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Thread: Routing a Picture frame profile

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Routing a Picture frame profile

    Making a small picture frame from walnut, square with mitered corners.
    Should I assemble the frame and then route the profile or route the piece of walnut first, (profile and rabbet), then cut /miter it to length and assemble it?
    I've watched people do it both ways.
    "What you see and what you hear depends a great deal on where you are standing.
    It also depends on what sort of person you are.”

  2. #2
    I would say first, I cut the rabbit for the picture and glass and route the edge at the same time. I used to make so many frames I would do a run with all the sawing and routing and then keep it on the shelf and cut to size as needed. Worked fine, as would the other way.

  3. #3
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    Route the stock first. If you make the frame first, there's a really good chance you'll blow out the end of one of the tips of the miters at the corners, and then all your hard work is for naught.

    John

  4. #4
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    Roger dodger... Route first, then cut.
    Thank you, Darrell and John.
    "What you see and what you hear depends a great deal on where you are standing.
    It also depends on what sort of person you are.”

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    I usually do rebate, sand, route, miter, assembly. IMHO people forget the sanding part often and a lot of built frames look amateurish when assembled. Personally I prefer routing last as I can do my final sanding/refinement when assembled and I feel it looks the cleanest, but you do need to be careful of the type of wood you're using and protect against cross-grain tearout. Not difficult to do, but John makes a good point. Don't use cheap or dull router bits!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Burnside View Post
    I usually do rebate, sand, route, miter, assembly. IMHO people forget the sanding part often and a lot of built frames look amateurish when assembled. Personally I prefer routing last as I can do my final sanding/refinement when assembled and I feel it looks the cleanest, but you do need to be careful of the type of wood you're using and protect against cross-grain tearout. Not difficult to do, but John makes a good point. Don't use cheap or dull router bits!
    I don't do cheap bits... 99% are Whiteside with a few Freuds thrown in for color .
    But some could use sharpening....will have to get on that.
    "What you see and what you hear depends a great deal on where you are standing.
    It also depends on what sort of person you are.”

  7. #7
    I don't get blow out as I climb cut but its hand held so you have control, your thing doesnt lend itself to that sure you are using a router table. Shaper high speed steel or insert head has an advantage over a small radius router bit with carbide that is not as sharp as insert or HHS. Do your sanding last after all machining is done.
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 05-10-2024 at 6:00 PM.

  8. #8
    If you assemble the frame first, any inside profile will be rounded at the corners- a lesser look by most standards.

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