Accent Table Finish

[Nick Mastropietro]

Well here it is, my first ever piece of in the house (as opposed to in the shop) furnature. It was theraputic and enjoying to build. Now the part I'm a bit uncertain about - finishing. The table is made of white oak except for the dowel accents on the lower stretcher tenon and mortise joints. I am open to any and all suggestions as I have no idea how to approach this process. I will say that I think I would like the finish to be semi-gloss. As far as the stain, it's easy for me to say OAK, but I don't know my options. So have at it, suggest away. I will be asking many questions so be patient with me. Thanks

[Scott Holmes]

Very nice work Nick.

You have many options dyes stain or both. Color is a personal choice, it's really up to you. (or spouse)

After the color choice you need to determine what the table will be subjected to to pick the proper finish. Wet glasses? Keys? Kids and their things?

As for sheen; a high gloss finish will highlight every flaw a satin finish will hide most flaws.

NOTE: If at any time she says "oh I like it just like it is, now" YOU ARE DONE!

Remember to wipe it down with a cloth damp with mineral spirits to remove dust and to check for milling marks, and glue.

[Ken Shoemaker]

Very nice table!!! That design is on my short list. I just hope I get it done as well as you have.

I recently finished a coffee table using Transtint dye and Waterlox for a finish. Waterlox is my new go toeven, though it's not cheap. I think it looks sooooo much more real than a "plastic film" look left by Poly. Many will tell you that poly should only be used on floor and I agree.

Good luck with your decision.... Ken

[Dave Verstraete]

Nick
+1 on Waterlox. It is easy to use

[Casey Gooding]

So are you set on a stain or dye??? I think too many people think you have to stain something. Certainly not the case. This piece would look nice with just a clear finish.

[Ken Shoemaker]

Casey makes a good point. Waterlox has tung oil in it so it would give you a slight amber color. With all the grain on the top it would indeed look great!!!

Ken

[Scott Holmes]

Waterlox is MADE from tung oil; the oil and resin have combined to make a new substance called varnish. Waterlox gets it's amber color more from the phenolic resin than it does the tung oil.

Varnishes made with linseed oil tend to be darker than varnishes made from tung oil; much darker than varnishes made with soya oil.

The resin is the other color variable. Phenolic resins are very hard and very amber also very UV stable. Alkyd resins are hard and very clear, and OK on the UV stability. Urethane resins (poly) are tough (NOT HARD) and amber and very prone to UV damage.

[Brad Westcott]

So are you set on a stain or dye??? I think too many people think you have to stain something. Certainly not the case. This piece would look nice with just a clear finish.

+1 on a clear finish. Even a hand rubbed oil may do the trick although it may take a while to really hit its peak.

[Nick Mastropietro]

Waterlox is the winner. I purchase a quart of Original Sealer/Finish and a quart of satin. The intent is to apply, hum I don't know maybe 2 coats of sealer then 2 coats of satin. Now can you please share your best advise on this application process My desire is somewhere between a satin to simi-gloss finish. I have read that several coats of sealer is a desirable finish, just looking for advise from users of this product. One more thing, there are a few very small areas where wood filler was used, is there something I should do to treat these areas to ensure that these areas do not stand out after finishing?

[Scott Holmes]

Wood filler should be "stained" before it is applied. Do what you can to hide the filler now, then top coat. Waterlox Satin will not buff up to semi-gloss. The sealer/finish product is thinned Waterlox Original. It is a gloss finish.

No need for the satin if you want semi-gloss. 9 coats of Sealer then 30 days to cure buff it out to whatever sheen you want.

Next time get a can of the Original and thin some of it 50%/50% with Mineral spirits and you have made your own Sealer/finish.

One can and you would have the ability to have any sheen finish you want with one of the best phenolic resin/tung oil varnishes on the market.

[Jamie Schmitz]

Just messin' around.

Table.jpg

[Prashun Patel]

That's really nice. If you have the time, then I really like this application method of wiping varnish or waterlox:

Wipe on Wlox with a rag. Let it sit for a couple minutes. Wet sand it into the wood with 400gt. When the surface appears dry, wipe off the slurry with a clean rag.

Next day, repeat with 600gt. I've worked up to 1500 gt with this, but honestly, didn't noticed a tactile diff past 600. The higher grits do seem to burnish the surface and make it shinier, but you can do that anyway with the next step:

Wipe on one final coat with a clean rag, just letting the surface get slick without being too wet. This final coat (for me) is just to impart a satiny sheen. It leaves the wood feeling like silk. If you want to build protection and sheen, add more coats - with a rag, not sandpaper. This will also make the surface feel progressively harder.

(caveat: I'm not a finishing expert; this is just my (not so considerable) experience)