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#1
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Honing guides
I have been looking for chisel and iron sharpening systems. Is the Veritas Mk II that much better than the "Sharpening System"?
And...are there any other brands out there that compare to these? |
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#2
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I just bought the Mk.II My decision was based on the difference in the jigs to set the blade. I also had a 10% off coupon to Woodcraft that helped narrow the price gap however.
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#3
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I like the Mk. II a lot. Easy to use and solidly built. You really can't go wrong with it.
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#4
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The Mk I doesn't work worth a damn if you don't install the leather pad (DAMHIKT). The Mk II is very straightforward but I find the grit from my 220 waterstone tends to get trapped behind the eccentric roller, and generally I don't use the thing enough. I ought to more, and it is magical on shoulder planes, but more frequently I just do it by hand.
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#5
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I have the standard side clamping jig using a small board with stops but the Mk II is on my list. The system I have works well enough, but the Mk II jig sure looks foolproof and seems a whole lot more versitle than the side jig. This is a thread I intend to keep an eye on.
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#6
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Hi Harold
There is no such thing as the "perfect" honing guide. Every design has to accept compromises and limitations. Some swear by side clamping designs such as the Eclipse or the Kell (various types available). And others prefer the down-clamped designs, such as Veritas. That said, the Veritas Mk II is the best and most flexible design available at this time. In addition to the basic honing guide, the Veritas Mk II also has accessories for skew blades and camber honing. I prefer to freehand when I can, yet I own and use several different honing guides (Veritas, Eclipse, Kell, Sharp Skate) as there are times when each is invaluable. As a complete package, the Veritas stands head-and-shoulders above the rest. Regards from Perth Derek |
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#7
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I have the MKII and have one problem. On a couple of chisels I got carried away and polished the backs to mirror finish. Now the MKII has a hard time holding them square as I sharpen the bevel; they are just too slippery.
James |
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#8
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I do have a few honing guides but alwais go back to the MKII! It work realy well! One thing you have to be careful, is when using the camber roller, go easy on it because you will put hell of a camber on you iron! for light camber, I just use the regular roller and use some finger pressure on each side of the balde and it work great!
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#9
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A tric here, double sided tape on the jig jaw, it work great also for realy narrow chisels!
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#10
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I think for narrow chisels, side clamping guide has better grip and stability. For everything else, MKII works great.
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#11
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I've been using a Mk II for a couple of weeks. I've had mixed success sharpening a few plane irons. After taking precautions to insert the blades square to the alignment guide and properly tightening the screws, the blade edges don't lie flat on a granite surface plate. When I go to wet/dry and waterstones, the bevel wears unevenly and I have to check frequently and correct it. Cambering is a crapshoot. I don't want to invest in the camber roller when I'm uncertain about the rest of the undeniably nice looking tool. I'm looking at myself for bad technique for now but am starting to wonder if I got a bad unit. Unfortunately, I lost the receipt so a return or exchange is not likely.
Last edited by Ravi Narasimhan; 11-07-2009 at 4:04 AM. |
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#12
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the blade edges don't lie flat on a granite surface plate.
Hi Ravi Here's what I want you to try ... Inset and set up this blade again. Set the gauge+blade down on the granite surface plate as if you were going to hone the blade on this surface. Now adjust the blade with the hold down screws by tightening/loosening one or other side until the blade is flush with the surface of the plate. Can you do this? If you cannot, then return the honing guide. Lee Valley will not make a fuss. They have the best customer service in the world. No lie. If you can do this, that is, get the blade flush, then you have learned a lesson in tuning and using the MkII. It never ceases to amaze me that so many expect a honing guide to work straight away. A honing guide simply replaces your hand. It does not (should not) replace your brain. Always hone a few strokes after set up, then check the scratch pattern, and adjust the side pressure until it is honing the way you want. This is no different to what you would do if honing freehand. Regards from Perth Derek Last edited by Derek Cohen; 11-07-2009 at 5:55 AM. |
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#13
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Did you buy a used MKII? If it was, roller might be worn and tilting on one side. I have one worn roller I subsequently replaced. Grit ate away inside of the roller over time (where shaft runs through). I replaced it with a new one a few months ago and it's all cool now.
If it's new, have it replaced. That's not the way it should be. Last edited by Sam Takeuchi; 11-07-2009 at 5:19 AM. |
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#14
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Quote:
In all likelihood, Lee Valley would still exchange the unit if you would explain your issue. . |
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#15
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I personally like the side clamping guides over the older style Veritas guide (in fact the older style ones are my least favorite honing guide!). I'm starting to warm up to the MKII, though. I don't like that I have to use the jig in order to ensure the iron's square. With the side clamping guides, it's automatically square.
I also do a lot of small carving plane irons, with a LOT of camber. The side clamping guide with the thin roller is better suited to these kinds of things. Fortunately, the side clamping guide is cheap...$15, I think. I would personally buy a MKII and the side clamping guide, and figure it all out later. I would NOT buy the standard Veritas guide...I don't think the original one is thought out very well at all. |
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