Good Tape Measure?

[Russ Filtz]

Anyone have a preferred make/model of the old tape measure? The cheapo/freebies I've been using don't lock properly. Very hard to measure like that without 3 hands!

[Kurt Aebi]

I usually get Stanley or Starrett 25" Long, 1" wide tapes. Usually get them for around $5.00 each.

Harbor Freight has a center-finding rule made by US Tape. for $4.00 - and it is a of the same quality as the Stanley or Starrett.

[Dean Baumgartner]

I have a preferance for the Stanley Lever Locks. They're a little less expensive than the Power locks but the nice thing is that as you pull the tape out it stays out until you push in on the lever on the bottom to let them in. You can also use the lever as a kind of a brake so that the tape doesn't come flying in and break or bend the hook.

Dean

[Tom Hintz]

I use the Centerpoint tape all the time. It seems to be very accurate, plus automatically gives you the ceneter measurement whenever you need it. I can't explain how often that has come in handy, and I don't have to go looking for another tape or stick.
I have a review of it at the link below.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/cntrtape.html

[Gary Whitt]

I use the Stanley and lately I've used the Lee Valley (right hand model).
I like the idea of having a tape measure that I can pull with my left hand (from right to left), the numbers are right-side up and I can mark with my right hand.
That being said.....
I use story sticks more than anything. I use my tape measure to mark my story sticks. That way, if I'm off a bit on one measurement, I'm off on all measurements and it evens out.
I don't trust the end pieces of tape measures...they move a little bit.

[Richard Allen]

I have been using a Lufkin 25 foot 3/4" tape for the last 30 years. The first thing I did was unwind a few time to take the presure of the tape. The tape has always closed quickly but the last foot is without much power. I figure 30 years for a tape measure is a good deal.

My second choice is also a Lufkin 10 foot and 1/2". I have olny had that one for 25 years. Did the same release of tension when I first got the tape. It is a cheap tape without a lock, black plastic case that has a hole broken in one of the corners. But the tape still works without and hangs and is easy enough to read.

My wife decided I needed a new tape a few years ago. She got me a Craftsman 30 foot 1". The tape works okay. I don't care for the action, it is larger in the hand than I like but sometimes it's the tape I see in my shop when I want to measure something so I use it.

I know some people will wrap tape at the tip so there is a "shock absorber" when the tape retracts.

Thanks

[Lee Schierer]

I use a Stanley 30' powerlock. I always try to use the same tape measure throughout a project just to keep the chances for tape error down to a minimum.

[Frank Pellow]

I like the Lee Valley tape measures. In particular, I like the two tape measures that I purchased from them about a year ago, one of which is metric only and one of which is imperial only. Having the scale you are using for the current job on both sides of the tape makes things so much easier.

[Jim Becker]

I have a Stanley 25' of indeterminate age, but I generally try to avoid using a tape measure in the shop for furniture projects whenever I can. They are often "just a bit off". A story stick constructed from my plans or some steel rules are what I prefer to measure with when I can. That said, the above mentioned Stanley tape is a "sole" item as it's even worst to mix tapes in the same project. No two tapes ever match exactly, in my experience, although I've never invested in a "premium" one either.

[Dave Sweeney]

For in the shop use, I mainly use a Lufkin ¾"x12' push button lock tape measure. It's a nice compact size that fits very nicely in my hand. I also can't remember the lst time that the 12' length wasn't long enough. I have other longer tape meausres but 99.5% of the time the 12' Lufkin is the one I grab.

[Jason Thaxton]

I would highly recomend the fastcap tapes built in pencil sharpener note pad and the clip is really nice. They have a strong return spring and hold up to every day abuse. I prefer the 16 foot for cabinet making and the 25 foot for construction. The metric/standerd comes in handy so does the center finder but I dont see it on the web site. They also make some other cool products like the 3rd hand, accuscribe and speed clip to hold your pencil and tape.
http://www.fastcap.com/prod.asp?page=procarp

[Jason Thaxton]

fastcap also makes a nice looking story pole tape

[Lowell Kinzer]

For rough carpentry work I prefer a Stanley PowerLock 30' (33-430). Its sliding blade-lock mechanism and boxy shape are better suited for use with a holster or nail-bag pocket. (I find that lever-locks tend to be in the locked position more often than not when drawn, an annoying inconvenience). The high contrast of the black markings on the bright yellow background make for easy reading. It is also durable, withstanding impacts of varying force.

My favorite tape measure for use around the shop has been a Lufkin 30' UNILOK (8430). It's comfortable in my hand, has a lever blade-lock and the markings on the one-inch wide blade are sharp and legible.

Lately, though, I find myself reaching for the Olympia-Tools E-Z READ PRO 25'/7.5 M I bought recently. It has both metric and SAE markings. The graduation marks are narrow, yet legible (the Lufkin and Stanley markings look fat in comparison). The SAE markings include fractions in 1/8" increments, also quite legible. What I like most is its "AUTO STOP FUNCTION": the blade, when pulled out and released, does not retract. A rocking lever, which falls comfortably under the thumb, replaces the usual blade-lock. The lever is marked "LOCK" on the blade end and "RETRACT" on the opposite end. Press and hold the latter end to retract the blade. The case also has a some handy grooves: one across the back edge for the little finger and a pair of grooves on the belt-clip side where a pencil can be held in place with the thumb for use in drawing circles/radii. Overall, I think it is a nifty product.

DISCLAIMER: I've no affiliation with the manufacturers of the products described above other than being a satisfied customer.

Cheers,

Lowell, who couldn't help but notice that he has just written a fawning description of a tape measure, of all things, and has just come to the realization that madness finally has taken its toll. :eek:

[Greg Heppeard]

It really depends on the job at hand. I don't like carrying a boat anchor around, so I usually carry a 12' Stanley. If the job requires something larger, I still stick with Stanley.

[Jim Ketron]

I use a craftsman leverlock tape I used one for years and if it breaks go trade it in. I also use a fat max (stanley) its a little heavy but its a good tape. I use these heavy tapes because this is what I use at work (Fire sprinkler fitter) it has to be a good tape that takes abuse.

Jim

[Keith Outten]

I have an old Stanley 12' Powerlock II that I have been using for as long as I can remember. It is the only tape measure that I have ever found that is reasonably accurate. Awhile back I ordered two of the Starrett 12' tapes and they are unusable, it seems there is an error in the first six inches but the rest of the tape is accurate. I checked the end tab and the error isn't in the tab.

If your tape measure and your tablesaw aren't reasonably close it makes it difficult to maintain any type of project accuracy. Those of you who create storyboard sticks, how do you calibrate them to the scale on your tablesaw? I assume that you lower the blade and cut the stick at critical dimentions.

[Tyler Howell]

Wide assortment of tapes around the shop as posted on a previous thread, I keep loosing them in the gunk. Even have a Starret digital read out from one of my well intended children. (surprisingly accurate but not consistant.
I agree with using one standard on a project, which is usually
the Starret straight edge or a caliper. (always in its place).
Curious by this thread I gathered them all (I could find) together. What a kodak moment hey Chris! This doesn't include the ones affixed to the benches
As long as they're here let's tag them with an I.D. and rodio tracking device and see how they migrate about the premisses. Scientific study! Under closer inspection I see a couple were...... aquired:rolleyes: .... from the shops of others?????
They must have left them here:o .
Remember with almost all measuring devices to burn that first inch. They are rarely exact and prone to ware.

[Chris Padilla]

Tyler, I see some legs forming on the one with the Gerber baby on it! It'll be crawling away very, very soon and it will cost many, many thousands of dollars to raise! ;)

[Russ Filtz]

Thanks for all the replies, surprised a tape measure thread made it to 2-pages! I tried the Stanley and Lufkin at the Borg. Kind of liked the Stanley powerlock as it's locking mode really did. The others could easily be slid in or out with a little pressure. Not sure of the other web only ones. They don't seem too pricey, so might be worth a try.

[Peter Kuhlman]

I find that most tape measures are not very accurate. I purchased 2 new tapes from Sears and had to return them due to being off by 3/16ths in just the first 12" - and that was by "cutting" the first inch so that the sliding tip did not come into effect. I try not to use tape measures for anything requiring accuracy and rely upon my Starrett metal rules. I have checked my Lufkin tapes against my Starrett rules and they are close but loose accuracy over longer distances. The US accuracy guidelines allow 3/16" flexibility over 6' to be acceptable.
Pete

[Chris Padilla]

Thanks for all the replies, surprised a tape measure thread made it to 2-pages!
Russ,

It is still 1-page for my settings! :) I set a new page at >30 posts. :D

[Frank Pellow]

There is a good review of tape measures in the Fine Woodworking 2005 Tool Guide. Based on what I read there, 3 days ago I purchased the Stanley FatMax for my construction work. I love it! The tape can extend at least 10' without flexing. I would say that in the approximately 10 hours that I have used the tape it has already saved me half an hour due to the fact that I am not having to get down from ladders, etc. to position the end of the tape.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I use a 30' Stanley....an interesting story about tapes....check them for accuracy! My brother was helping a friend build a kit storage shed. They framed the walls. When they went to stand them up and join them one wall was a couple of inches shorter than the other. They then compared tape measures....you guessed it. His friend had bought a new tape for this job and it was off by a couple of inches! :confused:

[Dennis Peacock]

I use the Lee Valley Cabinets makers measuring tapes. They're less than $4 each and come in Left-handed and Right-handed and are the most accurate measuring tapes I have ever had.

[Shawn Battagler]

Of the several tapes measures that I have around the shop, I always look for the Stanley lever lock first.

[Mike Evertsen]

I have been using a tape measure with auto lock you pull it out it stays until I push the button. I bought mine a farm & Fleet but I saw them a Rockler last week.

[Frank Pellow]

I use the Lee Valley Cabinets makers measuring tapes. They're less than $4 each and come in Left-handed and Right-handed and are the most accurate measuring tapes I have ever had.

Of course, as in almost everythng they make and/or sell, we would expect Lee Valley to be the most accurate. Having said that, the Fat Max also appears to be accurate. I checked the first three feet against a stell measure that I use for work on furbiture at it was bang on. I also checked it against my 10' Lea Valley cabinet maker's tape and the 8', 8' 6", and 8' 9.5" marks were all at the same place on both tapes.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I use the Stanley and lately I've used the Lee Valley (right hand model).
I like the idea of having a tape measure that I can pull with my left hand (from right to left), the numbers are right-side up and I can mark with my right hand.
That being said.....
I use story sticks more than anything. I use my tape measure to mark my story sticks. That way, if I'm off a bit on one measurement, I'm off on all measurements and it evens out.
I don't trust the end pieces of tape measures...they move a little bit.

Gary, they are supposed to move the width of the hook on the tape so you can use them to measure inside or outside.

[glenn bradley]

The Fastcap 'Flatback' works for me but warning; watch the rewind speed. there's a pressure button under your index finger when you grip the tape, use it or the tape will rewind at light speed.

[Steve Clardy]

Another Fast Cap user

[Tim Clark]

I have a preferance for the Stanley Lever Locks. They're a little less expensive than the Power locks but the nice thing is that as you pull the tape out it stays out until you push in on the lever on the bottom to let them in. You can also use the lever as a kind of a brake so that the tape doesn't come flying in and break or bend the hook.

Dean

I've been looking for Lever Locks and can't find any. Where can I find some?

[Craig Stueve]

Another vote for the Fast Cap here. It's hard to say if the built in pencil sharpener or the note pad is more useful on it.

Craig

[Chris Padilla]

Ah, old thread!

[Dan Clark]

I have a Fastcap 25' Metric/Standard. Lots of great features. It would be the perfect tape except for one issue - the metal is not thick enough to extend for more than about 8-10 feet without bending.

Even with this limitation, it's a great tape. I have about 5 tapes (most Stanley's) and rarely use them anymore.

Regards,

Dan.

[Mark Singer]

I really like the FastCap....metric/imperial... I have several different ones ...some are story poles where you write notes on 1/2 of the tape....sharpener....quick and hold lock buttons.

[jack duren]

Ive been using Craftsman for about the last 15 yrs. Before that i used True Value brand because of the soft retracting. Craftsman tape warranty has currently changed but ill continue to use the.

For those who say there tapes arent accurate or three tapes are all different. You really should learn to adjust the tape so they are all accurate. It takes just a few seconds. No different than squaring a square.......Jack

[chester stidham]

I know most people us a 25' tape but I use a Stanley 12' tape most of the time I like the way it fits in my pockets :eek:

[Philip Duffy]

Anyone but me into Metric? Never could deal with fractions. Phil

[Bob Noles]

Ive been using Craftsman for about the last 15 yrs. Before that i used True Value brand because of the soft retracting. Craftsman tape warranty has currently changed but ill continue to use the.

For those who say there tapes arent accurate or three tapes are all different. You really should learn to adjust the tape so they are all accurate. It takes just a few seconds. No different than squaring a square.......Jack

Jack,

I would love some guidance on this process. Any links you can point to on the subject?

[Randy Meijer]

Jack,

I would love some guidance on this process. Any links you can point to on the subject?

Yeah, me too!!

[James Suzda]

IMHO the Stanley LeverLock isn't what it's cracked up to be. After using these tapes for a short time the locking mechanism wears the graduations off the face of the tape rendering the first 6 inches or so worthless for any measurements in this range.
Jim

[CPeter James]

Isn't "good tape measure" an oxymoron? I do use the Stanley 16' most of the time. I like the 3/4" blade and the size fits my hand. I also have some 12" ones. They seem to be farily accurate, but I would pay more for a better one if I could find one. I like some Starrett tools, but the tapes are not up to the same quality level as the hard rules.

CPeter

[Matt Meiser]

I bought one of the FastCap tapes that has the fractions printed on it. Now I don't have to remember "3 lines past a half inch" :rolleyes: I also have several steel rules which I'm using more and more. I've been sticking with the advice that you should use one tape throughout a project too, which helps, and where applicable, I measure parts off any existing parts to reduce cumulative errors.

[Bob Noles]

I bought one of the FastCap tapes that has the fractions printed on it. Now I don't have to remember "3 lines past a half inch"

Matt.....

You made my day :rolleyes:

I thought I was the only one in the world that measured this way :)

Glad to see someone else has the same MO :eek:

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Kline (Period). I've had all the common brands and not one compares to the little 12' Kline with the steel body.

I've had mine for over 20 years.

[Bart Leetch]

I have been using yellow Ace brand 16' tapes for several years I have 3 of the each marked with a number 1 - 3 so I can tell if I am using the same one all the way through a project.

[chris butryn]

My vote goes to the 12' Lufkin, small and cheap, fits easily in my pocket.

BTW I didn't read the whole thread but someone noted the play in the hook at the end of the tape, thats supposed to be there, it moves to make up for the thickness of the hook depending on if you're measuring on the inside of the hook or the outside (if the tapes designed properly anyways).

[glenn bradley]

I second the vote for Fast Cap. I love thier flatback tape. I'd love it more if they would 86 the story pole and add a right-2-left scale. Better yet, have both!

[john tomljenovic]

another vote for fastcap. I use the lefty/righty with fractions printed on the rule. liked them so much I went out and bought 6 rules to keep around the shop and always have one.


and I actually use the pencil sharpener. not the notepad though, just write on the wood I am measuring.