new old #3 stanley/baley

[Ron Petley]

I came across some old tools, lots of axes that looked really cool.
They also had a #3 and a #5 2/5, I jumped on the #3 ( I have wanted on of these for a while) it has a broken tote that had tape on it, and the regulation dust and crud. I can glue the tote it looks like some nice wood color in the tote but it is darkened by the old tape glue. Blade looks a little thin, but I have some others. The Japaning looks to be intact. Looking at the set of tools the owner seemed to know what he was doing and the tools look used but not miss treated. I forgot to get a photo of the bottom and mouth, but it looks good. This is my first made in USA plane all the other ones are made in Canada. So despite the negative comments I think it will come out to be a great addition to the team.
After reading the 5 1/2 thread below, I think I will go back and see it it is still there, it was also a good price $20.00.
It will be fun to dig down through the layers and see exactly what is their.
I will post the after photo.
Cheers Ron.
106597

106598

[Johnny Kleso]

That looks like a Type 14 kind of rare for bench planes as it was only made for a year or two..

Sound be a nice plane when tuned...

I collect them and pay $60 or a No.3C like yours with good wood..

[Ron Petley]

Johnny:
How would you tell if it was a Type 14 and or a No. 3c ? I do not see any more numbers on it other than what I mentioned.
Cheers Ron.

[Ron Petley]

This is what I could find about the Type 14 which it seems to have:
Type 14. Planes made by Stanley 1929-1930.

All of the features of the previous, except:

"MADE IN U.S.A." is now cast into the bed at the toe.
A raised ring is cast into the bed to act as a receiver for the knob. This is to stem the splitting of the knob, about its base, which was a very common thing to occur. The high knobs were very prone to this, prior to the introduction of the raised ring, due to the greater leverage capable of being placed on them than could be placed on the low knobs.
Cheers Ron.

[Mike Cutler]

Ron

I think it's going to be just fine with an afternoons work,and that tote can always be remade, or replaced.
I have a #3C, Type 18, I picked up a few months back for 3 bucks, and the markings on yours pre-date mine.
I'd take Johnny's word for it on being a type 14, or maybe 13.

[Phillip Pattee]

That looks like it will clean up nicely. It should be a great user for you. If you decide to make a new tote, here is a great tutorial done by Clint Jones. It's practically fool proof. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=71658&highlight=tote+tutorial

[Johnny Kleso]

Its either a T14 or T15

If it has a Patent date cast into the body just infront of the rear handle its a T14 if it doesnt its a T15 which is also a favorite of mine and also made for a few short years 1931-1932

The C is for if the bottom sole has ribs or corragated..

Check the side /cheeks (humps) for cracks as I have found T14s to crack here very often..

Check my Type Study page at My Website by clicking on my Name above..

[Ron Petley]

Thanks for the info, nice to know, moot point I guess as I am going to use it.
No patent date, no cracks. So T15 it is
Thanks for the tote link, I will clean it up and glue the tote if it does not go well I will make another on.
Thanks again I will post the after photo, might take a while though. Johnny, I have looked at your site many times, I always think of it as Rex Mill, great info.
Cheers Ron.

[Jim Koepke]

I have had good luck gluing totes with epoxy.

I save scraps of rosewood. When gluing totes or knobs I can make a little saw dust to mix with the epoxy. Sometimes I have had to make a shim to fill a void. After a few times, you'll be able to glue a tote and have trouble finding your repair.

jim

[Jim Koepke]

Good luck on getting the 5-1/2.

It is a good plane to have.

Heck, almost all of them are.

jim

[Ron Petley]

I went back and looked at the 51/2 but it looked newish and had a Record blade in it, so I passed on it. I did however get a Record 041/2 it had the heft and was about as wide as the 5 1/2 but much shorter, looked like something I could use. I have a record 4 as well and have used it a lot before I got the Stanley bug from this forum. The Record was $10 and looked like it was not really used. The record has the Stanley blade in it, must have got switched, and nobody noticed it, so I switched them back so they were more as they should be.

I took the #3 plane apart and the blade to my surprise is a swear heart! Made in Canada. Someone did hammer the top some, but I figured I would leave it as is. It is always a mind bender to see what people will do to tools!
I have this other blade I was thinking of using before I took the plane apart.
It is a Union Mfg. Co. New Britain 01 USA ( which I think is 01 steel) . I bought this blade a while back for $1.
I guess I could sharpen them both up and try them out and see which I like, and have a back up blade.
Any idea of the quality of the Union Mfg. Co. New Britain 01 USA?
Here is a photo of both blades the Union is the thicker one.
Cheers Ron.
106676

106677

[Jim Koepke]

The Union blades are thicker, but you may want to try it on the plane first. My experience with one was the slot was too narrow for the lateral adjuster. YMMV

I think the mark on your blade dates it to before 1917, Not sure though.

Record and Stanley have been intertwined throughout the years. Not sure if they are under the same ownership now or ever.

jim

[Marcus Ward]

Go back and get the 5 1/2, they're rare in the wild and if it's cheap who cares about the blade, get a replacement. I love my #X 1/2 planes.

[Ron Petley]

Thanks again for the advice, I can still get the 5 1/2 nobody seems to want it. Cheers Ron.

[Mike Cutler]

Listen to Marcus, and get the 5 1/2. It wouldn't still be available if I was around.;)

An ignorant question here, ignorant meaning without knowledge, did Stanley actually produce the Sweetheart in Canada? I see the "Made in CAN " on the blade.

[Ron Petley]

OK, OK I will get the 5 1/2 even though it is a newer one, AND if I do not use it after cleaning up one of you guys will have to take it off my hands for COST, deal? For now I bow to your wisdom, and thaks for giving it.
That Sweetheart blade is the firt one I have owned, so Made in Canada I would not have a clue about, but hey i am in Canada, I have some Bailey's made in CAnada.
The whole thing in in little pieces soaking in a citric acid bath, about half done. Also I am begining to wonder why I am the only woodworker who never uses his planes while painting? Or uses his planes to paint with.:confused: Am I doing something wrong?
cheers Ron

[Marcus Ward]

If you don't use it, I will take it off your hands. Gladly.

I think the key with the paint is to leave your planes lying about while painting. Definitely right under whatever you're painting, perhaps to hold the drop cloth.

[Ron Petley]

Thanks for the push, I phoned today and they are holding the 5 1/2 until I can pick it up. Cheers Ron.

[Jim Koepke]

In the old days, planes may have been laying around from smoothing some trim work before it was painted.

I hope they weren't used to scrape paint.

jim

[Bill Houghton]

Also I am begining to wonder why I am the only woodworker who never uses his planes while painting? Or uses his planes to paint with.:confused: Am I doing something wrong?

The presence of paint can be valuable in tracing plane provenance. For instance, I have a Stanley 78 that, based on the evidence - pink paint splatters - was used by the maintenance mechanic in a Barbie factory.

[Ron Petley]

The 5 1/2 is in the house!
The #3 is well on its way to being done. The blade needs a new bevel. It is very light wood under all that gunk, it has a good layer of tape glue on it from tape on the break.
So what sort of finish is used on these things?
I was thinking wax but it does not last for me, I have some gunstock finish that goes the distance. Photos still pending.
Cheers Ron.

[Marcus Ward]

I always use shellac and wax on mine. Gunstock finish (TruOil?) probaby would be fine too.