Oneway 1640 coring ?

[Jack Mincey]

I have a ? about coring on a 1640. If been doing my coring at the school where I teach shop. I'm wanting to get the OneWay base unit for my personal lathe. Here is my ?. If I buy the 16" base for my inboard side of my lathe can I use the base unit on top of my riser block on the outboard side so that I could core blanks larger than the inboard will allow. The reason I don't just buy the 24" base is that I like to core with the tail stock applying pressure on the blank and there just isn't enough room to do this.
Jack
PS here is a pic of the cherry burl HF I call the swiss cheese ball. The CA was put on bad spots after it was turned. I hope it holds together during the drying process.

http://usera.ImageCave.com/flyrod444/100_1323.JPG
http://usera.ImageCave.com/flyrod444/100_1325.JPG

[curtis rosche]

i dont know a thing about the coring stuff, but that burl is cool. you should leave the run out from the glue on it, it looks like it is oozing,

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I would give Kevin Clay at Oneway a call, that would probably be your best bet to get the answers and what's needed if anything.

[Harvey Crouch]

Jack, I have been pondering the exact same question. Please post whatever you come up with. Which knives will you buy for the 1640?

[Jack Mincey]

Thanks Curtis, the glue does look strange on it.
Leo,
I called OneWay today and Kevin is out till next week. The person I talked to was not sure and thought that it best that I wait and ask Kevin.

Harvey,
I will buy all 4 knive sets for the system. I have 1 thru 3 at my school shop and have had to borrow the number 4 set several times to core the larger burls my students have brought in. I will let you know what I find out. I don't see why the 16" wouldn't work on the riser block.
Jack

[Bernie Weishapl]

Jack the only problem I could see is could you slide the base around with the riser block or would it stay in one place. I move my base around depending on the size of bowl I am coring. If I want smaller I slide it away from me and larger I slide it toward me if you catch what I am saying.

By the way Jack. Great HF.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jack - no concept on the coring, Hope Oneway gets an answer to you real quick! Just stopped in to comment on your HF! Love it as is! Looking forward to seeing the finished version just because of the before/after contrast! Nice work so far!

[Jim Kountz]

Thats the wierdest burl I have ever seen, how neat is that?? Nice job!!

[Andy Hoyt]

Short answer - yup.

Long answer - Only hitch is that on the inboard side you'd use the 16" coring rig and still have ability to use the tailstock. That's easy. But outboard, you'd want the 4" riser block (sold separately) and the 24" coring rig. Your standard 1640 tailstock will sit on the riser block outboard of the 24" rig. There's room, but not much for a really deep bowl.

Better answer - faceplate the beast and forgo the tailstock.

[Allen Neighbors]

I like Andy's answer. Faceplate is best. But I have tried to use the riser block for my tailstock, and set up my coring rig in the toolrest on the outboard of my 1640. Once. The riser block and tailstock wouldn't fit all the way on the extension ways. It got in the way of my coring rig. But I don't have the OW coring system. I have the McNaughton rig. So this info may not help you at all.
I use a Nova Titan chuck on the inboard most of the time when coring, and never use the tailstock.

[Jack Mincey]

Thanks for the info. What I have in mind is to use the coring system on the inboard side most of the time so that the tailstock can be used. When I get a big one I would like to use the 16" tool base on the riser block and core the blank with it mounted to a face plate so the use of a tail stock would not be needed. I don't see how one could use the tail stock on the out board side for very big blanks either.
Thank Again,
Jack

[Jack Mincey]

I talked to kevin at ONEWAY and he said that the 16" base willl work on the riser block with out the tailstock. So I will be able to core large bowls on the outboard side with the blank mounted on a face plate using the 16" base on the raiser block without the use of the tailstock.
Jack
Here is a updated photo of the swiss cheese cherry burl bowl. The wood was dry on the out side of the burl so this bowl shouldn't move a lot. It is turned to finial thickness of 3/16" +or- a 16th. I went ahead and put a couple coats of sanding sealer on it and it should be ready for finial finish in less than a month.
Jack
http://usera.ImageCave.com/flyrod444/100_1327.JPG

[Walt Caza]

Wow Jack,
Just incredible wood, and incredible work!
Thanks for the follow-up.
And thanks for sharing your hole-y bowly...

hope you get some shop time,
be well,
Walt

ps be sure to give us a peek when it's finished

[Steve Schlumpf]

Glad you got the 'official' answer to your coring question. Great looking hollow form! Love all the inclusions and the rich cherry burl color!

[Dave Ogren]

Jack,

Really impressive, great job. Thanks for the info on the coring question. My question is what do you think about the Kelton Coring as compared to the Oneway ?? Thanks again, and hey, you have a whole truck load of those burls. Happy turning.

Dave Ogren in Asheville, NC

[Jack Mincey]

Thanks everyone. Dave, I've never used the Kelton Coring system, but a few of our club members have and found it hard to use. Only one of our members feels comfortable using one. The thing I like about the oneway system is how accurate one can core with it and how easy it is to use. Being a drafting teacher for years the oneway is a lot like setting a compass point to draw an arc. If you move the base in the right way the chance of cutting the bottom out of a bowl is small. I know it is limited in the depth and shape of bowl much more than the Kelton, but it is what I've used so I will stay with it until I use something that I like better.
Jack
P.S. Dave, I am going to try and make one of your club meetings this spring.