DC noise control anyone tried high technology viscoelastic polymer coating

[Ed Hazel]

I plan on installing a cyclone DC this spring and I have read many posts on noise control and was wondering if anyone has looked at high technology viscoelastic polymer coatings such as what is available at www. quietcoat.com which is spray on I have also seen peel and stick pads?


From their site
"QuietCar converts the kinetic (noise) energy into heat. You can
theoretically measure it, but it's less than 0.1° Fahrenheit. By absorbing vehicle body
vibration, engine and road noise can be reduced by up to 20dB - that's an
astonishing 75% of the noise - depending on vehicle and application.
As a viscoelastic polymer designed for noise reduction, it outperforms older coating
products such as rubber, asphalt, and elastomer… typically by 2x to 3x."

I have never used this product and am not issuing a recommendation on it
just looking for your thoughts

[Burt Alcantara]

Take a look at http://www.greengluecompany.com Their site has a lot more information about the basics of sound isolation. Then google around for "home theaters." You'll find a lot about successful sound proofing.

Sound proofing specs are no different from tool specs. They are subject to the imaginations of Marketing Barbies.

I have a 5hp cyclone. I had to move it out of the shop because of the noise. It's in an adjacent room but still too noisy for me. I'll probably build a closet for it.

Many people are not bothered by the noise but some, like me, are. It's almost enough to drive me to hand tools.

Burt

[Ed Hazel]

Thanks Burt

Viscoelastic polymer coating is a relativly new technology that is supposed to actually change the sound vibrations to heat energy not just absorb or muffle the noise.

Several years ago when I was running a body shop one of mt techs was into high end car stereos and he took everything out of his van and installed this stuff (not sure what company he bought it from) on every panel doors, roof and under the van ect. and it drastically reduced the amount of sound from exiting the car. I beleive he had 13 DBs less outside the car after he instslled the viscoelastic polymer coating. I ca not remember the exact numbers but prior to installation I think he had 7 DB differece from insde to outside and after it was 20 Dbs difference.
My thought was if you could cover your cyclone with this stuf and rduce the DBs emittedd by 13 that would be a large amount. I would hate to cover a nice new shinny cyclone with this stuff though.

[Bob Slater]

I have a a big roll of a product called Brown Bread that is used for car stereo applications. I might try experimenting with it on my 2HP Gorilla once the shop is complete. There is also a rubberized roofing membrane with a metal top coat that some who don't want to shell out the bucks for the stuff marketed by audio companies claims works as well. No idea if these things will make a difference on a DC.

[hank dekeyser]

I've got a 5hp Torit cyclone along w/ the compressor in an insulated closet (mainly because mine is 10 feet tall) I used 2 x 4's w/ 5/8 sheetrock, 3-36" insulated doors (2 steel, 1 fiberglass) got the doors at Menards in the closeout/damaged pile for $5 ea.

At 10' from the wall the cyclone runs @ 84 dB doors closed / 90 dB doors open.
At 20' - 79 dB closed / 86 dB open
For comparison I decided to fire up the table saw and band saw for the heck of it (it's not everyday I bring the spl meter in the shop) I measured at a normal operating distance.
Table saw (Delta 3hp Uni-Saw)= 90 dB
Band saw (Jet 14" open stand)= 80 dB
FYI all spl levels measured with an old school Radio Shack analog meter - C weighted - also, a 3dB noise level reduction is perceived as being half as loud (and visa/versa) , the lower the frequency, the harder it is to "hear"
No I'm not taking my spectrum analyzer in the shop to tell you what frequency my cyclone plays. (maybe someday)

The product used by car audio guys goes by many names, a few of which are "Dynamat" and "Roadkill" Basically it's a self adhesive sheet about 1/8" thick kinda' like thick tar paper only smoother. (they make some thicker stuff, and foil backed and others too) You can accomplish the same w/ a good High quality spray on undercoating. Personally I wouldn't spray or stick anything on the cyclone, but that's me. For info on sound tranfer levels and how much you can reduce noise if I remember right "National Gypsum" has a 1-800 number and they can give you recommendations.
IF you insist on putting Dynamat or something on the cyclone the basic train of thought is that you are adding mass to the unit effectively reducing its ability to transfer the noise level. The door on my bandsaw was buzzing and resonated a weird sound so I stuck a 10" x 10" piece on the door, no more weird noise. Sometimes it works better if you just do strips or patches of Dynamatt. What this does is adds some mass, yet makes the surface you apply it to an "inconsistent" thickness which helps to reduce the level it resonates at. (quieter not lower frequency)

Yeah I used to be "one of those guys" thumpin' down the road. Unlike kids today I was a "rock bass" guy not a rapper.
Good luck w/ the noise and the WWW is full of info about this stuff.

[Ed Hazel]

Thanks for the input.

It sounds like most of the noise is generated at the exhaust maybe just wrapping the pipe from the blower to the filter would make a difference.

Keep us posted if you try something Bob.

I was reading on Pentz site and it said PVC was quieter then metal pipe.

I am planning on purchasing the Dust Gorilla 2.5 which states 78 - 79 DB at 10ft. So maybe sound will not be an issue. I wear hearing protection when machines are running anyways.

Got back into woodworking to get away from the noise ect.