looking for a quality chainsaw

[Bob Slater]

I have some pretty hefty trees to clear at my fathers vacation property. I am looking for an easy to handle yet rugged chainsaw that has the power to make small logs out of many big felled trees. These appear to be pretty dense. (They are in the Bahamas..not sure of the name of the tree, but cassaway or something seems familiar) . I am happy buying a used one in good shape, or rebuilding one for a nice winter project. Any brand and model suggestions?
Thanks. (also if there is a good guide book for chainsaw safety procedures)

[John Thompson]

Stihl..... but whatever you get.... get a bar long enough to handle the tree diameters you mentioned.

Sarge..

[Jim Becker]

Stihl or Husqvanra. Avoid the consumer saws at the 'borg...they will not last, costing you more in the long run and they will not start as easily and reliably as a good machine will.

[Joe Chritz]

You got your answers.

When I purchased a new saw this year it was a toss up between Husqvarna and Stihl. I went with the Husky because the 18" bar version had a slightly bigger engine. Stihl's big saws are some of the best out there.

Joe

[Dewayne Reding]

I've got a new Stihl 390 that handles a 25" bar. About a $500 saw as I recall. If you get a project saw, do the research to ensure parts are available. It's not quite as good as it once was, and Stihl is darn proud of their repair parts. They will lighten your wallet up real fast. Not trying to bash Stihl. I do love my saw compared to the borg junk I used to own and fight.

[Luther Oswalt]

I have had a Stihl for about 10 years and have cut many trees with it. Your bar does not need to be as long as the tree you are cuting as there are techques to cut trees with a short bar. If you plan to cut as a logger i.e., daily, then get a longer bar. The Stihl is a very good saw ....
Leo

[Jeff Wright]

I've got a new Stihl 390 that handles a 25" bar. About a $500 saw as I recall. If you get a project saw, do the research to ensure parts are available. It's not quite as good as it once was, and Stihl is darn proud of their used parts. They will lighten your wallet up real fast. Not trying to bash Stihl. I do love my saw compared to the borg junk I used to own and fight.

I recently bought the 390. I also got a 20-inch bar in addition to the 25-inch for times when the 25 is overkill. Haven't used it yet, so can't comment on its quality, performance, etc., but I am relying on its great reputation.

[Karl Brogger]

Another vote for Husky or Stihl

[Steve Rozmiarek]

You won't regret Stihl, and parts are easy. There is a radical difference in handling between the different sizes, if you are only going to be using it on 15" or so trees, you will wish you got the smaller size. The big Stihl's balance very well though, just more mass to be lugging around.

[Kevin Arceneaux]

Another Husky

[Dewayne Reding]

You won't regret Stihl, and parts are easy. There is a radical difference in handling between the different sizes, if you are only going to be using it on 15" or so trees, you will wish you got the smaller size. The big Stihl's balance very well though, just more mass to be lugging around.

Good point, my 390 is heavy. No way I use it for trimming branches. I use it on my Alaskan chainsaw mill to harvest moderate sized logs for woodworking. It would also knock down big trees of course.

[James Suzda]

Visit this website and forum. (Nice folks there!)


www arboristsite com

I would say about 75% of these folks use Stihl.

[Mike Wellner]

(Stihl) The odd number model numbers are commercial grade, spend the extra $$$ on commercial grade, it will last you longer.

[Thomas S Stockton]

I would check which brands are available on the island and what dealers there are. You don't want a broken down saw and no one to fix it. I have a couple of stihl's and we used to have a husqvarna there all great saws and fairly tough. Most the loggers around here run Stihl or husky.
Tom

[Randy Rose]

Stihl or Dolmar

[Chip Lindley]

Stihl MS390 is THE SAW! ( unless you are a professional lumberjack) I cut my own firewood every winter and finally wore out my first-ever Sears/Poulan 3800 after almost 20 years. The Stihl 390 is about 2/3 the weight, and has done everything I have asked of it for the past six years. 20" bar is plenty! I have bucked 36" trunks with it. Buy the Stihl and it will be the last saw you will have to purchase!!

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have used Stihls, Poulans, Huskys, and the Stihl is the best of them. I currently don't have one, but when the cheap one that my wife got me years ago dies, its replacement will be a Stihl.

Doc

[Kevin Godshall]

For 10 years I've been running a Jonsered 2054 Turbo. Big price tag up front, but with a sharp loop, I haven't found anything I haven't been able to tackle, even with only having a 16" bar (meant learning plunge cutting and other techniques for felling large diameter trees).

Biggest thing by far........ if you're not accustomed to running a saw, "on the job training" is a quick trip to the hospital. Especially if falling trees!!! It is not a weekend warrior task. There are way too many dangers to even begin to write about in a post, and the more powerful the saw, the better the chance to expotentially increase the dangers.

As in the workshop, your greatest weapon vs injury is fear (fear, as in respect). Better learned than taught.

[David G Baker]

Stihl is my favorite. I have the Farm Boss model. It has worked well for me. Parts are readily available and there are many repair facilities scattered through out the country if needed. Stihl is one of the work horses of the lumber industry.
If you are not in good physical shape, it will make a man out of you if you use it much.

[Bob Genovesi]

Stihl MS390 is THE SAW! ( unless you are a professional lumberjack) I cut my own firewood every winter and finally wore out my first-ever Sears/Poulan 3800 after almost 20 years. The Stihl 390 is about 2/3 the weight, and has done everything I have asked of it for the past six years. 20" bar is plenty! I have bucked 36" trunks with it. Buy the Stihl and it will be the last saw you will have to purchase!!

Chip,

I have a Sears / Poulan that I bought back in 1975. This saw has cut more wood than God planted on this earth and I can't kill it! It's been through hell and back, sat under water twice for at least 2 weeks. Both times I tore is all apart, dried it out, and started it....

My Kids bought me a new Husqvarna last year because I wanted a new one. I've got a 345 with an 18" bar. The saw is 3hp and man does it cut but without the vibration I became fond of with my Sears saw....

[Kevin Arceneaux]

To reduce hand fatigue, get a pair of anti-vibration gloves. I got a pair and used them when I was cutting some trees down. It made a huge difference. My hands were not sore.

http://www.labsafety.com/store/Safety_Supplies/Gloves/Anti-Vibration_-Impact_Gloves/

[Eric Porter]

I'm with Randy when it comes to the Dolmar, the 5100s is the best 50cc saw going in my opinion and many others. Will run about $400 new.

Eric

[Sonny Edmonds]

Well, I've had a couple of Husky's over they years and never had to worry about parts...
They never needed them!
Now that sez a lot about a chainsaw.
My first Husky came stock with a 36" bar. It was a pro series saw, no brake, just a lot of guts. Around 5 Cu In. as I recall.
I always refered to it as my wood laser.
My current one (for the last 12 years now) is a 300th anniversery edition, modle 340 I belive it is. Great mid sized saw.:)

[Dave Lewis]

We've been pleased with Stihl - Farm Boss, Mini-Boss and weedwhipper.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I have a 30 year old Sthil 036 that I've dropped from trees got stuck in trees that fell wrong and generally beat the living daylights out of it. The tank leaks from dropping it from 40 some odd feet so I want a new one but, there's this one problem:

I can't kill it.

[Chris Brault]

It's hard to beat a Stihl or a Husqy. There are small differences between the two, but not really worth mentioning. Most of the loggers I've worked with out here run Stihl. I've ran both often, and don't really have a preference. Can't go wrong with either!

[Mike Heidrick]

(Stihl) The odd number model numbers are commercial grade, spend the extra $$$ on commercial grade, it will last you longer.

I own a Stihl MS 260 Pro. One awesome firewood/home/ranch saw IMO. I LOVE the decompression valve. If I ever need bigger - MS460 Magnum!!

[Jim W. White]

I have a Stihl I bought used off *bay. It is a model 026 which predated the 260, and it runs like a raped ape.

Check out the literature available from the Stihl website concerning chainsaw usage and safety. Very well written regardless of which direction you go on the purchase side.

Jim in Idaho

[Gene Michael]

Bought an Echo at one of the borgs. NO power. Bogged down on 8 and 10" trees. Returned it. Got a very good deal on a husqvarna at Sears. They were on sale for much less than anywhere else. It's a strong saw and much lighter than my friend's stihl. My wife uses an old homelite 150, which isn't a bad saw, but it doesn't have near the power of the husqvarna.

[Bob Slater]

Thanks for all the replies and endorsements. I guess I will start looking on CL in the near term to see if something used pops up. One thing I hadn't considered is getting the thing down there.(On a commercial flight) I suppose if I drain all the combustibles they might let it on board. There are no repair facilities for anything on this island, so some proven model with parts support via mail is the only way to go. All the trees I am going to chop up are already horizontal and littering the beach. The trunks are mostly about 30 inches wide.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Bob...you have gotten some good advice here. Still, Husky, Jonsered...any of them in the commercial grade.

I have a Pro Mac.....I bought 30 years ago. I bought it from a saw shop new in Bend, OR in 1977. I told the guy....give me something I can make a living with....

Mac went out of business as far as I know. My saw......it sat for 6 years without being run......cleaned the carb bowl out......fresh gas....sharpened chain......new oil for the oiler....cleaned the fuel filter. It runs strong today.

Point.....like most things you get what you pay for. The consumer grade is okay for trimming limbs but if you want to cut trees....get a commercial grade in the big names mentioned. When and if my Mac goes gunny...It'll be Stihl or Husky or Jonsered

[Bob Slater]

Is this one a commercial grade and tough enough for the task? :

Stihl 028AV Super Electronic
There is a lightly used on on CL for about $280 USD.

[Ken Milhinch]

Interesting how different countries favour different brands. For me a McCulloch was first choice, but if I had a lot of heavier work to do Stihl would be it. When I think of Husqvarna, I think of sewing machines :rolleyes:

[Rick Lucrezi]

I ran a stihl 044(now the 440mag) for years. It is the number one saw here in the NorthWest with fire crews, including forest service, BLM, and State Crews. SO what did I buy this summer? Husky 372 xp. It was a toss up both cost, weight, performance, just about every way, but the shop I got the Husky from was a mom and pop with incredible personal service. In my opinion that is more important than the Stihl, Husky debate.

[Paul Demetropoulos]

I've had the same Stihl for maybe twenty years with one carb rebuild, still runs like a champ. The bar is short, it's not more than maybe 15", and I've felled trees much bigger.

Where the shorter bar really shines is after you've dropped the tree and you're limbing it. The longer bars are much more ackward to work between branches and that's where I've had most of my close calls.

If you think about it you're making way more cuts removing limbs.
For me, after some long days I'll start getting sloppy, getting tired, moving faster to get done. I've scared myself more than a few times with careless things I've done.

There's more than one good brand out there and Stihl is definitley one. But don't get a larger saw than you need, it's more tiring to use and more exposed blade. This has to be the most dangerous tool commonly in use.

[Noah Vig]

Very happy with my Husqvarna 353e with 18" bar and have had zero problems so far. Haven't cut any 30" diameter stuff with it though.

[Rob Russell]

Bob,

I'll agree with most of the comments you've heard so far, but have a few things to add - some of them pretty important.

First, I have a Stihl 040 that I bought used from a local dealer. The equivalent in the modern line is the MS441. It's my understanding that the 046 (currently the MS460) is the saw that the National Guard has used for years.

Anyway - my saw has been great. Cantankerous at times to start if you don't burn the gas out over the winter - but that's my fault. More than enough power - 5+ HP. I have used the saw for crosscut and ripping, where ripping requires a lot more power.

You are going to a remote location. There is a list of things you need to take:

Oil for the gas mix
Bar oil
Spare chains
Sharpening equipment
I sounds as if the stuff you want to cut up is down but on a beach. If that's the case, I'd look into carbide-tipped chains. Sand is going to dull the chain teeth very quickly. If the wood you're cutting up is the type that's near the beach and (as some tropical woods are like) sucks up grit into the wood, you will again need chains that can withstand the grit.
If you have a lot of "limbing" to do, where you are taking off the little stuff before you start chopping up the main trunk, consider taking 2 saws - the 2nd saw being something like the Stihl MS260. There's a difference in 4 pounds (40%) between the saws and - if you're doing a lot of limbing - the smaller saw will be easier to handle.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

You know, sawing up trees on a beach in the Bahamas sounds pretty good, dosen't it? I bet about 50 of us would volunteer to help....:D

[John Callahan]

Husky or Stihl ............... both are good ..........I'd base my final decision on having a good local servicing dealer.

[Bob Slater]

You know, sawing up trees on a beach in the Bahamas sounds pretty good, dosen't it? I bet about 50 of us would volunteer to help....:D

I'd sure get a lot done with 50 Creekers down there.. No Beer till sunset though.
So far the plane won't let me bring one, so my plans are on hold a bit. I was all excited about justifyfing this purchase, but I live in the city with no real trees of my own, and would have to take it to the park at night to use it. Will look into shipping and alternate airlines (No US carriers)

[Paul Libby]

Great advice being given here. I have a 30 year old L65 Husky, that is still going strong. I heated with wood for the first 10 years of it's life, and use it infrequently now. No shop repairs ever needed. Just changed the plug, fuel line and filter a couple of times. Stihl makes a great as does Jonsered. Take your pick. I would suggest you get some "cain saw chaps", a hard hat, goggles and ear plugs for safety equipment. Also a couple of plastic felling wedges and a hammer to drive them with. You will also want a spare chain and a means to sharpen your chains.

With a little looking you should also be able to find a book on tree falling. Read it and pay attention, tree falling (and limbing and bucking) exacts a dear price for inatention or miscalculation.

[Roger Reynolds]

I use the Stihl 361 with a 20" bar for felling and a Stihl 180 with a 14" bar for limbing/triming. I am very happy with the brand and combo. I went with the smaller saw for limbing because it is much eaisier to handle.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I'd sure get a lot done with 50 Creekers down there.. No Beer till sunset though.
So far the plane won't let me bring one, so my plans are on hold a bit. I was all excited about justifyfing this purchase, but I live in the city with no real trees of my own, and would have to take it to the park at night to use it. Will look into shipping and alternate airlines (No US carriers)

The beer moratorium may add to the safety I suppose...

Can you Fedex or UPS it to yourself?

[Rick Levine]

I'm also in the market for a new chain saw and decided on the Stihl 390. There is even a Stihl dealer/repair shop here in Santa Fe, NM which is quite unusual for a small town. The price was exactly the same as Albuquerque, another unusual situation.

[Bob Slater]

The beer moratorium may add to the safety I suppose...

Can you Fedex or UPS it to yourself?

Well Air Canada will let me take a brand new one in it's packaging. Went into a Borg today to look at what the ones I don't want cost and how they are built. Man all that plastic is a big turnoff. It didn't surprise me though. I can probably have one shipped to the island to coincide with my March vacation. I am enjoying all this reading and researching for a new tool though (thanks). The Stihl 28 on CL looks to be a quality unit, but I think I will be sourcing it in the US for ease of shipping unless I can get a deal here on one of the products mentioned in this thread. I love gas motors, so a tool that uses one is a plus.

[Seth Poorman]

I just bought a stihl 028 AV Super couple weeks ago,it was used in good condition and ive been using it about every other day because of the ice storm we had, and I have not had one problem w/ it yet..
The guy that sold it to me said he thought it was about a 10 yr old model.
I gave $200 for it and a new one was over$400. I bought mine at auction online. Good solid chainsaw!!!!!:):):)

[Kevin Godshall]

Last bit of advice.......... learn how to use a file, and educate yourself on what the rakers (depth gauges) do and how the tooth actually cuts. If you can sharpen your own loop when it needs it (I hand touch up mine on every gas fill), you will save your back, and your wallet (loops and bars).

Filing is not a hard task. It takes knowledge, practice and more practice.

[David Keller NC]

Looks like you've got your answer about what brand. Around here, professional tree crews almost exclusively use Stihls. I've yet to see one using huskys.

But never mind that - there's a couple of things I can add that might help you out:

1) Make sure the saw you buy has the horsepower to run the bar length. One of the most consistent mistakes newbies to chainsaws make is thinking that the bar size is to be matched to the size of the timber they want to cut, which is incorrect. The bar size needs to be matched to the engine size - it takes a large saw to run a 3 foot bar. In general, engines the size of the Stihl farm boss (used to be called the 029, I think it's a 290 now) should be matched to about a 16" bar. To run a 3 foot bar or so, you need a saw with an engine that's big enough to put wheels on and ride to work - in my case, an 066 Magnum (these are called 660s now, I think). This is not just a convenience issue - it's also safety. An engine that's too small for the bar size will bog and run slowly, which greatly increases the opportunity for binding and kick-back.

2) Make sure that you can get a 12V battery (trolling motor battery's ideal) on the island, and buy a power grinder from Granberg International. These grinders will correctly sharpen the cutters at the right angle, and grind the cutters all to a consistent cut depth (that's important to get a smooth-running, and safe, cut). You can try to do this with a file, but if you're a beginner, it's not easy to do correctly and efficiently.

Finally - ask what you'll be cutting up. One guy that came to the local woodworking club looking for hand tools was working felled trees on his island with a chainsaw lumber mill - it turned out to be cuban mahogany. To say the least, that shouldn't be turned into firewood...

[whit richardson]

I have the Husky Rancher, does great and has a nice anti-kickback safety off feature. If the saw kicks back fast it locks the chain immediately. I have seen tree crews with Husky and Stihl both but ... I think the lumber pro's use Jonsered's the most.

[Dennis Peacock]

The Stihl MS361 is the perfect choice by MANY arborists and I made my choice based on what the Pro's used for their mid-sized saw.....So I bought a MS361 and have never looked back.

[Bob Slater]

Great tips on the sharpening and bar length. So far it seems only gear made by Swedish or German companies gets the nod. I have read some great reviews of the Dolmar 5100, The Jonesereds , Husky's and Stihles. I am assuming the consumer models are all made in China now? I would prefer one made in Europe. Does $400 or so retail seem to be the entry level for a decent quality new machine made in Europe?

[Steve Southwood]

Another Stihl vote. Between the FIL and BIL, we have 5. All shapes and sizes.

One other thing. Make sure you can cut down the trees before you buy a saw. Don't know why I am thinking this, just don't know how stuff works down there. Would hate to see you on the news. " Dirty American starts deforrestation"

[Paul Downes]

Bob, Either Husky or Stihl will fit the bill. I would highly recommend that you do some reading @ www.forestryforum.com Read in the safety section and the chainsaw section. There is a lot to learn on what not to do.

These beach trees are going to contain a lot of sand. I would invest in a box of files plus a flat file for the rakers and learn how to use them. Some trees actually draw up silicates into themselves and those trees are very hard on saw chain. If you figure out how to get a saw down there I would make sure to take several extra chains. I would look into Carlton chain because it is harder than most others. Oregon chain is relatively soft. Stihl chain is O.K. Also figure on shipping plenty of mix and bar oil. Make sure you have blocks under the logs so they don't drop onto the sand. If you need to make further cuts you will dull the chain quickly when you hit the sand( and you will)

Get and use safety equipment. Minimum would be safety glasses and chaps. If you are doing any felling you need a helmet. You can get a helmet with ear muffs and face screen. Wear safety glasses under that - there will be plenty of sand flying around.

30" diameter trees are fairly large. You can get the job done with a smaller saw like a Stihl MS290(20" bar max) but you will be cutting from both sides of the log and it creates more chances to pinch the bar. What are you going to do if you pinch the bar in a 30" log with only one saw? Take some wedges and have an ax and have a hand saw handy. You might want to make an inquiry in the neighborhood down there to see if someone has a chainsaw available. It's a bummer to have your one saw pinched good and no second saw.

I use a 385xp (24" and 42" bars) Husky most of the time and have a Stihl 029 (20" bar) as my topping saw.

Always lock the chain with the chain brake when walking, or climbing on or over logs. or moving in any way where your footing could be questionable. Always be aware of where you feet are and NEVER cut toward them. Be especially aware of tension wood such as limbs trapped, long heavy limbs, etc. They can kill you in a split second. Think about where the limb is going to move when you cut to release the tension. Position yourself so tension wood moves away from you. If you get tired, take a break. Read up on kick backs and always be aware of were the bar tip is at.

There is a lot more to learn so read up and be safe. I know several folks who have been maimed or killed when logging/cutting firewood. All the accidents were avoidable and all were caused by operator error. I still love being out in the woods cutting wood and will be out there later this week making small ones out of big ones. Got to beat the snowstorm coming and get some wood to heat the house.:D Be safe!!!!!

[Bob Slater]

The trees are all down already and there are a few more to come. They were on a steep embankment and a few years ago a big storm eroded a lot of the soil away. Down they came all over he beach. It looks like a scene out of some North West beach. I know this wood is very dense from trying to bend the branches that are cluttering the place up. Many thanks on the safety tips. I am not going to approach this haphazardly, especially since there is no hospital on the island and minimal medical facilities (the pharmacy didn't have tylenol or a thermometer last time I visited!)