Market For Ultra-Wide Cherry Boards?

[Scott Vigder]

I have the good fortune of having had two very large and very straight cherry trees felled today. One will yield up to an 18" board, and the other will yield some very nice 20"-22" boards (I'm talking width). I'm going to have them cut to 8-1/2' lengths at 5/4.

My Question: is there a market for high grade 22-24 inch wide boards?

The larger tree has three outstanding 9-foot sections that will each yield at least one or two 20-22-inch boards. The smaller tree will yield 2 or 3 18-inch boards.

If I could sell a few of these monster boards, it sure would go a long way to defray my costs, and I still get some nice 7" boards.

Any thoughts on the marketability of big boards?

Thanks!

[J.R. Rutter]

I would saw to yield 8/4 at least - that is what most furniture guys want.

[Gary Breckenridge]

Cherry boards that wide get very interesting for table and counter tops. Cupping and splits will be the biggest problem while drying them. Good luck.:)

[Kelly C. Hanna]

You bet they do...there's a few I've seen going for big dollars around our area. Post some pics when you get a chance!

[Martin Shupe]

Yes, there is a market. The price will depend on how well you take care of the boards as you dry and sticker them. If you have never done this, read up on it and do it right, to preserve your investment.

The pith boards will not be good, they cup and or crack badly. Best to cut the pith out, and end up with two good quartersawn boards that are not quite as wide, vs. a poor wide board.

Post pics when you can.

[John Keeton]

I see dry, non-kilned, cherry for about $1.50 - 1.75, give or take, on occasion - just have to look for it. The wide boards would be nice, but flatness is the key. Unless you can avoid the center of the tree, I would rip them to keep good straight wood.

[Frank Drew]

My Question: is there a market for high grade 22-24 inch wide boards?

Does a bear poop in the woods? :D

As others noted, you have to stack and sticker these boards right away and very well to assure the best results. Cutting on the thick side of 5/4 would give you (or the subsequent owner) some leeway in getting a flat final board. I'm not sure 8/4 is necessary, though, unless it's for leg stock, etc. Nothing wrong with thick stuff, of course; I'd get it out of the middle boards where you'll have to lose the pith anyway.

[Jim Becker]

Absolutely. Check out Irion, for example, that specializes in wide material like that...

For me, the wider the better!

[Jim Kountz]

No Im afraid theres not much of a market for things like that. Tell you what Im willing to do though, I can come remove those unsightly boards from your yard and I wont even charge you a thing!!

[Myk Rian]

I'll bet I can get there before Jim. :D

[Alex Stace]

If you have not sawn them yet consider calling a veneer buyer. if the logs have all clear faces they could be stupidly valuable

[David Keller NC]

"My Question: is there a market for high grade 22-24 inch wide boards?"

To quote a recent political candidate: "you betcha!" What they will sell for greatly depends on sapwood inclusions, the color once its dried, the absence of knots and other defects, and any figure. In general, prime cherry in this area sells for about $8 a b.f., though boards that wide will go for about $12 a b.f.

What you might consider doing is to cut each log into several different thicknesses. One of the problems with building cherry furniture from the lumberyard is color matching - every tree is slightly to wildly different. For that reason, furniture makers will usually pay a small premium to get 5/4 (widest boards), 8/4 and 16/4 stock all from the same tree. Generally, that means the 5/4 is sawn from the center, the 8/4 is stacked on top of the 5/4 and so has both rift-sawn and flat sawn portions of the width, and the 16/4 is usually 4" wide and from the extremities of the diameter of the log.

If the space is tight (i.e., the log's a funny shape so cutting 16/4 out of the two cants left from center-sawing isn't possible), you can cut the "leg stock" at 12/4.

[Brad Shipton]

I agree, very marketable. If you want proof, take a look at what Hearne Hardwoods lists such boards for in matched sets. Big dollars. Might make for a lot of good veneer. I know veneer manuf pay top dollars for premium logs.

Brad

[John Keeton]

As the original post asked - the key here is "high grade." If these boards are cut through the center of the tree, getting them to remain flat and not split will be a challenge. Scott mentions "very large trees" and comments about being able to get 2 or 3 wide boards from each section. That sounds like Scott is talking about boards thru the middle.

I think all agree on the value of premium wide boards - the real question is what can Scott expect to get from the trees in "quality" lumber. If the choice is split and cupped 18" boards vs. straight flat 8" boards - I will take the flat stuff anyday.

I agree with David Keller's suggestion to get the most productive yield - or Alex's comment on veneering. To speculate on what Scott's "wide boards" may ultimately be worth when no one has seen them, and they have not even been cut, may do him a disservice. Should he elect to simply get the widest possible boards, that may not be the most valuable wood to him in the end.

Scott is in Ohio. What cherry is worth in PA, KY, or any market area other than Scott's, is irrelevant unless Scott has a way of marketing it in that area. It may serve him to check with a lumber buyer in that area to see what his market is - and get someone to actually look at the logs to determine how they should best be cut.

[Andrew Nemeth]

Scott,

I'm in central Ohio. I may be able to "store" some of that cherry for you. No seriously, if you live anywhere near Columbus and you need another set of hands with whatever you decide to do with it I'd be happy to help. I have always been interested in the process of getting a tree from the felled stage to a dried lumber.

-Andrew

[Frank Drew]

What you might consider doing is to cut each log into several different thicknesses. One of the problems with building cherry furniture from the lumberyard is color matching - every tree is slightly to wildly different. For that reason, furniture makers will usually pay a small premium to get 5/4 (widest boards), 8/4 and 16/4 stock all from the same tree.

Absolutely a good idea; furniture made from one tree can't be beat.


Generally, that means the 5/4 is sawn from the center, the 8/4 is stacked on top of the 5/4 and so has both rift-sawn and flat sawn portions of the width, and the 16/4 is usually 4" wide and from the extremities of the diameter of the log.I'd reverse that cutting order and get my wide table boards and door panels (the 5/4 stuff) from flitch sawn boards nearer the outside of the tree; particularly with wood such as cherry and walnut, wide stock looks best, IMO, when it's flat sawn through and through with full crown figure. Leg stock, again IMO, can be from the less interestingly figured straight grained inner wood, above and below and to the sides of the pith.

[lowell holmes]

I would sure like to see some of that $1.50 cherry. It runs four times that here in Houston. :-)

[David Keller NC]

"I'd reverse that cutting order and get my wide table boards and door panels (the 5/4 stuff) from flitch sawn boards nearer the outside of the tree; particularly with wood such as cherry and walnut, wide stock looks best, IMO, when it's flat sawn through and through with full crown figure. Leg stock, again IMO, can be from the less interestingly figured straight grained inner wood, above and below and to the sides of the pith."

I don't disagree with you on the attractiveness of flat-sawn vs. quartersawn cherry or walnut, but the reason I suggested that cutting order was to get the widest possible stock for table tops, case sides, and the like from the given log. A couple of other reasons to do this is that quartersawn wide, flat boards are generally easier to dry without cupping ot cracking, and the thick leg stock, if sawn with one face adjacent to the vertical center line of the log, will result in near perfect rift-sawn boards. Rift-sawn 16/4 stock is much preferred for table legs and the like because there's no jarring contrast between a flat-sawn face and a quartersawn face.

[Frank Drew]

All good points, David, and a lot just comes down to the particular look you're after. I think we both agree that careful wood selection only enhances good design and craftsmanship.

[John Keeton]

I would sure like to see some of that $1.50 cherry. It runs four times that here in Houston. :-)
Lowell, this goes back to the market area issue. I just turned down an opportunity at 1,000 feet of cherry at $1.50 simply because I don't use cherry. I wouldn't have the same attitude on walnut! There is also another source for some very nice cherry at probably $2/ft. and some not as nice at $1/ft.

BTW, the cherry is still available and if you are interested in making a trip, let me know and I will put you in contact with the individual. You could make a vacation trip to good 'ol KY, see some bluegrass, and take back a good supply of wood! Given what you are saying, the cost savings would easily pay for the trip.