Storing Router Bits

[Anthony Whitesell]

I have started (finally) to make the drawers for my router table to hold the router bits. I have read that you should store router bits in directly wood as it may seal in moisture and cause the shanks to rust. The router bit holders are WAY too expensive. So I hade some holders myself and am now looking for something to line the holes with so the bits are not directly in contact with the wood. I tried vinyl tubing at the BORG, bit it acts likes a chinese finger puzzle and won't let me have the bit back. The polyproplene tubing works much better but I can't find 1/2" ID. Any ideas? I need something for 1/4" and 1/2" shanks.

[Myk Rian]

Use 3/8" and 9/16" or 5/8". A little slop won't hurt anything.

[Lee Schierer]

You may be the victim of a false rumor. I made a wood stand for my router bits several years ago and I haven't seen a bit of rust on any of them. Make sure the lumber is truly dry before you use it for a bit holder and you most likely won't have a problem. If you are really concerned, line the holes with a coat of poly or lacquer. You can apply the sealant in the holes with a cottom swab.

My advice is to use wood holders, they are easy to make and the cost is right.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have never heard of that. I store my bits in a Norm-style pull out shelf (3 of them, actually) that are composed of a bit holder with 1/2" and 1/4" holes drilled all the way through it, screwed to a base of 1/2" plywood. None of them are rusted or ever give me any trouble.

Doc

[Tim Malyszko]

I store my router bits in plywood lined drawers with 1/2" holes cut to hold the bits and have never had any sort of rust problem. They have been this way for about 2+ years. The shop can get very humid and water often condenses on metal in it and I still have not seen any rust issues. Wood should be fine.

[Dewey Torres]

I also think that to be a myth but...

Have you seen these?

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6064&filter=router%20bit%20storage

[Dave Jewers]

I store mine in wood too. I have some that have been stored that way for more than 20 years- no rust. What causes the rust is the environment around them.
Keep the air warm and dry and you'll be fine. If you're that worried about it, you can pick up some packs of dessicant to throw in your box, cabinet, whatever- that will suck up the moisture. When they're full, a little time in the oven makes them like new.

[Harold Beck]

I use these. They also let me re-orient my storage when my strock of bits changes.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=50697&cat=1,46168

Good luck,

HB

[Brent Ring]

Store mine in wood as well!

[Anthony Whitesell]

Like I said...WAY to expensive. 6 for $2.70 or $3.60. :eek:

[Anthony Whitesell]

Lee,

I think I will go with that. I have some varnish from some testing left over that would work nicely for coating the inside of the holes.

It's sure funny how topics like this sway from one side to the other.

Anthony

[Jason Beam]

My experience tells me you've been told wrong. I've had all my bits in very snug holes in some scrap walnut sapwood for 4 years. No rust whatsoever.

[Ted Shrader]

Anthony -

Wood works for me. I have blocks in my router table drawers made from 2X?? scrap material ripped down at an angle to make it easy to get the bits out. Drilled ¼" and ½" holes a little over sized. Has been 10+ years now and no rust whatsoever.

The drawers are vertical with "shelves" for the router bit rails.

105849
This is the left drawer.


105850
Right drawer.


Wood is cheap - go for it.

Regards,
Ted

[Jim O'Dell]

I heard the thing about moisture also, and didn't take any chances. I have a raised false bottom in my drawers made of 1/4" birch ply. I got some rubber grommets from McMaster-Carr. Drilled the holes to the right size and inserted the grommets. Works great. I have some of the silica packs to put between the layers to help absorb moisture. Some foam insulation board in the bottom to cushion the end of the shanks. Jim.

[Jeff Bratt]

I think I will go with that. I have some varnish from some testing left over that would work nicely for coating the inside of the holes.

I use plain plywood also. If you put a finish coat on the insides of the holes, it will reduce the diameter by a few or several thousandths. Make sure to check how your bits fit on some samples before drilling a big grid of holes. I found that different bits I had (brad point, forstner, twist) had slightly different diameters, and which bit I used could make a difference between fitting well or not...

[Steve Southwood]

I have been think about this also. I am thinking of making a small ferris wheel type holder. Might be a cool little way to store the bits.

[Lee Koepke]

i found an old uhmw cutting board at Old Time Pottery for like $2 and drilled a hand full of 1/4 and 1/2 holes. I screwed two pieces of 1x2 on the bottom and thats it for now. They slide out pretty well.

[Joe Chritz]

I will someday make inserts for drawers from some woodrag I had at one time. A bunch on MDF squares of a few sizes ( 1.5, 2.25 and 3.5 I think) with rounded edges and a hole in the center. Put in the bottom of a drawer and use hardboard to fill in the spaces. Infinitely customizable and made from scraps.

I plan on just dipping the squares in BLO and letting them dry before use.

Joe

[John Keeton]

They won't rust unless the wood was not dry or moisture is introduced. Plywood scraps will be dry and that is what I have used with no problems.

Ted, I really like the vertical drawers - wish I had done that in my storage cabinets. Next time!

[Anthony Whitesell]

I had planned on vertical drawers in my router table, but as the design finalized they ended up getting designed out. I think I have someting almost as slick. I'll post pictures when I get them finished.