Advice for a Woodworker starting out...

[Todd McGeachy]

Hey gang. I am here to soak up all your trial and error experience before I set up my shop :D
I am in the design phase and am creating a purchasing list to prioritize. I realize that picking tools is somewhat like picking a tie. Everyone has different taste in style/brand and such, so I am less concerned about that then what tools you all would consider indispensible if you have or could have them.

The applications of these tools will include: Home remodel (Craftsman style, kitchen and bath etcetera) and likely a fair amount of cabinetry upon its completion as well as custom furniture.
I will be starting from scratch as you will see so feel free to suggest anything I may have missed.

First off, the portion I am having the most difficulty is with router bits, you can buy them as you need them for projects, but would like to have a selection to experiment with and would also like to have a selection of those you folks found you can't do without.
I have looked at the following:

Infinity Router Bits Sets
http://www.infinitytools.com/departments.asp?dept=1004
http://www.holbren.com/home.php?cat=24
H6072 99 pc. Master Cabinetmaker Router Bit Set

These have been suggested to me:
1. Beading bit
2. Roundover (three sizes)
3. Pattern bits, a wide variety of diameters
4. Straight bits, spiral bits
5. Chamfer bits (three sizes)
6. Cope-and-stick bits (chamfer-edge profile)
7. Ogee bits (two sizes)

Secondly, since I am starting from scratch, what clamps are the best to invest in?

Jorgensen Cabinet Master Clamps
The Bowclamp Master Set
Jet 70411 Parallel Clamp Cabinet Door Set
Bessey H5115 Bessey® Tradesman Clamp Kit
Rockler 10'' Wooden Hand Screw Clamp
Wetzler clamps

For starting out, these were recommended to me, though I know the rule I will never have enough:
1. Two 12” F-style
2. Six 4” F-style
3. Eight 12” parallel jaw
4. Fourteen 26” parallel jaw
5. Four 40” parallel jaw
6. Four handscrews, large size
7. Four quick-release plastic clamps
8. Eight spring clamps

I was also looking at the JLT Clamps 79F-8-PC Panel Clamp Rack.

I have also seen several JLT Clamps 79k-6-DC Cabinet Door Clamp systems for sale, but wonder at ist usefulness as it is limited to one project at a time.

And finally a good and reliable HVLP turbine and spray gun.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions are pointers you may have.


A little info to give perspective for advice. I have made arrangements for a semi-trailer to pick up for me through a friend’s transport company. I found these items to beat local pricing by 30-300%, so justifying the transport, and brokerage fee. To keep costs under control I kept as much as possible to one company to keep the shipping point A to point B. The present iteration of the company’s products seems to be reliable and of a good quality for the investment while allowing me to put together a wide selection of tools. Spacewise, I am shopping for a acerage with either a on-site good-sized shop or will build one to fit my needs.

Anyway here is my present list…

G0514X2B 19" 3 HP Bandsaw
G7314 Heavy-Duty Mobile Base

G0490 Jointer
H8803 Shelix Cutterhead 8" (G0490)

G0453 15" Planer
H7768 15" Shelix Cutterhead
G2857 Thickness Gauge
G1738 Rotacator® For Planers

G0651 10" Heavy-Duty Cabinet Table Saw
G4227 Sliding Table For Table Saws & Shapers
H7583 Tenoning Jig
G8984 Single Roller Stand

G0448 Heavy-Duty Mortiser With Stand
G7314 Heavy-Duty Mobile Base
H7789 Mortising Attachment Kit
H2549 Mortising Chisels Set of 4 - 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 1/2"
H2548 3/4" Mortising Chisel
H2547 5/8" Mortising Chisel
H2548 3/4" Mortising Chisel
H7560 Mortise Marking Gauge

H7551 Dovetail Square, 3"
H7978 Fractional Digital Caliper

G0441 3 HP Cyclone Dust Collector
H7509 Stand for G0441

G0627 40" x 20" Downdraft Table w/ Stand
G9956 Remote Controlled Heavy-Duty Double Air Filter
H2452 Rear Filter for G9956

G7948 12 Speed 20" Floor Drill Press
G5753 Drill Press Vise - 6"
G7314 Heavy-Duty Mobile Base

G1026 3 HP Shaper
G4839 3" Dust Hood for G1026 Shaper
G7314 Heavy-Duty Mobile Base
G2910 4" Shaper Spindle Fits Grizzly® G1026
G2606 3" Moulding Head w/ 1" Bore
G3030 Shaper Handbook
G4181 1 HP Power Feeder

G1495 Heavy-Duty Wood Lathe (Will likely put the lathe on hold and will instead get a better bandsaw.)
H1064 6-Piece Deluxe HSS Lathe Chisel Set
T10010 10" Wet Grinder Kit
T10023 Accessory Kit #1 for T10010
T10024 Accessory Kit #2 for T10010
T10025 Blade Sharpening Jig for T10010

G1066Z 24" Drum Sander w/ VS
G7315 Super Heavy-Duty Mobile Base
G1276 Combination Sander 6" x 48" Belt 12" Disc 1725 RPM
G1220 12" Sanding Disc various PSA, 2 pc.

G0564 Oscillating Edge Sander 3 HP
G7315 Super Heavy-Duty Mobile Base

G1071 Oscillating Spindle Sander
G8683 Mini Mobile Base
G1512 Pro-Stik® Abrasive Belt & Disc Cleaner 2" x 2" x 12"
G3608 3" Dia. x 9" Sanding Sleeve, various

Grizzly G7910 Hand Held Edge Bander
G7911 Trimmer - Double Edge
G8673 Blades for G7911 Edge Trimmer

Hand Tools
Panasonic 15.6V 1/2" 3.5 Ah Ni Mh Cordless Drill
Hitachi DN12DYK Right Angle Drill (12 Volt, 3/8" Chuck)

Triton 2-1/4 HP Plunge Router

Bostitch FN16250K-2 16 Gauge 1-1/4” 2-1/2” Finish Nailer
Bostitch BT200K-2 18 Gauge 5/8-Inch to 2-Inch Brad Nailer
Bostitch HP118K 23 Gauge ½” - 1-3/16” Pin Nailer

Milwaukee 6394-21 15 Amp 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw
Bosch 1590EVSK 6.4 Amp Top Handle Jigsaw
DEWALT DW713 Heavy-Duty 10-Inch Compound Miter Saw

Kreg K3MS K3 Master Pocket Hole Jig System
Kreg RAC Right Angle Clamp
Kreg PFC Face Clamps 3-1/4-Inch Premium Face Clamp
Kreg SKO2 Pocket Hole Screw Kit

Triton MSA200 Adjustable 25” – 37” Tall Pivoting Multi-Stand

MASTER Joinery Complete Dovetail Jointmaking Package

And finally, is the Router Boss 470 worth investing in in light of the above list...

[Eric DeSilva]

As far as router bits, I tend to look for 1/2" Whiteside bits on sale. I think WC may have roundovers on sale now, for example. The most used bits I've got are probably the pattern cutting bits, roundover bits, the rabbeting set, and the undersize plywood plywood bits for dados. I am infinitely more comfortable with 1/2" shank bits than 1/4" bits. 1/4" bits look flimsy to me.

As far as cabinet clamps, I have a rack of Bessey K Bodies and Jets, and I always reach for the Jets first.

I wouldn't stress out about buying all of them at once, either. I picked up a lot of K Bodies on craigslist, but don't think I would have had an issue acquiring them over time. Unless you plan on building an entire kitchen at once... Clamps are task-specific. Keep a little clamp stash and acquire what you need when you need it.

[Todd McGeachy]

Hey Eric :) yes, 1/2" shank seems to be the way to go, I agree. Actually I will be doing a complete re-model in all likelihood within the next year. As for the clamps, yes, I will need them pretty quick so figured if I was going to buy them bulk I may as well get good ones for the money.

[Lee Schierer]

Don't go cheap on router bits. You actually get what you pay for in router bits. Stick with the better brands, Freud, Whiteside, Amana. You'll buy a quality bit once. Cheap bits will be purchased several times.

You'll never have enough clamps of the right size. Pick up clamps as you need them. They will spend most of their life hanging on a wall so you don't need to go name brand here in many cases.

[Ray Newman]

A great deal is going to depend upon what you are going to do. What you may now think you’re going to do, doesn’t always happen. As well as vice-versa.

As for clamps & router bits, I'd buy them as you need 'em.
W/ some of these bit sets, you could have a bit(s) that that you don’t use because it is not the correct profile or not the profile needed. Buying bits as needed negates this.

For straight bits, I’ve purchased end mills from the local machine shop supply house. End mills are available in metric & US fractional sizes, double & four flutes, coated, etc. Some are available in 3/8” shanks & PC has a 3/8” (or did@ one time) a 3/8” router collet for their routers.
Whenever possible, buy 1/2” shanks -- less vibration.

Buy quality bits & always examine the bit before leaving the store.

Good clamps aren’t cheap & you can possibly save a few bucks by purchasing used. Just carefully to look over & work the mechanism. A massive collection clamps looks impressive, but again sometimes you don’t need all that you have because the work doesn’t call for it.

If you purchased pre-owned & need to have them shipped, that’ll probably reduce or wipe out any savings.

As for a clamp rack, I built the New Yankee Workshop clamp cart a few years ago. It is solid & heavy when loaded. Building your own cart ( or any other jig, router table, etc.) gives you practice, skill development, & you can tailor it to your needs. If you make your own clamp cart/rack, purchase quality casters. The only modification that I made to the New Yankee cart was to add a large right angle metal brace to each of the uprights & the bottom. I believe the bracket Is about 1” X 6” & bolted to the uprights & base w/ machine screws.

[Jim Kountz]

Holy cow, that should about do it I would say. One thing you might want to add is more clamps. You can never have too many. Router bits are something that is hard to say what you will actually "need". Yes there are a few that are used alot but often times you buy one of those "complete sets" and you find yourself using about 30% of them and the rest just sit there. However if I were just starting out from scratch perhaps one of those 30 or 66 piece sets would be a good place to start. Hard to say really. If you're getting a shaper too however you might want to hold off on the router bits until you find which one you like working with better, the shaper or the router. This is a heated discussion here too, I had a shaper and sold it. Others here couldnt live without theirs, again it depends on what you're going to be doing. I dont do cabinet doors everyday anymore so I didnt need mine. My router table suits me just fine for what little molding operations I do these days. I see you had a lathe on the list. See right here you could save alot of money. Just buy the lathe and you wont need any of the other tools anymore! You will find yourself sucked into the great lathe vortex and your other tools become obsolete. Its true ask any turner and you'll see!!
Good luck with everything and keep us posted, this sounds like its going to be one nice shop when you get it done!!

[Randy Klein]

Todd,

Are you starting from scratch experience-wise as well?

Also, don't forget about the real hand tools - chisels, planes, saws, etc. Even in a 100% power tool shop, you'll still need these.

[Eric DeSilva]

Anyway here is my present list…

Holy heck! Pretty remarkable shopping list. Shiraz (who frequents this forum) can close early for the day!

[Matt Day]

You're buying all those machines at once? Holy Moses! How much experience do you have? I, as well as most of us here, buy piece by piece on an as-needed basis for the particular project we're working on. I think I appreicate each tool more because of that.

[Glenn Clabo]

First question...Where in Canada are you. There are some really amazing Canadians here on SMC who would love to help you buy (with your Loonies of course) tools.;)

[Roger Warford]

Wow! (Picking self up off floor after falling out of chair) You don't start small, do you? Do you have any finishing equipment? I see the nailers so you must have a compressor. I was thinking "conversion gun", but given the extent of the list, seems like a better HVLP system might be in order.

And a spray booth.

And an explosion proof fan.

And a kitchen sink.

Nah, I'm not jealous! ;)

[Eric Gustafson]

Anyway here is my present list….......
...

Your list reminded me of a ham radio friend I knew years ago. He had figured out just what equipment would satisfy him for the rest of his life. He was sure if he presented that "minor" list to his wife, she would be happy to know that the extent of his desires was "limited." :rolleyes:

Of course, that was not the reaction he got! :eek:

I learned something valuable that day and never presented any such list to my wife. ;)

[Scott Wigginton]

Todd, you don't need a mobile base for your G0490, it already has one built in.

I'd second the Whiteside router bits & not overdoing the profiles until you know what you're gonna be working with. The staples I'm starting with are a round over set, undersized plywood dado set, and multi-depth rabbet set. I grabbed a few profiles from the $5 bin at Woodcraft and will see how I use them before I invest in quality (so far none used yet)

I also picked up an Incra Guaranteed Square, dial indicator, and quality straightedge (Veritas and Woodpeck have some good options) to make sure all my nice new machinery is aligned.

[Noah Vig]

Heh, holy smokes:eek: Thats quite the list!

I would buy the byrd head for the planer before getting one for a jointer. I have the equivalent shop fox jointer with standard blades and the same planer with a byrd head (yet to be installed).

I don't have any experience with any of the other machinery listed so can't help you out there.

For the machinery your buying, I would say the bandsaw is pretty small depending on what its going to be used for. Personally, I would definetly spring for a bigger heavier duty model but thats just me.

For dust collection, I personally would just go straight to a cyclone 2 hp or above (this is based on reading about cyclones and using a delta 1.5hp canister type; I am going to build my own and have a 3hp baldor motor and a matching 15" impeller already) and run duct work. The clearvue cyclones are interesting to me and I might brake down at some point and order one of the bodies.

Some cove router bits would probably be good too. Pay for good quality bits. Then again, if your going to buy a bunch of types at once you might want to consider buying an MLCS set of cheaper bits and replace the ones you end up using with high quality. That way you don't have money tied up in high quality bits your not using. Thats the route I took and there are still bits I haven't used once from the MLCS set.

I would also get an air filtration unit to hang from the ceiling (I use the JDS 750-ER).

Have fun.

[Mike Heidrick]

There are two edge sanders on you list - $700 and $1700 one.

Quite a shopping list.

Upgrade to the g1066Z - velcro system and variable speed are worth it.

I own the JLT 8' Panel rack. I absolutely LOVE it and I am not a cabinet shop. Buy one cheap and you will love it as well.

How big is your shop???

[Michael Gibbons]

Welcome Todd!!! Don't forget to include hand tools. Ya know, like the low angle block plane, marking gauges and such. That's a heck of a list.

[Todd McGeachy]

Randy: Somewhat, I put myself through college working carpentry and helped restore a 1920’s home in high school as a summer job. I have done a fair amount of renovation for myself and friends over the years and work with precision tools in the workplace.

I plan to head to Philadelphia for some training and also Ontario for some one-on-one mentoring with a cabinetmaker as holiday time permits.

The majority of the tools are going to be used in the remodeling of our home on the acreage and I plant to enjoy the progression of learning to use each of the machines and techniques. Due to my work I am one of those few who reads manuals ;D I realize the most recommended way would be to purchase as I developed, but by purchasing at once I make such a significant savings in shipping and access>time that the savings cover any redundancy of equipment purchased. I am still budgeting though, and with the economic state effecting pricing and such things may change. Basically it comes down to the wife has said I can buy whatever I want if I build her a country farmhouse with all the trimmings

I am hoping to build my folks a cottage out there as well and my Dad will be able to spend his retirement working in this shop as well; so this is for him too and I want him to have what he needs.

I have many of the power tools and so on, including mechanics tools, so didn’t list them. I will likely buy a fair amount of new gear there as well though, but locally.

Glenn: Things are a little fuzzy as to exact location when I start setting up right now. Can let you know for sure in about a month

Eric: Never mention the LIST Just say you are picking up a few things...and make sure she is away when the semi comes...

Scott: Thanks Scott I missed that the G0490 had a wheeled base. I figured it was best to get them for all the units since I will likely do some moving until I find what workflow is best for me. I figured picking up some inexpensive bits until I found what I really liked would be best..then buy quality. I was hoping that there were some specific ones folks found they couldn't do without...

I expect to spend 3 months getting to know the tools maintenance and set-up before I do anything serious. Then I will work on building benches, shop cabinets and storage to practice before moving on to finer things over the next year.

Ray: I think I will go down to our on-call machinist and see what he can get for me, thanks, funny how the obvious slips by sometimes.

Roger: I plan to purchase the compressor and so on locally as I can negotiate a good price. Spray booth I will build, have the design and specs already. Shower, sink will be in place too. Don't be jealous until I get it done You know how these things are... But when my house sale is complete I thought why not. I have had a couple friends die of cancer in the last year and it seemed like why put it off something you have wanted to do a long time, I just won't buy a new truck. The equipment should pay for itself over the course of my remodel.

Noah: It was recommended to me to upgrade to the Byrd head on the jointer to decrease downtime due to sharpening. Please let me know what your thoughts are on your planer after you get the Byrd in.

I've had a couple suggestions to look at a bigger bandsaw....

Yes the cyclone style is likely the way to go now, my orginal plan was more modest and the dust collection was more than adequate, but since I calculated cost for shipping and saving it became clear I should take advantage of the break in shipping and use the savings to get a few more things.

Thanks for the thoughts...

I appreciate everyone taking the time to help me make sure I haven't forgot anything. Once I have the tool list done include the hand tools with costs, shipping costs, electrician fees, set-up fees and a unforseen cost margin I can build my budget and know where I am at.

One place I looked at had a nice 24x32 shop with in floor heating and stainless steel sinks + a shower and bathroom, a 26x28 barn, a 32x48 hay shed (read wood storage) and a 30x50 metal hanger nearby. And it was basically free with the purchase of the house and land since the pricing was the same as others in the area with just a home on the property.

[Todd McGeachy]

Hey Mike!
I have noticed a number of JLT 8' Panel rack systems floating around for $1300-1800 with clamps. It seemed like a great idea for maximizing space and promoting production. Thanks for the confirmation :)

Hey Michael :)
I felt that on the hand tool side I can get them locally or in the city so not as much a concern and the price difference is negligible. So wasn't as concerned there, I can get what I need as I need it, though any particular tools you feel are a life-saver let me know to watch for them.

[Bill Houghton]

Since I am somewhere under half of that myself, after 35 years and multiple remodels.

You mention "remodeling." I'm not quite sure what you mean by that, since your tool list seems oriented toward cabinet-building rather than carpentry, but if you expect to do any demolition as part of the remodeling, you should add a reciprocating saw to the list. I've had a Makita and a Milwaukee, and like the Milwaukee. My son, who's a carpenter, recommended the basic model, and it's been a great tool. NOTHING beats a recipro for demolition.

Others have mentioned hand tools, and I'd like to concur. At minimum, a block plane (low angle seems most generally useful. If you're buying new, as you seem to be, Lee Valley and Lie-Nielsen both have good ones); but a smoothing plane's helpful too. A set of chisels, 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", and 1". Ashley Iles are said to be good (I have old chisels of many brands, picked up here and there - but, again, you seem to be going retail), but you should pick up Stanley plastic-handled chisels in 1/4" and 3/4" for the rough carpentry, shim shaving when installing cabinets, etc. Sharpening gear for the edge tools (this is a whole discussion in itself). Screwdrivers, pliers, and so on. Combination square (don't scrimp; a good one will run $75 or up, but won't steer you wrong). Adjustable bevel (Lee Valley's is the coolest of the modern ones, in my opinion based purely on catalog lust). Japanese-type cat's-paw nail remover. Nailsets. Levels, torpedo (9" or so), 24", 48". Laser level for cabinet installation - the inexpensive ones are surprisingly good, although you have to fuss a little more. I paid US$70 for mine (Johnson, I think it is) from a big box store, and, when the counter installation guys came out, they said my cabinets were better leveled than anything they'd seen recently from contractors.

I'm sure I've forgotten things, but that will go a ways toward the basics.

[Todd McGeachy]

Hey Bill,
I realize it may seem over the top to do it all at once, and I would normally not do so, but we will be living in a somewhat remote area with regard to access to such equipment at a reasonable price...and I decided to get the things I wanted while the getting was good :) Plus my dad doesn't have 35-40 years for us to build up our gear... so I will jump start it a bit. It may seem extravagant to some, but I walked to work for the last two decades so I could double up my house payments. The shop is my gift to myself for not having done much but work sleep and work, (I think I ate and got married in there somewhere too).

I have many hand tools, and my uncle here is a foreman for a large construction company as is his son, and I borrow tools from them. I have done most kinds of remodeling and built several houses so the rough carpentry and drywalling is fine...I just have to learn to use the tools well to become accomplished at the finishing side. I am pretty meticulous so it will come.

thanks for the advice on the gear! I will add it to my growing book of research :D

[John Sanford]

I'm going to address the clamps.

1. Two 12” F-style - need more, 4+

2. Six 4” F-style - need lots more. I'm going to be laminating up two 6' long x 1 1/4" by 3/4" stiles into 1 1/2" thick pieces, and I'll be using about a dozen "baby bessey's" (4" F clamps) for each, or more. These clamps are cheap, $5 apiece at the BORG herabouts.

3. Eight 12” parallel jaw - more, say a dozen. Parallel jaw clamps are HEAVY, and so you'll find yourself using the absolute shortest clamp you can when you're using multiples on a project.

4. Fourteen 26” parallel jaw - may be overkill.

5. Four 40” parallel jaw

6. Four handscrews, large size - go with 2 large, 2 medium.

7. Four quick-release plastic clamps

8. Eight spring clamps

I'd suggest 4 50"+ parallel jaw clamps as well.

4 Pipe clamps along with pipe.

2-4 DEEP reach clamps, such as these - Jorgensen 4700 Series Deep Reach Steel Bar Clamps (http://www.adjustableclamp.com/bl-4700cp.htm)

What you don't appear to list are the Quick-Grip clamps, and their imitators. I would suggest that you get at least a dozen 6" mini-Quick Grips (wait for them to go on sale, they often do as a pack of 4 for $20). These are the most used clamps in my shop, and yes, I've often used all of the 10 I have and wished for more. And yes, get the QuickGrips in the "mini" size, none of the imitators match up.

2-4 12" mini-Quick Grips.

Get a pair of EVERY SIZE of the Jorgensen ISD bar clamps. (http://www.adjustableclamp.com/isd33000.htm) These are far more comfortable to use than the comparably sized Irwin Quick Grips, give clamping pressure between the QG and the Heavy Duty QG, and can be reversed as spreaders. In short, they are very, very useful. The one-handed clamps allow you to get a clamp on something to keep it from shifting, and then, if needed, you can put the big honkers on as well. With these, you'll rarely need more than a pair of a size, at least the way I work with them. I'd love to trade my 6", 12" and 24" Quick Grips (full size, not mini) in for Jorgensen ISDs, heck, if anybody wants to trade a 6", 2 12" and 2 24" QGs for a pair of 12" and 24" ISDs, let me know. (Yup, that extra 6" is to sweeten the deal.)

Depending on your cabinet construction methods, the Cabinet Claws from Pony can be very, very useful. Expensive, special purpose, yes, but mighty handy if it suits the work.

Also, some sort of corner clamping solution is recommended, makes getting things square easier.

For your tablesaw, I'd suggest the Sawstop. Yes, its pricey, and you can search and find lots of pro/con arguments for it, but it is reputed to be a very good saw in its own right, with the added safety. Is the added safety worth it? Nope, not if you never need it. Kinda like fire insurance on your house, if you never use it its money down the tubes. When you do use it, its money very, very well spent.

I would seriously consider looking at a combination jointer/planer rather than the separate machines. You can search other threads here that have a discussion of the pros and cons of the combis.

I would also add a trim router (the Bosch Colt seems to be the pick of the litter now). Park your standard roundover bit in it and it will always be handy.

On right angle drills, my understanding is that the Sioux (which they also make and re-badge for Milwaukee) is the top of the class.

You included a trio of pneumatic nailers, but left off a narrow crown stapler. The NCS is the best air tool for fastening thin sheet goods, such as cabinet backs. Brads are almost useless for thin sheet goods, as they've got minimal heads. Heck, next time you're in a hardware store, take a look at the paneling nails. Lit'l thin guys with big heads. Either figure on hand nailing 1/8"-1/4" sheet goods, or go with a NCS.

Finally, as you're going to be doing remodeling and such, a Fein Mutli-Master may be called for.

You've got an awful lot of sanding equipment there, and yet no hand sanding? (Preppin' Weapons, great beasties!) No hand-held power sanding? And no shop-vac? The Festool sanders and shopvac may be in order. Yes, pricey, but very good dust pickup and no shrieking. You'll need a good shopvac for all the dust you'll be generating inside the house anyhow, might as well get a quiet one. Or look at the commercial shop vacs aimed at the drywallers.

[Todd McGeachy]

Hey John,
That list of stationary tools is for reference when I design the shop and plan out the electrical. I may or may not buy it all at once but I want to plan for the expansion.Below is my beginner and intermediate list of supplies. I have gleaned the info from various sources. Perhaps it will be of some value to others as I hone it from the advice and research I do,
much like the other list. I have added in many of your suggestions as well as those from the other folks.
The prices are from the Canadian chain store "House of Tools" unless noted otherwise. Mainly to give me a rough idea of cost. Note some of the gear on both lists is construction orientated as I made notes of items I didn't have or will not be taking with me when I go.


STAGE I (Beginner - intermediate gear)
BENCHES
Build Work Benches
Build Rolling Tool Cabinet
Build Cabinetmaker's Workbench
Horizontal Storage Unit - 20 Bin $99.95
Build Shop Cart
Build 2 sawhorses
Build "New Yankee Workshop" clamp cart

POWER TOOLS
Dewalt XRP™ 14.4V Cordless Drill-Driver Kit $239.00 DEW DC930KA
Dewalt 14.4V XRP Battery $109.99
or perhaps...
Makita 14.4V 1/2'' MXT Driver-Drill Kit $269.00
Makita 14.4V NiCd Twin Pack Batteries $124.95

Milwaukee Right Angle Attachment $79.99 CAD

Milwaukee 7-1/4'' Heavy Duty Circular Saw $219.99
Milwaukee Rip Fence Kit, Model# 49-22-4146 $11.90 Amazon
straightedge fence
circular saw miter jig

Dewalt DEW DW718 12" Heavy Duty Double-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw $699.00
Build Support Table
Bosch 1590EVSK 6.4 Amp Top Handle Jigsaw $179.99 CAD
Bosch 10 Piece Assorted Jig Saw Blades $15.99 CAD
Bosch 1250DEVS Dual-Mode Random Orbit Sander (6") $234.11
Bosch BOS 1617EVSPK 2-1/4 HP Router Combination Set $329.99
Bosch Colt VS Palm Router $149.99
Bosch Deluxe Router Edge Guide $79.95

Dewalt Deluxe Trim Boss Compressor Kit $379.00 (1'' Narrow Crown Stapler)
Bostitch FN16250K-2 16 Gauge 1-1/4” 2-1/2” Finish Nailer
Bostitch BT200K-2 18 Gauge 5/8-Inch to 2-Inch Brad Nailer
Bostitch HP118K 23 Gauge ½” - 1-3/16” Pin Nailer

Dewalt VSR Drywall Screwdriver $109.99

Milwaukee MIW 6509-20 Sawzall Reciprocating Saw $139.99

MEASURING & MARKING
Pioneer 16ft/5m Tape Measure $5.99
Pioneer 33' (10m) Tape Measure $8.99
Force 12'' x 1-1/8'' Stainless Steel Ruler $8.99
Starrett 6 Foot Wooden Folding Ruler $20.95
12" Starrett® Square/Miter & Rule $86.50 Lee Valley
Sands 48'' Aluminum Ruler $8.95
Veritas® Sliding Bevel $52.50 Lee Valley
Pioneer Sliding Bevel $4.99 CAD
Straight Edge Cutting Guide $29.99
Pioneer Router - Table Depth Gauge $4.99
SS Cabinetmaker's Rule set of 4 (24",18",12",6") $28.50 Lee Valley
Veritas® Sliding Square, Imperial $36.50 Lee Valley
6" sliding square
4" sliding square
Compass
Pioneer Rafter Layout Square $6.99
Universal Angle Finder $17.99
Sands Carpenters Square $8.95
Pioneer Marking Gauge $29.99
Pioneer Protractor and Saw Guide $19.99
Pioneer Sliding Bevel $4.99
Sands 48'' Mahogany Level $59.95
Johnson Mark-In-Mount Level $17.99
Irwin 48'' I-Beam Level with Bonus Torpedo $46.73
Dewalt Self-Leveling Line Laser (Horz & Vert) $189.99
Dewalt Tripod Construction Grade $134.99
Pioneer Line Level $0.99
Pioneer Bulls Eye Level $1.99
Pioneer Carpenter's Pencils 12 Pack $3.99
Johnson Lumber Crayon 3 Pack $2.65
Irwin Strait-Line Chalk Line $13.99
Task 8oz Brass Plumb Bob $16.25
Starrett Adhesive Tape Rule 1/2X12ft SAE/MET $10.95
Force 6'' Depth Gauge $8.99
36'' Flexible Rule $9.99

DRILL BITS ECETERA
Pioneer 25 Piece Brad Point Bit Set $29.99
Pioneer 7 Piece Stop Collar Set $8.99
Polytech 5 PC Snappy Countersinks $26.00
Pioneer 3 Piece Vix Bit Set $14.99
Pioneer 16 Piece Forstner Bit Set $49.99
Pioneer 6 Piece Auger Bit Set $19.99
Dewalt 14 Piece Pilot Point® Drill Bit Set $22.99
Set of spade bits
Brace, 8”, 10” and 12”
Auger bit file
Dimar Adjustable Carbide Countersink $26.60
Rockler/Insty-Drive 18 Piece Self-Centering & Countersink Set $79.99
Kreg K3 Master System $169.99
Kreg RAC Right Angle Clamp
Kreg PFC Face Clamps 3-1/4-Inch Premium Face Clamp
Kreg SKO2 Pocket Hole Screw Kit

SAWS
Classic Gent's Saw $24.50 Lee Valley
Japanese Standard Dozuki Saw $58.00 Lee Valley
Irwin Marathon 20'' Handsaw $18.99
Irwin Dovetail Pull Saw $13.99
Olson Deluxe Coping Saw $14.95
Coping blades coarse medium and fine

HAND PLANES
Veritas® Bevel-Up Jointer Plane, A2 $289.00 Lee Valley
Veritas® Bevel-Up Jointer Fence $39.50 Lee Valley
Veritas® #4-1/2 Smoothing Plane, A2 $239.00 Lee Valley
Veritas® Low-Angle Block Plane, A2 $149.00 Lee Valley
Japanese Wooden Chamfer Plane $45.50 Lee Valley
***Pioneer Radius Plane $27.45
***Two Cherries 9'' Curved Drawknife $49.99
***Stanley SpokeShave – Flat Base $27.99

SCRAPERS
Veritas® Cabinet Scraper $65.00 Lee Valley
Veritas® Tri-Burnisher $32.50 Lee Valley
Super-Hard Curved Scraper Sets 0.6mm $14.50 Lee Valley

CHISELS
Narex Bevel-Edge Chisels Set of 8 $79.00 Lee Valley
Pioneer 6 Piece Palm Handle Carving Set $16.99
Rollins 4-1/2'' Beech Mallet $11.99 CAD
*inexpensive chisels in 1/4" and 3/4" for the rough carpentry
*Mortise chisels, ¼”, 5/16”, 3/8”
*Paring chisel, 2” wide
*Skew chisels, left and right
*Corner chisel, 3/8”

FILES & RASPS
Nicholson Pattern Maker's Rasps Pattern Maker's #50 $52.50 Lee Valley
Veritas® Auxiliary File/Rasp Handle $19.50 Lee Valley
Wood and Cabinet Rasps Lee Valley
8" Cabinet Rasp (second) $16.50 Lee Valley
10" Cabinet Rasp (smooth) $19.80 Lee Valley
8" Cabinet Rasp (smooth) $15.00 Lee Valley
Wood and Cabinet Files Lee Valley
10" Cabinet (second) $13.40 Lee Valley
8" Cabinet (second) $9.60 Lee Valley
10" Wood (bastard) $12.30 Lee Valley
Self-Threading File Handles Lee Valley
Handle for 8" File, each $5.00 Lee Valley
Handle for 10" & 12" File $5.20 Lee Valley
Nicholson Milled-Tooth Files 8" Flat File $27.50 Lee Valley
*Floats, ¼” mortising float, bed float

SHARPENING
Professional Cabinetmaker's Sharpening Sets $149.50 Lee Valley
8000x Gold Stone $60.50 Lee Valley
Plastic Stand for 6", 8", 10" Stones $18.50 Lee Valley
Monocrystalline Bench Stone 6" Diamond – 220x $57.50 Lee Valley
Monocrystalline Bench Stone 6" Diamond – 1200x $57.50 Lee Valley
1µ Diamond Paste $14.50 Lee Valley
Plant mister
Mineral oil
General International 6'' VS Bench Grinder $149.99
Force Heavy Duty Bench Grinder Stand $79.99
Deluxe Power Sharpening Set $96.00 Lee Valley
*Eclipse honing guide
*Hand blocks (medium and fine)
*Mill file
*Cheap 6” stainless ruler
*Kell honing guide

PERCUSSIVE
Veritas® Cabinetmaker's Mallet $36.50 Lee Valley
3-1/2 oz Warrington Hammer $25.90 Lee Valley
10 oz Warrington Hammer $27.90 Lee Valley
Clip-On Hammer Holder $6.90 Lee Valley
8 oz Oval Hammer $10.95 Lee Valley
Pioneer 32oz Dead Blow Hammer $24.99
Fuller 3PC Bull's Eye Nail Set $9.99
Michigan 3 Piece Rubber Mallet Set $14.99
Fuller 3PC Bull's Eye Nail Set $9.99
*16 oz. hammer
*Plane-iron hammer

NAIL PULLER
Forged Nail Puller $18.50 Lee Valley
Shark 11-3/4'' Nail Puller $19.95

SCREWDRIVERS
4 Piece Cabinet Maker's Screwdriver Set $42.99
http://www.garrettwade.com/product.asp?pn=37j01.08&bhcd2=1231415703
Mastercraft 25-piece Screwdriver Set $49.99 Canadian Tire
1. Complete set of screwdrivers, Phillips, straight, Robertson
2. Set of index bit and driver for drill/driver

GLUE
Titebond III glue?

CLAMPS
Jorgenson Pony Pipe Clamp for 3/4'' Pipe $17.99
4 x Standard 3/4'' Black Pipe - 3 feet $9.99 CAD (most usefull)
2 x Standard 3/4'' Black Pipe - 4 feet $11.99
2 x Standard 3/4'' Black Pipe - 5 feet $13.99
2 x Standard 3/4'' Black Pipe - 6 feet $15.99
2 x Standard 3/4'' Black Pipe - 8 feet $19.99

*Pioneer 24'' Single Sided Edge Clamp $11.95
*Pioneer 36'' Single Sided Edge Clamp $12.99
*Pioneer 72'' Deep Reach Aluminum Bar Clamp $23.99
*Pioneer 60'' Deep Reach Aluminum Bar Clamp $19.99
*Pioneer 48'' Deep Reach Aluminum Bar Clamp $17.99
*Pioneer 24'' Deep Reach Aluminum Bar Clamp $10.99

2 x Bessey H.D. Deep Jaw 16'' Tradesman Clamp $41.95
2 x Bessey H.D. Deep Jaw 24'' Tradesman Clamp $48.95
12 x Pioneer 12'' Parallel Jaw Cabinet Clamp $29.99
8 x Pioneer 31'' Parallel Jaw Cabinet Clamp $32.99
4 x Pioneer 40'' Parallel Jaw Cabinet Clamp $39.99
4 x Pioneer 50'' Parallel Jaw Cabinet Clamp $44.99

Pioneer 4 Piece Bench Dogs $16.95
Pioneer 4 Piece Clamp Stands $14.95

6 x Bessey 12'' Bar Clamp $28.30 CAD
2 x Bessey 2-1/2'' x 12'' Bar Clamp $14.95
6 x Bessey 2-1/2'' x 6'' Bar Clamp $13.95

2 x 14" Wooden Handscrews $39.50 Lee Valley
2 x 8" Wooden Handscrews $23.50 Lee Valley

*2 x Jorgensen ISD bar clamps 6" Bar
*2 x Jorgensen ISD bar clamps 12" Bar
*2 x Jorgensen ISD bar clamps 18" Bar
*2 x Jorgensen ISD bar clamps 24" Bar
*2 x Jorgensen ISD bar clamps 36" Bar

Pony 8510BP Cabinet Claw (2-Pack) $58.23 Amazon
Assorted quick-release Quick-Grip clamps = (4 x 12" mini-Quick Grips) Pack of minis
Bessey 6 Piece Band Clamp Set $15.74?
Bessey Band Clamp 23' Strap $52.49?
Pioneer 3 Piece C-Clamp Set One each of 2'', 3'' and 4'' $10.99
90° Assembly Braces (pair) $35.50 Lee Valley
Spring Clamp Set (8 clamps)
Surgical Tubing (Pharmacy)

MISCELANEOUS
Sloyd shop knife
Paraffin
Needlenose pliers, locking pliers
Putty knife
Two drawbore pins
Spray gun cleaning kit
Wide and varied collection of screws, nails, bolts, nuts, hardware
Hemp string, for measuring diagonals

SAFETY & CLEAN-UP
North Safety Faceshield w Headgear $21.95
Tornado Clear Lens Safety Glasses $8.45
North Safety Sky Blue Hard Hat $10.50
North Safety Ultimate Protection Ear Muffs $31.10
North Safety PVC Foam Ear Plugs $25.95
North N95 Reusable Particulate Respirator $19.95
North Safety N95 Particulate Filter $17.25
Disposable Powder Free Vinyl Gloves. L $7.75
Grain Cowhide with Palm Patch Work Glove - Large $11.95
Cotton & PVC Gloves $3.95
Nitrile Disposable Gloves - Large $12.99
kevlar gloves
North Safety Eye Wash Bottle $27.38
North Safety 18 Person First Aid Kit $43.65 (Check Pharmacy)
General International Air Filtration System $469.00
500W Twin Head Halogen Work Light on Tripod $39.99 Canadian Tire
Giant Metal Dust Pan $9.95
Pioneer Hardwood Dolly $26.99
Pioneer Counter Brush $4.99
Shop Vac 8 Gallon Wet-Dry Vacuum $269.95


STAGE II
G0514X2B 19" 3 HP Bandsaw
G7314 Heavy-Duty Mobile Base
bandsaw blade
Lenox Diemaster2, 1/2", bimetal, 6 tpi (hook style)?
timberwolf 3/4” 3 tooth blade?

G0490 Jointer
H8803 Shelix Cutterhead 8" (G0490)
G0453 15" Planer
H7768 15" Shelix Cutterhead
G2857 Thickness Gauge
G1738 Rotacator® For Planers

I have been given the suggestion to elminate the two above in favor of this model:
G0634 12" Jointer / Planer w/ Spiral Cutterhead
G7315 Super Heavy-Duty Mobile Base (It seems many preople are having difficulties wth this base?)

Leaning towards the Saw Stop 10'' 3HP Table Saw over G0651 10" Heavy-Duty Cabinet Table Saw (John's point about fingers versus $1500 difference is noted :)
G4227 Sliding Table For Table Saws & Shapers
H7583 Tenoning Jig
G8984 Single Roller Stand

G0448 Heavy-Duty Mortiser With Stand
G7314 Heavy-Duty Mobile Base
H7789 Mortising Attachment Kit
H2549 Mortising Chisels Set of 4 - 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 1/2"
H2548 3/4" Mortising Chisel
H2547 5/8" Mortising Chisel
H2548 3/4" Mortising Chisel
H7560 Mortise Marking Gauge
H7551 Dovetail Square, 3"
H7978 Fractional Digital Caliper

G0441 3 HP Cyclone Dust Collector
H7509 Stand for G0441
G0627 40" x 20" Downdraft Table w/ Stand
G9956 Remote Controlled Heavy-Duty Double Air Filter
H2452 Rear Filter for G9956

G7948 12 Speed 20" Floor Drill Press
G5753 Drill Press Vise - 6"
G7314 Heavy-Duty Mobile Base

G1026 3 HP Shaper
G4839 3" Dust Hood for G1026 Shaper
G7314 Heavy-Duty Mobile Base

G2910 4" Shaper Spindle Fits Grizzly® G1026
G2606 3" Moulding Head w/ 1" Bore
G3030 Shaper Handbook
G4181 1 HP Power Feeder

G1495 Heavy-Duty Wood Lathe (Will likely put the lathe on hold and will instead get a better
bandsaw.)
H1064 6-Piece Deluxe HSS Lathe Chisel Set
T10010 10" Wet Grinder Kit
T10023 Accessory Kit #1 for T10010
T10024 Accessory Kit #2 for T10010
T10025 Blade Sharpening Jig for T10010

G1066Z 24" Drum Sander w/ VS
G7315 Super Heavy-Duty Mobile Base
G1276 Combination Sander 6" x 48" Belt 12" Disc 1725 RPM
G1220 12" Sanding Disc various PSA, 2 pc.

G0564 Oscillating Edge Sander 3 HP
G7315 Super Heavy-Duty Mobile Base

G1071 Oscillating Spindle Sander
G8683 Mini Mobile Base

G1512 Pro-Stik® Abrasive Belt & Disc Cleaner 2" x 2" x 12"
G3608 3" Dia. x 9" Sanding Sleeve, various

Grizzly G7910 Hand Held Edge Bander
G7911 Trimmer - Double Edge
G8673 Blades for G7911 Edge Trimmer

JLT 8' Panel rack

And finally, is the Router Boss 470 or the MASTER Joinery Complete Dovetail Jointmaking
Package worth investing in in light of the above list...


And finally, I am beat...I'll leave the list here for now and take another crack at some of the details tomorrow...

[Mike Wellner]

It does not hurt to buy used machinery, and plus some examples are superior to most of the newer brands.

I could use more clamps, Im setting up mine in borrowed space. Just need to set up and repower my vintage Delta 17" DP, and aquire a production router with shopmade table along with building a 4x8 mobile workbench.
Of the miter saw, tablesaw, bandsaw, jointer, drill press, oscillating spindle sander, I have aquired all of this equipment except for the Dewalt miter saw and 13" DeWalt Planer in the past year

1) Ridgid 6" jointer $429
2) Ridgid Oscilating Spindle Sander $200
3) Used Delta 14" bandsaw $490
4) Used 1953 Delta 17" DP $620 (120ish shipping included)
5) Used Delta 34-444 tablesaw $450 (upgraded from 36-600)

Plus DW735 at $500 and the DW705 being bought about 8 years ago for close to $300. Also forgot to add my Porter Cable oilless 25 gallon 175 PSI compressor $379. (Have a free Saylor Beale, but need to verify tank is in good shape internally and replace the air pump.)

That brings it out to $3368

Point is buying used equipment can be less of a investment especially in a shaky housing market, and requires a less break even cost.

So that puts my

[Mike Null]

Have you considered buying a Woodcraft store?

[Mike Heidrick]

Forgive me....Your attention to detail is awesome. It is cracking me up actually - especially the occasional question mark. I lost it when I read "Surgical Tubing (Pharmacy)" and "Hemp string, for measuring diagonals".

Can't wait to see the list of wood.

138 bdft 6.625" wide red oak
163 bdft of 7.653" wide of hard maple
soft maple?
39 bdft bubinga
1678 1.5"X3.5"X96" Pine stock
2147 2" wide pine stickers
......

[Randy Klein]

Have you considered buying a Woodcraft store?

That may be cheaper...

[Todd McGeachy]

Mike Null: Actually you know, it isn't a big deal. My Kawasaki Ninja was $14500 when I bought it years ago and my brother spent more on a couple of snowmachines in the last few years. I actually think you get a lot for you money, and it will last. I once had to buy a footpeg and it cost $115 and weighed less tha a ounce... and if you have ever bought a set of downhill skis, pass and gear, well that is close to a sawstop easy.
My job is to organize workflow and keep track of supplies and research and implement lean manufacturing programs so I think that way. Also I will have to drive 3+ hours to get a clamp if I am short one, it looks like so I would like to know what I will be needing :P I also gave a lot of tools to my little brother who is renovating and am starting fresh here with better gear.

Mike Wellner: Thanks Mike, I am watching and intend to pick up what I can as I go, as I said it is a refrence list. Hope I am as lucky as you :)

Mike Heidrick: We use surgical tubing as a inexpensive replacement on our Muller Martini hopper guides and get it very cheap from a pharmacy, it's a note to self to check there first.

We also use a double sided transfer tape on the press rollers to mount velcros to avoid adhesive overspray, then wrap the ends in filament tape to prevent unwinding. Both of which may work well for people wrapping rollers since we run continuously under load too.

Since I have to have all lumber shipped to me I likely have to keep a close eye on amount versus shipping weight.

[Mike Wellner]

$14,500 Canadian for a Kawasawki in Canada?:eek:

$14500 US will get you an fatboy.

[Todd McGeachy]

Yes :) Sick huh. try looking at tools then look at a Canadian retailer... it's just sad.

They usually mark-up 30% or more.... :P

I was looking for the best price for a sawstop 3Hp cabinet saw and one of their dealers here was asking $4200...

Up until the last six months you could go south and buy a bike or vehicle for close to half in the used market, and save at least $10-$15K on the new. They are closer now since the dealers woke up to the numbers doing this and hard times hit. Prices are much more reasonable now, at least in some provinces, Alberta is just starting to feel things now with its oil based economy.

I was actually looking for a Fatboy in the US, (long rides on a sportbike just won't be the fun they were), but the riding season is too short where I will be now :P

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Todd, a very impressive list indeed.

If it were me however, and I was going to spend that amount of money to get started, I'd do it differently.

I started out with seperate machines, mostly general, good made in Canada stuff.

However, in Toronto I now have a Felder dealer (there's one in Calgary, Winnipeg and Vancouver I believe also).

I purchased a Hammer A3-31 jointer planer and now have a 12 inch jointer and planer that is superb.

The Felder/Hammer/Mini Max stuff is superb, and is available in seperates, in combinations such as jointer/planer, saw/shaper or 5 function combinations.

The European machines have better quality, capabilities, performance , functions and safety features than is available with North American or imported equipment.

I'd start there, take a long serious look at the capabilities of the Euro machines, and you won't be upgrading in 10 years.

Dust collection is also a must and Oneida are one of the best. There is a dealer in Ontario that has great prices, fantastic service, and they ship anywhere in Canada.

Best wishes, welcome to the creek.........Rod.

[Sonny Edmonds]

Turn Back!
Turn Back!
It's a trap! :D

[Todd McGeachy]

Nice. :) Thanks for the advice Rod, and especially Sonny :D

Again this is just a wish list that is evolving over the next year.. the hand tools and such will start picking up soon, but will be watching for deals over the next year.

I am pretty confident that whatever I buy will pay for itself quickly with the work I plan for it.

Obviously tho it is the time to troll for good used kit. At the end of the year I will see what I have. And I guess you will to, since I will adjust the list...

Thanks for the advice Rod I will look into those, that is just what I was looking for. I am buying a lot of Lee Valley since much of it is made in Canada. Please PM the contact info for the dealers you mentioned.

[Clint Schlosser]

Fine wood working has a good article about setting up your first shop and the tools necessary. Have you subscibed to this magazine and the online content. It might be a good idea to do some digging there. About one year ago I started piecing my shop together and the advice I received there was fairly good.

I would agree however that you piece your shop together as each project you take on comes up. It might take a year or more, but you will really get what you need and keep the excess out of the shop.

An example is what I am doing. I have a list of things I want to build and then I plan my tool purchases for the next project so they are here and ready when the time comes. This also gives me the time to deal search. In the mean time I finishing my current project. Does that make sense? This way its like christmas all the time with new tools that exand with your experience level.

I think your list is very comprehensive and you may want to step back from the details and think through some of your goals. It may help you prioritize and decide on what you are building rather than on what you are buying.

[Todd McGeachy]

Good point, and I appreciate it.

I have been looking at the MiniMax LAB 300N Universal Combined $7532 (new), and the SCMI (Mini Max) CU 300K $8900 (used). They might be a better solution in 6 months or so when I feel comfortable with the hand tools enough to speed up my work on things.

Yup, I knew I was a good year away from setting up my shop so I was having fun mentally shopping, but I think I may work with the hand tools for awhile first and just keep putting funds in the bank for when I see a deal.

Thanks for the advice :)

[Brett Nelson]

Todd,

You mentioned in the beginning stages that you intend to get the Bosch 1590EVSK Jigsaw. I almost got that one too as they come highly recommended, but I would suggest you get the 1587 instead. The 1590 doesn't work with a collin's coping foot, and I think you would be wise to get one, especially with a remodel and all.

[Terry Brogan]

not trying to be nosey and certainly not criticism, but you do realize that there's fifty grand of tooling on your list, easy. Adding in the shop itself, double that or triple. I say this having toted up what I've spent over the past ten years. I could've bought another house with it. Not a great house, but a house. Startup costs in ww are just staggering. And yet, in two or three centuries ago, they build Federal highboys with hand tools. This says the tooling isn't the thing.

[Andy Pratt]

Todd,

I started my woodworking in a way similiar to you a few years ago. I had a lot of money and had done a good bit of research on the tools, frequented forums etc. I tried to buy the best of everything, and something decent and resellable in areas I thought I might upgrade later. Here's a rollup from what I thought I did right and what I would change, with hindsight hopefully being 20/20:

1. Definitely get the spiral cutterheads on Jointer/Planer, I didn't do this and it's a world of difference. I wouldn't cut these out from your budget for any reason
2. Get a 12" jointer right off the bat, it's extremely inefficient and annoying to have to rip and edge glue boards back up, 12" will handle 95% of what you're getting if your supply is average I think. 8" will probably handle more like 70-80% if I had to guess. I started with a 6" and I wish I had started higher.
3. I purchased a mortiser and don't find myself using it nearly as often as I had thought. Couldn't ever get the holes to come out very clean and gravitated toward other joinery methods. For the amount I use it, it might not be worth the shop space.
4. Buy high quality router bits as needed or on sale. Kits generally include a lot you will never use, so I would purchase individually.
5. A jet mini lathe with bed extension is an inexpensive, small option if you're waiting on a lathe purchase. You have something to make spindles with right now, and if you ever upgrade you still have a useful tool for small projects.
6. Pick a basic board width you want to work with in your shop, and choose your tools sizes accordingly. If it's 8", the tools you selected all seem to line up. If you go to 12" with the jointer, you may want to upgrade to a sliding miter saw and a larger planer (to handle larger, 2 board panels) to make everything complement each other better.

Hope this was helpful. Obviously our situations may be very different, but I wanted to offer my reflections on purchases. Also, consider the Sawstop, it's a very high quality saw in it's own right, and the safety feature adds a large intangible value depending on your personal outlook.

Andy

[Darius Ferlas]

Holy macaroni! What a list!

I bought a dozen Bessey clamps last weekend on sale and I'm still bleeding slightly.


This isn't a list for a beginning woodworker. This is a list of a woodworker who just signed a million dollar contract with the US Army or some such organization with deep pockets!

[Rod Sheridan]

not trying to be nosey and certainly not criticism, but you do realize that there's fifty grand of tooling on your list, easy. Adding in the shop itself, double that or triple. I say this having toted up what I've spent over the past ten years. I could've bought another house with it. Not a great house, but a house. Startup costs in ww are just staggering. And yet, in two or three centuries ago, they build Federal highboys with hand tools. This says the tooling isn't the thing.


Hi Terry, I would disagree somewhat with your statement that the tooling isn't the thing.

My FIL retired several years ago after serving apprenticeships in England 60 years ago, and he has the hand tools required of anyone who went the Master Cabinetmaker route.

Row upon row of planes, each one specialized to do one job, same for chisels, saws, drills, layout tools etc.

I was looking at one of his bullnose planes one day when I mentioned casually that it was a nice plane. His retort was that it should be, be spent a fortnight's wages on it in 1946.

I was stunned, as we can buy a Lee Valley or LN plane for less than a day's wages today.

Same for machinery, I guess in England he'd have been buying Wadkin or something similar, at astounding prices, in line with Oliver or Felder Kappa or Format machinery.

No cheap knockoff's then, just industrial machinery and expensive hand tools.

If you didn't have the tools to do the job fast, you went out of business, and fast meant specialized tools that did one thing well.

Of course we now may have more tools than we need, such as router dovetail jigs, and dovetail markers etc.

When he was teaching me to cut dovetails, I was drawing all sorts of lines, making scratches with the marking gauges etc.

He grabbed the marking gauge, set it by using the side of the drawer, made two quick scribes and put it down.

He picked up the saw, made a few cut marks on the piece by eye, and sawed the tails.

Work progressed as fast on the pins, a marking knife and pencil, a saw and chisel, a complete joint on the drawer was done in a minute or less.

His comment was that nobody paid you for pencil lines, just completed drawers.

I'd still be looking for the wrench for the router by the time he'd made all the drawers!

You are correct however that people can make outstanding work using a handsaw, a plane and a wooden spoon, however they can't make a living doing that unless they're James Krenov.

Regards, Rod.

[Terry Brogan]

I agree that we now spend proportionately much less money on tools which are of such quality as to be ten times better, let's say. But in the eighteenth century, they offset the tooling quality problem with Apprentices, if not slaves, to do the grunt work, neutralizing the time difference. Your FIL is quite right that, in order to survive in a commercial shop setting, time is money. His decades of experience allow him to economize every movement; he knows exactly what to do, how, for how long. That's experience, not tooling. All those folks who insist on hand tools to the exclusion of power tools are using dramatically superior tooling and their experience to make custom furniture, on the expectation that they can (or could!) get a premium in the marketplace for hand-made things. The rest of us use a dovetail jig, or machine, and a router, to get the thing done. I love hand tools. But i can make drawers faster than your FIL can, I'm pretty sure. Two hundred years ago, your FIL was a master carpenter, with apprentices. I'd have worked for him.

[David Keller NC]

Todd - Besides the completeness of your list, (and the jealousy that it seems to have elicited :D), something strikes me about it that may be a mistake.

Don't buy a whole shop full of stationary power tools, and for that matter, hand tools, from one manufacturer all at once. Tool choice is a very individual thing, and 2 months after having bought a shopful of Grizzly power tools, you might find that you hate Grizzly's products. Same goes with the handtools - there are some that like Lee Valley to the exclusion of Lie Nielsen, some that like LN to the exclusion of LV, and some of us that have both. Heck, you may find that you prefer wooden planes - there are very good logical reasons to choose woodies over metal versions.

With that in mind, I'm going to suggest just one progression, with the stationary power tool list - I'll let others suggest a natural progression for the clamps, marking and measuring, planes, chisels, clamps, etc...

Stationary Power Tools:

First Table saw, router table (with the router, of course), and drill press. This will let you build most anything with sheet goods and S4S lumber.

Second Planer and a jointer (or planer and a fore plane, jointer plane and smoother if you'd rather forego the jointer). These tools will let you work with rough lumber which is often of better quality and cheaper than S4S stock.

Third Bandsaw. This will let you cut large curves cleanly (can be done with a jigsaw, but not as neatly or in as thick of a material) and resaw boards. If you so choose, you could actually buy the bandsaw first and use it as a substitute for the Table Saw, assuming you also buy the jointer or hand planes at the same time to deal with the rough edges.

Fourth Specialized stationary power tools as needed, such as a mortiser, sanding station, etc...

Somewhere along here you will need to build your first iteration of the most important tool in the shop - your workbench. Building it will quickly point out extra things you'll need, like clamps, drill bit sets, etc...

I'll tell you that I bought several stationary power tools that are no longer in my shop, because I hated them and replaced them with something more to my liking. I didn't have that much invested, so it didn't sting too much, but I'd have been hating life if I'd bought an all-Dewalt shop, an all-Delta shop, all-Jet shop, etc... - You get the idea.

The small amount of money you're going to save on freight will look pretty paltry if you make a major mistake on a big, expensive power tool.