Design critique Router Fence

[Chip Harlow]

I'm looking to redesign my router fence. It was originally a Pat Warner copycat fence. It was ok, but I didn't like the fence faces and fence backing, so I've incorporated some 80/20 into the design, and am using 3/4" UHMWP for the fence faces. See attached SketchUp. Looking for critiques, comments, suggestions prior to build. Thanks for you thoughts!

Chip

[Bruce Page]

It looks pretty darn nice to me Chip. The only thing I might do differently is move the runners outboard of the clamps to provide less potential for racking. Is that a travel indicator on the left there? Nice touch.

[Jim Dunn]

Nice design Chip. I would make one change, and it ain't much, but I would incorporate a 2" travel dial indicator and place one on each end. I found that a 1" travel limits my ability to make radical adjustments without always moving the indicator.

[scott spencer]

Chip - That's a really nice design. One concern came to mind...I'm wondering if the fence might be prone to lifting when it's extended forward....perhaps not, but something like dovetail slides would prevent it if it were to occur. Nice work!

[Chip Harlow]

Thanks Bruce - I had been thinking the same thing, so I've moved them outboard. See revised pic.

Jim - thanks and will consider, but I don't run into that big of a movement once I get it into close alignment. Using the dial indicator primarily for micro adjustments.

Scott - the overhang isn't as much as it might look, plus there is a lot of wood still sitting on base and clamped down.

[Bruce Page]

Looks cool Chip. Be sure to post pictures of the real McCoy when you get it built.

[Chip Lindley]

From your isometric drawing, I cannot tell how, or IF, you provide adjustment for halves of a split fence. If you are going to the extreme of adding a dial indicator, fine tuning screws should be added to both infeed and outfeed fences, with guides to insure they remain co-planar. Otherwise, the dial indicator would best be fixed over the threaded adjustment at the center of the fence. Any indication at the end of fence will certainly vary from the center. IMO, I find a one-piece fence more solid and accurate for majority of work.

95% of all my work is done against a ball bearing guide (as in pattern shaping or making mouldings). The bearing can easily be aligned with the fence face with a straight edge. If only a partial profile of a particular cutter is desired, the fence is adjusted to allow only that part of profile to protrude. But, micro-adjustment IS nice when making close tolerance sliding dovetails or other cuts demanding a good fit.

Think thru thoroughly what you really DEMAND of your fence, and decide how much resource you need to include, and where!

[Jim Dunn]

I had in mind more movement of the fence than just a little. I have used my dial indicators to move the fence a full 3/4" which was nice for cutting large groves. Also by having 2 indicators the fence stayed parallel to the cutter end to end. Just a thought.

I added a link to the table I built below.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=56059

[Bruce Page]

That is a nice looking setup Jim.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Chip,
Two things to consider...

1. Some type of bit guard. Perhaps attaching off the dust collection box?

2. Provision in the UHMW fences to incorporate a couple of fingerboards to apply downward pressure. It beats fumbling with clamps ...especially with that slippery fence material.

Even without my two cents, your design looks pretty good.

-Jeff :)

[Jim Dunn]

That is a nice looking setup Jim.

Thanks Bruce. It's seen a lot of use.