Homemade Tool Rest

[Mike Peace]

After coming off a Jet mini, I was used to doing a lot of smaller stuff so knew I would need a smaller tool rest than the 14” that came with the PM3520b. I had a master turner who also does metal work to assist me in making a couple of small tool rests while waiting on the shipment for my new Powermatic. OK, to be truthful he did almost all of the work except for the surface grinding and polishing which anyone could do. He cut a piece of the wall from a scrap of four inch diameter steel pipe to make the curved portion of the tool rest. I bought a three ft piece of 1” steel rod at a local steel fabricator for $16 to make the posts since they do not carry this size at the local Borgs. We only used about a foot so he has some left to make more rests. The 1” bar was actually a shade too large to fit in the banjo so we put it on a metal turning lathe and used an angle grinder on it to make it fit. I am very pleased with the shape and low cost compared to buying one. The basic shape is very close to the 14” tool rest that came with the lathe.

This was a very satisfying project. After this experience, I would encourage anyone who knows someone with metalworking ability to consider making a tool rest if they need something special.

[Clem Wixted]

[QUOTE=Mike Peace;747880]... He cut a piece of the wall from a scrap of four inch diameter steel pipe to make the curved portion of the tool rest. ...


Mike,

Nice tool rests. Did you cut or grind a notch for the pipe piece to fit into for welding? Do you have a clear close-up picture of the weld?

Thanks,

Clem

[Bob Hallowell]

Mike very nice! does he make the to sell?

Bob

[Bernie Weishapl]

Great looking tool rests Mike. Looks like they will do the job.

[Mike Peace]

Hope this helps. My digital does not seem to allow real closeup shots. I asked about the need to make a notch in the bar and he said it was not necessary. He did not cut a notch. He arc welded it to the top of the bar and filled in the areas around the weld for support and to make the transition between the two pieces somewhat smooth. Hope this makes sense.

[Mike Peace]

Bob, I doubt if he has any real interest in selling. He kind of works on swaps and favors with friends and members of the different turning clubs he belongs to. He enjoys teaching turning and working with folks in his shop but when by himself I think he would rather be turning!

[Clem Wixted]

Hope this helps. My digital does not seem to allow real closeup shots. I asked about the need to make a notch in the bar and he said it was not necessary. He did not cut a notch. He arc welded it to the top of the bar and filled in the areas around the weld for support and to make the transition between the two pieces somewhat smooth. Hope this makes sense.

Thanks, Mike.

Clem

[Walt Nollan]

Small tool rest are not that hard to make. The one pictured below took about an hour and less than $10.00. I do not have a mig welder so I used a 3/8" bolt. I cut the post at a 45, drilled and tapped it. The rest has 1/4 drill rod glued on with J B Weld epoxy. I did put a little JB Weld on the threads to prevent it backing out. I've used it for two years and love it.

Walt

[Ben Gastfriend]

That rest looks really good!

Sorry to 'thread-jack' but....

Walt, could you elaborate on the process you used to make your's without welding. I've been wanting to make a few extra TR's, but don't have the money to pay a machinist or rent a welder. Thanks!

[Walt Nollan]

Ben, First you need some round stock. I got a 7/8" grade 8 bolt, 8 inches long at my local OSH. This is the size of my tool rest post. I cut the head off with an abbrasive wheel. A hack saw, saw-zall will also work. I used my 6" tool rest as model for the height and cut through the opposite end of the bolt (threaded portion) at a 45 degree angle. The rest is 1/4 by 2" steel, 3" long. It is tapered to fit the post. I drilled two holes, one for a 1/4"x28 bolt which is then tapped. Approximatly 3/8" above that I drilled a 1/16" hole. This is for a pin so it would not rotate under a load. I used a finish nail that fit tightly. Pound it in! I then cut 1/4" drill rod slightly longer then the tool rest and ground a flat surface on the upper edge of the rest. Just take the edge off it. Then glue it in place with JB Weld. It takes a while to set up so you have time to position it where you want it and tape it down. This is for small turnings. I have to admit I got the idea for Laymar-craft.co.uk. He has all kinds of neat stuff. A really neat "how-to" site if you like metal work as well as woodwroking. Good luck and I expect to see some pictures of your next rest.

Walt

[Jim Underwood]

I know this is an old thread, but Mike brought it to my attention, and I wondered something....

I have some pipe hanging around the shop, and I could probably make one of these if I had a welder. I do have a friend with a bunch of welding and machine shop equipment, so I'm sure I could do it if I visited his shop.

But what I wanted to know is if one could braze the drill rod on to the edge of the pipe (using a Mapp gas torch)?

What about brazing the pipe to the post?

[Mike Minto]

I'll be making a 'floor-standing' rest for turning off the end of my Jet 1642 this spring -stand by for photos. nice looking rests you fellas made!

[Robert Snowden]

I make my own any size or shape that can be thougt of.

[Bob Bergstrom]

I would think brazing would work, but the reason most glue them in is to avoid the drill rod from warping. I used a 1/8 wheel on my right angle grinder and held the grinder on edge to cut a grove on the top edge of the pipe. I filled the grove with epoxy and set the drill rod in the grove. used some masking tape to hold it down and next day it was rock solid. Hasn't budge in over a year.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

You would loose the hardness from the drill rod if brazed.
I would not trust the weld to be strong enough on the toolrest if it was brazed like the one shown, but you could, if the flat bar was to go over the toolrest post and were able to braze the piece on to the top like that, however you do need a pretty good flame to heat a thick post and bar to make a good weld ;-))