Table saw vs. Track saw

[Craig Richmond]

Hi,
I have been reading on the DeWalt Track saws along with the reviews. Currently I have a Jet table saw (XactaSaw) and a DeWalt DW718. I normally just stick to projects around the house and may try doing some cabinets for the closets. The DeWalt will do most any mitering that I might need. With that said, what will the table saw do for me that a track saw can't or vise versa? I guess I am looking for pros and cons.

[Dewey Torres]

Oh boy... what is the brand name on that can of worms?

I just put some popcorn in the microwave. This is going to be a good one:)

[Craig Richmond]

Thanks, LOL

[Howard Miller]

I look forward to this thread. I have been eyeing the Eurekazone EZ-Smart system.

My question is with track saw systems, how do you make sure your cut is at 90 degree?

[Craig Richmond]

I would think that you would have to have a true edge to begine with and the measure from there. But, that is one point twards the table saw.

[whit richardson]

Well... yea where are the novel writers on this one?

table saw can do dado, grooves, rabbet, cross cut and setups for repeatable cuts either rip or crosscut. Track saw not so...

you can cut tenons, raised panels, miters, splines, etc on table saw. Track saw not really..

You can swap all types of blades for different woods, products, cuts and better quality than what you can find for a dewalt circular saw.

a few things to consider....

[Jason White]

The tracksaw is great (I have the Festool), but you really also need a tablesaw IMHO.

With the tracksaw -- in the time it takes to make your pencil marks, get your track perfectly on the line, hook up the dust collector, plug everything in, then make the cut..... get the picture? With a tablesaw, you just set the fence and make the cut.

That said, there are obviously times when a tracksaw (or even just a skillsaw with a straightedge or chalk line) makes more sense. This is especially true if you need to make cuts outside of the shop and can't take the tablesaw with you. The tracksaw is a remodeler's dream!

For me, the track-type saw made sense to buy because I cut a lot of plywood for cabinets and such. For me, it's just much easier to be able to take the saw to the material instead of the other way around (especially in a shop as tiny as mine). But for the most part, it's much easier for me to use the tablesaw when I just need to make a handful of quick cuts, provided that the workpieces are a manageable size.

Plus -- tablesaws are just plain FUN!!! :D I'm still drooling over the new Unisaw, but the RIDGID contractor saw will just have "to do" for now.

Jason


Hi,
I have been reading on the DeWalt Track saws along with the reviews. Currently I have a Jet table saw (XactaSaw) and a DeWalt DW718. I normally just stick to projects around the house and may try doing some cabinets for the closets. The DeWalt will do most any mitering that I might need. With that said, what will the table saw do for me that a track saw can't or vise versa? I guess I am looking for pros and cons.

[Peter Quadarella]

We could be here for a very long time going over what a tablesaw can do that a simple standalone track saw cannot. The Eurekazone suite of add-ons attempts to replicate (and exceed) what a tablesaw can do, and at it's heart it is a track for a circular saw. I would suggest checking out that sub forum under Manufacturer's forum here at sawmillcreek.

[Craig Richmond]

Since my table saw was used, it did not come with a miter. The one I was looking at was about $100 and rather than sinking the money then decide to sell the table, I thought I would ask. But, I think Whit Richardson answered my questions quite well. Even though I may not do some of the cuts from month to month, one day I have a need and then am stuck.
I think the track saw has a great purpose and if I was cutting 4x8s several days a week then I would get one. Thanks guys for the input.

[Bruce Page]

Plus -- tablesaws are just plain FUN!!! :D I'm still drooling over the new Unisaw, but the RIDGID contractor saw will just have "to do" for now.

Jason

Me too, and I have a Unisaw!

[Paul Johnstone]

Since my table saw was used, it did not come with a miter. The one I was looking at was about $100 and rather than sinking the money then decide to sell the table, I thought I would ask. But, I think Whit Richardson answered my questions quite well. Even though I may not do some of the cuts from month to month, one day I have a need and then am stuck.
I think the track saw has a great purpose and if I was cutting 4x8s several days a week then I would get one. Thanks guys for the input.

I don't know if the deal is still in effect, but they had the MastRSlide for around $400 recently. Yes, that is expensive, but if you consider how much a track saw costs, and how much an upgraded miter gauge cost, it is not too bad.

I still use a regular circular saw and straight edge sometimes, but it's mainly those rare occasions when I have to make a 4' crosscut across a sheet of plywood (and obviously for rough "home improvement work").
The MasterRslide will crosscut to something like 32" or 34".. I don't remember exactly.

[Per Swenson]

Simple.

I can no longer do without both.

Per

[Rick Potter]

I am pretty sure I have a couple miter gages in the shed. How 'bout if I let you have one reeeeel cheep, like free? Do whatever you want about the track saw, but you will regret letting go of the table saw. I assume the Jet takes a standard miter gage.

E-mail me if this helps.

Rick Potter

[Bryan Parlor]

I look forward to this thread. I have been eyeing the Eurekazone EZ-Smart system.

My question is with track saw systems, how do you make sure your cut is at 90 degree?

Using the Ez smart bridge on a power bench you align the rail to a squaring fence fixed to the bench. You can then raise and lower the bridge and the cut is always 90 deg. Stops on the squaring fence allow repeat cuts to be made if you need a number of identical panels.

The Youtube video below shows how a square cut is made using the bridge.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOggcHgGvnw&feature=PlayList&p=86D181C9AAE89F63&playnext=1&index=3

When cutting large sheets of plywood its often an advantage to bring the saw to the wood rather than having to hike the heavy sheets around. The ezsmart rail can be used with a square to make finish cuts as shown in this Youtube video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFi80yzUHR0

I have had my Ezsmart system for just over 2 years now and sold my table saw and router table.

N.B. the Ezsmart system uses your existing circular saw and router and any saw can be easily modified to give excellent dust collection for a few $.


Bryan

[Justin Leiwig]

I'm not a proponent one way or the other. Everything walt specified can be done with a tracksaw and the addition of a router table to the shop. It would be easily stowable, portable and cheaper than a nice tablesaw.

[Burt Waddell]

In 2004, after having the second of 3 major surgeries, I finally decided to try the EZ rail. I was just looking for a way to handle plywood more easily in my cabinet shop. SInce then, I have sold both of my unisaws. a panel saw etc and now rely on the EZ Smart Power Benches and rail system.

Along the way I went thru a phase that is where Per is now - I had to have both. Now I am operating with just the "track saws" and find it faster, at least as accurate, and much safer. The really big thing to me is it takes a lot less effort to do the work. I have my plywood stored flat on shelves kind of like those at the borg. I can slide a sheet of 3/4 ply off the stack and on the cutting table without ever picking it up. I then set up the repeaters and the EZ rail and rip one or a dozen pieces to the same size - no ruler required. I can leave the rip laying where I cut it and then pickup a cabinet maker and cut as many pieces to a set length as I desire. Or if I prefer, I can take the ripped piece to a cross cut PBB and do the cross cuts. I've still got enough "Table saw" in me to want to rip first.

Others don't have the table saw background and prefer to cross cut first and then rip out the pieces. This can be done easily with the cabinetmaker or the power bench or a combo of the two.

My personal experience is using the EZ Smart equipment is much easier than using the traditional table saw. Also safety is much better. Some of my power benches are equipped with Uni fences.


Burt

Added. I noticed the comments about the miter gauge. I've modified a couple of the incra's by replacing the miter bar with an EZ connector. WIth that in a EZ rail, I cut any angle I want. I also use one on one of my power benches as a stop for gang cross cuts.

[Alan DuBoff]

I'm still drooling over the new Unisaw, but the RIDGID contractor saw will just have "to do" for now.
I have a soft spot in my heart for those Ridgid contractor saws, I bought a used 3612 when I got back into woodworking about 5 or 6 years ago...what a great little saw that was, but it was just not powerful enough to really do the type of work that I wanted. Still, I really loved it, it was easy to use, reliable, and pretty darn accurate. It was a fun saw to use, had a built in mobile base, you will not find me saying a bad word about those saws. The 3650 is similar, although made in China, still a good saw.

In fact I bought my Ridgid out of the for sale forum on SMC, as I recall...had to drive about 1 1/2 hours to get it just outside the bay area. Bought it for $250 and sold it a few years later for $500 (it was dressed up nicely though with blades, miter, etc...).

However, I really have to appreciate my replacement for the Ridgid, as I was cutting 2 1/2" hot dogs today...my Ridgid would have struggled with this, but darn I still love that little saw...I don't think it could cut through this size hot dog unless you were really patient and accurate, I could stall it with 8/4 maple on a fairly slow feed with a good blade. I never tried 8/4 hickory, that would be a test, but it struggled with 4/4 hickory. Still, a great darn saw!

[Kelly C. Hanna]

The only thing I would use a track saw for would be breaking down the plywood sheets before they go into the TS...my shop is small and full sheets are hard to handle on the big cuts. Otherwise, I wouldn't need one at all. Right now I use an 8' level [$48] with two clamps [$12] and a Hitatchi circ saw [$89 at Lowe's].

[whit richardson]

But can you do a glue up on a track saw or set down a coffee cup plus 4 or 5 tools then the mail from yesterday all on one surface?

:D

[Jeff Bratt]

My 2¢ - I have a table saw, RAS, and a shop-made made circular saw guide. Track saws are really great at cutting up big and medium sized sheet goods. Table saws are probably better at ripping narrower pieces, and cutting joinery - like dados, tenons, and rabbets. There's also significant overlap - both can handle a lot of normal cuts - like crosscuts, miters, and smaller panels. The EurekaZone forum here has a lot of information about their track saw system - their web site has some pictures and video (http://eurekazone.com/gallery/) of how their stuff works.

[Paul Demetropoulos]

I was recently offered 300 10ft 2x4s free if I was just willing to haul them away. I've been working in an unframed block wall shop for 20 years, always wanted to frame it out but just never got around to it. Now here was a chance to do it for free but when I saw the 2xs maybe 2/3 were usable, and many of those were bowed to some extent.

But the cheapskate in me got the upper hand and I took them, well I got my son to pick them up. I figured I'd straighten one edge no problem and slapped together an 8ft plywood sled and started running them through my Unisaw. It worked but wasn't so easy, infeed/outfeed stands falling; needed a better way.

So I did what I always do when I have a problem, I googled it. "Straightening Dimensional Lumber" etc., and I stumble on this guy on Utube with a funny accent doing amazing cuts with this guide. Well I knew that funny accent being of Greek heritage, I've heard it my whole life, and this guy seemed to have just what I needed. The EZ guy.

So I ordered two sections of the EZ guide, it comes with clamps to hold the workpiece and a carrier for the saw. Mounted a PC74?(whatever the right hand verson of the 743 is) and easlily put a straight edge on the 2x4s. Now my PC just makes it through a 2x, and I was worried that the bowed stock would be away from the guide and not get cut. But the extrusion on the guide is so stiff and you can put the clamps anywhere along the guide, you can actually pull the bow up tight to the guide.

I only have the basic guide but it's quite versatile, I cut up a sheet of birch ply with the same 24 tooth blade I used on the 2xs with almost no tear out. Not quite ready to junk my Unisaw but this does things a tablesaw won't.

[Jason White]

Yeah, I have the newer version (TS3650) and have no complaints -- especially since I also have a Festool track-type saw.

It's still my dream to have a cabinet saw someday, but it'll have to come with a bigger garage. ;)

JW


I have a soft spot in my heart for those Ridgid contractor saws, I bought a used 3612 when I got back into woodworking about 5 or 6 years ago...what a great little saw that was, but it was just not powerful enough to really do the type of work that I wanted. Still, I really loved it, it was easy to use, reliable, and pretty darn accurate. It was a fun saw to use, had a built in mobile base, you will not find me saying a bad word about those saws. The 3650 is similar, although made in China, still a good saw.

In fact I bought my Ridgid out of the for sale forum on SMC, as I recall...had to drive about 1 1/2 hours to get it just outside the bay area. Bought it for $250 and sold it a few years later for $500 (it was dressed up nicely though with blades, miter, etc...).

However, I really have to appreciate my replacement for the Ridgid, as I was cutting 2 1/2" hot dogs today...my Ridgid would have struggled with this, but darn I still love that little saw...I don't think it could cut through this size hot dog unless you were really patient and accurate, I could stall it with 8/4 maple on a fairly slow feed with a good blade. I never tried 8/4 hickory, that would be a test, but it struggled with 4/4 hickory. Still, a great darn saw!

[Talbert McMullin]

I have owned tablesaws for 40 years and will never own another. I dumped my latest tablesaw and went for the Eurekazone system and I have not looked back. ANY track-type saw system will beat ANY tablesaw, period.

After numerous minor injuries and one semi-major one, after taking up space in my limited shop, and attempts to keep tablesaws tuned up, I had simply had enough.

Tablesaws are yesterday's technology. Hello, 21st century!

[John Carlo]

I have a 10" Sears Cabinet Saw, a 12" De Walt RAS and 12" De Walt miter saw, and a TS 55 with a 55" and 110" track. Each has unique uses not easily accomplished on the other saws.

For the Festool: I save a ton of time at the jointer by using the 110" track on long boards to take out a bad curve prior to jointing. I took the FS to my daughter's house to quickly trim the bottem edges of some passage doors after she got new carpet. Last week a friend asked me to shorten two Formica counter tops. He expected me to use the table saw but the dynamics of maneuvering something that large across the TS is not something I choose to do. I could have used the RAS with the fence moved to the rear position and lower the blade into the cut, but that is too much like work. I used the 55" track to cut as much as possible off and then aligned a block of squared up wood to the kerf to serve as a guide for a Japaneese style saw to finish the cut through the backsplash.

[Paul Murphy]

Question for the guys who sold their table saw: Do you mostly work with plywood?
I mostly work with solid hardwood, and I rip so many boards that I think I would be slowed by not having my table saw.

I did build a couple cabinet projects, and sure wished for a track saw during the sheet breakdown stage. I ended up building a homebrew crosscut T-square circular saw sled, and cutting most sheets in half with a circular saw. I work alone, and moving a full 4 x 8 sheet across the table saw makes for way too much work. Same thing with large glued up solid wood panels such as dining room table tops, too big and heavy for me to crosscut the ends on a table saw.

Question for you DeWalt and Festool track saw guys: Are your saw units more rigid and precise than the better framing type circular saws, or is the quality of cut simply a function of the track?

[Neal Clayton]

hi eurekazone marketing department, welcome back to the general forum, thanks for randomly bumping old threads, people love that stuff.

[Eric DeSilva]

ANY track-type saw system will beat ANY tablesaw, period.

Huh? Something is wrong here. I'd love to see the last cove cut you ran with your tracksaw.


After numerous minor injuries and one semi-major one, after taking up space in my limited shop, and attempts to keep tablesaws tuned up, I had simply had enough.

Ah.

Frankly, sounds like you had a bad saw, insufficient training, or poor judgment. I tuned my saw once, when I set it up. Its worked fine since then. No injuries. When I feel like something is dangerous or a potential problem, I figure out a way to do it that is safer.

I own both a TS and a track saw. If I was only building euro cabinets, I might get rid of the TS. Since I don't just build euro cabinets, I find a TS indispensable.

My problem with all the TS v. tracksaw debate is simple, and its the same issue I have with religious zealots--the inability of the converted to recognize the fact that if a solution works for you, is it not necessarily the case that it will work for everyone else in the world. It doesn't mean it isn't a solution for you. It just means that it isn't necessarily the solution for me.

[Eric DeSilva]

I figured I'd straighten one edge no problem.

I ran across a lot of bent 2x4s when framing out walls in my shop... I think my answer was to offset the framing slightly from the concrete (good idea anyway) and powernail PT blocks to the wall, and pre-bend the 2x4s back to square before nailing them to the PT blocks.

Crappy 2x4s are so reactionary I'm surprised they didn't warp again as soon as you cut 'em.

[Cody Colston]

Does the restoration of this thread seem suspicious to anyone else?

[Eric DeSilva]

Does the restoration of this thread seem suspicious to anyone else?

Dang. I usually notice this. Been noticing a lot of "revived" threads recently. At least this one is only 4 months old... Keep seeing threads come back from 2006. At least I notice those.

[Billy Chambless]

Does the restoration of this thread seem suspicious to anyone else?

Well, it's an eternal subject, so I guess it's better to bump an old thread than to start yet another one.

Tomorrow, we'll do "Tablesaw-centric versus Bandsaw-centric shop". I don't think we've done that yet this year.

;)

[Tony Bilello]

Are most people that would rather have a tracksaw than a table saw in the construction trade? Like in needing job site tools?
I just cant imagine using a tracksaw instead of a table saw to build furniture. I'm sure it can be done, but I wouldn't want to.
These types of posts, while interesting are very confusing to newbe's.
With strong opinions on both sides a newbe will be left in the same place he started from.

[Billy Chambless]

My problem with all the TS v. tracksaw debate is simple, and its the same issue I have with religious zealots--the inability of the converted to recognize the fact that if a solution works for you, is it not necessarily the case that it will work for everyone else in the world. It doesn't mean it isn't a solution for you. It just means that it isn't necessarily the solution for me.

Well said.

[Billy Chambless]

I just cant imagine using a tracksaw instead of a table saw to build furniture. I'm sure it can be done, but I wouldn't want to.


I've been having a great time building furniture without either, so maybe it just depends on one's approach.

[Kevin Looker]

I have a Festool saw & guide rail and a table saw.

The Festool is better for crosscutting sheets & the table saw is better for rip cuts - huh, go figure.

It's easier & faster to get repeatable cuts on a table saw: set the fence once & go. With a guide rail you have to mark each cut individually then position the rail for each cut - more time consuming and greater chance for error.

I like my Festool saw & rail but it's no replacement for a table saw with a good fence.

[Mike Heidrick]

I agree, buy both a tracksaw and tablesaw, and a bandsaw.

[Loren Hedahl]

Question for the guys who sold their table saw: Do you mostly work with plywood?
I mostly work with solid hardwood, and I rip so many boards that I think I would be slowed by not having my table saw.

I did build a couple cabinet projects, and sure wished for a track saw during the sheet breakdown stage. I ended up building a homebrew crosscut T-square circular saw sled, and cutting most sheets in half with a circular saw. I work alone, and moving a full 4 x 8 sheet across the table saw makes for way too much work. Same thing with large glued up solid wood panels such as dining room table tops, too big and heavy for me to crosscut the ends on a table saw.

Question for you DeWalt and Festool track saw guys: Are your saw units more rigid and precise than the better framing type circular saws, or is the quality of cut simply a function of the track?


Awhile back I considered building a larger shop, but after counting the costs of building, maintaining, taxes and all replaced a large table saw with a Festool track saw setup and a DeWalt bench top saw. I am quite satisfied with the economies of the decision.

Previously I used a Makita hypoid circular saw with a set of home made guides for breaking down plywood and straight line cutting out the wavy edge of hardwoods. The Festool is better for the following reasons:

1) The Makita didn't have a soft start function and would jump slightly upon start-up.

2) The Festool guides are stiffer than the plywood guides I used previously.

3) The Festool saw base captures a ridge in the track making mis-tracking impossible. My home brew set-up required me to advance the saw as well as to keep the saw tight against the guide rail.

4) The Festool has a speed control to match blade speed to cutting requirements.

5) The Festool plunges precisely to initiate a cut and un-plunges precisely when the cut is completed. I believe I get better cutting results at each end of the cut because of this.

6) Sawdust pickup is almost 100 percent with the Festool. It seemed that the Makita delighted in throwing sawdust in my face and all over my shop.

Hope this helps.

[Carl Babel]

How do you guys do small precision work?

With a sled on my table saw, I can make very precise cuts on very small pieces (rip, cross, or miter - even compound). I can clamp the piece down and pass it through the blade very safely. I can also see precisely what is happening to the piece and I know how to make adjustments. For housed cuts, it is easy to sneak up on just the right line. With my tenoning jig, I can get perfectly centered shoulder cuts.

I am not saying that this can't be done with a track saw/router, I just can't envision it and would like to hear how you guys do this, if you do.

[Neal Clayton]

Does the restoration of this thread seem suspicious to anyone else?

yeah, didnt' noice the dates, edited my previous post to more accurately represent the conversation.

[Mark Roderick]

"I just cant imagine using a tracksaw instead of a table saw to build furniture."

As a long-time woodworker who has always relied on a tablesaw but is now thinking about the Festool or Eureka Zone approach, I'd like to explore that thought.

I'm thinking about how I have always used a tablesaw. Mostly for ripping material. The tracksaw is much better for sheet goods (I've always used a home-built table for the sheet goods), but ripping a typical board for a table top does seem easier with a tablesaw. Is that what you mean?

My thinking is that if I'm ripping, say, a six or eight foot length of hardwood the tablesaw can get a little sketchy. I need to hold the piece tight against the fence and if there's any bow or twist it can be a safety problem. This is my own personal experience. The idea of securing the hardwood and running over it with a circular saw seems possibly better.

It's true that for dados and grooves you've have to use the router, which is louder and more time-consuming.

Norm Abrams uses his tablesaw for everything. I've never done that, so I guess it's easier for me to think of doing away with it entirely. What operations do you use the tablesaw for that you couldn't do in some other way?

[Andrew Joiner]

http://home.fuse.net/thewizard/FeatherBoard.jpg

I made a featherboard with a caster wheel on the end of it similar to this. Mine has the wheel closer to the blade. It makes ripping long stock accurate and safer.