Rockler ZCI Question and problem…

[Sean Rainaldi]

Hi,

Two issues. First, anyone with experience setting up a Rockler zero clearance insert – their phenolic two pack, how do you cut the slot? I thought I could just place it in the table inset, turn on saw and crank up the blade to cut the slot, but when I drop the ZCI into it’s slot, it rests on top of the blade and is not seated because the blade pushes the ZCI out of it’s table inset, and if I turn on the saw the ZCI will definitely go airborne.

Second, I should have checked before I spent all afternoon milling the ZCI and installing the screws – the ZCI is bowed in the center, at least .015-.020”. I can make the ZCI flush with the table on the infeed and outfeed side of the blade (front and back), but when I do that, there is a dip towards the center of the blade. Is this really that critical? Or should I ask for an exchange?

I doubt if they will take it back since it’s milled, maybe I should just chalk that up to experience. The other ZCI is perfectly flat though.

Thanks for any suggestions happy new year all.

[Bill Huber]

I used those on my old saw but they don't make any big enough for the new one.

When I made mine I just use the router and cut a slot in the bottom of the plate first and then it would set down, then I raised the blade. The slot was just deep enough so it would set down on the blade.

If I remember right I used the router table with the fence and 2 stops and a 3/8 in straight bit, multiple shallow passes.

[Joe Scharle]

If you're not too critical, mount a dado blade and crank it up. Slot may be wider than your 10" blade.

[Anthony Whitesell]

No one makes a ZCI for my saw, so I haven't much experience, but I can give you a thought. What about clamping two pieces of scrap, one on either side on the blade, to hold the ZCI down while you plunge the saw blade through it?

[tuvy guss]

One idea to try: You can use something like carpet tape to stick the new insert on top of your existing one. Plop the combo into the saw.

IMPORTANT: Clamp wood across entire insert for safety.

Then use your desired blade and bring up through the existing insert and into the blank.

[Fred Belknap]

install a 7 1/4" blade on the saw and crank it up then go back and use the 10".

[Justin Coyne]

I've run into the same problem on a Craftsman contractor saw. I used my 8" dado blade to make the first cut, then put the 10" blade on.

[Don Morris]

I made a number of ZCIs out of BB for different blades: 1/8" blade, thin kerf blade, several common size dado widths I was using often. The advice to clamp a piece of wood on each side of the center of the ZCI to hold it in place as you raise the blade worked fine. Just remember to match the blade to the ZCI!!!

[Roger Warford]

I've used Bill's approach successfully with wood inserts. You definitely want the back of the insert flush with the table top - it's no fun to have a board catch the lip with a slightly too low insert (DAMHIKT!). If you have to, you could mill the insert flat, then use screws undereath as "feet" to bring the insert up to the appropriate height. The insert that came with your saw probably uses that approach (mine does).

Let us all know how you like the inserts once you start using them. I've been wondering if it would be worth purchasing some phenolic. So far, my scrap inserts have served me well, though.

[Elijah Fontenot]

install a 7 1/4" blade on the saw and crank it up then go back and use the 10".


That's exactly what i did. Used my circular saw blade to get it going then swapped to my TS 10" blade.

[Dave Lehnert]

I use a Dado blade to cut just enough to give the 10" blade clearance. I move my table saw fence over the insert (but not over the blade) to hold the insert in place. Then crank the blade up.

[Dan Friedrichs]

If your 10" blade doesn't crank down far enough, the best thing to do is get a 7 1/4" circular saw blade and use it to just start the cut. Just the blades (no chippers) from a 6" or 8" dado stack would work, too.

I don't like the idea of taping the new insert over the old one. Likewise, using the fence to hold the insert down while making the initial cut seems dangerous (if your fence doesn't clamp at the back, what's keeping the entire fence from swinging up and smacking you if something caught?). The safest way to hold the insert down while making the initial cut is by placing a scrap piece of lumber over the entire insert, and clamping it at the front and back. Make the cut, remove the scrap.