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Thread: Dust collection - would you go 4" or 6" in this setup?

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  1. #1
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    Blastgate Company is a good source. If the runs are all short you might be ok with 6" plastic, but with that blower, a big 6" network might not perform well. My G700 kicks hiney and while the frst 20' or so is 6", the entire rest of the network is 5" and the performance is really good
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 11-22-2023 at 7:52 PM.
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    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Blastgate Company is a good source. If the runs are all short you might be ok with 6" plastic, but with that blower, a big 6" network might not perform well. My G700 kicks hiney and while the frst 20' or so is 6", the entire rest of the network is 5" and the performance is really good
    One of the perks of having a small shop - less needed

    I think I'll go with 5" - from what I can tell the 6" plastic connectors are significantly more expensive than the 4" ones and so the price point becomes closer.

    Now I just have to figure out how much to get if I get from Blastgate company. All these things together are going to be a lot more $ than I anticipated though, pretty much regardless of what size I choose between 5" and 6" -- the only real cost effective option seems to be 4" but I think my total is still going to be not super long. Unless instead of making the run to my jointer just across the floor I make it go up and over the garage ceiling hah.

  3. #3
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    I read somewhere that two 45's inline are more restriction then one 90 semi sweep elbow. This is due to longer length and more bumps inside due to multiple joints. Not sure if I believe it or not.
    Bill D

  4. #4
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    The key to the duct size is keeping the air velocity above 3500 Feet per minute. Velocities below will let sawdust drop out and you will have build up in the ducting. We target 5000 - 5500 FPM in our systems at the saw mill to prevent build up. If the velocity is too high, the pressure drop gets to high and reduces the total CFM. Best to size the duct for the air speed.
    Thank you,

    Rich Aldrich

    65 miles SE of Steve Schlumpf.

    "To a pessimist, the glass is half empty; to an optimist, the glass is half full; to an engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be." Unknown author



  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Aldrich View Post
    The key to the duct size is keeping the air velocity above 3500 Feet per minute. Velocities below will let sawdust drop out and you will have build up in the ducting. We target 5000 - 5500 FPM in our systems at the saw mill to prevent build up. If the velocity is too high, the pressure drop gets to high and reduces the total CFM. Best to size the duct for the air speed.
    ^^ This ^^
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  6. #6
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    you can buy 5" 30 gauge pipe at Menards, adjustable ells, etc. wye's appear to be cheapest at amazon. I would check with local furnace supply house for all fittings and pipe
    30 gauge will work fine with your dust collector, it doesn't have enough suction to collapse the pipe.
    Ron

  7. #7
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    I would stay with the 4". I do not think any potential improvements by using 5" justify the cost.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    I read somewhere that two 45's inline are more restriction then one 90 semi sweep elbow. This is due to longer length and more bumps inside due to multiple joints. Not sure if I believe it or not.
    Bill D
    A long sweep is optimal. The price versus the benefit tipped me to a pair of 45's. Dust collection for home shop folks is a series of compromises. Spend on the big winners and save on the small stuff. Just watch that you don't have enough small stuff to equal a big impact item .

    To the OP; For what metal ducting costs (it's not really the pipe, it's the fittings, suspension system, and snap collars that add up) I would hesitate to spend a lot on your current system. I would add up what the "next band aid" is going to cost and compare it to a purpose built cyclone system. It won't be a push by any means but I would want to know how much more money I am throwing at a system I already don't like before I took the step. Not trying to be brutal, just trying to help.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    A long sweep is optimal. The price versus the benefit tipped me to a pair of 45's. Dust collection for home shop folks is a series of compromises. Spend on the big winners and save on the small stuff. Just watch that you don't have enough small stuff to equal a big impact item .

    To the OP; For what metal ducting costs (it's not really the pipe, it's the fittings, suspension system, and snap collars that add up) I would hesitate to spend a lot on your current system. I would add up what the "next band aid" is going to cost and compare it to a purpose built cyclone system. It won't be a push by any means but I would want to know how much more money I am throwing at a system I already don't like before I took the step. Not trying to be brutal, just trying to help.
    Honestly my existing setup works... surprisingly ok right now. I'm shocked how well it works given how hacky it is. But I do have to change things given where I moved tools. Which has me considering doing it right, or at least, less bad

    And yeah, pricing out a relatively small 5" system is starting to get to be quite a few hundred dollars.... I'm not sure if I should just do 4" and call it good enough (-:

    What do you mean by "purpose built cyclone" system?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alden Peterson View Post
    Honestly my existing setup works... surprisingly ok right now. I'm shocked how well it works given how hacky it is. But I do have to change things given where I moved tools. Which has me considering doing it right, or at least, less bad

    And yeah, pricing out a relatively small 5" system is starting to get to be quite a few hundred dollars.... I'm not sure if I should just do 4" and call it good enough (-:

    What do you mean by "purpose built cyclone" system?
    I misunderstood. I thought you disliked the performance . . . my bad . A re-build / retrofit could probably be done for much less that new .

    By "purpose built" I mean a system designed to expect the hit on airflow introduced by the cyclone. The horsepower, fan size, fan curve, etc. are all built expecting a certain set of operational parameters. When we put a separator ahead of or behind the blower we change that and there is not really a way to "adjust" the blower's design.

    That being said, I started with a Shop Vac and a 5 gallon bucket separator. Upgraded to a 4" bagger, added a separator. Upgraded to a cyclone with a 6" main and 4" drops and am now at a 6" main with 6" drops on all but a couple of machines. So, I have a good range of experience as far as a home shop, weekend warrior goes. That doesn't make me right . Dust collection is, like our shops, a journey .

    I will say that moving from a 4" port to a 6" on things like the tablesaw and jointer improved things substantially. I am really milking my 2HP cyclone for all it's worth. Although I built out the area in anticipation of upgrading to a 5HP cyclone the 2HP is doing a decent job so I am holding off on that expense . . . At my age you really start to think about whether things will last for at least 10 years. After that I probably won't care much
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

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