Craftsman table saw model 113.298051

[Zach Dillinger]

All,

My hand-me-down table saw is acting up. The blade wobbles slightly while running, not a lot, but enough to notice on the final cut (i.e. not perfectly square) . This is a direct drive saw, so I'm assuming that the motor bearings are shot. I've looked on Sears website and I see that the motor is no longer available. My question to you all is if you think it is worth it to go through the hassle of pulling the motor and taking it to an electric motor shop. I don't know how much it would cost to get it fixed, if it can be fixed. My budget for a new saw would be in the $400-500 range, so I don't know if I could get a better quality saw for that little. I've doctored the original rip fence so that it locks square and slides easily, so the fence isn't an issue on my current saw.

Bottom line, can I get a saw that is drastically better quality for that kind of money? Would I be better off just going through the hassle to fix this one (if it can be fixed) if I can't get enough of a jump in quality to justify the $$$?

Thanks for any insights or suggestions.

Zach Dillinger
Charlotte, MI

[Chris Padilla]

Can the bearings be replaced? I'm no expert on this saw but if the motor is working, why replace it unless it is cheaper than fixing the runout on the arbor?

[Zach Dillinger]

I'm not set against fixing the existing motor, I just don't want to take the time to pull it all apart, only to find that the saw can't be fixed, either by repairing the existing motor or by installing a new one. I guess I'm just looking for an excuse to buy a new saw, but I don't want to waste my money buying something that is the same quality as my existing saw.

I think that I will investigate pulling the motor over the weekend and take it down to the repair shop. It can't be that hard, right?

Zach

[Lee Schierer]

Direct drive saws are not a very good option for wood working. The size of the motor must be small to get any sort of cut depth out of a 10" blade. Hence they are generally very under powered. You'll find a replacement motor cost to be about the same as a nice down payment on a better saw. If you can't afford a new saw, there are many used ones out there if you look around and let it be known to your friends and family that you are looking for one.

[Myk Rian]

I had one of those saws. The problem I noticed was the armature shaft moved in and out approx. 1/64". It was hard to get it to cut on a straight line. I didn't bother trying to get it fixed. Just replaced it.

[Gary Lange]

I think that the consensus here would be that it is really not worth fixing and that your best option is to get a new Table Saw. That said should give you excuse enough to get the new one.

[scott spencer]

Zach - It's probably not worth fixing. The parts might be worthwhile to sell on Ebay to offset some of the costs to replace it. The wings, leg stand, fence, miter gauge, blade guard, switch, hand wheels, throat insert, etc., all have some value...you might walk away with close to $100 for parts if things go well.

There are a lot of good used full sized cast iron contractor saws available with belt drive induction motors that often go for $100-$250 range that have more potential than your direct drive saw. The Emerson and Ryobi era Craftsman saws from the 70's to ~ 2004 have basically the same guts as the modern Ridgid contractor saws....they'll usually benefit from a fence upgrade as some point. Things like wings, motors, and fences are often interchangeable between brands of standard size saws. You might also stumble into an older Delta, Jet, Grizzly, GI, or Powermatic.

[Jeff Dunlap]

I was looking for a new table saw as i had a direct drive craftsman, but like you I also couldn't spend more than about 500. I ended up getting the ridgid 3660, and i am completely happy with it. i got it for 499 with a 10% off coupon form home depot, its regularly 550. The fence locks done nice and square, the miter gauage, for one that comes with a saw is prety good, i have cut hard maple and walnut on it with no problem. Also the mobile base works great if you need to move it. It aslo got, well it 3650, counterpart, which is the same saw got the best budget contractor's saw. another good thing was that is 110v so i did not need to rewire. If i were you i would look at this saw or the delta 36-980, about 600 but it is on sale frequently for 550 and comes with a beisenmeyer clone fence. Read the reviews both are great saws for the money.

[Bill Huber]

You can't get the motor from Sears any more and I think that a direct drive saw is not that good to start with.

So I am with the camp for getting a new saw. In your price range is a good CL find or the Ridgid for around $550.

I this area I have seen like new Ridgid for around $400 so you may want to look for one on CL.

Good Luck...

[Zach Dillinger]

Guys,

Thanks for all of the advice. I think that the Craftsman has to go. I found an "extremely heavy, running Delta Rockwell saw" on my local Craigslist for $100.... here's hoping I'll have a Unisaw gloat tomorrow!

Zach

[Zach Dillinger]

Guys,

As a follow up to my Craftsman saw dilemma, I just thought that I would let you all know about my new purchase.

On Saturday, I bought a Ridgid TS2412 off of Craigslist. The seller through in a Delta tenoning jig, an Incra 1000 miter gauge, a tapering jig, a homemade crosscut sled, several different carbide saw blades including a Freud combo blade, a Freud stacked dado set, a Craftsman stacked dado set, two Board Buddies to control kickback and a plywood storage unit for the blades that bolts to the saw.

For all that, including the saw, I paid $150. The saw table had some surface rust, but I was able to scrub that out with some WD40 and steel wool. 5 coats of paste was on all table surfaces, including insert plate, wings, and fence and now boards almost float over the table. Cuts great, nice and square. I know the rule that no pics means it didn't happen. I will get some pics tonight.

So, I think this qualifies as my first power tool gloat.

Take care,

Zach

[David Christopher]

Outstanding, with pics that is definitely gloat worthy

Congrats

[Zach Dillinger]

Guys, as promised, here are pics of my haul.

I got the whole shebang for $150

106753

Blade storage rack

106755

The front of the saw with adhesive foam sheet in the front opening to help with dust collection. I just put that on last night.

106754

What do you say? I think I did pretty well for myself.

Zach

[john bateman]

The accessories were worth what you paid. The saw was free.

[Myk Rian]

I'm sure someone here is gonna say, You suck.

Nice catch.

[Zach Dillinger]

The accessories were worth what you paid. The saw was free.


That's what I thought when I first saw the Craiglist ad. I was just hoping that it was as good as it sounded. Turns out it was.

Thanks for all of your support guys.

[Dwain Lambrigger]

Congratulations on the score. A previous poster stole my thinder, you paid for those accessories and got the saw for free. You made a great choice, and

YOU SUCK.

[chris yount]

Nice score,
I had a similar situation and a similar result.I out grew my direct drive saw and replaced it with a Delta belt drive.I had to wait about 6 months before found it though.Im glad you didnt have to wait.

[Rod Sheridan]

Very nice Zack, it looks like a good find........Rod.

[dan mahler]

You got an excellent deal. Great Craiglslist find!

[scott spencer]

That's what I thought when I first saw the Craiglist ad. I was just hoping that it was as good as it sounded. Turns out it was.

Thanks for all of your support guys.

Sweet deal for $150! That saw merits a nice new blade! :D

Congrats!

[Zach Dillinger]

Thanks guys. The Ridgid fence that came with the saw seems to work ok, but I could definitely see myself upgrading the fence system soon. I've heard that the Delta T-2 is a good fence, but the Biesemeyer seems to be the industry standard. With what I paid for the saw, I figure I can splurge and get the Biesemeyer and still be under the cost of a new saw.

Is there any rational reason for getting the Biesemeyer instead of the the Delta? Is it worth the increased price?

Thanks for all of your help.

Zach

[Jason Whitaker]

did you happen to meet the guy on the street and get the stuff off the back of a truck? Wow, I would pay more than $150 just for what is on the table....IMPRESSIVE!

[James Carmichael]

A quote from Kung Fu Panda "You suck worse than anyone in the history of sucking!"

[Zach Dillinger]

A quote from Kung Fu Panda "You suck worse than anyone in the history of sucking!"

Gee, thanks, I think... :)

[Zach Dillinger]

did you happen to meet the guy on the street and get the stuff off the back of a truck? Wow, I would pay more than $150 just for what is on the table....IMPRESSIVE!

Lol, nope, met the guy in his garage and had to move the kid's bikes, kiddie pool, etc. so I could get to the saw to disassemble it. The saw had some rust on the table but it polished up nicely.

Zach

[Dave Potter]

Zack:

Sweet saw and set-up! I'm more than a little jealous of your good fortune.

I'd say don't chuck the old saw. With a 10-inch sanding disk, you might be able to convert it to a reasonable disk sander. ...At least for "rough" sanding.

Just a thought.

Dave P.

[scott spencer]

Thanks guys. The Ridgid fence that came with the saw seems to work ok, but I could definitely see myself upgrading the fence system soon. I've heard that the Delta T-2 is a good fence, but the Biesemeyer seems to be the industry standard. With what I paid for the saw, I figure I can splurge and get the Biesemeyer and still be under the cost of a new saw.

Is there any rational reason for getting the Biesemeyer instead of the the Delta? Is it worth the increased price?

Thanks for all of your help.

Zach

The Biese is a great fence. Overall, its more robust, heavier duty, has a bit nicer fit and finish, and is likely less prone to flex when heavy pressure is applied than the T2, but at regular retail there's a big price difference that I wouldn't spring for if it was my money. The T2 is more than "good nuff" and is the better value for hobby work on a contractor saw IMO.