Tung oil and Linseed oil

[Rick Lucrezi]

I am thinking about oil finish for all my wood trim, furniture, cabinets, doors ect. I have seen some stuff on milk paint mixed with tung oil and like that finish as well for stuff. I really dont have that much experience with anything other than laquer. I just put min-wax tung oil on my VG fir entry door, I put 3 coats, but it keeps soaking in, has a bit of sheen but not the glossy wet look I was hoping for. I know there is a pure tung oil and a product to top coat tung oil to give it the glossy wet look, I wanted some real world input for the pros and cons. I sure like how easy the tung oil applies. And is there a noticeable difference between tung and linseed?

[Joe Chritz]

Is it tung oil or tung oil finish?

Tung oil finish is just a wiping varnish. Tung oil is an oil from the tung tree, actually from the nut of said tree.

For finish neither forms a film finish and for all practical purposes are pretty interchangeable. Boiled linseed oil has some additives or is processed to speed drying time. Otherwise it takes forever to dry completely, like pure tung oil does.

Usually oil is used to enhance the grain and then top coated with some other finish. For trim and cabinets I would definitely look at using a film finish of some kind.

Joe

[Jim Becker]

The Miniwax "Tung Oil Finish" product is a wiping varnish and as far as I know, doesn't contain any tung oil in its ingredients. It's certainly appropriate for your trim work if you want to use a wiping varnish, but you could do better financially making your own by mixing any oil based varnish product 50/50 with mineral spirits.

BLO would not be a good choice as "the" finish, although for some species, it's a nice first step to add color and pop the grain. Using pure tung oil would also not be a good choice...it takes a LONG time for each coat to dry and offers minimal protection, although a "little" more than BLO.

[Howard Acheson]

Minwax Tung Oil Finish is an oil/varnish mixture containing linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits. It contains no real tung oil at all. It is a penetrating finish that produces a soft luster, not a high or hard sheen.

It's intent is to mimic a traditional oil finish. It produces a minimally protective finish suitable for projects that do not get much abuse. It would not be appropriate for something like an every day kitchen table or kitchen cabinetry. For interior house trim it would probably be OK unless you want a harder, more glossy finish. In which case, use a film finish like shellac, lacquer, oil or waterborne varnish.

You can easily make your own oil/varnish mixture by mixing equal amounts of boiled linseed oil, varnish or poly varnish and mineral spirits. Apply, let soak in for 15-20 minutes and then wipe dry. Let is dry overnight and then do it again being sure to wipe dry after the second application.

[Rick Lucrezi]

My house is a lodge type, alot of exposed beams and wood trim. I like the idea of a finish that will repair easy. I heard that an oil finish just needs to have more oil rubbed in to deal with small scratches and dings, where as a poly type or "film" types require a resand. Again its not my area of expertise.
Sounds like the minwax was the wrong product. I have been putting it on my front door. I still want that shinny wet look though. Can I get this with a oil finish?? WHat are the correct steps?

[Howard Acheson]

An oil/varnish is easily repaired or renewed. Just apply some additional finish with 4/0 steel wool, let it set for 15-20 minutes and wipe dry. It should blend in fairly completely. After it dry sort of feather the repair with some dry 4/0 steel wool.

An oil varnish is not a good choice for exterior applications. For an exterior door, the best long term finish is a true marine exterior varnish. YOu can't by this type of product at a big box. You must go to a real marine supply store or chandlery. Look for brands lilke Pettit, Wolsey, Interlux or, best of all, Epifanes. Follow the directions on the label and be sure to put on the number of coats called for. UV protection is a function of film thickness.

[Rick Lucrezi]

Thanks Howie. So how about the inside? Is the oil finish ok inside of an exterior door?

[Howard Acheson]

Thanks Howie. So how about the inside? Is the oil finish ok inside of an exterior door?

Generally, but it's safest to use the same finish on outside, and all edges.

[Rick Lucrezi]

Well, may be too late then. I have the oul on the inside. If the exterior finish is oil based it shoud ok I would hope. I guess I will tape off the inside, then do the edges and the exterior with a good marine grade product. I will start looking. Thanks

[Lee Koepke]

Well, may be too late then. I have the oul on the inside. If the exterior finish is oil based it shoud ok I would hope. I guess I will tape off the inside, then do the edges and the exterior with a good marine grade product. I will start looking. Thanks
at the very least do the edges (tops and bottoms too ) with the exterior product, tops and bottoms are the parts most people forget to do.

I dont know, maybe the marine finish is compatible with the oil you already used on the interior and you can use that finish on the inside too. Maybe someone else could confirm / rebuke that ...