Do You Rip on the Bandsaw?

[Art Davis]

Just got the current issue of Shopnotes (V 18, Issue 103) and read an interesting article recommending ripping on the bandsaw rather than on the table saw.

Sure would be safer, but I really wonder if it works out in practice. I have never been able to hold a very tight line on the bandsaw---even with my Rockler fence in place.

So, what do you think? I'd sure love to be able to do it because the article makes the point that you can actually rip at an angle to get better grain matching.

[Sonny Edmonds]

Well sure, Art. Some of the really Famous Amos' never owned a Table Saw. I believe Sam Maloof is one.

I got given a chunk of ancient redwood bridge timber and took it down to working stock by ripping it on my Band Saw.
First I had to cut it on my TS to get it to manageable pieces. Then set up roller stands on both sides and did a scribed line cut for half of the length and set my band saw fence to follow the track of the blade. (Something you have to do whenever you change blades.)
Then I just used the fence for a guide and ripped off boards, half of them for 1" boards, and half for 3/4" boards.
I made them a lick wider than my finished thickness and planed them to final thickness.

But I can tell you this: If you get big ideas about sawin trees into lumber, just ask yourself how big of a tree can you pick up and man-handle. It can sure put a crimp in your idears. :eek: :D :o

I took those timber halves and planed them before I began sawing them down, that way the edges were nice and finished and held the chunk square to the band saws table.
But it can be some work!

I did that timber that way because it was such a prize piece of wood, and a band saw has such a tiny kerf.
But heck yeah you can rip on a Band Saw. I had to set mine up for 240 volts (finally) to get the job done. Something I'd been meaning to do anyway. The 1 1/2 HP motor kept tripping the 20 amp 120 volt circuit. But plugged into the 240 volt TS outlet, it just sang along.

[Paul Demetropoulos]

Hey Art,

I do rip way more on the TS but I use my band saw as well. I've got a 14" Delta with a 3/4 hp motor, and despite what some will say, I can rip and resaw just about anything. The key is setup and blade.

I used to use the Timberwolf and Woodslicer blades, both gave good results but I found a better way.

Michael Fortune wrote an article for FWW, Nov/Dec 2004 issue, entitled "Five Tips for Better Bandsawing". In it he debunks what he believes to be many myths in using the band saw, the need for high blade tension and compensating for blade drift for example.

His main point is that you need a blade with deep gullets and no more than 3 -tpi. He recommends one blade, a 1/2" 3-tpi that are made by Starrett but welded and sold by BC Saw & Tool in Canada. http://www.bcsaw.com/index.htm
Being lazy I like one blade for all my uses. Also, the blades are inexpensive.

I followed Mr. Fortune's suggestions for set up and use these blades and am very happy with the results. I find for successful ripping you need to have infeed and outfeed support.

[Jim Becker]

Sometimes I do, but with my slider, I tend to straight-line on the slider wagon with the workpiece clamped down. This works wonderfully outside of very narrow rips. Then, it's either the regular rip fence or off to the band saw, depending on what I'm doing. The one downside to using the band saw is that the cut surface, even with a TriMaster carbide blade isn't quite as good as the table saw finish cut, so I have to figure in a little more work after the cut in that respect.

[Stephen Edwards]

I use the BS for ripping only if the piece I'm working is too big for the TS (as in resawing) or, as Sonny mentioned, if I don't want to lose too much stock to the kerf of the TS blade.

[Jeff Wright]

I often rip with the bandsaw, especially when making rail and stile pieces. I'll dimension to final widths using the planer, stacking up to six pieces side-by-side and setting the digital planer to my final desired widths. It's a great way to insure equal sized components.

[Ron Jones near Indy]

I have ripped on my band saw and will again I am sure. I prefer my table saw, probably because it has a big outfeed table and the bs has none.

[glenn bradley]

If I am suspicious of a lot of tension release, I prefer the BS.

[chet jamio]

I often rip with the bandsaw, especially when making rail and stile pieces. I'll dimension to final widths using the planer, stacking up to six pieces side-by-side and setting the digital planer to my final desired widths. It's a great way to insure equal sized components.

I've never thought of doing it that way. Very neat idea. I'll have to try that.

[Barry Vabeach]

Art, I am using my BS ( 17 Grizzly ) for most of my ripping, the cut isn't as clean as a tablesaw, but it is much safer, IMHO. The only limit for me is that I can't rip very wide sheets of ply. Other than that, I prefer the BS.

[Randy Klein]

Since I don't own a TS, yes I rip on the BS. But lately most of my rips have been with the EZ bridge. At least the first straight line rip is. It's just too easy to line up your cut how you want it (ripping out defects, aligning the grain, etc).

[Paul Demetropoulos]

I have two of the EZ guides that make ripping , well easy. I don't have the bridge but it looks like a nice addition to the system Randy.

[Mike Cutler]

Just got the current issue of Shopnotes (V 18, Issue 103) and read an interesting article recommending ripping on the bandsaw rather than on the table saw.

the article makes the point that you can actually rip at an angle to get better grain matching.

I don't quite understand that second part completely?:confused: However, a band saw can most assuredly be used to rip lumber.
I have an 18" Rikon with a Lennox 2/3 varipitch Tri- Master blade on it,and it has no trouble at all. The cut may need to be cleaned up a bit with a jointer, or plane, but it's no big deal.
Ripping on a band saw takes power and a good blade, properly selected, same as on a table saw. Of course the band saw can rip a thicker board than a table saw.;).
Band saws are versatile,and cool. I'd give up both my table saws before I'd give up my band saw.

[Scott Wigginton]

I don't quite understand that second part completely?:confused:

I believe he is referring to if the grain direction you desire is not parallel with the edges, ie. on TS you are stuck with whatever edge you get out of the jointer.

[Rick Fisher]

I sliced up some 4x4 on mine today, not sure if that's what you mean?

I also use it to rip really small pieces that I would consider unsafe for a Table Saw.

If your guides are setup right, ripping on the bandsaw shouldnt be an issue, the only downside is the quality of the cut left..

[Mike Cutler]

I believe he is referring to if the grain direction you desire is not parallel with the edges, ie. on TS you are stuck with whatever edge you get out of the jointer.


Ahh... That's kinda what I thought was meant. Thank you.

[Guy Germaine]

I use both my table saw, and the band saw to rip. I always use the band saw when I rip 8/4 stock. I find it faster, and safer than the table saw. I usually joint one edge, and use that against the fence to get a straight cut.

[Michael Sobik]

Since I don't have a TS in my shop, yes I rip with my BS all the time :)

Sometimes I really wish I had a TS, but for cutting dados, rabbets, and bevels, not so much for ripping. Since I generally rip oversize and finish the edge with the a jointer cut quality doesn't matter so much.

[Jim Becker]

I believe he is referring to if the grain direction you desire is not parallel with the edges, ie. on TS you are stuck with whatever edge you get out of the jointer.

I do this all the time with my slider and when I had the cabinet saw, I even used a sled to allow a change in direction to optimize grain orientation. Using a band saw to do the same makes absolute sense and is a good way to kick a project up a notch in overall good looks.

[Art Davis]

Thanks for your responses, guys.

Several of you said you use the bandsaw because the thin kerf wastes less material. But that confuses me a bit because the lower quality of the cut line says I have to do more milling, right? So what’s the savings?

One of the reasons I posted my original question was a recent experience I had ripping 1 1/2 inch pieces of maple and cherry from 6/4 stock for a cutting board. The bend in the pieces was pretty severe after ripping and almost each edge required use of the jointer.

In fact, on my first cut from a real nice piece of cherry, the kerf closed up behind the blade and bogged down the motor of my Delta Contractor’s saw. I had to drive a wedge into the cut end before I could complete the rip. Of course, I was left with a magnificent (?) saw burn. (And, yes, I was using a splitter---a homebrew one made from a Simpson Strong-Tie bracket.)

So I was wondering if I could improve my ripping operation by using the bandsaw.

Art

[Sonny Edmonds]

Yes.

And as for kerf, once you have your fence dialed in on the band saw you will get very good quality of cut with a quality blade.
I usually see about a 1/16" kerf with the band saw.
More than 1/8" with the TS.
If both needed clean up, the Band Saw is still making less waste.

A Band Saw can't kick back like a Table Saw can. So that might be a safety consideration for some.
Band Saws have their hazards, no doubt. I half way cut off my left pinky with mine once. But that's another story... :rolleyes:

[Chip Lindley]

I consider these cuts on a bandsaw still to be deemed as *Resawing* only because the stock is too thick for a TS, OR special cuts need be made.

I *ripped* 1" off the edge of a railroad tie once upon a time with my 14" Delta BS, only because it was the only tool to do the job. Setting up to support an 8' long RR tie was *squirrely* to say the least! That tiny BS table is just not what the doctor ordered for ripping. Although it can be and is done, does not make it the best tool for the job. I LUV my PM66!

[Rick Thom]

This saw belongs to an acquaintance and is equipped with a shop-built 48x 50" torsion box out-feed table. He said it can be mounted or removed within 3 minutes! I would imagine that it increases the possibilities of what can be done safely and efficiently with a BS when you have a larger work surface.

[Wilbur Pan]

A couple of weeks ago, I was down in my basement yelling, "Stupid bandsaw! I've tweaked all your guides and you are still giving me a lot of drift??!?!?? Why did I bother to restore you last year??!!?!??! I'm surprised you can even cut a straight line through 1/2" pine!!!!"

So I guess I did rip on my bandsaw. ;)

P.S. I did get my drift issue worked out.

[bob hertle]

Best reason to rip on the bandsaw is if you are working with rough sawn stock. Even the slightest twist in an 8/4 rough board can cause the stock to shift slightly during the cut, with disastrous results on a tablesaw. DAMHIKT! (exclude sliders where the material is clamped down)

I work with a lot of rough sawn stock, so I've developed the habit of rough milling on the bandsaw. All ripping of rough stock, and any rips that I feel are too small or awkward to be safe on the tablesaw, I do on the bandsaw. I've got jigs for straight-lining, and subsequently squaring a second surface on large timbers. Largest I've done to date is 8x8 rough white oak, which I had no other way of processing but the bandsaw.

That said, it makes no sense to rip flat, predictable sheet goods on the bandsaw. That's why I have the Uni.

My 2 cents!

Bob

Happy New Year Creekers!

[lowell holmes]

I use the 3tpi BC saw blades as well. I use the 1/2" and 3/8" blades, I have the 3/4" blade, but my 14" Jet doesn't handle the 3/4" blade as easily as the 1/2"
I rip with the bs and also cut the cheeks of tenons with the 3tpi as well.
I have the Kreg fence and can adjust the cut to 1/32" inch. If your having trouble with ripping straight lines, you need to adjust the fence to the drift in your blade.

[Jeff Duncan]

I rip everything on a tablesaw as that's what it's made to do and it does it well. I've really never had any problems ripping solid stock rough or not. Although one thing that will give you a bit of a scare is if there's a lot of tension in the wood and it pops as your ripping it. Had this happen several times yesterday as I was ripping down some 8/4 oak for a set of doors. Using a bandsaw will not eliminate this, but will just make it a bit safer.
Also don't be mislead into thinking you can't get hurt on a bandsaw, it'll take you finger off just as fast as a tablesaw will. If you want safe use a handsaw, if you want practical use a tablesaw. Use the bandsaw if you just like using it. Or if your doing something other than straight rips.
good luck,
JeffD

[Douglas Brummett]

I have thought about ripping on the bandsaw, but for the most part the work support is lacking and the actual table is quite small. That outfeed table posted would make things much more tollerable (the big bandsaw doesn't hurt either). I am actually liking to rip with my circular saw for up to 8/4 material. If it is over 8/4 I am much more comfortable with the bandsaw.

I guess my answer is muddy. It depends on the material to be cut. If it is straight and not cupped I can go right to the TS. Otherwise I just go with what I think will work best and/or the safest method :cool:

[Peter Quadarella]

I do all my ripping on the bandsaw, with infeed and outfeed support. The downside of not having a big table is offset by the fact that I can let go of the piece and walk around the saw halfway through the cut if I feel like it. It works fine for me. The only exception is sheet goods which I use the Eurekazone powerbench for.

That said, the big table around that bandsaw looks pretty cool :).

[Ben West]

If you have access to FWW online, Gary Rogowski has a great video using the bandsaw, jointer, and planer to mill stock to approximate dimensions. He only uses the table saw to make the final cut to width, which is just a 1/16 or less.

This approach makes a lot of sense to me, as it minimizes the opportunity for kickback on the TS when cutting rough lumber.

But, there's always more than one way to skin a cat!

[Pete Bradley]

Several of you said you use the bandsaw because the thin kerf wastes less material. But that confuses me a bit because the lower quality of the cut line says I have to do more milling, right? So what’s the savings?
I use my band saw for a lot of rips. If you use a good 3 TPI band the surface it leaves behind only needs about 3 light passes with a hand plane.

Pete

[Shawn Honeychurch]

90% of my ripping is done on the Radial Arm Saw. Works great.

Shawn

[lou sansone]

the BS is great for ripping thick lumber. for 4/4 I use my slider

lou

[Lance Norris]

I use my bandsaws for ripping as well. I also use the bandsaw to true up edges for the jointer, when I have a severely crooked board. Instead of multiple passes on the jointer, I have a 100" straight edge/cutting guide that I use to pencil a straight line and then rip the line with the bandsaw. Since I buy all my lumber rough, sometimes a board gets home that isnt very straight.

I agree with Mike Cutler. I love my bandsaws, and although I dont want to give up my cabinet saw, if something had to go, it wouldnt be a bandsaw.

[Art Davis]

Well, now I am just a wee bit (make that a lot!) cofused.

Would someone care to define the difference between "resawing" and "ripping"?

Seems to me that our discussion here concerns cutting a board lengthwise to rough thickness, which I then joint and plane to surface properly.

So then why would I ever want to rip a board on the tablesaw---if the bandsaw does this well?

[Randy Klein]

Would someone care to define the difference between "resawing" and "ripping"?

Ripping and resawing are the same operation - cutting with the grain. In use, resawing is cutting to thickness and ripping is cutting to width.

[Chris Padilla]

Ripping and resawing are the same operation - cutting with the grain. In use, resawing is cutting to thickness and ripping is cutting to width.

For example, I resaw very thin veneers from very special or expensive lumber to get more yield from it.

I am finding more uses for my BS although the TS is still quite useful. All thick, rough lumber gets a trip thorugh the BS before anything else. It is just TONS more comfortable (and safe, IMO) to cut on the BS.