Do I have a problem????

[Tom Stewart]

I just made a memorial box for a beloved pet that passed and might be having issues with the finish...Here are the details.

Box is made of 4/4 bloodwood planed down to just over 3/4. Base of box is has a piece of ebony trim shaped with a roman ogee bit.

I put the first coat of Hornby's Tung Oil finish on Saturday around noon and it is still tacky in a few spots this morning.

I am in a hot, humid area in the suburbs of Houston, TX....I did move the piece into my house Saturday night in an effort to control the humidity and let it dry faster.

Exact directions were followed for application....brush on with natural brush, rub in with t-shirt and wait 24 hours.....

Thanks for your replies,
Tom

[Heather Thompson]

Tom,

First I would like to say that I feel the pain of your loss, next welcome to the Creek. I have never worked with bloodwood to this date, so I can give no real input, there are many on this site that have. It may be to your benefit to post this question in the turners forum and use the search feature.

Heather

[Ryan Sparreboom]

I'm not familiar with Hornby's tung oil, and a quick search of the net didn't come up with much. If it is 100% pure tung oil, it can take a week or more to cure fully. If it's just a "tung oil" finish (basically a wipe on varnish) then the humidity may be your problem. Try keeping it in a air conditioned area for a few days.
I'm by no means an expert and have only done 1 project with real tung oil and a few more with the "tung oil" varnish. I found that it depends on how thick you lay it on too. As an oil finish, it should be put on very thin and numerous coats done. I would never use a brush, only a rag to wipe it on thin.

[Tom Keen]

Im not sure why it is tacky, but Ive had similar problems when Ive applied a to much finish. Use some mineral spirits and clean the piece. Let it dry. See what you have and decide if you want to put another coat on. If so, coat the piece heavily and take a coffee break. When you come back, wipe off any excess with a dry towel..and I mean really wipe it. You want the finish in the wood, not on the surface. lightly sand with 600-1000 gr sandpaper between coats. When the wood no longer absorbs any finish you can put a very light coat on as the top/finish coat. Buff it out and put some wax on it if you wish.

Hope this helps.
Tom

[Steve Schoene]

I presume you mean Formby's Tung Oil Finish. The operative word in the name is Finish, since it is a varnish. Consequently it has no oil, though oil was used as a raw ingredient. Let us know if it isn't Formby's.

Be that as it may, it's probably not the reason for slow curing. I suspect that Bloodwood falls into that class of oily hardwoods whose oils inhibit the curing of oil and varnish finishes. (And also creates adhesion problems with waterborne finishes.)

I would strip the finish that isn't drying. (It may come off with mineral spirits.) Then when down to bare wood again, I would use a couple of coats of shellac. You can then shift to a varnish if you want. To be safe, I would test the Formby's varnish on a safe domestic hardwood--maple or oak or cherry. It is also possible that the finish is defective.

[Matt Hutchinson]

I remember in high school I made my mom a Christmas gift: a cutting board. It was striped, a glue up of maple, cherry, walnut, and padauk. I finished it with a food safe finish. Guess what? Everything dried properly except the strips of padauk. They stayed tacky for days. Eventually they dried, but it took forever. The oils were the culprit. I am guessing this is what's happening with your piece.

Hutch

[robert hainstock]

The last thing you need is complications from finishing incidents.
I use a wipe with acetone on the oily woods to calm the beast as it were before applying finish. Good luck!
Bob

[Tom Stewart]

It is the Formby's Tung Oil Finish..... My brain has not worked correctly since last Wedneday at 8:45am.....

I will wipe down, let dry and start with possibly a better choice in finishes....

What would be the absolute best finish for this piece....All opinions are welcomed as I am a novice at finishes other than stain and seal with spar varnish.....

Thanks again for your input.
Tom

[Scott Holmes]

Formby's Tung Oil finish is an alkyd resin/soya oil wiping varnish. The only "tung oil" is on the label. Marketing #%*%!@^ !!!!!

Removing the varnish and sealing it with a light coat of shellac will be the easist cure.

You mentioned spar varnish... it's for exterior only.. You're not putting this bloodwood/ebony item outside are you?

Scott

[Tom Stewart]

Do I need to completely remove the Fornby's?

Can I remove the tacky material, let dry, sand and then apply the schlac?

[Scott Holmes]

I would get all the FORMBY's off the project.