Inset hinges, free swinging?

[brent lenthall]

I'm trying to find the right combination of hinges and magnetic catches for inset doors on my bedroom built-ins.

Details:

Cabinets are face frame construction (sides not flush with door opening) with raised panel full inset doors. I would like euro style concealed hinges and a
"press to open" type catch.

I found Blum full inset hinges at the local Woodcraft for FF, but they only have 4 in stock and are $10/ door. 8 doors on this project, and I'd like to find a better long term solution as I prefer inset doors and FF construction. A local cabinet supply has Amerock hinges for $2.40/door, but they are for frameless cabinets. I know I can order Blum hinges for less $, but with shipping I'm still paying almost $10/door for hinges.

Q's) 1. Can I buy the framless inset hinges and mount them to spacer blocks?
2. Do I need free swinging hinges for the magnetic "press to open" catch? (I don't want to put handles or nobs on these doors)

thanks for helping on my first post.

brent

[Todd Burch]

Welcome to SawMillCreek Brent!

I went through this combination several months ago with a client that wanted built-in bookcases, with no hardware showing, magnetic push catches, face frames & inset raised panel doors. I was not able to locate a euro style hinge that was rated for "overtravel" - where it would allow the door to be pushed into the case to activate the push catch "push" release mechanism. It might be out there, but I couldn't find it. I ended up going with butt hinges and the client painted them to match the paint on the bookcases.

You might be able to use a knife hinge, or find a pivot-style hinge that is mortised into the top and bottom corners of the doors (like a swinging bar door).

Todd

[Joseph N. Myers]

I too welcome you to SawMillCreek Brent.

If your looking for a source for hinges, draw slides, and other like hardware, try CSH (Custom Service Harkware), 1-800-882-0009, www.cshardware.com (http://www.cshardware.com). Lots of people on this forum have recommended them. Their prices are quit reasonable (low in fact), but to get their wholesale pricing, you have to order $50.00 minimum (don't worry, they have so many good things at such good prices, you'll reach that easily).

Regards, Joe

[Jamie Buxton]

Brent --
Another good source for hardware is www.wwhardware.com. They have cup hinges at good prices, and lots of support documentation about how to choose and order them.

As for touch latches, I do my best to steer my customers away from them. The concept is fine, but all the latches I've ever tried feel cheesy, and they break too easily. Here's some alternatives --

* Design the door so you can hook a finger tip around an edge someplace. It doesn't take much to open a door. You can put an indentation in the face frame. Or you can make the door inset on three sides, but overlapping on one side -- generally the bottom. I've done this on kitchen cabinet uppers.

* Make part of the face frame a little door which is hinged at the top or the bottom. You push in on the little door with a finger, and then curl the tip sideways to hook the real door you want to open. The little door stays shut with a spring or gravity.

* Make your own mechanism. There's a button on the face frame. It can be flush, or can be somewhat proud. You push in on the button to push the door open a bit. Behind the button there is a lever somewhat like a see-saw which flips the door open. There's also a version of this which puts the button on the door, but the linkage behind is different.


Jamie

[Steve Jenkins]

I do quite a few inset doors with touch-latch for opening. I don't use face frames though. I have never had any problem using the euro hinges. There is enough give in the hinge to operate the touch-latch.I use free swinging hinges with touch-latches. If you can't find freeswinging you can take the spring out of the selfclosing ones. I have done that on both Blum and Grass. Steve

[brent lenthall]

Thanks for the ideas. The cabinets are already Painted (wifes choice, don't scold me) and installed. So I can't change the design without a lot of work.

I think I will install the free swinging euro hinges and do a test with the touch latch. If it doesn't have enough give, I'll install nobs. I would use a butt hinge as Todd suggested. However, because I built the doors after the cabinets, I may need the euro adjustment to cover slight errors.

BTW- Todd, I made the mistake of showing my wife your website. Great stuff, too much great stuff!

thanks again.

brent