Zero clearance table saw insert

[Ray Schafer]

I finally finished my zero clearance insert. It doesn't seem like it should take two months, but I just never found it to be the top priority. Here are a couple of pictures.

I used my bandsaw to cut the rough shape and then used a pattern bit to finish the shape. You can see that it comes with adjusting screws which I had to drill for and counter-sink. I insserted a nail on the back (white) to simulate the stop on the original insert -- which keeps it from being thrown up from the back of the blade.

[Stephen Edwards]

I finally finished my zero clearance insert. It doesn't seem like it should take two months, but I just never found it to be the top priority. Here are a couple of pictures.

I used my bandsaw to cut the rough shape and then used a pattern bit to finish the shape. You can see that it comes with adjusting screws which I had to drill for and counter-sink. I insserted a nail on the back (white) to simulate the stop on the original insert -- which keeps it from being thrown up from the back of the blade.

Nice job Ray! I've been reading posts about making these ZCI's myself and will one day give it a shot, too!

[Ray Schafer]

I forgot to make a slit for my splitter/blade guard. I just did that and it is working great.

[Bruce Page]

Nice. It looks shiny, like metal, did you make it out of aluminum? If so, how did you cut the blade slot?

[glenn bradley]

Well done Ray. some of us wait till a small cut-off comes whistleing past our ear narrowly missing our eyeball before taking a few minutes to make a few of these :eek:. It is one of those things where once you've done it once, you wonder why you waited so long. Kinda like how it took me almost 2 weeks to get up the nerve to drill on my cast iron; after the first hole I finished all the rest in about 15 minutes. What was I waiting for? :confused:

[Paul Demetropoulos]

Ray,

Would be interesting to tell us what you used for a splitter, how you aligned it, etc.

[Ray Schafer]

I bought the phenolic rectangle that they sell at the woodworking stores. I then used the original TS insert as a template.

Once I had the insert cut to the right size (as I described in the first post -- bandsaw and then router), I taped it to the original insert so that I could raise the blade up through my new insert in the correct place. (My saw blade does not retract enough to put the insert in place before it has a slot for the blade.)

The splitter/blade guard is the original that came with my Unisaw. In order to cut the slot for it, I put the insert in place. I pushed on the back of the insert so that the front was raised above the table. I then moved my fence to make contact with the insert. I removed the new insert and put the original in place. I then used that fence setting to cut the slot for the splitter.

You see, the splitter has to be on the same plane as the blade, and so by setting the fence as I described above, when I cut the slot, it was at the perfect location. I just had to mark the new insert first so that I knew how far to cut.

I just went out and took a picture in case I am not describing it very well.

[Paul Demetropoulos]

Nice job Ray and thanks for the explanation. I drill a 3/4 inch hole in the insert right in front of the kerf cut of the blade to aid in dust collection. I ease the edges of the hole so the workpiece won't catch on it, which it never has.

[Ray Schafer]

That is a good idea and I am going to have to steal it!

[Tom Esh]

That is a good idea and I am going to have to steal it!

Well as long as you're drilling holes in it, how about a handy finger-hole (ala Bosch) so you can pop it out easily for blade changes? A bit hard to see with the white ZCI, but it's about 5/8 dia angled down at 45deg toward the front.
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[Dan Friedrichs]

Ray,

I had the same problem with the blade not lowering far enough to put the insert in place without the cut already being in it. The simple solution is to put a 7 1/4" circular saw blade on the TS to make a small initial cut, then use the 10" to make the rest. That way you don't have to worry about the insert being perfectly aligned over the old one.

Dan

[Jim Becker]

Outstanding job on that, Ray.

[John Thompson]

Nice job and the hole up front to place your finger in to pull it out would make life much easier. It will help a tad with dust control but if a piece of stock is over it you can call it not so efficient at that job... hey, it's still a finger-hole to pull it out when necessary so.... :)

Sarge..

[Steve Griffin]

Nicely done!

I used to make my own, but recently got lazy and bought one from grizzly for a new saw.

I used to always keep the standard insert in the saw for everyday use, and then put in a Zero clearance for thin ripping. Now I prefer to keep the Zero in and only use the standard for angled cuts. Better dust collection and less scraps under the saw with the Zero clearance.

-Steve