Maybe I missed it, has the OP actually confirmed what exact saw is in question other than to say "A Rigid jobsite saw"? If not, everything posted is idle speculation at best.
Maybe I missed it, has the OP actually confirmed what exact saw is in question other than to say "A Rigid jobsite saw"? If not, everything posted is idle speculation at best.
Brian, can you elaborate on your suggestion?
Like an example of s rotary disconnect, where you have it mounted, etc.
Pics will help.
I have an older Dewalt jobsite saw (7480) that has the non magnetic paddle switch, but I'd still like to add some safety redundancy.
Also whatever you can explain and show pics of, I'm sure will help Diane.
"What you see and what you hear depends a great deal on where you are standing.
It also depends on what sort of person you are.”
I usually build out an electrical box on every machine unless they already have one. I’ve attached a few examples, the brands I have used are Siemens and Eaton Moeller. They’re either round or they have a toggle that rotates.
I will typically also put e-stops in one or multiple locations on a machine depending on where I usually work from. If one were to have a situation in which you’re pulled into the feed of a machine it’s good to have immediate access to an e-stop so that you can increase your chance of survival.
While we’re on that subject, all three locations I commonly work in are stocked with a CAT tourniquet in addition to a basic first aide kit.
IMG_1963.jpg
IMG_1502.jpgIMG_1354.jpgIMG_9188.jpg
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
You’re welcome! That’s a modified auto tapping machine that I use as a drill press. The manufacturer is Kira (Japan), it was likely made in the 80’s but they still produce them.
I bought and modified it because I got a great deal on it and I love Japanese machines. It’s one of the heaviest and most precisely made presses of that stature that I have seen.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
very nice. I prefer the rotaries that allow for lockout/tagout, but that's a habit. Now I'm going to probably end up adding disconnects at my stationary tools. Thanks Brian for the reminder!
To me, this is like ensuring that a chamber is empty.
~mike
happy in my mud hut
To meet code the school shop added a contactor to the work bench power supply. Used for small drills grinders etc. Turn on in the morning. turn off at the end of the day. If the power drops for a second or so it disconnects and all power tools are dead until the benches main power switch GO button is pressed.
Bill D.
Brian
Electrical devices aside, you have some nice work going on there!!
I don't know what you're making, but I'd really to see it when it's done. It looks exacting.
For the OP though.
If you have simple ON/OFF, magnetic switch, it should not be humming.
My shaper hums when not in use because there is an interposing relay and contractor in the power box. Delta made their shapers to run on 3 phase power, and that same box is on all of the machines of my vintage, even though, I have two pole, single phase 240 going to it only.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Thanks, Mike!
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Hello All, just an update. Ridgid did get back to me and asked me to destroy the saw and they are sending me a new saw. I have to say, it was the right thing to do....but I am still impressed, considering how many companies do not back their products these days.
That is impressive these days and also a good solution rather than the try this part, try that part method. Glad you had a decent and safe(!) outcome for the problem.
Good for you!
Good for you. I go one step further and unplug. Controlling hazardous energy means to physically incapacitate the tool. I.E. a crush proof block under a hydraulic press after removing the tool from its power source. That’s why we stick a block under a jacked up car. If the Jack fails, the block will physically stop the car from crushing you. I wish more people would take these precautions.
I definitely wouldn’t use the saw until the issue was figured out and solidly fixed.
Good that they are willing to replace the defective machine, not so good that they don't want you to return the saw at their expense so they can figure out what went wrong and prevent it from happening again.