Your recommendations on a quality counter sink set

[Dewey Torres]

Yep,
I broke one of the bits off my old set and I am trying to continue my crusade to buy the best I can afford in the likelihood that I will not have to soon replace it. My old set was a BORG xmas present and had lasted me 4 years. Now I am ready for maybe a tapered set (but not stuck on anything) ??? Any thoughts?

[Eric Brown]

I really like this one from Lee Valley
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=41012&cat=3,41306,41328

It did a really good job on my 3/4" dog holes and works well on the smaller holes too.

Eric

[Russ Massery]

I have a set of these. they work great. But buy the driver that snaps over the the bit that holds the driver bit. They don't include in this set. But it makes going drilling to driving a lot easier. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10609&cs=1

[Per Swenson]

I know, but its just a opinion.
If you are going to be serious about this, go back to Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32309&cat=1,180,42240)
and spend the money.
Half measures availed us nothing.

Per

[Phil Thien]

I countersink a fair number of 1/4 and 5/16" holes. I like the piloted bits from McMaster. The pilot is either 1/4" or 5/16" and guides the countersink into the perfect center of the hole.

The Lee Valley countersink looks great, too. I've often been tempted, but so far have been able to keep my cash in my pocket. But I sense weakness on my part. :D

[Al Willits]

Dumb question...is 82 degree's the standard for wood screws?

Al

[Larry Edgerton]

I use some short stepped machine bits that are made here in my home town by Link Industries but for the life of me can not remember the name. They cut the plug hole with less tearout than any other bit I have used, but do require you drill the screw hole. This actually works better many times as the exit hole is not drilled until it is clamped up, so no burr/splinter and the hole in the corresponding piece is lined up correctly. I'm not at the shop now but will try to remember when I get there to look. Any time you re-enter a plug hole the plug does not quite fit as well.

I have a tapered set as well, but can't remember that either. :)

I am heading to the shop, I'll try to remember and post.

[Gene Howe]

My favorite set is one from Fuller. See it here: http://www.wlfuller.com/html/type__c__sets.html

also use this set from LV: http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=40127&cat=3,41306,41328

Of the two, I prefer the Fuller set.

[William OConnell]

I have a snappy set. Which wasn't the cheapest but have yet to break like so many of the cheap sets Ive bought
http://www.woodcraft.com/search/search.aspx?query=snappy+set&refcode=06INOVER&keyword=snappy_drill_adapter_set

[Bill Huber]

These are not cheap but as I replace the cheap current ones I have this is what I am going with.

http://www.garrettwade.com/countersinks-and-counterbores-with-non-marking-free-wheel-stop-collars/p/08G01ddd11/


At one time I found another set that had a non-marking stop but I can not find them now.

[Clifford Mescher]

Dumb question...is 82 degree's the standard for wood screws?

Al
Basically it is standard for most wood screws. Now, I understand that alot of metric versions have 90 degrees.Clifford

[David Keller NC]

I prefer the all-in-one types that have an integral, tapered drill bit inside a counter-sink cutter. The Home Despot sells a Dewalt set that includes 3 bits - a #12, a #10 and a #8. They're a fair bit more than the made-with-slave-labor Wolfcraft that I used to use, but they're very high quality. They're about $24 for the set with quick-drive attachment.

[Dewey Torres]

OK,
I have it narrowed down to (3)

the snappy posted by Will:

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5519

Per's LV recommendation:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32309&cat=1,180,42240

and the Fuller set posted by Gene:

http://www.wlfuller.com/html/type__c__sets.html

As you can see I am ignoring price as a factor. I like Per's LV set best BUT it doesn't have a quick change which I have grown used to. Any additional thoughts?

[Matt Benton]

I'd go with the Snappy's...

[Steve Clardy]

I have el'cheapos

I have snappy
I have Fuller



I use em all, mostly the snappy brand

[Dewey Torres]

Tapered Snappy it is... added 2 Bessy 40" to reach free shipping threshold and were back in business!

Thanks Creek!

[Bruce Page]

Tapered Snappy it is... added 2 Bessy 40" to reach free shipping threshold and were back in business!

Thanks Creek!

Another happy ending!

[John Thompson]

I prefer the all-in-one types that have an integral, tapered drill bit inside a counter-sink cutter. The Home Despot sells a Dewalt set that includes 3 bits - a #12, a #10 and a #8. They're a fair bit more than the made-with-slave-labor Wolfcraft that I used to use, but they're very high quality. They're about $24 for the set with quick-drive attachment.

"They're a fair bit more than the made-with-slave-labor Wolfcraft that I used to use"...

Of all the counter-sinks I have used I like the Wolfcraft with the tapered bits. Different strokes I suppose. But... I am very curious as to how you know that Wolfcraft counter-sinks are made with "slave labor"? If that is the case... I would indeed re-consider my purchase of any Wolfcraft.

Sarge..

[Per Swenson]

Though Dewey has all ready made his decision,
I should point out that the LV is a Fuller set.
That goes for the rest of the high end house sets.
Green Box = Fuller
Just saying.

Per

[Jason Whitaker]

These are not cheap but as I replace the cheap current ones I have this is what I am going with.

http://www.garrettwade.com/countersinks-and-counterbores-with-non-marking-free-wheel-stop-collars/p/08G01ddd11/


At one time I found another set that had a non-marking stop but I can not find them now.



Now those look like a nice New Years gift for myself :D

[Dewey Torres]

Though Dewey has all ready made his decision,
I should point out that the LV is a Fuller set.
That goes for the rest of the high end house sets.
Green Box = Fuller
Just saying.

Per

Per and all,
I have made a second decision....

I am also buying the LV set Per posted as I believe it is the highest quality and that is what I am after.

Like some here would agree I do my fair share of quality work but also spent most of the summer working on a landscape project that included a shed a walkway and cut / drilled through tons of PT lumber. Now I will have a SUPER FINE set for fine woodworking and a really great set for everything else. Sometimes we just can't get the best and the most practical tool to fit every job.

Thanks Per.

[Al Willits]

Basically it is standard for most wood screws. Now, I understand that alot of metric versions have 90 degrees.Clifford

Thanks Cliff, I have several different angle countersinks from my metal workings, and wasn't sure.

Al

[Doug Mason]

Fuller = quality

[Alex Shanku]

I like Per's LV set best BUT it doesn't have a quick change which I have grown used to. Any additional thoughts?


I dont use a quick change setup. I keep the countersink/drill chucked in my cordless drill motor, and the driver for the screw in my Bosch 10.8 V driver. Two tools vs one, but just as fast, imo.

[John Thompson]

Since there was no reply to my question of "how do you know that Wolfcraft counter-sinks are made with slave labor" I will shed some light without one as to anyone who might be considering them just so you know without assuming.....

Wolfcraft is a German company which I knew.. the counter-sinks are made in Germany and this is stamped on them. The Dewalt package of 3 mentioned is stamped Made in China or the U.S.A. with made in China listed first. I looked yesterday while at the BORG.

So.. draw your own conclussion of whether there is slave labor in Germany and where the DeWalts are actually made?

[Clifford Mescher]

Since there was no reply to my question of "how do you know that Wolfcraft counter-sinks are made with slave labor" I will shed some light without one as to anyone who might be considering them just so you know without assuming.....

Wolfcraft is a German company which I knew.. the counter-sinks are made in Germany and this is stamped on them. The Dewalt package of 3 mentioned is stamped Made in China or the U.S.A. with made in China listed first. I looked yesterday while at the BORG.

So.. draw your own conclussion of whether there is slave labor in Germany and where the DeWalts are actually made?
Thank you John for clarifying that fact. I am a firm believer in correcting things as rumors spread fast through cyber space. Clifford.

[Clifford Mescher]

Thanks Cliff, I have several different angle countersinks from my metal workings, and wasn't sure.

Al
Your welcome,Al. Sometimes I will countersink my hardware with 82 degree so it just cleans up, just to make sure it seats right.Clifford.

[John Thompson]

Thank you John for clarifying that fact. I am a firm believer in correcting things as rumors spread fast through cyber space. Clifford.

Yeah they do it seems, Cliff.... or at least my experience from posting on various forums for 6-7 years.

Sarge..

[Rick Hubbard]

Yep,
INow I am ready for maybe a tapered set (but not stuck on anything) ??? Any thoughts?

Hi Dewey
I have a mixed collection of counter sink bits, most of which rest peacefully in one of those drawers where old drill bits go to die. I’m not sure who manufactures the ones that are still functional and in regular use, but I can suggest some things to look for when you make your choice:

First and foremost: Choose bits with a hex shank’
Second, make sure you buy bits with the largest possible set screw;
Third, the best design is where the countersink is an integral part of the hex shank shaft.

Home Depot used to carry the Wolf Craft brand of tapered countersinks that met requirements one and two (above) but that had very tiny and wimpy set screws for the bit itself that pretty often stripped the threads. The upside was that they were fairly long lasting, they were available individually AND in sets and there was a ready supply of tapered bits for reasonable prices.

Now Rockler has a 3 piece set that looks intriguing. They are not “low budget” by any means ($ 55 for a 3 piece set) but they seem to be worth looking at. Here is the link
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=18013

Rick

[Alex Shanku]

Hi Dewey


First and foremost: Choose bits with a hex shank’
Second, make sure you buy bits with the largest possible set screw;
Third, the best design is where the countersink is an integral part of the hex shank shaft.




Of all the things to look for in a countersink setup, this really doesnt play into my list at all. I wonder why it is your first and foremost requirement?

Al

[John Thompson]

Hey Rick, my local HD still carries Wolfcraft counter-sink sets of 4 but dropped the individuals for whatever reason. BTW.. I have never had a problem with stripping the thread on any and I have been through a few. I purchased 5 #8's several years ago as I rarely use a #10 or #12.

But even though I have no problem with the hex screw stripping I have broken off several bits with the blame on me. I absolutely love the tapered drill bits so I would rather replace the bit with a taper. I noticed you stated the bits are sold separately. HD does have a set of 4 but not an individual #8 which is my bread and butter.

So... to your knowledge did HD carrry individual taper bits at one time? If so.. I can contact Wolfcraft to see if any source might have them or they can be ordered as I physically checked my HD yesterday.

Thanks...

Sarge..

[Jim Tobias]

Garrett Wade has a set of Fullers on sale. Got their catalog yesterday.
Jim

http://www.garrettwade.com/journeymans-taper-point-set/p/06B02ddd02/

[Clifford Mescher]

Garrett Wade has a set of Fullers on sale. Got their catalog yesterday.
Jim

http://www.garrettwade.com/journeymans-taper-point-set/p/06B02ddd02/
Went to sleep with that on my chest last night. Had some good sales. Clifford.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have always been partial to this:

http://www.jackrabbittool.com/

Doc

[Rick Hubbard]

Of all the things to look for in a countersink setup, this really doesnt play into my list at all. I wonder why it is your first and foremost requirement?

Al

Hi Alex-
This is probably a matter of experiences where, when drilling through hardwoods like maple, the bit will actually spin in the drill chuck. This is likely to happen, I grant you, only when drilling through thick stock or sometimes when using a drill with one of those wimpy hand tightened chucks, but it has been an issue in the past and so the hex shank is a "must" for me.

Rick

[Rick Hubbard]

So... to your knowledge did HD carrry individual taper bits at one time? If so.. I can contact Wolfcraft to see if any source might have them or they can be ordered as I physically checked my HD yesterday.


Sarge..

Hi Sarge-

I had to ponder this question for a while, but I think the answer is yes, they did carry them in the past. I also used to be able to buy Wolfcraft tapered bits at Aubuchon Hardware, but I just checked their web site and don't see them now.

Rick

[James Adinaro]

These are not cheap but as I replace the cheap current ones I have this is what I am going with.

http://www.garrettwade.com/countersinks-and-counterbores-with-non-marking-free-wheel-stop-collars/p/08G01ddd11/


At one time I found another set that had a non-marking stop but I can not find them now.


Are these the non-marking ones you were referring to? Also not cheap.

http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=151-337&search=Countersink

[Tim Null]

I have the Lee Valley. Even though it is not quick release, they work great.

I have one drill set up for drilling and another set up for driving.

Actually, I have the 18v Makita Drill and driver set and the Bosch 10.8v set as well.

Just put in some custom pullout shelves in the pantry for the LOML (Christmas present).

I used the Makita drill to countersink the holes for the 1/2" spacers for the slides, the Bosch impact driver to drill the holes for the slide screws and the Bosch driver (non impact) to drive the screws.

Didn't have to change bits once!......LOL

TimN

[John Thompson]

Hi Sarge-

I had to ponder this question for a while, but I think the answer is yes, they did carry them in the past. I also used to be able to buy Wolfcraft tapered bits at Aubuchon Hardware, but I just checked their web site and don't see them now.

Rick

Thanks Rick, I have a suspicion that it may be a thing of the past for HD which has cut inventory on slow movers. I will contact Wolfcraft and see if they still make them and explain I can't find any local. I may just have to seek another tapered bit. You do what you have to do. :)

Sarge..

[Bill Huber]

Are these the non-marking ones you were referring to? Also not cheap.

http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=151-337&search=Countersink


Yes James those are the ones I had found and then lost, they look really good.

Thanks....