Right Tilt Better than left ?

[Dale Morris]

Can anyone tell me why a right tilt is any better than a left tilt tablesaw? I'm going to be upgrading, this year, any feedback on the steel City 3 hp cabinet saw with granite top? Thanks in advance.


Dale Morris :)

[scott spencer]

Neither is "better". Tilt direction is really a matter of preference but there are differences both pro and con. The main advantage of left tilt is that the blade tilts away from the fence on a bevel cut, which is considered safer. But there's also the benefit that the arbor nut goes on from the right side, which favors putting it on with your right hand...it'll also have a normal thread orientation. Now for the downside...because the arbor flange is on the left, the right edge of the blade is registered to the zero reference of the tape cursor so blade thickness can effect the zero reference if you change blade thicknesses...like from full kerf to thin kerf. The work arounds are to either recalibrate the cursor, use a shim as a space to offset the thickness of a thinner blade, or measure by hand and ignore the saw's tape. There's also the benefit of having much lower likelihood of ever needing the rip capacity on the left side of the blade, meaning it's possible to slide the rail over to the right to gain some extra capacity on the right using the stock rails....you can get an extra 10" or so with most.

Right tilt has the arbor flange on the right, so the right side of the blade registers against the flange meaning blade thickness changes don't make any difference. The blade tilts to the right toward the fence which creates a bit of a hazard....the work around is to move the fence to the left of the blade and do bevel cuts on that side, which is a less familiar operation, so has different hazards in itself. The arbor nut mounts from the left side and has reverse thread orientation, which requires left hand mounting...it's a minor thing to some but I found it a constant nuisance that I'd rather not deal with.

I've owned both and prefer LT....YMMV.

[Dale Morris]

Very good explaination, thanks.

Dale

[Von Bickley]

Dale,

Left tilt for me. If you do a search, you should be able to find more information than you will need.

[Jim O'Dell]

The only time I can see that a right tilt would be preferred, to someone who is neutral on the subject :D, is if you were going to add a sliding table. Then it is better. At least that is what I understand. Never had a RT and never had a sliding table. Jim.

[glenn bradley]

Scott is right. I just want to get that out there so no one goes ballistic. Now that I have posted my disclaimer, I used to answer these questions (attempting humor) as: Left-tilt=right, right-tilt=wrong but folks got so excited they didn't get the joke. Hope you do. They are both "right", it's a preference-thing. I like left, I just "feel" safer.

[Jim Kountz]

Left tilt just happens to be what Im used to personally, although my friend has a right tilt unisaw and there are time I can see advantages for both. There is no right or wrong really.

[Curt Harms]

... Now that I have posted my disclaimer, I used to answer these questions (attempting humor) as: Left-tilt=right, right-tilt=wrong ,,,
I thought it was a Bay-area thing:D.

[Bill White]

and since the majority of saw uses are not tilted at all, I don't think that it amounts to a hill of frijoles. What ya learned on is what you're comfy with.
If I gotta do a bunch of rip miters, I just move the fence to the left side of the Freudilator.
Bill

[glenn bradley]

Freudilator

Bwah-ha-ha-ha. I just blew coffee all over my monitor. . . that was good.

[scott spencer]

Scott is right. I just want to get that out there so no one goes ballistic. Now that I have posted my disclaimer, I used to answer these questions (attempting humor) as: Left-tilt=right, right-tilt=wrong but folks got so excited they didn't get the joke. Hope you do. They are both "right", it's a preference-thing. I like left, I just "feel" safer.

It really boils down to your political view....left tilt for liberals, right tilt for conservatives. :D

[Jim O'Dell]

It really boils down to your political view....left tilt for liberals, right tilt for conservatives. :D

So what does that make us conservative left tilters? :confused::confused: Confused???:D Jim.

[Eric Schniewind]

Is that indeed true that cutting a bevel on a right tilt is more dangerous? My understanding is that the reasoning is that the board is wedged against the fence and therefore could bind up. But isn't that true for all straight cuts? The board is always wedged against the fence, it has to be in order to get the desired dimensions. Am I missing something?

[scott spencer]

Is that indeed true that cutting a bevel on a right tilt is more dangerous? My understanding is that the reasoning is that the board is wedged against the fence and therefore could bind up. But isn't that true for all straight cuts? The board is always wedged against the fence, it has to be in order to get the desired dimensions. Am I missing something?

For me, the safety bonuses of a left tilt aren't about binding issues, it's about having the teeth farther away from my hand.

[Alan DuBoff]

For me, the safety bonuses of a left tilt aren't about binding issues, it's about having the teeth farther away from my hand.
:confused:

Scott,

How would your hands be any farther from the blade, or any closer to the blade either way?

It is all a matter of orientation, the blade will be the same distance from the fence for the cut. I understand what you are saying, but it seems it's mostly because of habit, you feel more comfortable with the blade on the left side of the fence.

I have a right tilt saw, but used to have a left tilt. I like the orientation of the blade on the left side of the fence myself, however, seeing that I use my table saw for mostly ripping at 90 degrees, and do so on the left side of the blade anyway, there is really not much difference in use. I do make beveled cuts occasionally, just not very often as the table saw is really only used for dimensioning stock for me. One way around that situation is to use a sled, a lot of folks even do that on left tilt blades.

I noticed you got rid of your zipcode saw...was not completely shocked, but surprised. I still remember wanting to buy your General, just too far logistically for me at the time...I really can't ask for more table saw, I think I'm done unless I was to find a slider, but I'm content with my 1600# of cast iron, and 5HP can chomp through anything I have thrown at it. Was cutting 2 5/8" thick stock last week with it. For me that's a pretty hefty cut, 3" exposed above the table, about the highest I like to work with it, but I can get 4 5/8" if really needed when I put a 16" blade on it. I was using a 14" blade, so only get 3 5/8", but still...ripping 2 5/8" thick stock is not something I often do. Still, 3" of blade exposed is a lot for me. I normally cut 4/4 or 8/4.

[Von Bickley]

Is that indeed true that cutting a bevel on a right tilt is more dangerous? My understanding is that the reasoning is that the board is wedged against the fence and therefore could bind up. But isn't that true for all straight cuts? The board is always wedged against the fence, it has to be in order to get the desired dimensions. Am I missing something?

Am I missing something?

I think so. Rip a piece of plywood with a straight cut and pick the piece up during the cut. Now try that with the saw blade set at a 45.

[Chris Padilla]

Table saw blades can tilt?! :confused:









:D

[Jim O'Dell]

Also, have you ever noticed a cut off jumping around on the table slightly after the cut? Be it vibration or air turbulance from the spinning blade. If that is between the blade and the fence, it has a bigger tendency to be grabbed by the blade and rocketed back. If the blade is tilted, there is less margin for error with that cutoff. It will hit the blade. Both tilts will do this. It just depends on how you work on the TS. Obvious thing here is what ever tilt saw you have, know it's weakenesses and strengths and make sure your brain is the first tool turned on!! Jim.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Which side of the blade do you want to work on mostly. It'll be a preference you just automatically gravitate to.
Get a saw that tilts away from that side.

However, some folks will say you want the blade to tilt away from the side where you'll have the larger table surface area so the blade tilts away from sheet stock on big rips to prevent binding.

I prefer a blade that tilts off to my right hand side when I'm standing at the saw. Makes me lots more comfy when handling tight small stock using the crosscut fence. I don't have the high end of the blade leaning in at me.

[Jason White]

I've only ever used a left-tilt, and it feels totally natural.

Also, the industry seems to be moving to all left-tilt (including the new Unisaw).

JW


Can anyone tell me why a right tilt is any better than a left tilt tablesaw? I'm going to be upgrading, this year, any feedback on the steel City 3 hp cabinet saw with granite top? Thanks in advance.


Dale Morris :)

[Josh Rudolph]

Question for the guys who run left tilt...

When you change blade's do you always maintain the exact same kerf thickness? If so, do you do anything special in changing your riving knife/splitter?

Left tilt = splitter is referenced to the left side of blade, while cursor is referenced on right side of blade
Right tilt = splitter is referenced to the right side of blade, while cursor is referenced on right side of blade

To me the right tilt is safer in splitter/riving knife sense. A left tilt is safer in a beveled ripping application (assuming you are uncomfortable ripping on the left side of the blade.)

Do you guys worry about trying to keep the splitter referenced to the right side of the blade?

BTW...I have a right tilt contractor saw and just finished setting up a left tilt cabinet. So I am still deciding which I like better.

[John Thompson]

"Question for the guys who run left tilt...

"When you change blade's do you always maintain the exact same kerf thickness? If so, do you do anything special in changing your riving knife/splitte"? .... Josh

Yes.. No..

"To me the right tilt is safer in splitter/riving knife sense".. Josh..

Why... ?

"Do you guys worry about trying to keep the splitter referenced to the right side of the blade"? ... Josh

No... mine is set to the rigth side on my left tilt Steel City 5 HP at the factory and has not moved. There is adjustment on board but I have no reason to think it is going to change position. Why should it when adjusted properly and locked into position. I do check all nuts on the running equipment about every 3 weeks but.. nothing has budged.

Sarge..

[Peter Quinn]

A few saws (griggio has a slider I think, old Tanewitze maybe?) were made to tilt both ways for those that just can't chose. A bit rare but they are out there.

I think left tilt is for conservatives, as the right brain controls the left side of the body, and right tilt is for liberals, the left brain controlling the right side. Or perhaps I use a left tilt to balance my other wise rightward leanings, a sort of yin and yang thing?

Seriously, the best set up is to get one of each and set them across the aisle (uh, out feed table) from each other, they each have their strengths and values.

If you can only accommodate one, don't be an idiot, just get a left tilt and move forward.:D

[Josh Rudolph]

"To me the right tilt is safer in splitter/riving knife sense".. Josh..

Why... ?

"Do you guys worry about trying to keep the splitter referenced to the right side of the blade"? ... Josh

No... mine is set to the rigth side on my left tilt Steel City 5 HP at the factory and has not moved. There is adjustment on board but I have no reason to think it is going to change position. Why should it when adjusted properly and locked into position. I do check all nuts on the running equipment about every 3 weeks but.. nothing has budged.

Sarge..

I should have clarified that statement a bit more. I am not familiar with how the SC splitter/riving knife setup is, but the 1023SLX that is in the shop uses the left side of the blade as the reference. This would only apply to people who use various kerfs on a left tilt. Since a new (smaller) kerf would require a cursor reset, that creates a gap in between the splitter and workpiece. Probably not enough to worry about, but there would be a gap. (might be the inner machinist in me worry about really small numbers) I believe this is also what Mr. Hendrik Varju talks about in his new video.

I typically always ran thin-kerf blades on my right tilt. Now that I have a bigger saw I am looking at full-kerf blades. I would like to have a primary blade for working and a secondary to use while the other is being sharpened.
I would like to try various brands of blades to use for future reference.
In looking for blades I am seeing how all these different companies have various size kerfs. Finding 2 "good" blades in the same kerf for what I consider to be a decent price has not been the easiest. Granted I am "seeking the most efficient" (aka...cheap :D) and haven't been looking all that long yet.

[scott spencer]

:confused:

Scott,

How would your hands be any farther from the blade, or any closer to the blade either way?

It is all a matter of orientation, the blade will be the same distance from the fence for the cut. I understand what you are saying, but it seems it's mostly because of habit, you feel more comfortable with the blade on the left side of the fence.

I have a right tilt saw, but used to have a left tilt. I like the orientation of the blade on the left side of the fence myself, however, seeing that I use my table saw for mostly ripping at 90 degrees, and do so on the left side of the blade anyway, there is really not much difference in use. I do make beveled cuts occasionally, just not very often as the table saw is really only used for dimensioning stock for me. One way around that situation is to use a sled, a lot of folks even do that on left tilt blades.

I noticed you got rid of your zipcode saw...was not completely shocked, but surprised. I still remember wanting to buy your General, just too far logistically for me at the time...I really can't ask for more table saw, I think I'm done unless I was to find a slider, but I'm content with my 1600# of cast iron, and 5HP can chomp through anything I have thrown at it. Was cutting 2 5/8" thick stock last week with it. For me that's a pretty hefty cut, 3" exposed above the table, about the highest I like to work with it, but I can get 4 5/8" if really needed when I put a 16" blade on it. I was using a 14" blade, so only get 3 5/8", but still...ripping 2 5/8" thick stock is not something I often do. Still, 3" of blade exposed is a lot for me. I normally cut 4/4 or 8/4.

Hi Alan - The $250 MS Cashbask, $100 Ebay coupon, and free shipping was more than I could take this summer, so a Shop Fox 1677 has replaced my much loved 22124. The 1677 is simply more saw, but I do miss the 22124.

Here's a crude visual aid to stress my point about the blade tip relative to the fence on a bevel cut. On a left tilt saw the long side of the bevel is on the top with the blade tilting away, on a right tilt the long side is on the bottom with the blade tilting in. To get the same width on a bevel cut the teeth of a right are closer to the fence...unless I'm missing something...:o

106097

[hank dekeyser]

Riving knife ?? Splitter ?? blade guard ?? What are these things you speak of ? I'm only kidding, I have all of them (in a drawer under the saw) right / left - makes no difference, get a good fence w/ plenty of room on BOTH sides of the blade and you can cut whatever you want. You do know that the fence CAN go on both sides of the blade ?
Yup I'm a smart arse - keeps me feeling young - and YES I still have all 9 of my fingers

[John Thompson]

I should have clarified that statement a bit more. I am not familiar with how the SC splitter/riving knife setup is, but the 1023SLX that is in the shop uses the left side of the blade as the reference. This would only apply to people who use various kerfs on a left tilt. Since a new (smaller) kerf would require a cursor reset, that creates a gap in between the splitter and workpiece. Probably not enough to worry about, but there would be a gap. (might be the inner machinist in me worry about really small numbers) I believe this is also what Mr. Hendrik Varju talks about in his new video.

I typically always ran thin-kerf blades on my right tilt. Now that I have a bigger saw I am looking at full-kerf blades. I would like to have a primary blade for working and a secondary to use while the other is being sharpened.
I would like to try various brands of blades to use for future reference.
In looking for blades I am seeing how all these different companies have various size kerfs. Finding 2 "good" blades in the same kerf for what I consider to be a decent price has not been the easiest. Granted I am "seeking the most efficient" (aka...cheap :D) and haven't been looking all that long yet.

I think I understand you now, Jason. I run full kerf blades on my SC 5 HP and did the same on my left tilt Uni-saw before I sold it. Yes.. if a splitter is set up just under the width of the blade plate for full kerf.. putting a thin kerf on will leave a gap of whatever the variance of .000 are between TK and full. So.. if running both you need to use a splitter ro knive thin enough to accomodate TK and Full or have two with one being slightly thicker for full.. etc.. etc..

As far as the cursor goes mine is basically accurate but... I always measure after I set it by the cursor. I leave the cam un-locked and if the framing square I have with a Starrrett self adhesive tape agrees with the cursor.. the cam gets locked.. I re-check to make sure there was no movement and then proceed to cut. Sounds like that take awhile but really only about a minute as I do it about 20 times a day on average. I am retired and spend 4-8 hours a day in the shop.

I run Amana 20 T and CMT 24 T for ripping and an Infinity 40 T. None of those blades are outrageous in price but... there are some deals around. Maybe Scott will see this as he test blades and might even sell you one he has tested before he gets another. I got my Infinity from him and he just used it enough to test and it was still very sharp.

Sarge..

[scott spencer]

...I run Amana 20 T and CMT 24 T for ripping and an Infinity 40 T. None of those blades are outrageous in price but... there are some deals around. Maybe Scott will see this as he test blades and might even sell you one he has tested before he gets another. I got my Infinity from him and he just used it enough to test and it was still very sharp.

Sarge..

Hey Sarge- I did read your post, but there won't be any testing going on until my keester thaws out! It's hard to concentrate on the cut quality of a fine blade when your critical body parts are turning blue! :eek: (I do have an Amana 20T, and a DW 30T to try out in the spring!)

[Kelly C. Hanna]

No I can't...it'll drive ya nuts. I hate my right tilt Delta...well actually I love the saw just hate the right tilt thing. Can't wait to swap it for a left tilt someday.

[Alan DuBoff]

Hi Alan - The $250 MS Cashbask, $100 Ebay coupon, and free shipping was more than I could take this summer, so a Shop Fox 1677 has replaced my much loved 22124. The 1677 is simply more saw, but I do miss the 22124.
You do know how to find the deals! Obviously you must have sold your zipcode saw, so SWMBO is most likely happy! :cool:

Here's a crude visual aid to stress my point about the blade tip relative to the fence on a bevel cut. On a left tilt saw the long side of the bevel is on the top with the blade tilting away, on a right tilt the long side is on the bottom with the blade tilting in. To get the same width on a bevel cut the teeth of a right are closer to the fence...unless I'm missing something...:o
No, you were not missing anything, but I was. Silly me, I was assuming that the right tilt would cut the bevel cut on the opposite side of the fence. It is essentially the same cut, blade is the same, but on the opposite side of the fence.

I do feel that the left side of the fence is more comfortable for me, but the orientation is only a matter of getting used to. A sled takes out the risk factor, should someone feel the risk.

I just see left/right as a preference, and something that most every woodworker can get used to. I´ve adapted to my right tilt with very little pain, in fact, it has eased more pain than it has caused with the 5HP direct drive motor. The beast can eat unisaws for breakfast and not break a sweat.

Kelly, I used to feel that way when I first got my right tilt, but itś all the same at the end of the day to me. Just a matter of orientation. Straight cuts are identical for me.

[Von Bickley]

No I can't...it'll drive ya nuts. I hate my right tilt Delta...well actually I love the saw just hate the right tilt thing. Can't wait to swap it for a left tilt someday.


Amen...Amen...Amen...

I agree with you 100%