how to attach routers to plate?

[Tyler Davis]

I am finishing up the top of my router table. I bought the plain Rockler large-size aluminum plate (9"x13"x1/4"). I have two routers - a PC690 and a PC892 plunger with D-handle base. I would like to have the option to use either in the table

questions:

1. how do I attach the router bases to the underside of the table? There is a pattern of three holes on the router bases - do I match this and drill through the aluminum? How do I make sure I have the precision I need to align the threaded holes in the plate?

2. Is it possible to drill for both patterns (they are different for the 690 and the 892)?

3. I assume one of the existing holes in the plate is to allow through-table height adjustment (via allen wrench)?

4. when I cut the ledge to support the plate, do I make it 5/16" deep and then add leveling screws to the corners?

5. what do I do with the black plastic circular inserts? are these like a zero-clearance insert for a table saw?

[Doug Shepard]

... How do I make sure I have the precision I need to align the threaded holes in the plate?
...


Eagle America sells some machine screws that thread into the router holes and have a point on the opposite end. Once you have the router centered on the plate, you just give it a few taps on top to prick punch for the holes on the plate.

[Bill Huber]

I just did this for a friend.

Step one.
I used a circle cuter and cut a circle from some scrap MDF, the circle just fit into the hole in the plate. I mean it just fit, I had to tap in place but that way I knew it would stay.

Step two.
Take some screws that are the same size and thread as holds the router plate on and grind one end to a sharp point and put them in the router base. Have them just come out a little but have them all coming out the same length.

Step three.
This router had a 1/2 collet in it so I used a centering tool that was 1/2 on one end and 1/4 on the other. I put the tool in with the 1/4 sicking out of the router. I then used that to go into the 1/4 hole of my MDF circle I had in the plate.

Step four.
Make sure the router is turned the way you want it and the switch is in the position you need it to be and then press down on the router to keep it from jumping. With a small ball pein hammer tape at on the base at each screw location. I put the router on the bottom of the plate so if I scratched it, it would not show.

Step five.
With a center punch, center punch each of the holes and then with a small drill bit, drill the pilot hole.

From this point it all depends on how you are going to mount it. The one I just did, we use flat head allen screws so we drilled clearance holes and count sunk them.

If you are going to use pan heads you need to drill a flat bottom hole for them and then finish the clearance hole.

Its not hard, just take your time.

[Jeff Bratt]

I am finishing up the top of my router table. I bought the plain Rockler large-size aluminum plate (9"x13"x1/4"). I have two routers - a PC690 and a PC892 plunger with D-handle base. I would like to have the option to use either in the table

Any reason you didn't buy a plate that is drilled for at least one of your routers? Well, you'll have to drill at least one set of mounting holes...


1. how do I attach the router bases to the underside of the table? There is a pattern of three holes on the router bases - do I match this and drill through the aluminum? How do I make sure I have the precision I need to align the threaded holes in the plate?

A set of transfer punches (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=54892&cat=1,43456) is cheap and very handy for locating center-punch marks to match existing holes. You'll use these for more than just this project. The router does not have to be precisely mounted on the plate - on a router table, you adjust the fence to the bit.


2. Is it possible to drill for both patterns (they are different for the 690 and the 892)?

Sure, just make sure the routers will each mount facing a direction that is convenient. Or you could have two plates, one for each router.


3. I assume one of the existing holes in the plate is to allow through-table height adjustment (via allen wrench)?

The "extra" hole near the round cutout is for a starting pin - when routing using a piloted bit and without a fence. You will have to drill an "through-table" height adjustment hole to match your particular router base(s). The two larger threaded holes are for securing the plate to the table - although some people just let gravity do that job. That option works if the recess holds the router plate snugly - without any play.


4. when I cut the ledge to support the plate, do I make it 5/16" deep and then add leveling screws to the corners?

You could do that. Or you can fine tune the depth as you are routing the recess for a perfect fit. You can also shim the plate up using tape or other shims. I prefer a larger area of support for the router plate than just a set screw at each corner bearing on a wood or composite material. Leveling screws work better if they are bearing on a metal surface.


5. what do I do with the black plastic circular inserts? are these like a zero-clearance insert for a table saw?

They are something like zero-clearance inserts - just to keep there from being too big a hole in the table for a workpiece to dive into. Often you will have two or three, with different hole sizes in each. The cutting action of a router means that a true zero-clearance insert would be positioned in the fence. Check your router plate inserts to make sure they are perfectly flat and mount into the plate exactly even with its surface. The ones I bought did not, but I easily made my own inserts (http://home.roadrunner.com/%7Ejeffnann/WoodWorking/Shop/RouterTable/RouterPlateInserts.JPG). More of my router table pics (http://home.roadrunner.com/%7Ejeffnann/WoodWorking/Shop/Shop.html#Router_Table_) - with the same color router plate as yours!

[Greg Hines, MD]

I am finishing up the top of my router table. I bought the plain Rockler large-size aluminum plate (9"x13"x1/4"). I have two routers - a PC690 and a PC892 plunger with D-handle base. I would like to have the option to use either in the table

questions:

1. how do I attach the router bases to the underside of the table? There is a pattern of three holes on the router bases - do I match this and drill through the aluminum? How do I make sure I have the precision I need to align the threaded holes in the plate?

2. Is it possible to drill for both patterns (they are different for the 690 and the 892)?

3. I assume one of the existing holes in the plate is to allow through-table height adjustment (via allen wrench)?

4. when I cut the ledge to support the plate, do I make it 5/16" deep and then add leveling screws to the corners?

5. what do I do with the black plastic circular inserts? are these like a zero-clearance insert for a table saw?

Check your base plates. I have a 690 and an 890, and the hole pattern is identical, so I was able to replace the 690 with the 890 without any trouble. You will have to drill a pair of holes through the plate to use the above the table adjustments, but they are worth it. Your plate should have come with a starter pin for those other two holes (there are two to allow either side of the plate to face front). Some just press in, like my Rousseau plate, while others screw in.

You can certainly return the plate and get one that is predrilled for your router. That is what I am going to do when I decide to replace the phenolic plate I use now. As to supporting the plate, you can rout out a rabbet for it, or there are several different corner supports out there (I cannot recall, maybe Kreg?) that have levelers in them.

Your plate should have come with some standard sized inserts, and often, undrilled plates for specific applications where you need a zero clearance for some reason. Usually, the standard sizes are just fine. At least one of them should have a 1 1/4" hole, as that fits Porter Cable inserts.

Doc

[Tyler Davis]

you gents are a wealth of information :cool:


I didn't get the pre-drilled plate since I didn't have the 892 motor at the time

I will pick up a set of transfer punches to make sure the holes are centered. Then I guess I need a tap to make the threads? Or can you get self-tapping screws that will thread into aluminum?

I may buy an extra fixed base of the 892 so I can leave the base in the table when I take the motor out for handheld routing.

[Jeff Bratt]

Or can you get self-tapping screws that will thread into aluminum?

I may buy an extra fixed base of the 892 so I can leave the base in the table when I take the motor out for handheld routing.


The threaded holes are already in your router base. The mounting holes in the router plate are not tapped. The mounting bolts are flat-head screws, and are countersunk into the top of router plate. An extra fixed base - no handles needed - permanently mounted in the router table is definitely the way to go for a "removable motor" style of router.

[john bateman]

I am finishing up the top of my router table. I bought the plain Rockler large-size aluminum plate (9"x13"x1/4"). I have two routers - a PC690 and a PC892 plunger with D-handle base. I would like to have the option to use either in the table

questions:

1. how do I attach the router bases to the underside of the table? There is a pattern of three holes on the router bases - do I match this and drill through the aluminum? How do I make sure I have the precision I need to align the threaded holes in the plate?



You can tape the plastic router baseplate to the aluminum one, then use a VIX bit (self centering bit) to drill the holes in the aluminum.

[Brian D Anderson]

Here . . . some pictures may help. Definitely use the plastic base as a guide for your hole locations.

Here's what yours will hopefully look like:

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/28246-01-500.jpg

Here's what mine looked like after I had my machine shop here do the holes for me (I didn't have a drill press at the time):
http://www.jfreitasphotography.com/Temp/IMG_6619.jpg

I have the Triton router which has 4 mounting screws and the hole in the foreground is for the above table height adjuster. All you'll need to do is drill your 3 holes and countersink them. Just make sure you countersink them enough so the heads don't stick up above the table. I had to countersink mine a little further since the heads were flush with the table, but stuck up just a little bit.

For the levelling, I remember seeing these corner braces that you use with a full cutout. Or in other words, you don't make a shelf . . . you cut all the way through. Though, for the life of me, I can't find them. I swear they were on the cover of a recent Rockler, or Woodcraft magazine. But I can't find them. I've been thinking of making a new table using them.

edit: Found them. Kreg Precision router insert plate levelers. http://www.kregtool.com/products/prs/product.php?PRODUCT_ID=98

-Brian

[Myk Rian]

You don't need transfer punches. The best way is use screws like Bill Huber said. Cut the head off, chuck it in the drill press, and file a point on. Screw them into the base and put a 1/4" ID brass guide in the insert plate. With a 1/4" rod or a centering tool in the router, get it centered and tap on the screws to indent the drill holes.

[Drew Eckhardt]

The router does not have to be precisely mounted on the plate - on a router table, you adjust the fence to the bit.


Unless you want to use a guide busing in the router table.

[Jeff Bratt]

Unless you want to use a guide bushing in the router table.

You are correct - I hadn't allowed for that possibility. Then you would also have to make sure the guide bushing mounting recess is centered precisely in the router/insert plate. I generally use a flush trim bit for template routing...

[Steve Clardy]

I also got the blank plates from Rockler a number of years back.

I just positioned the router where I wanted it on the bottom of the plate.

Made a few marks on the plate with a black markie.

Removed the sub base from the router, clamped it in position, and drilled the appropriate sized holes through the plate with the sub base in place.
Then just counter sunk the holes till the mounting screws were below flush just a few thousands.

No need for centering pins and all that stuff.