fein brand of router?

[Chip Lindley]

Always the one to look for an economical way out, instead of spending BIG BUCKS on the latest and greatest, I use two old B&D commercial (later DeWalt) 1-1/2hp routers on my D4 Leigh. They are smooth and dependable and have a rack/pinion height adjustment. Very fine adjustments can be made to the pin/tail depth. I don't have $100 in both the routers together!