Shopnotes #59 Modular Shop Cabinets

[scott winthrop]

I'm about to embark on my first large scale wood project but need some advice regarding my shopnotes suggested material. The original shopnotes plan calls for standard douglas 2x4 material..okay no problem...but when i look at the cutlist it calls for dimensions of 1 1/2 x 3 1/4. All of the standard 2x4 material i have seen is a bit smaller and would be even more so after running it through the jointer.

Should I not worry about the size differance and adjust the plan accordingly using smaller stock or should I order larger stock, say 8/4 lumber and run it through the planer?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[Dewey Torres]

Scott,
Don't over-think it too much just ensure that any deviation form the plans fits well in real life and you will be fine. I can't remember the last time I followed plans to a tee.... actually yes I can, the parts didn't fit which explains why I gave that up:rolleyes:.

The folks who write these are humans just like us. Double check everything as if you designed it from the floor up and you will be amazed how many errors you find in a medium to complex article with plans.

[Tom Veatch]

I agree with Dewey except I don't think I've ever built anything without some deviation from the plans.

Decide on what final dimensions you can expect to get from the raw stock - depending on the finish cut lengths of the various pieces, the 3 1/4 may be ok, but I'd expect the 1 1/2 will wind up closer to 1 1/4 or maybe 1 3/8. Look close at the plans and identify the changes needed to accomodate the stock dimension you decide you can achieve. Mark up the plans with those changes, especially on the cut list or you'll cut something too short (been there, done that, cussed, made another trip to the lumber yard for replacement material). Then make sawdust.

[glenn bradley]

+1 with Dewey and Tom. Like the Pirate Code, plans are more like . . . guidelines.

[Darrin Vanden Bosch]

Aren't 2x4's actually 1 5/8 x 3 5/8? With this you could plane it down to what you want or just a little less.

Darrin

[Jamie Buxton]

If you're going to use construction lumber for furniture, be aware that it may be sold green -- that is, completely undried. It will shrink and may warp as it dries in your furniture. There is also kiln-dried construction lumber. It is typically dried to 19% moisture content. This isn't as dry as cabinet wood is generally dried -- 9% or so -- so it will still do some shrinking as it dries, but at least it is less than what the green stuff will do.

[glenn bradley]

Aren't 2x4's actually 1 5/8 x 3 5/8? With this you could plane it down to what you want or just a little less.

Darrin

Anywhere from 1-1/4 x 3-1/4 to 1-5/8 x 3-5/8 around here depending on the mill (and sometimes not even then).

I will chime in with Jamie on construction lumber. I bought kiln dried construction lumber to make part of my workbench. Even after being stickered in my shop for two months the lumber still continued to shrink after construction :eek:.

I will be re-making these parts. The real pain was that I had so much waste that I could have bought quality lumber at the limber yard and spent about the same amount without having to do it over. Wow, did I ever save money on that one :rolleyes:.

[Greg Cuetara]

Glenn and Darrin,
Actually a 2x4 is 1 1/2" x 3 1/2". If it is anything other than that then it is not a 2x4. There are standard dimensions for dimensional lumber. If you go into a lumber yard and buy a 1x6 it will be 3/4" x 5 1/2" no matter where in the country you buy the 1x6. Same as a 2x4.

As to the OP I would get some lumber in your shop and let it sit for a while. I have heard that you should let construction lumber 6 months or more but if you can't afford that much time then build it with kiln dried lumber. You can normally get better quality lumber at a real lumber yard which will stay straighter over the long haul. If you do decide to use a regular 2x4 you can take off a little bit each side and then it will be perfectly square. Typically construction lumber has the edges rounded over.

Good luck and post some pictures.
Greg

[Chris Schumann]

If you're worried about trimming the round corners of a 2x4 off, you could buy 2x6 and cut both edges off. I did that for a mobile base a couple of months ago. (Mostly I bought the 2x6 because it was much less warped than all the 2x4s in the pile, but being able to cut off the edges was a nice benefit too.)

[Dave Shawley]

If you're worried about trimming the round corners of a 2x4 off, you could buy 2x6 and cut both edges off. I did that for a mobile base a couple of months ago. (Mostly I bought the 2x6 because it was much less warped than all the 2x4s in the pile, but being able to cut off the edges was a nice benefit too.)

Nice idea on using 2x6s Chris. I've never considered it when I was busy cussing about the warped 2x4s at the local HD. I will definitely have to remember this next time around.

[Ralph Barhorst]

If you're worried about trimming the round corners of a 2x4 off, you could buy 2x6 and cut both edges off. I did that for a mobile base a couple of months ago. (Mostly I bought the 2x6 because it was much less warped than all the 2x4s in the pile, but being able to cut off the edges was a nice benefit too.)

I used 2 x 12s for most of my workbench. I found that the wider the wood, the straighter it is. The 2 x 12 will make 3 nice 2 x 4s. The cost is a little bit more, but the scrap is almost non-existent.