Driving screws with hand brace

[Jim Mackell]

I need to drive a large number of #16 wood screws using a hand brace. I have seen the common screwdriver bit that fits into a hand brace. Most of them have a sleeve that helps hold the screw straight while it's being started.

My problem is I can't find them on any web site no matter what search terms I'm using. Does anyone know the correct title for these bits? Or even better, a vendor that sells them?

Thanks!

[Howard Acheson]

I would strongly suggest you use phillips head screws. They will drive straight and, providing you use the correct phillip size, will not cam out like a slotted screw will.

Also, be very careful driving with a brace. You can apply much more force than you can with a screw driver or a cordless drive. It's easy to wind the head right off the screw. Drill pilot holes and coat the threads in a paste wax or paraffin.

[Ken Milhinch]

I have two questions, viz;

Why do you need to drive them with a brace ?

Why did you post this twice ?

[Sonny Edmonds]

Here is a set from Garrett Wade that includes socket type screw drivers (http://www.garrettwade.com/product.asp?pn=47B01.01&sid=W6600027&eid=Stanley%20Brace%20and%20Bit&gclid=CJnk6_XX5JcCFRykagodIC8pDA&bhcd2=1230514137).

That the first thing I've found so far. Take a gander at it.

I have some bits like you are refering to, but they are heirlooms, so you'll have to wait till I'm dead to get them. :D

I'll dive back in and see if I can find anything else. I found some sort of a home made lookin thang on Ebay, but clicked on right away.

[Sonny Edmonds]

BINGO!

Lookit here. (http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/product_info.php/products_id/3163)

Not that top one!
Lookit down the page a little. ;)

[Chip Lindley]

I have never seen these magnetic sleeves as large as #16! Those are HUGE screws. Moreover, most of those screw starters have a hex shank to fit into a drill chuck. Hand braces I have seen have jaws to hold a 4-sided, wedge-shaped shank.

If there is such a bit this large to fit your particular need, I am afraid *the Amish aren't telling!*

[Sonny Edmonds]

Easy there Mate. He's got a studder in his finners. :eek: :D

[Craig McCormick]

No answer to your question here, but... I buy and sell pre 1950's travel trailers. Occasionally we also repair or restore one. I have found a couple brace bits that were lost/left inside a trailer when it was being assembled at the plant. One travel trailer was manufactured in 1938 and the other in the late 40's

cm

[Bill Houghton]

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32300&cat=1,180,42337&ap=1

maximum flexibility, because you can get the 1/4" hex bits in any hardware store in an incredible number of configurations.

I concur that you should consider Phillips, Robertson (square), or other positive-connection screws. As pretty as slotted screws are, they can be difficult. If, of course, appearance matters, then that's different.

Lubricate the screws. Wax is best. Either furniture wax or paraffin from your grocery store.

[Chip Lindley]

Well, Sonny just made a liar out of me! But these bits do not have the *guide sleeve* you desire! I am afraid this is as good as it gets, until an Amish entrepreneur get in cahoots with DeWalt!

As an aside, I just threw away a 3lb. coffee can full of #10 flat-head wood screws left over from the '70s! I swear to never use another slotted wood screw ever again. The advent of *drywall* screws made my life SANE long ago. But good luck in your endeavour, whatever the reason! HappyNewYear!

[Sonny Edmonds]

Well, Sonny just made a liar out of me! But these bits do not have the *guide sleeve* you desire! I am afraid this is as good as it gets, until an Amish entrepreneur get in cahoots with DeWalt!

As an aside, I just threw away a 3lb. coffee can full of #10 flat-head wood screws left over from the '70s! I swear to never use another slotted wood screw ever again. The advent of *drywall* screws made my life SANE long ago. But good luck in your endeavour, whatever the reason! HappyNewYear!

Now come on, Chip. It wasn't intentional. Besides, check them post times Friend.
I knowed about them thangs because of my Grand Dads, Dad, and my own experiances.
No hard feelins I hope. :o

[Jim Mackell]

Sorry about the double posting - my roadrunner was acting up and it gave me an error message when I first tried it.

Thanks for all the tips - don't know how you did it, but that's almost exactly what I need. Still would prefer the guide sleeves but beggars can't be choosers.

Yes, I would absolutely prefer to use square drive screws or even phillips head screws. But I'm involved in restoring a 100 year old trolley car and I'm required to use the same screws as were originally used. I'm working with 100 year old reclaimed (recycled) red oak and need to use #16 common screws as that was what was used "in the good old days".

On the sections that use bolts, we have to use square headed bolts. Now those are hard to find!

Sonny, how soon do you plan on being dead? :D

[Steve Schoene]

If cam out is the problem square drive (Robertson) is the way to go. Phillips is very prone to cam' ing out, though a slight bit more tolerant if you get a bit off on the angle. But cam out is part of the original phillips design concept.

[Sonny Edmonds]

No telling.
If I'd have known I was gonna live this long, Ida took better care of myself.

[Bill Huber]

You can make a driver very easy my Dad used to do it all the time.

Just get the screw driver the size you want and an old bit. Cut both of them off and weld them together.

If you don't have a welder then take the parts by a metal shop and I am sure they will do it really cheap, it just take a few min.

The other way to make one is with a collar with set screws in it, just grind a flat on each part and they use the set screws to hold them together.

[Mike Parzych]

Wow - this thread takes me back about 40 years when I used to work on the real old Brinswick billiard tables. Same big square headed bolts that held the frame together and a brace and bit to drive the screws that held down the slate. You could (and had to) put a lot of torque on the screws with a brace.