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  1. #1
    This is my Guillemot Petrel. 17' built from paulownia strips and an assortment of reddish hued woods. Approx 48lbs. Check out Nick Schades patterns and books



    kayakgrass.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Huntersville, NC
    Posts
    169
    Anthony,

    Your Guillemot Petrel .is beautiful. An excellent build. "paulownia strips and an assortment of reddish hued woods".
    Can you tell me what Kinds of wood are in the "reddish" wood assortment? Did you build it from plans or a
    Guillemot kit?
    Whichever you did, it looks very well-made.

    I have some well-aged cherry boards
    and am thinking about using some for a darker contrasting wood and maybe even under-the-water line hull. The lighter color wood could be pine or Northern white cedar. Any thoughts on that?

    I have read the sample pages of
    Shades book and really like it. Have lots to read now but will add it to my bucket list

    Thank you

  3. #3
    Hi Don,
    Thanks for the nice comments. There is a step by step photo sequence on my website, but not sure if I can list the address according to this sites' rules.
    I have some cherry in there but its pretty difficult to sand compared to the softer wood of the paulownia. You will have the same issue using cherry and the cedar/pine. I also used redwood and mahogany. These two woods work really well with the paulownia and are about the same sanding consistency. I bought the plans and made it from scratch. I started out intending to use cove and bead router bits but ended up using a handplane and fitting beveled edges as I laid the strips in line. Schades book covered it pretty well. My next one will be a Millcreek16.5. Its a hybrid canoe kayak for two persons that is very stable.
    Good luck! Its a serious effort but well worth it in the end.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Huntersville, NC
    Posts
    169
    Anthony,


    Tried finding your website on Google but had no luck. Perhaps you could send me a PM with that link.
    Had not thought about the sanding differences in woods but can understand how that would be a problem. I’m glad you mentioned it and will be careful o the woods I select. I have lots to learn.


    I’m impressed that you made that Kayak from plans and did everything from scratch, You certainly did a great job on it.


    I have been wondering about the cove and bead type construction. Seems like it offers more interlocking between strips but will almost always leave a visible joint that would have to be filled - unless the surface is sanded at least to rid the ledge on the cove. OTH beveling each strip to exactly meet the next strip may be very difficult and time-consuming to do. As it is finished sanded, one could end up with a visible crack if the two strips don’t lay together flat. Maybe I”m making too much of this - Y don’t know.


    Good luck with your next project (Millcreek16.5.). That’s a very nice looking kayak for two people and you are sure to make an excellent job of that one also.

  5. #5
    I will send you a PM,thanks

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Fremont, OH
    Posts
    46
    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony Albano View Post
    This is my Guillemot Petrel. 17' built from paulownia strips and an assortment of reddish hued woods. Approx 48lbs. Check out Nick Schades patterns and books



    kayakgrass.jpg
    Beautiful kayak. Love the strip built the most. I have one started of paulownia but have lost interest in finishing. Maybe some day. Last I looked for paulownia wood I had trouble finding. Are there still sources around?

    Kim

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Huntersville, NC
    Posts
    169
    Anthony.


    Looked at your Kayak build photos from start to finish and enjoyed them very much. The finished kayak is beautiful and I especially liked the photos showing you actually paddling it in fairly rough water.
    Your construction is the first I’ve seen (being very new to this) using a center spine. This appears to be an excellent way to keep the molds in line.


    Your shop is very roomy which is a big help in constructing long kayaks. I would probably have to move outside and work under a canopy. In fact this is where I intend to sand my Wee Lassie canoe when I refinish it. Can’r wait wo try it out.


    Your strip joints look tight and I’m wondering why you switched from bead and cove to hand planed joints.


    Which brings up more questions - do lap joins show in the finished kayak,? could one use short strips with 3 or 4 lap joints per strip?, where is the best place to have a lap joint - at or in between molds.
    I have a finger joint cutter for my router and am wondering if 3/4” boards could be fimger-jointed and glued together to increase their length and then cut into 1/4” x 3/4” strips which could then be used on the kayak. Would such joints be too weak? ‘Would they show up in the finished kayak? Or both?


    Enough for now but will probably have more questions later.


  8. #8
    From all the reading I've done on the subject, butt joints are perfectly acceptable, As long as the joint is tight, it's really not going to show. Where the joint is located also doesn't matter that much, as long as you can hold it in place until the glue dries. The strips on either side of the joint will support it.
    Remember that all the strength of the kayak comes from the fiberglass/epoxy skins inside and out. The wood core does very little for overall strength.

    There's a good forum at Blue Heron Kayaks with a lot of great info. Also a really cool (and free) program to design your own kayak.
    Gerry

    JointCAM

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Huntersville, NC
    Posts
    169
    Gerry,

    Thank you for your information



    When you say "butt joints" are you including "finger joints" ? Finger joints should be stronger than butt joints and should be OK to use - but I don't know. Lap joints would be better , I think, but finger joints would provide more long grain glueing surface than butt joints. My concern is "would finger joints be acceptable ". Short boards could be finger jointed together. thereby making longer strips before cutting them to 1/4" thickness. From your reply, it appears as though they should be acceptable.


    And I suppose if the finger joints are well matched, they would not show after sanding. Again having no experience with this, I am not sure.


    I understand that fiberglass provides most of the strength but when the strips are bent to fit the molds will tje finger joints fail - leaving a high spot on the outside of the hull. That is another concern 0f mine


    I'm trying to collect as much information from experienced kayak builders before I begin construction of my own kayak.
    I will be making enough mistakes of my own.


    Thank you for this information and especially that concerning the Blue Huron Kayak forum. I will certainly look into that.


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Johnson City, TN
    Posts
    665
    Don

    I have built two over the years. Both from kits and were the stich and glue type. One kit came from Chesapeake Light Craft and the other from Pigmy boats. Both were fairly easy to build and took about 80 hours each. These are large 17' ocean kayaks great for lakes, big slow rivers and the ocean. I also have plastic boats and the wood boats are lighter and faster.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Sparky Paessler

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Huntersville, NC
    Posts
    169
    Sparky


    Both look great. You did an excellent job on each.


    I am waiting for better weather to try out my "Wee Lassie.
    First, I want to refinish it to ensure that there are no places for water
    to reach the wood strips. That will involve sanding it and then giving it
    at least two coats of spar varnish. I plan to do this outside under a
    tarp-covered aluminum frame.



    However, the yellow pollen is covering everything outside
    and yesterday it was very windy. After those conditions are over,
    I should be able to begin the refinishing process.



    I am also making a laminated wooden double paddle
    which will need a few coats of varnish before touching water.



    Thank you for the photo of your two “stitch & Glue” kayaks
    and their Kit sources. If I can Manage ny small kayak, I may
    consider making one also.


    Don
    Last edited by Don Rogers; 04-10-2016 at 8:52 AM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Huntersville, NC
    Posts
    169
    Roderick,

    Thank you for all that excellent information.

    Mu current situation , this has been explained in my last post. and my largest concern is being able to sit in the “kayak position” for long periods of time. I am working on this. Weather permitting, I should be able to give it a try in my son’s new Plastic-type sit-in kayak . before the “Wee Lassie” is refinished.

    You have given me much to think about as well as Kayak Plan and kit sources. I have been dealing with LV the last few years and will take a look at their plans. Who knows, I nay be satisfied with ny 11-1/2: Wee Lassie.

    Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience. You have been very helpful.

    Don
    Last edited by Don Rogers; 04-10-2016 at 9:50 AM.

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