Which turning tool should I use?

[Aaron Wingert]

I'm very new to turning and some of my first projects have been the wooden "pots" for turkey calls. I've made a few of them successfully but have ruined an equal amount. I'm not having any problems hollowing them out, but when forming the outside of them I'm getting some pretty ugly catches/gouges. A couple have literally blown apart from hard catches. My assumption is that the end grain is the problem.

For the outside I've been primarily using a 1/2" spindle gouge. I've also been using a 3/8" (I think) fingernail bowl gouge. I take small bites and have experimented with different speeds. I even got a catch with the roughing gouge last night. I've tried the skew chisel but that is way over my skill level at this point.

I know, I know...I need to get with an experienced turner in my area to get some direction. Unfortunately I don't know anybody that is a turner.

I'm wondering if a scraper would work any better for the end grain work to form the permimeter of the call? I don't have one yet and don't know what to buy. I'm just scared to use my gouges and feel timid when doing that part just because of the chance of a catch.

Since the interior of the call has no curves and is all flat surfaces and ledges, I'm using the parting tool to form all of that and do the hollowing. That part is going very, very well.

The calls that don't get ruined sound really great. Here's a pic to give you guys an idea of what I'm talking about. They're about 4" diameter. One is cherry and is finished. The other is glued-up zebrawood and doesn't have the calling surfaces installed.

[Aaron Wingert]

For the record, my tools are kept sharp using a slow speed grinder.

[Bob Hallowell]

you are using the correct tools, you just need practice on proper tool presentation. That being said a scraper wood also work and you can use your skew as a scraper to try it. Where do you live as there might be a member close.

Bob

[Aaron Wingert]

Thanks Bob. I live in Kansas City, on the Kansas side.

Never thought of using the skew that way!

I've managed to self-teach myself a lot of other facets of woodworking by reading and researching online over the years. But I've quickly discovered that proper turning methods are best learned in person from someone experienced...Youtube videos aren't good enough!

[Bob Hallowell]

Aaron,
Most of what I know I learned from experimenting and this forum. Once you get you will wonder why you had problems before.

Bob

[Thom Sturgill]

You generally don't use a roughing gouge for face plate work (grain running across the axis). Use your bowl gouge and attack it from the corner as if turning a bead and chase the cut across the edge that way taking light cuts. I've only been turning about 8 months myself. Go to the AAW site and see if there is a club near you. I found one and learned a lot. Books and videos just don't match personal instruction. However I find that once you know what you are looking at, the videos do help.

[David Christopher]

also make sure that the tool rest is as close as possible to the work without rubing believe it or not this helps

[Scott Conners]

First, a safety precaution - you mention getting a catch with a roughing gouge. If you mean a gouge like this:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=106774&stc=1&d=1231870239
These are actually spindle roughing gouges, though the spindle part is often left unsaid. They are unsafe to use on end grain work, as they are very aggressive and have a small weak tang. Save this tool for spindle work. Use the bowl gouge to rough out any faceplate oriented work.

As for cutting the outside of your calls, here are two cuts I'd use to help eliminate tearout. You want to have the cut be shearing the fiber at a steep angle. To do this, roll the flute of the bowl gouge almost to 3 or 9 o'clock, drop the handle low, and lead the cut slightly with the handle. The cut travels the direction of the flute. This should let the side wing of the gouge do the cutting, and the cutting edge should be close to vertical. This lets the cutting edge slice cleanly sideways through the endgrain, instead of the cutting edge hitting perpendicular to the fibers. Done right, this should produce skinny curly shavings.

The second cut to try is a shear scrape. This involves holding the gouge near horizontal, with the flute rolled to face the work. You want the top cutting edge almost touching the wood, and the bottom edge doing the cutting. The flute is completely closed against the work. Cut lightly and carefully, and don't let the gouge twist or you risk a catch. This is a light cut, not for rouhging, use it for finish cuts to get a really nice surface and to refine curvesand remove tearout after shaping.

Hopefully those decriptions are enough, I don't have a gouge here at the house to take pictures of.

[Brodie Brickey]

From the AAW Website:

http://www.woodturner.org/community/chapters/LocalChapters.asp

Even if this is a little farther afield than you want, give the president a call. They will know about the other local turning clubs in your area.


Kansas City Woodturners
Web Site: http://www.kcwoodturners.org (http://www.kcwoodturners.org/) Meetings
Meeting Location:
McCray Lumber basement, west side door.
Merriam, KS

Meeting Info: Second Monday of each month @ 7:00 PM Contact Information
Ed Bergstedt
9701 W. 67th St. Suite 100
Merriam, KS
Phone: 816-520-0935
Email: president@kcwoodturners.org General Information
Number of Members: 135
Service Info: Kansas City Metropolitan Area

[Aaron Wingert]

Thank you all for the info thus far!

Scott, good to know that I shouldn't be using the roughing gouge to make my rough-cut circles perfectly round. I cut them on the bandsaw but they still need to be trued up.

My bowl gouge is a 3/8". Is that large enough for roughing work on end grain or should I get a thicker one?

[Jack Mincey]

Hi Aaron,
I must warn you that making game calls can lead you down a dark road of addiction.:D:D I've turned turkey calls and crow calls now for 4 years and it is a lot of fun. All though I use bowl gouges on bowls and feel that I know how to use them I still use a 1/2" scraper both round nose and flat and a 1/2" scew to turn pots for my turkey calls. The pots are so small that one can sand out and tear out quickly if there is any. A sharp scraper can cut clean if used with a light touch. For the striker I prefer to use a 3/4" continental spindle gouge and a 1/2" skew for them. I use the continantal gouge and a 3/8" bowl gouge on the crow calls. I can remove a lot of wood quick with one of my old continental spindle gouges.
Good Luck and happy turning,:)
Jack

[Scott Conners]

A 3/8" gouge is fine, larger gouges work faster, but not any differently. For a call sized project a 3/8" would probably be my choice of tool as well. I do find my 1/2" is often better for smoothing larger curves and for shear cutting because it has a longer swept back edge, but that's partly the grind as well as the size.

[Aaron Wingert]

Thank you Jack (and everyone else who's taken the time to reply). Good to know about the scrapers. Since you're turning calls like me, do you burnish a hook on your scrapers or just sharpen them on the grinder and start turning.

I need to get a scraper or two!!!

[Jack Mincey]

Aaron,
I have an old craftsman grinder set up with the rest set just for my scrapers. It just takes a few seconds to touch up the edge of the scraper. I use them right off the grinder. The edge doesn't last long for a finial pass, but last a while for bringing your pot to the shape you want.
Jack