Hammer B3 information

[Kent A Bathurst]

Rod - If I may pry - how much $$$ is invested in that list?

[Ed Weiser]

I have had a B3 Comfort with the 78" slider for a couple of years. While I do few cabinets (and therefore sheet goods) I don't regret the purchase at all. I also purchased Airtight pneumatic hold down clamps from Mac Campshure which are worth every penny. They keep your hands COMPLETELY away from the blade and give you better cuts. Highly recommended. While the Hammer is lighter duty than the Felder line, the B3 (or K3) is at least as beefy as any non-slider I have seen or worked with. You will not regret the purchase.
Also, check out the Felder catalog on line. On the pages for the Hammer saws the footprint and space required for the function of the slider appears.

[Chris Parks]

I have a K3 without the outrigger. I added a Wixey DRO to the rip fence which combined with the fine fence adjuster is awesome, get it close and wind the fine adjuster, no tapping or hitting. I then saw the Fritz and Franz video and wanted to use the method so I bought all the parts to move the cross cut fence to the front of the slider and that is the best thing I ever did and I can now reach the on/off switch without crawling under the table. I left the stops etc for the rear fence position in place in case I needed to put it there for some reason. Has anyone come up with an idea to place a switch on the end of the table?

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a K3 without the outrigger. I added a Wixey DRO to the rip fence which combined with the fine fence adjuster is awesome, get it close and wind the fine adjuster, no tapping or hitting. I then saw the Fritz and Franz video and wanted to use the method so I bought all the parts to move the cross cut fence to the front of the slider and that is the best thing I ever did and I can now reach the on/off switch without crawling under the table. I left the stops etc for the rear fence position in place in case I needed to put it there for some reason. Has anyone come up with an idea to place a switch on the end of the table?

Hi Chris, I'm in the process of added a start button in a plastic enclosure so I can access it when using the shaper. or stick it on the slider.

Obviously it has a cord that connects to the saw cabinet.................Rod.

[Rod Sheridan]

Kent, it's not prying at all.

I am away on business so I don't know if I can respond until the weekend..........Rod.

[David Kumm]

DSC04290.jpgDSC04298.jpg Most of the parts can be found at ebay or Mcmaster Carr. Coiled cord and in my case a fitting so the cord can be unplugged if the switch needs to be worked on. I wouldn't bother with that and just hard wire it if doing it over. I did mill a piece of 2" square AL to hang on the slider and lock with a threaded knob so it can be moved. Starts both the main blade and scorer. If they operate separately you would want a three button control station. Dave

[Fedde Vennix]

I have a K3 without the outrigger. I added a Wixey DRO to the rip fence which combined with the fine fence adjuster is awesome, get it close and wind the fine adjuster, no tapping or hitting. I then saw the Fritz and Franz video and wanted to use the method so I bought all the parts to move the cross cut fence to the front of the slider and that is the best thing I ever did and I can now reach the on/off switch without crawling under the table. I left the stops etc for the rear fence position in place in case I needed to put it there for some reason. Has anyone come up with an idea to place a switch on the end of the table?

Hello there Chris,
sorry for digging this old thread up and by a not seen here before member ...
But my K3 will arrive next month (all this reading about this slider is costing me quite a bit :-)
and it will come without the outrigger, I don think I will need it that much and my space is not that big. So now I read you placed the cross cut fence at the other end, do you have any pictures? And maybe you could find the numbers of the stops etc. you ordered.
Cause when I asked the salesman, he just gave me a funny look and then hesitatingly said "Yeah, I suppose that could be done..."
Thanks!

(excuse me for my English, I'm Dutch)

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Fedde

As it happens, I have been considering this as well. I have a new K3 with a 49" slider, and have been struggling to set up a Franz and Fritz jig. Then it occurred to me that everyone else has theirs resting against the crosscut fence at the far end of the slider, and mine is the other way around (in other words, nothing to hold the F&F). It makes more sense to reverse the set up I have.

I was not aware that Chris had done this, and spoke with him about the possibility. He then sent me photos of his set up. Hopefully, he will read your post.

Just to let you know that you are not crazy

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Joel Wesseling]

I have a K3WC. I couldnt live without the outrigger and its easy to remove. Previously owned a vintage SCM slididing tables saw with outrigger and used it frequently and I was certain I had to have one on the new saw. In the Felder showroom the K3 had the 2 crosscut fences installed, one at each end. The rep said it was simply to show it this way, and that its not a necessary setup. He talked me out of purchasing a second fence. He was right. Im purchasing an F3 Shaper and looking at adding the outrigger. It tucks away neatly(like K3) when not needed but always available when the need arises.
I have 2 Bessey table hold down clamps and I made 2 T-nuts to fit into the groove in the sliding table

[Chris Parks]

My apologies for the delay, here are the pics I sent to Derek C. showing the CC fence on the front of the saw. I bought the same stops from Hammer as are on the operator end of the table because I did not want to have to fuss around squaring the fence if I changed it back to the original position but in the end I never did so it was a waste of a small amount of money. Now I have the outrigger the idea has become redundant though I do have two CC fences as the outrigger comes with one as well. If you buy the saw with the outrigger you only get one CC fence.


Fence Mounted On the Front of the Table.JPGFence on the Front of the Table 2.jpg

[Chris Parks]

I have a K3WC. I couldn't live without the outrigger and its easy to remove.

Joel, what do you see as the advantage of removing the outrigger as the crosscut fence is still the same width or wider. On my saw the table is too short to have two CC fences.

[Fedde Vennix]

Hi Derek,

I came across your postings on woodworkforums :-)

Thanks for answering!
I like having the crosscut fence at the front end, when crosscutting it's easier to get a piece of scrap and protect the back of the crosscut.
And the F & F jig is one of the things I'm hoping to enjoy.... almost, just one more month of waiting...

Thanks for the confirmation of my mental state :-D

Regards,
Fedde.

Hi Fedde

As it happens, I have been considering this as well. I have a new K3 with a 49" slider, and have been struggling to set up a Franz and Fritz jig. Then it occurred to me that everyone else has theirs resting against the crosscut fence at the far end of the slider, and mine is the other way around (in other words, nothing to hold the F&F). It makes more sense to reverse the set up I have.

I was not aware that Chris had done this, and spoke with him about the possibility. He then sent me photos of his set up. Hopefully, he will read your post.

Just to let you know that you are not crazy

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Fedde Vennix]

Hi Chris,

thanks for the photos, this is exactly what I would want on my new to come K3!
Now I can show my salesman what I'm trying to do. Will I be able to use the same fence (without to much hassle) on both ends?

Thanks,
Fedde

[Rod Sheridan]

Joel, what do you see as the advantage of removing the outrigger as the crosscut fence is still the same width or wider. On my saw the table is too short to have two CC fences.

I'm not Joel, however I also remove the crosscut fence when not in use as I have a small shop and it's a hazard.

I also normally have the outrigger removed and hanging on the wall.

When I need them they pop back on and I have the capacity I need without the waste of space...............Regards, Rod.

P.S. I have the shorter fence to use without the outrigger, and the longer fence for the outrigger.

[Chris Parks]

Rod, I hadn't thought about the shorter fence and no outrigger so I see your point in a small workshop which fortunately mine is not. If the outrigger is removed and the longer fence is all you have I don't see the point. The question then arises, if you use an F&F jig how do you manage without the fence on the out feed end of the sliding table.