Well it seems that the tapered part of the handle and the inside of the socket may be way too smooth. So I guess I'll try some 220 and some hairspray? Its one in particular that is a problem. But its the 1/2", and that's the one that gets used all the time. I just see myself holding the handle as the blade bounces across the concrete shop floor...
There may be a different machining process used today than there was when you guys who bought 10 or 20 years ago.
As Jim pointed out in detail, a smooth fit is great for a metal to metal morse taper, not so good when one of the materials can change size with the weather.
Older socket chisels were not always even throughout with varying wall thickness, since many were formed, not machined.
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All the imperfections helped hold the handle in place.
A spot of adhesive isn't sacrilege if it makes the tool usable.
I made replacement handles for my LN chisels from cocobolo which is an oily wood. Had some problems with the handles staying in the sockets so I used epoxy. When I had to remove one handle, I heated the socket and the handle came out easily. I only had to get the socket fairly warm, not really hot.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Wring the handle into the socket, and then inspect the pattern left on the wood. Are there any burrs on the socket? Incomplete contact? I would check the one causing trouble. Find/fix the burr, then sand/chisel off the wear spots on the wood a touch at a time until you get pretty uniform contact. 60-70% is great. Often, you start with hard contact in 1-spot and none anywhere else.