Built my DC separator

[Ray Schafer]

Here are some pictures of the separator that I built. I only have to add the connection from the outlet to the DC and I will be up and running!

[Jay Yoder]

Ray,
Cool idea to use the HVAC boot! Let us know how it works!

[Gary Lange]

That is a fine looking separator I just may have to steal that HVAC idea when I build mine.

[Rob Cunningham]

Looks good Ray. That's on of the projects on my soon to do list. I hate taking the bags off my dust collector. Let us know how it works once it's hooked up.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

I second that - the HVAC boot is a stroke of brilliance. I've struggled finding a 'good' connector for this, and using that and going into the side of the barrel opens a lot of options...

[Mike Gager]

where do you plan on putting the second port?

[Boyd Gathwright]

.... Very much interested in seeing the completed picture. . . . .
Here are some pictures of the separator that I built. I only have to add the connection from the outlet to the DC and I will be up and running!

[Bruce Wrenn]

Here are some pictures of the separator that I built. I only have to add the connection from the outlet to the DC and I will be up and running!Unique design, but how will the trash guy handle it? Not very well, I expect. By putting inlet into can, you lose half of can capacity. I built mine as a "top hat" that sits on top of a regular 30 gallon trash can. Take top hat off, and put a lid on can. Set it outside until ready to empty. Replace full can with a fresh can. Photos can be seen over at NC Woodworker, in the workshops forum. Post is titled "Another Vote for Phil Thein's Baffle." Also there is a photo of results when running planer. Impressive!

[Boyd Gathwright]

.... May I offer a suggestion that at a minimum type in an inactive address so we could at least copy and past in to our browsers. This would, I would think, make it a lot easier on me and other members to follow your post. Just a suggestion of course.
Unique design, but how will the trash guy handle it? Not very well, I expect. By putting inlet into can, you lose half of can capacity. I built mine as a "top hat" that sits on top of a regular 30 gallon trash can. Take top hat off, and put a lid on can. Set it outside until ready to empty. Replace full can with a fresh can. Photos can be seen over at NC Woodworker, in the workshops forum. Post is titled "Another Vote for Phil Thein's Baffle." Also there is a photo of results when running planer. Impressive!

[Sonny Edmonds]

Now then, finish it.
After you put your suction port in the lid, set it on a drum for the debris to collect in. :confused:
Because that won't hold very much as it is. ;)

[Ray Schafer]

The second port will go directly in the middle of the top ... as shown in the Phil Thien designs.

[Ray Schafer]

Bruce, I can't argue with your suggestions. In my case, this was the best design. First, I am not allowed to use that can for the trash man. We have special issue trash cans that we have to use. Second, because this will go into the stand for my Delta 50-760, that is about the maximum height that I can use.

You make good suggestions for the right circumstances, though!

[Phil Thien]

The other thing Bruce is forgetting is that it can be difficult for smaller wives to lift a filled-to-the-rim can when it comes time to empty it. :p

[Carl Babel]

Ray, that separator looks great! I do have a couple of questions about it, though:
1. It looks like there might be some gasket material (or something between the HVAC boot and the can. Is that correct? If so, what did you use?
2. The opening looks a little jagged. Do you plan on filing this smooth? I'd worry about turbulence and snagging, but then again, I have been known to over-engineer a time or two before :D

[Jim Mattheiss]

Ray:

That's a nice implementation! I built a similar can/baffle pair about a year ago and posted pictures here a few weeks ago.

When you get it fired up let us know how it separates the chips and fines. I'm very happy with my setup.

Cheers

Jim

[Ray Schafer]

I used window/door selaing strip as the "gasket material." There was no way that I was going to get a good fit of metal to metal.

The opening is very jagged and is under-sized for the duct opening. I am planning to enlarge it, file it smooth and use some bondo to reduce the drag. I am going to get it completed and functional before I take on those fine-tuning items.

I am also going to add a window to check for fullness. Now that I know how to rivet, that should be extremely easy.

[Ray Schafer]

The pictures make it look like it points down slightly, but it is actually parallel to the floor. The illusion is just from the angle of the picture.

[Bruce Wrenn]

.... May I offer a suggestion that at a minimum type in an inactive address so we could at least copy and past in to our browsers. This would, I would think, make it a lot easier on me and other members to follow your post. Just a suggestion of course.Moderators here don't like for you to do direct links to other forums, so I had to do it the way I did. Sorry. You know the old "You can't get there from here, you have to go some where else to start."

[Ray Schafer]

Well, I finished it. I will post pictures later this week!