lacquer blushing

[Jake Helmboldt]

On my bottle stoppers I've been using lacquer, applied as suggested by some here. I applied a coat wiped on thin, allowed it to set for ~30 seconds an then applied light friction and a buffing with a soft cloth. One of my stoppers (hopefully the only one) has had some blushing after about a week.

Reading up on the issue suggests allowing a slower cure to let moisture evaporate. Given the application on the lathe that doesn't seem possible, so I'm wondering what the solution might be. This has been my first use of lacquer so I'm learning as I go.

Also, does applying multiple coats (or applying in quick succession) contribute to blushing?

[Jim Underwood]

Water causes blushing. If the wood is wet and you apply the lacquer, then you can get blushing because the water gets trapped by the lacquer. If you apply lacquer when the weather is wet you can get blushing.
We use a blush retardant to get rid of it.

This applies to commercially applied lacquer, but you get the idea:

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Controlling_Lacquer_Blushing.html

[Scott Conners]

You can get "blush remover" in a can that should fix surface blush from humid conditions, I don't' know if it will help with wet wood.

[Jim Underwood]

Oops. The blush remover is what I meant.:o

[Jim Becker]

"Blush Remover" = Lacquer Thinner... ;) Why pay more? (Just use it outdoors!)

[David Christopher]

Blush remover and laquer thinner is not the same

[hank dekeyser]

I've never heard of "blush remover" but I am quite familiar with "laquer retarder" - NO it is not the same as thinner. As was stated above, blushing occurs when moisture is trapped in the finish coat. Whether it is high humidity when applied, moisture in the wood etc. blushing will happen. Having most of my "blushing experience with "flat work" (cabinets etc) I can only testify that laquer retarder works for high humidity conditions. I have no idea about moisture in the wood ?? I'm guessing that if you try to laquer something that isn't "dry" you're just begging for it to blush.
If you can't locate laquer retarder then , yes thinner will work as follows. Apply the laquer finish (I only spray laquer so if you're brushing it you're on your own) Then as it is drying, load your gun with laquer thinner and shoot it as if it were a finish coat (don't drench it or it will run). WHat this does is to help slow the curing / drying process allowing the moisture to escape. Laquer like all solvent finishes "dry" as the solvents escape (dissipate) from the finish. You can do the same thing if you manage to bugger the finish w/ a big run or an accidental scrape. Take the sticky side of masing tape and "peel" the run off. This will leave an orange peel texture, lightly dust the area with thinner to smooth it out. let it dry, sand it out and recoat. It's easier to sand and recoat an orange peel than a big run.

[Jim Becker]

David, I was more or less referring to what Hank explained. Both lacquer and shellac, as evaporative finishes, can be "reactivated" by their respective solvents and that often can help any trapped moisture (blush) escape. My apologies for not being clear in my a inadequate short answer.

[Allen Neighbors]

I agree with 99% of the above. :D
I've been using nitro-cellulose lacquer for over 30 years. I spray lacquer with a cheap Buffalo spraygun. I use retarder year round. I spray in all kinds of weather, cold, hot, wet, dry. Once in a while I may get a little blush, but not often. When I do, I load straight lacquer thinner into the gun, and spray as if I were putting on a final light coat. Does it every time. Don't spray green wood... (unless the paint is really dry.) :D
Hope this helps.

[David Christopher]

Sorry Jim, did'nt mean to sound so short

[Jim Underwood]

I work in a cabinet shop, and we use a blush remover when something blushes despite the retarder in the lacquer. I'm not sure whose brand we use, but it's something like this:

http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/blusblusrem.html