To Boil or Not to Boil

[Christopher K. Hartley]

As many of the old timers here know the topic of "Green Bowl Drying" has come up a number of times. Most of the discussion favored the DNA method and one which I have used and still use to some degree. I had always wondered about the Boiling and "Soap Soak" methods and did not tune them out, but just did not understand them fully. I am still not a big proponent of the "Soap Soak" as my efforts there have been less than desirable. After Meeting Steve Russell a long time production turner, I became more acquainted with the "Green Bowl Drying" method and would like to share Steve's info about it with you. The biggest complaint I had heard about regarding Boiling was that of wood color loss. After seeing Steve's work and understanding the process better, it just simply is not an issue. Just like we use a variety of tools for our turning an extra drying method could well be of benefit to many. For those interested here is a link to Steve's site and the article. It is more than worth consideration. Hope it helps some. http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/boiling-green-wood.html :)

[Jim Kountz]

Very interesting read, I have been researching the various methods of drying bowls after roughing and this one keeps coming up along with the DNA method. I would love to have a small kiln and am thinking of building one but the actual process of kiln drying bowl blanks is still somewhat of a mystery to me. Thanks for posting this Chris, it was a very worthwhile read!!

[Dave Ogren]

Chris,

Thanks, very interesting reading. Another subject that I wish I knew a lot more about. It would be great if there was a list of which way was the fastest, best, cheapest, and on and on but I guess that would change with the wood type and the inclusions etc. Thanks again, Chris, I really appreciate it.

Dave Ogren

[Ken Fitzgerald]

This is just my humble opinion. Like many things in woodworking and turning I think you have to find what works well for you.

The best local turner I know personally...uses nothing. He says he thinks the individual piece of wood has a lot to do with it. He cuts his wood in the winter and is very selective.

I know others that have tried boiling, DNA and nothing.

Find what works well for you and stick with it.

The local realitive humidity has a lot to do with the rate at which the wood dries. Our average annual moisture is 12". 2 inches less and we would be a desert. I would expect you would have to use a different method here than say in the southern portion of the US or say the coastal area of Oregon and Washington in the Pacific Northwest.

Find what works for you and stick with it. Don't be afraid to try something new on occasion.

[Reed Gray]

Maybe I will have to try a twice turned bowl.
robo hippy

[Bernie Weishapl]

Chris I have been reading Steve's site for some time and subscribe to his lathe talk. Lots of good info.

I do agree with Ken that you should use what works for you. I prefer using DNA. It has worked well for me and have a lot of success with it. I have tried the soap method and from what I have found was about the only thing it did for me was making sanding a little easier. I also cut most of my wood in the winter when the sap is down and feel this helps with the drying and warping.

I have talked with Steve about trying to use a Microwave to dry wood.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Thanks for all the info Chris! Always nice to find additional methods that work for drying!

[Richard Madison]

Intuitively it seems likely that boiling does indeed reduce defects by relieving stresses present in the still green wood. It is reasonable to assume that it works in somewhat the same way as steaming wood to make it flexible prior to bending. In fact steaming of rough turnings might be more effective than boiling, but I know of no one who has tried this.

Unfortunately the equipment required for boiling bowls of 10-12" diameter (big pot and big fire) is not available to most of us, so the question remains somewhat academic.

[Gary Max]

I also think a lot of it has to do with how many pieces are you turning a year.

[Tom Collins]

I use one of those turkey fryer pots that were so popular a few years ago. It is 12" diameter so it will hold anything I make. During the sumer I use the propane burner to heat the water. All of the pieces do not need to be submerged. What is above water level is "steamed". Now that the woodstove is going I just set the pot with water on top of the woodstove and throw the bowls in. It doesn't boil but I just leave it sit there overnight or longer. I also just throw roughed out bowls in a bucket of water with a little Chlorox(to prevent mold) until I have enough to do a "boil". I've left oak bowls soaking for over a month. I don't use the Chlorox water to boil in. As Ken said, works good for me so I'm sticking with it.

BTW, they steam veneer logs before peeling them so they will cut better.

TC

[Richard Madison]

Another vote for my "steaming" hypothesis.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Unfortunately the equipment required for boiling bowls of 10-12" diameter (big pot and big fire) is not available to most of us, so the question remains somewhat academic.
Richard it may not be as difficult as you think. The propane burner assembly and a 55 gal drum cut in half are all you need. Burner assemblies are readily available in Home Depot, Lowe's Academy and other Outdoor Sporting Goods stores. Hope this helps. :)

[Richard Madison]

Good point Chris. Should be available for relatively modest $$, and might very well pay for itself in bowls saved and sold that would otherwise have cracked and split. Wish someone would try the "steaming" idea and report back to us. It should take a smaller pot and smaller "fire", plus a well insulated steaming chamber. Would try it myself, but many things ahead of it on the list. Probably some folks on the regular woodworking forum have plans for a steam chamber.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Good point Chris. Should be available for relatively modest $$, and might very well pay for itself in bowls saved and sold that would otherwise have cracked and split. Wish someone would try the "steaming" idea and report back to us. It should take a smaller pot and smaller "fire", plus a well insulated steaming chamber. Would try it myself, but many things ahead of it on the list. Probably some folks on the regular woodworking forum have plans for a steam chamber.Give Steve Russell a call, he has done it and has stats for you He uses a pressure cooker.

[Richard Madison]

Thanks Chris. Now I vaguely remember reading something about that. Have sent Steve an email.

[Jeff Nicol]

Chris, I think it may work well, I read the link you posted and it lays it out very well. Any way to get them done faster is good!

Great info!

Jeff