Easy Rougher - Worth the $$ ?

[Jess Wetherhold]

Wondering if anyone has this or has heard anything about it (http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Turning_Tools___Special_Purpose_Tools___Easy_Rough er___easy_rougher?Args=). Does it really save time? How long does the cutter last? I have a few gift certificates burning a hole in my pocket.
Thanks-
Jess
106592

[Bernie Weishapl]

I heard about it and saw it in action at Richmond. I figure I am not in that big of a hurry rough bowls so my bowl gouge does just fine. Still have the money in my pocket.

[Bob Hamilton]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=101199

[M Toupin]

It'll tear off 1/2" cuts so fast the chips hurt and significantly increases the speed I can rough out a bowl. I really do not enjoy roughing an out of round blank and anything that gets it done quicker is good in my book. As far as the longevity of the cutter, I've only done a couple of bowls to date but there's no sign of dulling.

Mike

[George Clark]

Jess,

I just finished roughing a 10" green walnut bowl and used the Easy Rougher for 90% if the work. I think it is a fantastic tool. It has a very short learning curve and works exactly as advertised. The cutting edge lasts a through many bowls; I don't know how many because I'm still using the one that came with it and replacements aren't too expensive. Stu in Tokyo has some good videos using the Easy Rougher on YouTube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbBYIsYVLXA&feature=channel

As to whether or not it's worth the cost, only you and your wallet can decide that. What's expensive to me may seem a bargain to others. I can verify that it's a quality tool.

George

[Frank Townend]

I love mine and use it more that I should. Making a quick tenon, remove 90% of the interior of a bowl, you name it. I am exceptionally pleased with mine.

It really does remove a lot of wood in a very short time, and the wood coming off your lathe is really hot. I wear a glove to keep myself from getting burned.

[Dan Forman]

I made my own for under $15. 1/2" square steel bar and a spare Byrd Shelix carbide cutter. Works great, though I've only used it on spindle stuff so far, but you can turn a blank into a cylinder in seconds.

I did buy the plastic chip deflector from CSUSA, and it's nice to have. There are several threads about this over on the IAP pen turners website, in the tools and shops forum. The key to rapid stock removal is to have somewhere in the neighborhood of a 25 - 30 degree bevel on the cutter. Most carbide cutters for metal work have a much shallower angle. The cutters for jointer or planer heads are much faster for roughing out purposes. Other folks have used the Grizzly cutter heads with good success.

Dan

[Jim Kountz]

It'll tear off 1/2" cuts so fast the chips hurt and significantly increases the speed I can rough out a bowl. I really do not enjoy roughing an out of round blank and anything that gets it done quicker is good in my book. As far as the longevity of the cutter, I've only done a couple of bowls to date but there's no sign of dulling.

Mike

Mike whats your lathe?

[Jess Wetherhold]

Sounds like I'm sold :D
George- thanks for the link. It was very helpful since I never remember to search youtube.
A lot of talk about lathe power though. Do you think my Jet 16x42 1 1/2hp 115V will do the trick?

[Tom Lewis]

I made my own using a 5/8 piece of mild steel and the Easy Rougher carbide cutter. It is a real time saver. I have used it on maybe thirty bowls of Osage Orange, Ash and English Walnut and am still using the same cutting side.
I would highly recomend getting or making the shield. The Easy Rougher throws shavings right back in your face and over your head.
Another thing about it is if you use a bowl gouge to true a out of round bowl blank by holding the gouge at a 45 degree angle the out of round piece drives the gouge back at you every time the high side comes around. On the other hand, The Easy Rougher sits straight (Horizontal) on the tool rest and all the out of round force is directed straight down on the tool rest and not back at the turner.
Most new tools I try don't live up to the advertisement, but the Easy Rougher is a pleasant supprise.

[Bill Bolen]

I've had it close to a year now and use it all the time. Finally rotated the cutter after about 20 bowls and even more boxes. Really reduces time roughing out and it puts a super finished cut on the flat bottom of boxes. Guess you can tell I am beyond happy with it. And Craig is a superior tool vendor to boot...Bill...

[Tom Lewis]

Picture of my homemade Easy Rougher

[John Frigillana]

;) I got mine right after Thankgiving and made a Koa handle for it . I used it several times and the cutter is still sharp.

[M Toupin]

Mike whats your lathe?
Delta 1460 w/a 2hp/3ph & VFD. With the proper belt ratio and VFD it doesn't slow down for anything:D

[Jess Wetherhold]

I figured that I would go ahead and order a replacement cutter to save on shipping later and I see that it comes with the crowned cutter. Is there an advantage having the crowned vs the square cutter?

[Frank Townend]

I use the crowned for outside work, kinda like a scraper. For the inside the straight edge doesn't really make that much of a difference. If I was ordering, I'd buy the Crowned, 4" Radius as it is the most versatile.

On the site he suggests:

"The same Ci1 accepts either the crowned insert or square insert. The crowned insert excels at spindle roughing and finishing and working inside bowls. Choose the square insert for cutting square shoulders such as tenons on bowls and spindle work. For maximum efficiency have a tool for each insert."

[Jess Wetherhold]

It's ordered! I am excited so thank you everyone for your input.
Jess

[Derek Hansen]

For all you guys who made your own, where did you get the supplies and what tools did you need? I would like to make one of these but I don't have any metalworking equipment.

[Frank Townend]

I didn't make mine, I bought it, but tool steel is available everywhere, and the Grizzly jointer knife inserts (http://grizzly.com/products/Replacement-Inserts-for-G0677-10-pack/T20796) can be used as cutters. Turn your own handle.

You will need to drill and tap the end of the tool steel to hold the cutter.

[M Toupin]

I made mine from 1/2" square stainless steel, though you could use cold rolled steel just as well.. All you need is a drill and taps. for the screw.

I did buy the cutter from easy wood tools. There is a definite difference between planner/jointer inserts and Craig's cutters. The CI1 cutters have a different geometry and cut much better.

Mike

[Jim Kountz]

I made mine from 1/2" square stainless steel, though you could use cold rolled steel just as well.. All you need is a drill and taps. for the screw.

I did buy the cutter from easy wood tools. There is a definite difference between planner/jointer inserts and Craig's cutters. The CI1 cutters have a different geometry and cut much better.

Mike

Mike you didnt have to grind the small "step" that the cutter sits on or the bevel right under the cutter? If not that would be great and a huge time saver if all you have to do is drill and tap!!

[M Toupin]

Mike you didnt have to grind the small "step" that the cutter sits on or the bevel right under the cutter? If not that would be great and a huge time saver if all you have to do is drill and tap!!

I made the step, I think it helps keep the cutter from twisting. I don't know for sure, but it's easy to do. Drill and tap the hole and then attach your cutter. then make a line even with the back edge of the cutter. Use a hacksaw to cut the back edge square and then use a grinder to remove the remaining material. Use a file if you need to clean things up.

I find a pull cut using the side of the cutter works great for removing large bites, especially when roughing. If the blank isn't too far out of round you can sometimes get it round with only a couple of good pull cuts!

Mike

[Dan Forman]

I didn't step mine into the bar and it works fine. It's just a little tricky getting it set in position when tightening the screw, as you have to allow for a little twisting of the cutter as it tightens. Not bad though. I thing you could put a little of the epoxy weld putty stuff behind the cutter once its set in position, which would help aligning it the next time. I did buy the chip deflector from CSUSA.

Dan

[Jess Wetherhold]

I got it in and can't stop turning. I LOVE IT! Jeeze, what a time saver and it's fun too.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Thanks for the info on making my own! I love this site. I just ordered a set of cutters fron Griz. Pack of 10, 30 bucks. Lifetime supply. I went to the local HD and got a 1/2" bolt 7" long. Buck and change, compared to several bucks for square stock. Granted, the squares stock is longer, but I can't think what to do with the extra. I THINK, having a round shaft may be a little more versatile than a square shaft. Can change the cutting angle easily. May be a problem though, I don't know. 3 or 4 bucks for the maple handle blank. Tool total cost is less than 10 bucks......:)

[Dan Forman]

Thanks for the info on making my own! I love this site. I just ordered a set of cutters fron Griz. Pack of 10, 30 bucks. Lifetime supply. I went to the local HD and got a 1/2" bolt 7" long. Buck and change, compared to several bucks for square stock. Granted, the squares stock is longer, but I can't think what to do with the extra. I THINK, having a round shaft may be a little more versatile than a square shaft. Can change the cutting angle easily. May be a problem though, I don't know. 3 or 4 bucks for the maple handle blank. Tool total cost is less than 10 bucks......:)

I find the square bar to be an advantage in maintaining the position of the cutter. For roughing cuts, you want to keep the cutter parallel with the turning axis. I suspect a round shaft will want to torque on you. Since it's so cheap, try both.

Dan

[Frank Townend]

I went to the local HD and got a 1/2" bolt 7" long.

I'm with Dan on square stock. This tool cuts deep and fast and you don't want it getting away from you. I buy metal stock from Speedy Metals (http://www.speedymetals.com/default.aspx), either their Web site or their store on eBay.

[Richard Madison]

Do NOT use tool steel. As mentioned by several others, ordinary mild steel or cold rolled stock is preferable, easy to drill and tap.

[Maylon Harvey]

Thanks for the info on making my own! I love this site. I just ordered a set of cutters fron Griz. Pack of 10, 30 bucks. Lifetime supply. I went to the local HD and got a 1/2" bolt 7" long. Buck and change, compared to several bucks for square stock. Granted, the squares stock is longer, but I can't think what to do with the extra. I THINK, having a round shaft may be a little more versatile than a square shaft. Can change the cutting angle easily. May be a problem though, I don't know. 3 or 4 bucks for the maple handle blank. Tool total cost is less than 10 bucks......:)
Kyle,
Get the square stock. I made mine out of 1/2" round and it twists or tourques. Fortunately I have a milling machine and was able to machine the bottom flat. Works much better.

[steve johnson]

Check out Cap'n Eddie. He sell similar tools for much less. http://eddiecastelin.com/products_and_services

[James Combs]

I made my own for under $15. 1/2" square steel bar and a spare Byrd Shelix carbide cutter. Works great, though I've only used it on spindle stuff so far, but you can turn a blank into a cylinder in seconds.
I did buy the plastic chip deflector from CSUSA, and it's nice to have. There are several threads about this over on the IAP pen turners website, in the tools and shops forum. The key to rapid stock removal is to have somewhere in the neighborhood of a 25 - 30 degree bevel on the cutter. Most carbide cutters for metal work have a much shallower angle. The cutters for jointer or planer heads are much faster for roughing out purposes. Other folks have used the Grizzly cutter heads with good success.
Dan
What Dan said, except I didn't go for a shield. I get my cutters here (http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/carbide-insert-knives.html), the 11th one down the page, at $2.61 per cutter don't see how you can beat it even as someone mentioned the EW cutters cut a little better(not my experience though, I can't tell the difference).

[Ron Borowicz]

You can also sharpen your cutters...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBgbhG373LE
I also sharpen them on the side of my Tormek grindstone.

[Dok Yager]

Jesse: I haven`t used an "Easy Cutter" however I do have several carbide cutters. I got mine from Harrison Tools "no affiliation" and I have one of his handles and one of Thompsons handles. I like both for different stages. The Thompson handle is counterweighted so it works great for roughing and doesn`t wear you out. Where as the Harrison has a foam around the handle that works well for finishing work. I have the square, round and the star cutters and they are all great pieces.

[charlie knighton]

one of the raffle prizes at the Virginia Woodturning Symposium in September will be Mid size easy hollower #1 thanks to Easy Wood Tools for the donation

http://www.virginiawoodturners.com/

[David C. Roseman]

The Easy Rougher is especially nice on green bowl blanks for hogging off material fast. Here's another source for replacement cutters, for less than $2 each. Work just fine for me. They don't cut quite as cleanly as a fresh EWT cutter, but it's very close. And, hey, it's a roughing tool. :)

http://www.pmctool.com/product.php?productID=2250

David

[Dale Gillaspy]

Jess, I've had mine since Craig and Donna were a very small company. I think it is a great tool, and great people to work with. My preference is the R4, which has a slight crown. You can still come close to doing very square cuts with it, but the slight crown minimizes corner dig ins when you really don't want them.

[Stan Smith]

The Easy Rougher is especially nice on green bowl blanks for hogging off material fast. Here's another source for replacement cutters, for less than $2 each. Work just fine for me. They don't cut quite as cleanly as a fresh EWT cutter, but it's very close. And, hey, it's a roughing tool. :)

http://www.pmctool.com/product.php?productID=2250

David

Oops. They are not accepting orders, but is sure was a fantastic price. I paid $16 for just one from another source.

[Stan Smith]

What Dan said, except I didn't go for a shield. I get my cutters here (http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/carbide-insert-knives.html), the 11th one down the page, at $2.61 per cutter don't see how you can beat it even as someone mentioned the EW cutters cut a little better(not my experience though, I can't tell the difference).

This is really great info from James and Dan. I'm going to give it a try for my Harrison SR and pen SR. Wish I would have known about this a couple of weeks ago since I bought a couple of replacements for a considerably higher price. I wish I had the knowledge and setup of to make my own tools. Harrison tools are excellent quality though and I made my own handles since I want shorter than what Harrison's interchangeable handle is. I'm going to order the byrd Shelix cutters for that great price. I will also sharpen my own on a diamond stone since it is so easy to do.

Even though I have the Harrison tools, I still use the Easy Tool rougher and also their smaller starter tools (the detailer and round tools) since they are smaller and good for the very fine work. I like the radius cutters, even for roughing, on spindle or fine work because I have a tendency of not keeping the square cutter exactly flush with the blank at all times and drag the corners. This is because I get sloppy and am not fully concentrating on what I'm doing every second. Yeah, I know......

[John Grace]

I have several of the Easy Wood Tools and they're quite good. Appreciate some will say that traditional tools are better and perhaps they leave a smoother finish that the EWT's, but that said, I've been turning with them for several years and not found anything they cannot do.

Cutter head longevity is a subjective mix of length of use, hardness of the wood, etc. There are several 'after market' providers that supply your cutters at a fraction of what EWT charges. Additionally, recommend you purchase an inexpensive 'diamond hone'. Several quick passes over the hone and you've 'freshened' the edge sufficiently to prolong the cutter.

Hope this helps...thanks, John

[Stan Smith]

@John. I'm not sure why we seem to come up with this "1 is better than the other" stuff. Of course there's personal preference, but that doesn't mean that invalidates tools that we don't use but others do. Just to clarify, I'm not saying that's what you were saying in your post either, John. I recently sold some lathe chisels. Most were for particular uses. I just was no longer using them John has obviously learned to use the Easy Wood tools to his satisfaction and enjoyment. I'm still learning some on both the Easy Tools and Harrison Tools and my main problem has been dragging the square corners. I've now switched to cutters with radius and that has made a big improvement with them for me. I still use my "traditional" tools and I enjoy working with them also. We are really fortunate that we have so many choices, IMO

stan

[Stan Smith]

Sorry I got a little carried away on my last post.

Just want to let everyone know that I got a pack of 10 cutters from here: http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/carbide-insert-knives.html

They fit my Harrison rougher tools just fine--both the long shaft and the pen shaft. This a great source and fast shipping. Many thanks for the tip.

[allen long]

Any thoughts on the Titan inserts (just above the Byrd inserts) on the website. I am thinking the radiused corners as well as the radiused main edges may help from catching the corners on you turning.


Many Kind Regards . . . Allen

[Stan Smith]

Any thoughts on the Titan inserts (just above the Byrd inserts) on the website. I am thinking the radiused corners as well as the radiused main edges may help from catching the corners on you turning.


Many Kind Regards . . . Allen

No, Allen, I had not even thought of that. I bought on the basis of what others said about their success with them. Actually, they barely fit my Harrison tools, but they work fine. The Easy Tool rougher, that I have, has a smaller cutting head and the cutter is much smaller. I think that I have their pen rougher. I actually like it being smaller for very fine cutting on pens. I think that I have plenty of cutters for some time now. I'll probably try those Titan inserts next time. Thanks for pointing them out, Allen.

[Jerry Toschlog]

I just bought one used here on SMC, I received it just last Sat and used it last Sunday. WOW that sucker took out wood, I did have a few catches but it was my first time using it. I really like it ... WARNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have a habit that until last Sunday did not even realize.. When I get done with a tool mainly a gouge I pull it through my hand to remove shavings before placing it back into the tool holder. YEP, I instinctly did just that with the easy rougher. Well the carbide blade sticks out farther than the shaft unlike most tools. OUCH!!!!! I Got a few cuts on my left ring and pinky finger.

[Stan Smith]

I only cut myself once, Jerry. I read a post somewhere where this guy took an old paint brush and cut off part of the bristles. He then attached some rare earth magnets and stuck it on his lathe. That's what I did, too, although I just bought a cheapo brush at HF. I have a Jet lathe and stuck the brush on the underside of the frame with just the bristles sticking out. I just wipe the tool on the bristles when needed. No more cuts.

[Reed Gray]

I still don't know what all the fuss is about...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKdqiAc0jx4

robo hippy

[Stan Smith]

What "fuss" are you referring to?

[Reed Gray]

The fuss I am referring to is all the excitement about this tool. As some one who used scrapers a lot, I just can't understand it. They are scrapers, nothing more, nothing less. Even having a hardened metal for the cutting part is nothing new. The Big Ugly tool is the name of a tool that has been used by the Oregon coastal Mrytle wood turners for so long, that no one remembers who first came up with the name. You take cold rolled bar stock, silver solder some tantung (cast metal, almost as hard as carbide) to the end of it, and turn with it. They would sharpen in the morning, turn till lunch, then after lunch, sharpen again, and turn till beer thirty. Stellite is another similar hardened metal that works almost identically, and is used on some bandsaw blades, and the Woodcut bowl coring system. There is no cut that can be done with this type of tool that I can't do with standard scrapers, and no special treatment is needed for sharpening. Maybe this 'rediscovery' of scrapers is a good thing. They are good tools, and have a lot of uses. I tried one once, and yes, they do work, but no better than a standard scraper.

robo hippy

[Stan Smith]

@ robo hippy. Thanks for the clarification. Now I understand where you are coming from. I think the OP was asking for opinions of the Easy Tools rougher. I may be wrong, but I think that the carbide tipped tools have been marketed more by the large online sellers as "new". I'm sure you've seen how "new" things get "hyped" in the media/marketplace.
Yeah, scrapers have been around a long time. I've had some for years including a bedan and berger tools. I guess for some of us, the replacement cutters are new. I watched your video and you turned a nice bowl using a scraper. Please keep in mind that some of us do not have lathes and tools the size of yours. I have a mini lathe and can only turn small stuff. I mostly turn pens and smaller tools work well for me at my ability level and eyesight. I'm still setting up a recently purchased midi lathe, but it's still considerably smaller than the lathe in your video. I don't know if I would use the word "excitement" to describe my feeling when I first saw the Easy Tools though. I did think that they would work well for pen turning and they do. Kerry Harrison (Harrison Specialties) has done a video showing how their tools are used to turn a bowl using some techniques similar to yours. Personally, even though you can really hog out a lot of material very fast with a scraper tool, I still like to use my gouges, too. I really like to use a scraper to bring things into round, though. YMMV.

[Reed Gray]

I picked up scrapers a number of years back. I knew that there were a small number of turners who used them almost exclusively for every thing they turned. When they were done with their projects, they looked as good as anything I turned. What did they know that I didn't. This is what got me to my current skill level with them. There was, and probably is to some extent, a 'only use scrapers when you have to' philosophy among turners, which means use gouges for everything. I consider the scrapers to be 'forgotten' tools, and they out perform gouges in some areas. While I don't do pens, I have been told that you can't do some of the acrylic and resin compound pen parts with gouges, and a scraper is needed. They do have multiple uses.

robo hippy

[Stan Smith]

I joined a woodworkers club when I began wood working. It was guys in the club that got me interested in turning and that's almost exclusively what they did. Everything was gouges with little mention of scrapers. Skews were used though. One factor that might be making these carbide tips popular is the sharpening. I used to have and use the Wolverine jig. Then I started doing a lot of carving and got a Carver Sharp. It's a belt sander that goes at 1750 rpms. It has pull outs similar to the wolverine and also a leather strop belt. That's what I use for all sharpening now. Not for the carbine cutters though. I saw a video showing just turn 'em upside down and do 6 strokes on a diamond stone. No more excuses for using dull tools. I can and do sharpen my scrapers on the Carver Sharp. I bought a little Veritas adjustable angle platform for the scrapers and my hand plane blades which does the job for me. I'm thinking that perhaps ease of sharpening may contribute to the popularity of the carbide cutter tools. However, once you learn how to sharpen, by hand or machine, it really doesn't take that much time, IMO. I do not do any acrylic pens at all. I like wood so that's all that I use. I've been fortunate that friends have given me some nice exotic wood scraps for pens and of course they and their wives get pens from me. :)