Grizzly T10010 Wet Grinder Troubles

[Terry Liberty]

Hi folks.

I just purchased a model T10010 wet grinder and have some questions on its use.

First, when I work against the rotation of the grinder (with the wheel turning towards me) as described in the manual and I have a wide blade such as a plane iron, the blade scoops water off the wheel and dumps it over the sides of the wheel onto the grinder housing and all over the workbench and my lap. Am I doing something wrong? How can I prevent this?

Second, I have a diamond wheel dresser and cannot see how it can be held steady enough to shape the face of the wheel to a smooth flat surface. All I can get are a bunch of little grooves. Is this just a matter of skill or are there ways to keep the dresser steady and in a straight line across the wheel?

Thanks for considering this question. If it has been covered elsewhere I'll check out other links.

Terry

[Ben Franz]

I use a Jet diamond truing tool (DT-1 - Amazon has it) and a screw advancer from Tallowtree.com (TTA) - about the same total cost as the Tormek truing tool but I've read that the Tormek tool doesn't work on the T10010.

The manual says that working against rotation is for rough work only so I don't have any reason to do it. Might be the price you have to pay to get the rapid material removal. Most work should be done with the rotation direction.

Hope this helps.

[Danny Burns]

The water mess is just part of the drawbacks of using waterwheels.

The idea behind using water is to expose fresh grit on the wheel, and to keep things cool. At the low RPM these units turn at, it would be hard to burn a tool edge, if not impossible.

I had an old Lee Valley WaterWheel from years and years ago, and they installed a rubberized flap that removed most of the water from the wheel, which reduced the amount of water, but did not eliminate it entirely.

You could also just get the wheel soaked real well before sharpening, and then drop the water holder down or reduce the water level, so the surface of the water is just barely touching the wheel. This should reduce the amount of water on the wheel.

I also use an old cafeteria tray under my machine to catch the spill-off, and a shallow bottom plastic container, on the top of the machine, cut-off of an old juice jug to catch the water up top.

To prevent rusting, try coating the unit with a thin layer of wax. I used T-9 by Boeshield.

Finally I put a plastic laminate down on my sharpening station table top, so any spillage will not cause me problems in the long run.

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Don't worry about the lines left by the truing process, buy instead use the gritty stone surface to do the jobs that require 'hogging off' of metal, since the stone is in a very aggressive mode just after truing. Then when you use the grading stone, the lines will be long gone, and ready for finer work.

[Matt Meiser]

I also use an old cafeteria tray under my machine to catch the spill-off

I have aluminum cookie sheet in my shop that I bought for ~$10 from a local food-service supply store that I use under messy jobs like this. Since its aluminum, I can also use it when mixing finishes and cleaning up the spray gun, even with lacquer thinner.

[Douglas Brummett]

You can get by with a hand held multi-point dresser, but the ones like the tt-50 will give better results.

Water is an issue with these Tormek clones. It seems only the Jet can be slowed to the same speed as the Tormek. Additional speed is good for removing metal faster, but it comes with the penalty that more water is picked up on the wheel. About the only thing you can do is to try to contain and redirect the spilled water.

[Michael Faurot]

First, when I work against the rotation of the grinder (with the wheel turning towards me) as described in the manual and I have a wide blade such as a plane iron, the blade scoops water off the wheel and dumps it over the sides of the wheel onto the grinder housing and all over the workbench and my lap. Am I doing something wrong? How can I prevent this?


I have a similar grinder and a similar issue. As others have mentioned, this is a nominal situation with these water cooled wheels.



Second, I have a diamond wheel dresser and cannot see how it can be held steady enough to shape the face of the wheel to a smooth flat surface. All I can get are a bunch of little grooves. Is this just a matter of skill or are there ways to keep the dresser steady and in a straight line across the wheel?
Does your dresser look like this?
106061
I've not used these myself, but I believe they're only designed to be used with some type of jig.

I use one that looks like this:
106062
I just need to press that into the stone and then slide it back and forth a bit to get the surface flattened out. I do this with the aid of the tool rest, in a similar manner to the way one might work at a lathe.

[Terry Liberty]

Ben: The DT-1 looks interesting. My single point tool just gave up the ghost this afternoon.

Danny, Matt, Douglas: Some very good detailed advice. I'm in search of a cafeteria tray or something similar. I have some plastic laminate to cover the bench. I'll also have to move my stock of air dried wood to a different spot since it's now directly under the drips(!) In general, it looks like I may just have to deal with the water. I probably will need a stone grader too $$.

Michael: My recently deceased diamond dresser was single point like the one shown in the top photo. Where do you obtain the kind you use?

Many thanks to all for the very useful advice!!

Terry

[Michael Faurot]

Michael: My recently deceased diamond dresser was single point like the one shown in the top photo. Where do you obtain the kind you use?


Woodcraft has one here (http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=124670&FamilyID=223), which is what I've been using. Over in the Turner's Forum there's a recent thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=100678) about dressing tools you may want to look into with some other suggestions.

[Terry Liberty]

Michael:

Thanks much. I'll check it out.

Terry